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PAGE 4, APRIL 1976, BRPUWER'SSPRING GARDENING All ;r roses have been grown in this area so that any ,riety we sell will survive here if given the proper care. We take the extra precaution for our customers by pruning the roots and branches, and planting each rose in its own pot. In this way the rose starts to leaf and bloom. While your rose bush is in our care we also feed them and protect them from insects and fungus. Hybrid Tea Hybrid Tea roses bloom several times in one year and often repeat their first great show of June and July in September (see pruning care). They tend to be a bit temperamental, insisting that they be alone and planted in rich, well drained beds (see plant- ing). However, despite this, they have been a fav- orite flower for years and are used extensively as cut flowers and in floral arrangements, producing one large bloom on each stem. Florabundas Floribunda bushes tend to grow slightly higher than the H.T. and are less temperamental. They usually feature one main bloom with more buds opening a little later to form clusters - maintaining colour throughout the season. Grandiflora Grandiflora bushes may resemble the H.T. or the Fl. - some having a single bloom while others have clusters. In height and temperament they are like the Floribundas. ROSES UP-START, which has a rooting hormone mixed with a higjh phosphorusi fertilizor, or any fortilizer suitable for roses and thon continue to backfill with soil b) water well to a depth of 12" and back fill with soil mixture, packing it firmly around the rose bush - and now add a granular fertilizer (with or without added chemicals* for weeds, insects, ants and grubs) mixing it into the top 3" of soil and then water again. (*see Insect and Fungus Protection) Cut off the bottom of pot Cut from top to bottom on opposite side and remove the two halves It is generally safe to say that Hybrid Tea, Flori- bunda and Grandiflora bushes can be planted 18" - 24" apart, whereas climbers should have 60" - 72" space if planted in rows. Along a garage wall it would be possible to mix bush roses with climbers. We do not suggest too much pruning in Fall - the extra hardened growth protects your rose bush However, "heaten" your roses by taking out deac leaves etc. Feeding Programme Roses need fertilizer to look good and to produce as many flowers as possible. You will notice ail rose food has a formula with more phosphorus than nitro- gen; because even though you want green leaves, above ail you want many flowers. As we mentioned in preparation of rose bed, rosés like cow manure - but they also need added food either as liquid or granula fertilizer. Begin this feeding after the buds or "eyes" have started to open and are over one inch long - and in the case of granular fertilizers with added chemicals such as insect control, wait until new buds are two inches long or two weeks after planting your new rose bush - and follow the instructions on their containers very carefully. Using only fertilizers, feed again after the first and second blooms, but not after the beginning of August as you want your roses to harden for win- ter. Bonemeal is an excellent organic food for roses - to be used only late Fall or very early Spring (even before any signs of new growth). The reason for this is that bonemeal is very slow acting - tak- ing several weeks for it to break down and release its food value. If used later than May its goodness will be acting in August and September and forcing new growth which is too tender for our hard winters. Climbers Climbing roses grow steadily each year, reaching a height of 6 to 9 feet. They require the support of wires or a rose trellis as they climb as they are not self attaching. Their blooms vary with the variety, from single flowers to large clusters. Standard or Tree Roses A tree rose (or standard) has been made by taking a rose bush and grafting it onto a 4 or 5 foot briar stem. They add height to a rose bed, mark an en- trance to a driveway, or enhance an evergreen plant- ing. When in full bloorn their appearance is breath taking. Hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses are used in tree roses. (See winter protdction - it is a must for tree roses). Preparation of Rose Bed U ~Ijv7 Pruning We prune your roses before planting them in pots, but next Spring you will need to know how to prune, here is a year round guide, spring to late Fall. H.T., Fl. and Gr. roses should be pruned in April, or when new buds or "eyes" appear, cutting back to about 6" - 8" from the bud union (graft) making sure there are at least 3, if not 4 or 5 buds, cutting above an outside bud. This prevents too much growth in the middle /t Pruning Roses Insect and Fungus Control There are so many products on the market that there is no excuse not to protect your rose bush. Preven- tion rather than cure is the plan to follow. There are fertilizers that have systematic insecticides in them - the plant takes up the systemic insecticides along with nutrients that are mixed with water and spray- ed onto the complete rose bush - in this way every part of your plant is now immune to attack of suck- ing and chewing insects. These are the best methods as neither ràin, watering nor winds affect them and they stay immune from 3-6 weeks. There are "puff" on powders that do quite a good job, but have to be repeated frequently after rain or winds - the effect lasting for about 7 days. Fungus control can be applied in a "puff" on way (a powder mixed with insect powder), or as a liquid mixed with an insect- icide, or as a systemic - a wettable powder, mixed with wate(rand sprayed on. A separate liquid fungi- cide is also available. Roses require at least 8 hours of sunlight per day, so care must be taken on the location of the rose bed or single spot for your rose bush. In advance of buying any plant, prepare the soil first. In our area we have heavy soils and clay so if the site is damp or soggy remove ail the earth to a depth of two feet and line the bottom of the excava- tion with gravel, cinders or a string of 4" tile leading to an outlet downslope. Refill with good topsoil and as roses are heavy feeders add cow manure (sold in bags on our garden centre). If you happen to have very sandy soil, mix in 20% - 30% peatmoss or other humus - this helps retain moisture and food particles in the root area. The top level of the bed should be raised about 4" above the lawn level. This helps poor drainage, the roses (or any plant) can be seen better and new soil sinks, so this will eliminate any further problem of a sunken bed. Planting Instructions Our roses are in rose pots - for your convenience and ours. You can be sure that the roses are grow- ing quite naturally and we can keep roses for sale throughout the season. 1) We water our roses frequently, but if you should buy one and the soli in the pot is dry - water it carefully several times letting it soak down to the bottom of the pot. Leave the bush for a few; hours - because if you plant a bush that is dry it will wilt badly 2) Prepare the hole. 3) Cut the bottom of the pot off. 4) Set the pot in the hole with the level of the soil in the pot exactly the same as the level of your flower bed. 5) Cut the pot from top to bottom on opposite sides and remove the two halves - pack 'A rds of prepared soil in around the undisturbed rose roots a) water well to a depth of 12" with liquid fertilizer mixed with the water, such as In Hfi. I. bushes 5 or 6 buds left will have smaller blooms, 3 or 4 buds left, longer stems and bigger blooms. A Fl. or Gr. can be cut back at 4, 5 or 6 buds, whichever is the outside bud or if you want your bushes to get higher - prune only to neateti taking out any dead branches and cut to reshape your rose bush. Climbers do not need much pruning back - if they get too tall however, cut back to desired height; and neaten ail climbers by removing any dead or very thin branches in early spring before or as buds are appearing. A healthy rose bush (given water, food, protec- tion from insects etc.) can produce flowers every 5 - 6 weeks. The first full bloom comes at late Spring - early Summer with the first hot weather. To speed new growth cut these flowers before they start to fade. Your rose bush now only has to work at the next set of leaves and blooms, and does not go into seed production yet. Cut the second blooms before they fade. Cut none at ail from the third bloom on, as a rose plant that retains its seed pods (hips) is a côld resistant plant. If possible, cut your rose stem above a 5 leaflet leaf stem, it is best if you can leave at least two such leaves on each side branch. if you do cut ail the blooms off then protect your roses very carefully for winter - see winter pro- tection. Here is how to cit flowers. If possible, cut right above a 5-leaflet teaf sten UIs best If you can leave at least 2 such leaves on each side brarich Winter Protection Hybrid Tea, floribundas, grandifloras and the base of climbers should be hilled up with soil eight to ten inches above ground level, just a few days before freeze up, mounding the soil carefully around the stem and branches, packing the soil firmly (loose soil does not protect). The use of rose collars, water resistant cardboard or plastic made into a circle and filled with soil are becoming very popular. After the ground has frozen solid the addition of dried leaves or straw will be useful. Climbing rose branches can be taken down and covered with evergreen boughs or left in place and covered with burlap (not plas- tic). Tree roses, however, must receive special care: one method is to loosen the roots from the soil and lay the entire tree on the ground covering the roots, stem and head with soil. Our suggestion is to have a special flower bed to "bury" your tree rose in each winter - this means that it must be possible to dig a hole one foot longer than the entire rose tree 2 or 22 feet wide x 21/4 feet deep. If your rose tree stands in the lawn you could then use part of a vegetable garden, or a flower bed where you always use annuals; you might have to create an extra bed particularly for this purpose. Once you have dug the hole lay your tree rose in making sure you support the "neck" and branches underneath with soil before packing the soil com- pletely over the tree. You could bury several tree roses in one such hole and even your bush roses if you wish - it is more work but the method is ai- most 100% successful in over wintering roses. The following Spring - after the frost is out of the ground and the excess water from ice and·snow has drained away - carefully dig out your roses and replant them. You might find that some of them have already started to "bud". You have now travelled full circle - and it might be necessary to prune your bushes. We are listing the rose varieties that we will have available for you this year - under types, with names and their colours: we will also have a rose chart at the Garden Centre including one picture of each rose to help you with yow choice. (See page 5)