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have but- aur week. woldcj maothen finter- two fi Me lat I ie-m trer. pritea in it! b er opinion o dIo with ne- tîme I can- ne respect for ta ha uniair t is shle ight forsake rmy Id I stand ou, Pke tbings iiu- '. 1 have ta many prab- r-th-wbilo, and e b-aving it wîfïe Yoau can nun ini elglarly, sbe en home for dînner n aend feel che is oi vour luep. If s Li guest tmore. do not jet -youn your ii e neelize UgÏard the situation, lv. neither of therr sile Ïn aei-rmuriec tict the hep- IOS es ou two have bcd tqù- 'gether shah nat be interruptod Sby' tic prpsenrce of a third persan.ý * Na mn, lhowever lbe loves *twa wamcin, cen bring them- *close oete if tbcy are te- *peram-erutLaily oppocd. Ee - *member this, and ho generousý. "Dean. Arune Hirst: Recently we learniedilat tic flrm I work- for wifl be disbanded in two inanths, whicbh meaus ail of us will be Otou f Mwork . . , I have beaun dating a a uIIgwomnani-anr aven a year and bcd intonded giving her an enga-gem-ent ring about D 0'w. "Wbien 1 told befai iis mis- fortune, she was 1moAt nong ing and said -ïit mn cdonodic- ence aý al, "I kno lticend ai the wonld Ihec not came, ari I intend ta get aiother position as soon as pas- sible. But have I tic nigiht ta tic à girl up tiac feilow wiho isn't wanlng? NDECIDEýD" I1 oudstake my opinion *witb h 0at aof your flancee, w hiich 1I hope cie is; b «y now. *You wl nat bhe w-itiout a job "long I am sure, and I think Stint girlI knows sic is lucky *ta) haVe tfic affc!ction ofi so h1- sou- wby Diu shold npetus ai Lure hep- au. Keep it cannot * ,, PH g0éONICLES An-d stili the we-ather makes thie news. Ramn, thutnderstormns, rain -nd stili more rain It really -ma-kes your heart ache to drive through the country and see field after field of spriug crop standing- in water, the heads akrpost certai-nly spr,.outinig and mnatted togcether. Our flats were flooddiland only a miracle lrept the bridge fromn floating away. Now the weather appears ta have clear- altho)u2h thuuderstorms a rl e foreca-,t again for tonight. We hope the weathermran is wrong --not only or the farmners' ac- counit bu t for the Exhibition too. This was the day vie should bave gone but we just couldn't face the tnpu with so mucli býumidity in the air. Sa we regretfliyl stayed at home. For m,ý it was flot too -great a hardship as 1 had had a wou-. derful outing over the wveek- end-iii outing ,that was most unexp2eted . . . a tnp ta thic Lake Huron district wbere 1 bad nerèr beenl befor-e. Somne montb ago frîenids aie our~s mentioned having been to Kincard~ine for the weekend. 'KXincardine," I excljaimed, "I have an aid school fnîeud in Kinca!dinie." B y comparing notes wve discovered that Ms E. actuaily kuew Nellie because she livedi almost exactly op- posite Mrs. E's Kincardine fiends. Although it was quite a coincidence 1 dîd not think antigmare about it until last week we Mrs. E. phaqned mne, said t1hey were going 40 Kincardine agýain an-d would 1 like ta go with themi. Would I? Teewas oil y one ausweiv ta that question. 1 had lookeCl at the place so often on tbe map and wishied I. couid tackie the 125 mile trip but 1 knew my eyes w,ýouldn't appreciate driv- iug that f ar. But with someo)ne else driiu-thiat was another story. We leit hetre about sevenr in the morning a ýnd got taKin-. cardine aibout ten, The weather P-retty Centerpiece 581 Elegant cuepoefor, your dlinin, aig1"A graceiul sa eroclieted uineappie d,-sign - f iii it with inuit or foes Ptterru 581: Crociet dircý- tions fan swn centorpiece; body about x6 inclios. Use hecavy jiffy cttan - ýturci tify Send TWENTY-FI1VE "CENTS { stamps cannot be acceptedc, use postal note for safcýty) for this patterru ta Laura Wneeler, 123 Eigteeniti St., New Toronto. ()nt-. Pint pliinlyý PATTERIN NUAIBER, youn NAME ind AD- DRESS. oi, ir lt ta you - Iwo woul- denful patteros for yaurtsei, yaur hQmc- - printed il Our Laura , hee ederi book1for 1956! Dolzene aiother iicw vdesjins tg ner-cro- chot. knittingr, brklry on- dans naeltes. ~eu 25ee ts fan vacopyv O lt book NOW - French Act To C! openings marked the renewvaI OZ fashiarn piracy, whichi - e-ver since the first mass advent f foreigni buyers after Worldî War I - has plagued the ýParis cou- turem The graivity of this problem was perfect,--actually! -and there was hardly any tafc tal We passed good farms and poor f arms; crops cut and crops stillf standing. One thing we noticedî particularly was the absence of weeds. Above Guelph it wvas oh- vious that few farms were belng sold for, sub-divisians, industrial sites or super-h.îghways as they are down here. It was hearteni- ing to know there are stili many acres in Ontario where fielda are pilbughed and crops sowni andi harvested. 0f course there are stili plenty of good farms in Halton county but they certainly are getting few-ver inf number al the timef-. Kincardine is a very niee- littie to,.Cleanl, tidly, good stores and a flne- residential1 area. And of course there is the lake and a wondcerful freshnegs in the air. 1 noticed this particiarly on the Moniday. Nelle and 1 walked. down town, Ieaving the kitchein stove alight. When we, got back the house was tfig Hatd it been -here the bouse woldn't have cooled off uintil night. Dut there, with the doors and windows thrown, open, the the house was fresh and cool in no fimie. It ,was wonderful, One thing,, ham-pered our act- ivities, nieithier Nellie nor -1 bad -a car to get around with so, we couldn't go any farther thian our two feet would take- us. One more instance of our derpendence u-pon tour -wheels to take us around., During the night i eveni toyed with the idea of hiring a car next morninlg but it didn't seem worthwhile as we were levuqbout one o'clock. My friendsbip with Nelle follows a ratheýr unusuail Pattern. We sat sideo by sïéde during our last year ýt schfool. We both married Canadiani service meni and wýýe both cajme Jt Canaida in 1919. For somye years we were out of touch with each other. And t1hen one day 1 was readifng the ,Homemakýer Page" in t 'he old "Globe". One le(tter xvas signed Little Motherý" and by tscontents I had a hunch it wvas wvritten) by mny frieud Nfie wvrote to "Little Mothr"-care of the Homàemaker and founid my hunch was right, We correspon- ded for several years but drap- ped it again duri ng the Denres- sion of the '30's-porobably b'i-e- cause we and our fam-illes, were bath going tinrough aý period thait xye did't -want, to write about. I wvon-der how mnuch otheri corespndece asdropped a-, round thaýt tîmec? Neither of us kniew what happenic edta te othe-r tintil wve met at a W. meeting in Gueili l]ast y«ear- no, 1I guezss it wsearly tis, year. Nellie bas inover been backe Io the Old Cointryv but sheý kýnew \ tt iat i ad asnmvisit wag mrenitiolied li ulabmetw parner ta) which shesili sub- cibS ,a shehafid ne"zs o. f me but 1 Itiîî had1(1no idea wha1t lind h a 1),Ita b 1rMlot til sh1e înQuired for, me in Gualh Alil ci'vhcis agodiusrt ion o the- '-eci~ifu er'e lca ppe, n a o-f Sh Wmn' nsitt a nxr 1o,, toiuch wîýihft-,W 1r" N~ve ~ider~s~ia1 o he owa .ratrJ1ivnyntb-.d-h-n lei nd, little understood on aur side of thc Atlantic. A col- league remnarked the other day: "It's tobcd tic French can't be mare realistic about bcing cois- icd." In ber view, the eriormausg preponderance naw a days of -Aïyericiin tashions imust have rendercd copying irisignîficant. But atually a greait number of stylles, which we think of~ as 100 per cent Americani desigie d, fret saw the light ini some Paris couture salon. A certain antount of co-pying, of course, ile legîti- mate: the right ta reproduce bas been paid for by the manufac- turer..- Copying however- causes consideraible finiancial las ci yNear -toa a arge nm-ber aorfu table Amenican firmes, as-,i as ta tic Frenchi aiginatars. This being tic. case, a short histany of style piracy and come w-ays ta combat it cfficaciouýsiy 4113Y proveusul Tic pastel modernistic 1murIais aif Madeleine Vionnct's salons on theý Avenuýe Montaignie-not fer tram flDiors pre-senIt premises- wecre in tie early 20's punictu- ated wl-h admouitory texts: "Tic work of art ie pensonel Prapecrty... To copy je ta steal a" nd otlierelun similar vein. M . Trouyvet, iinet's famaous and formidiable director, was a lea-der ai tic figit cgainst copy- iStS, and tie daily press was 0o11y aliowed ta view' a new Vionneýtî collection several wveeks citer thc first showin.- <when inciden- tly h w mas 1na use ta tlen-m> lest their cabies descnibe tc e Une 1t0a grapbically1. " showevcr, -was 1itercliy "c Ill te stable door cifter the horse bias beeu stalen." In those really bad aid days, pirates attende-d couture openlingt dis- guised as private clients or as- sistant bers, armed %witb a photagraphi è,,Pyc and scissars ta snîp a surtreptït aus samnple ifram an inattentive m riequin's dress under pretex.,t ofi amining itbe fabrïc. Pais was. studded wOith 1modi- crately pricedi dressmak~er and millinery shops in whase back rooms ance could get the latcst paris originels at a fraction af thc couturier's figure. They even borec couturier's awn "gniffe&' (tcclaw mark, as the specialiy woveu anct capyrigbited label Îis called), wbich capyist purveyors cauniterîfeited by thc yard. Buyers' arrivais at the variaus Paris hotels were isted in tic daily papers, aund thc lobbies wvere hauoted bY Younig men and womeu carrying bnifcases stuf- fed witi couture sketches and satt-pies.L TIhey waiked only fan a uad ta 'folow an uti-cnupulous prospective customner iîta some secluded carner w cdisplay ilicit As theiiitîme weut on, fashion bootieg gans ere orgcnized. Techniques were -perfected, il]- paid walkers on the coutunicrý'S a1wn staff were sîtbornied. Thene was just ane period wheni the Paris designers could, and did, crack down effegtively an the style thieves Tint vas diuring cWanld War Il w nthle Paris couture came un1der miii- teizy conitrai. As ane afithe Ii-,uuy indlus- triesý, the dress buisiness was subject ta reguilations for coni- senving the nationial resources, the dvso being hoaded by a regiar armry -major. And an another front ie designïers wýere potected by t he f am ed' "'Deuxieme'BuLireau" (nare French equivalent ta the FBI.) The bureau maoved lu becauise many aio the fashion pirates. wbha 1id geined a marte on less Solid footingý in the Paris pic- ture, were German. And it was found iithat ecret inormation wsbeing- conveyed ta the en emy thirouigb cad1es disguiseda zs emibroidiery or rpintpters A cer-tain fashion pbaotdgraï- pher, fanr instance, lbcd been in- stailed ini Paris for 17 years. Ille spokeýý perfect Fnench and was generalIyvbelieveci ta be framn Lorrainec. He lef t Paris quietly ion a vacation sbantiy ýbefarec tbe cleclasratian af war lm 1939. H-e retunnred iii 19410 with thc thon victonlous German iAinmy ai Occupation, as aalieut4enaýnt in a gre n uiirm on1a itoill This lieutenant wais placed -at the bhead ori censorship ai the Paris fashion press.-. H bd a com-plete alssien on everyoie ili fasion-wiýtb a big black mark agaiust thec namnes af tilase who bcd refused ta use bis photo- grapbs on had otherwise oiiend- cd him tbxaupgh the years. Hle took pleasure lun efusiug ta pass thin articles, thýus forcing thiem Q ut of jobs, or even shut- tïingý down thoir publications. -But ta neturn ta the pirates responsible ion 'the loss ta cou- ture cofiers of mnillions oi francs ecci season were the mnodeli- rentons, These wer-e not, stictely spoakiug, capyists. Tbcy placeti big ordens ion Paris originels ai top prices. The catch was--they thoni tou-red Amierica siowing ihtbem on one-igit stands. Tickets 0f admission used tau be $100.00, Manufacturens nat only of gaviments, but aif but- tons, beits, zippers, accessonies, textiles, etc. coulct for thiat pnice jsketch, bandie, and capy as muck. as they could neýmember. Even Mien the couturiers dis- cavered what was happening, thcy bcd na redress; wh-at model renters did with their propei-ty ini he United States was autside their jun.iîsdiction. Ai known madel-reuters wce barrc4 i orthwith fnom tic top Paris sbc'wings. Then they. toâ, resorted Loomany sub1terfugeýs ét obDta<in theýir imerchandise. A rmode& renter was the cen- tral character of a wartime thriller-sort of a mrinor Matai ,Hani of Ilhe rufflè! This was during the so-called "phany, waýr,"9 when the French and Gerima, troprs exchanged ai occasioniai grenade acrass the Maginat 'Line and 111e in Paris. was adventurous, bt flot yet really bazardous. Que model renter lot us cali hier Miss Borrowby-alone had braved possible perils ta corne 1ta Paris by clipper and attend couture sQinsbeinug held tor pnivate custons. Shehod no doubltota soop the Ame11r1canf market witb some unique Paris designs for wbich shec cou Id oh- viausly commnand bier own plnice. Miss Borrowbyv,ýcn, 1om ii kew siightly but n-ot as a modelt rent- er. invited me ta lunch. "Amer- icans should stock togath ler, these days, there are, so few aie us left lu Paris:," she said. -1 am a ý "But I1av no longer a sol assistant. You attend ai] the openings ywy Itwul b a g2reat favar if you wouùLld slc a ew,, nuimbors for m e themn made up ini your size" 1 explaimed ta ber that as a n1ý mber oai thewarking ,Ple-s> 1 ,oul(d buy nothing ,for eae She let t ater drap and I forgot a]l aoutbe. Thtis, until Irecived 1an, urgent c111from SbiParli Ietting nme-in (onlail 0usstory. "Scbficýp", said iss or rowby lbcd tried tae uvii! aP the houses, but hiad ! ntre down-,. S1bequnt\1a u1 American nigbt - clubsigr perform-ýiiin ore (itexv time bedotcvsbior dened s(eealevnig axes For lberacet, sbesa. themn. As a mto iruie she c id c~kdwithL cîi Lelang, prsien aith Fr' couture synrdicie. Thii A h;dýý got a mnmber *of t1 nitii alsa. Furthe ivstgain hac that sho( had bou'bIt ineey leadin atuirs esclh ment mor-ecohea Lee remcarked, tha1,,n she could v~r (or pa'y for nt oai ha,- sal-1-y) foiecs. A cmpn onbc acquired a supi-os olecio of dlaytimie outfitsý. Here's where the -DeuLxiemeý Bureau wený1t intoa action. Th e t'rail led ta MissBrob' botel. Tbey srauddit. but Mliss Brob, mseiul tipe ff, bcnd flown. Litenallyý in a private, bîred plane, hbead- ed for Libson and the hiome- boulid clijpper. DeïlxieioE Bu- reau ag-ents fallowed in a b)raceP- of figbters. Thiere was an ex- citin'g (and close) cbase a, ven- the Pyrenees. The aierted Lisbou Police hiad noa authority ta detain an Ainericait citizen. White tnring ta getitl they did mnanage si-f- ficient delayîngc tactics ta pre- Veut Miss B's getting berdrse cleared. The bureau mien ar- rived just in time ta sec tha clipper disappear lu the clouds. 1thelady ou board. The boot was piled up on the strand. They took it back ta Paris. It is such gaings-an that leil 1toû the sevene, sereening of per- sous attcndiug the first show- ings of Paris couture tadcay. Thcse miust present their pass,- ports andi each une a special 1identity card issucd by the Parie couture syndicate. One muist pay thec "dedit," a deposit, be- ,fore being -,allowcd ta view any show, If g. purchase is made, tii, dedit is appiîed ta it, If not, il- is farfeited. At Dior's the dedit le $1,MI ta sec the clothes, anather $"01 agaiust thc bats. TVhe miniimum in sonie lesser bouses is $600. ISSUE 40 - -19.56 ýake this d.elicious COFFEE LAYER CAKE! 1'C- enC*-$ift&d PuetrY Jl*Ur ý e11/2C. nce-sitd 0a- purpe*.fleur 2 tes.e Mugic Bukiasg Pwd*ý /4 tep. bklng cd 2 ttps. Instunt Ch. k Sanber CoffIe. 111 CmbineYO o an d.pend on IIIIIkMAGIC to protect ail your Va sp.vanllefine Ingredent .givt Ad d &y Ingr@dienlts la creimed yau lighter, finer-textured Crensmixture aitsernately with uiIk con-i resuits. Suy MAGIC C. ght>enine bînhig affteer cdadditon. Turn o Sakng Powder Graiduolly btnd in Into 2 grecised 8-inch round col<e i t. ighty-pactad rewn pans, ined In bottom witl, gr*ase iex t caserwaxed puper. Bake Inrn oder. 'ou shop- 1/2 reuuede~. ately hot qen, 375', 25 ta 30 Î9 minutes. Put layoe of cQld cake 2well-btaelc @flU ptween and cov*r .,ithi a af fa.. beat;.g wall aifwe cdizdition. flaivortd frotIng.