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EET lh ARERR PRE pad a ---------- ---- -- THE OSHAWA DAILY TIMES, . "A Page of Latest Fash 5. ions for Times Readers ¥ COPEL T/L CPNTY PVRS TOS THO TOE SIRATrD 'Midwinter is Gala Time in the Millinery Mode -- Displays Are Broad and Comprehensive, HE urge for a + ~ hat can be most satisfacto met at the moment, We are benefitted by the fashion situation that pesults from the Introduction of winter resort wear into the cold weather mode, We steal new ideas from the models offered for the frst purpose and apply them to the Jatest acquisitions to our ward- robe, Especially is this true of millinery, which shows the first signs of change soon after Christ. mas. The fur coat season is at its height, winter fabrics and lines still rule the mode, and there is an entirely new mode in the process of making. All three of these con. ditions effect our headwear, mak- fog it, equally good for the woman who cannot afford a new hat and for the woman who can. The vel- wet chapeau is by no means passe oven though the straw hat occupies ® most prominent position in the displays. There is the mid-season hat to be considered--it has something of the old and more of the new about #t. Its material, lines, color and possibly its trimming proclaim it an advance courier of another sea- son's fashions, and it intrigues our interest, even as it fits a special imeed. It is in the hat of this type ithat the spirit of the two seasons-- present and future--really meet, lend it deserves our study, ! Materials The First Consideration In one's search for a new bat ere is one thing that will be taken {nto consideration--the fabric of which it is made, Even though 'there may be snow on the ground when the choice is being made, the 'material will not be velvet or any ,®f the heavier stuffs that we as- 'sociate with winter. It will be felt of the finest and most supple iguality, if it 'is pot satin, faille or grosgrain silk, *The darker shades for town and winter wear, the lighter shades and white for southern wear" this tells the story, For there are far more models made of the materials that one travels $n, or uses to supplement the frock worn beneath the fur coat, than there are models of straw in the spirit of summer. At times there sre trimmings of straw, but they ore applied in a manner notable »for its restraint. The Small Hat Is Interesting ! Feminine trends and luxury com- i plexes potwithstanding, the large Bat will attain only 8 minor con- 'sideration, this coming season. Summer would not be summer swithout the picture hat, but all Lg an will stress the little that is, sometimes, no "an a cap that follows the . of the head. It is as chic is close fitting, often than otherwise it is made even smarter by a saucy lace veil Adorable large hats are offered, ®f course, but the power of the small bat seems absolute in the mode. And who will deny that there 1s justice? Nine out of ten of the new small hats are cloch is made to do utterly new and strange things before it is offered to the waiting fashion world, The silks are corded and quilted and stitched, felts are cut and woven and appliqued, and two materials are brought into a harmony of line and general effect that is mest fetching, Felt can be made to do many surprising things when the shears are held by skillful hands, Taffeta and grosgrain seem quite as important as satin, in spite of the fact that we have come to look upon satin as the first mid-season material, The grosgrain is not ribbon, as so many think, but silk by the yard, although, of course, the ribbon Is preferred for trims ming uses, Satin and taffeta coms bine effectively with straw, and hats in this combination will ap- pear In constantly increasing numbers, With a thought of the future, so soon to be the present, we enum- erate the straws of the southern mode. Bangkok, ballibunt] and Milan, three old stand-bys; crochet straw and picot, the latter resem- bling Milan, but finer in weave; hair or crin and jersey straw, and these are the most important. We may expect leghorn and the usual straws that are part and parcel of the summer garden hat. For Mid-Scason Purposes The tendency to manipulate fabrics is admirably illustrated in the two models done in taffeta, the one with a crown that is heavily corded and draped, the other quilted. The former combines the taffeta with a two-tone braid, used for the brim, one tone that of the silk, the other that of the stiching, The quilted hat exemplifies the fashion of the single ornamenta- tion of fancy pins, considered very smart. Taffeta Is again the medium in a cloche model that is extremely simple in line, but showing hand work in fits ornamentation. The silk is moss green in its color, and the tiny beads that cover it are bronze. The simple band of taf- feta breaks the line that would be ugly were it left unbroken. The brim is the true cloche line, and the crown impresses one as a bit higher than ordinary. Crepe is another material that is used for the hat that is quilted, The stitching is usually carried out in a fancy pattern, and the colors are new and gay, seeming, by their brightnees, to inject a note of gayety into the more somber win- ter colors. They're making hats of braided taffeta, for variety, and charming things they are. And they're tucking felts, both crowns and brims, for novelty. The Seemingly Simple Large Hat Mention must be made of the THE SUR $0 NS FN PAPE ART fFTRTX (=r pee WL TALE REAL TED Torr fr OS EATONY AONE LTE yr THE STILL JS IYERY TOE ARRAN TS SAVE THALES fT, pa" escape the skiliful manipulation that is characteristic of all new millinery models. Brims are wide at the sides and in front and narrow at the back, or they continue their width all the way round. And they really seek individuality, evidenced In the shape of black straw that pro- ceeds to cover its crown with a printed silk, then borders its brim in the same way. The nosegay of flowers carries out the same color- ings that are used In the pattern of the silk, Introducing A New C The second picture hat, with its broad, drooping brim, is wreathed with flowers in rich colorings. The crown is creased to give it an un- usual Jine, and the hat is worn with one of the new scarfs that are bidding for recognition. It is made of white chiffon and cob- webby black lace, and fastened at hinaté OF AFOOT GREELY TAFFETA GE AOEAD WWATH PAV RLE TET ALOT the shoulder with a nosegay. This combination is quite new and has much to recommend it, It is not possible to touch on the millinery mode without making mention of the attempt to revive the fashion of the veil, and design ers are going about it in such an original way that already they bave earnest of success. It is an airy little affair, round in shape to fall over the crown, cut out to fit over the brim with tabs over the ears, or draped In a style that is Egyptian, It will bear watch- ing. WERE DEALYYG VY FUTURES E are in the midst of the ©. Beach season. This means that some of us are actually purchasing summer things, though 4t is only mid-winter; it means that others of us 're watch- ing to see what those purchases are. For we realize that the mode for the of 1928 is In the making, our interest is very keen. We are dealing in futures, not the present, and it's interest- It is almost impossible to explain the paradoxi t that the tendency of the mode continues toward an even more elaborate simplicity: Our first impression of 2 new model is of its demureness and lack of fussiness. But an ex- amination of it proves that while or, at least, they show cloche ten- dencies. And the real wonder of the entire fashion world is the welcome, type of millinery, There are variations in brims Neo matter what the material, #t large hat, for it will have its place in the summer mode, even though the small hat will be the unques- tioned ruler. Designers are offer- ing some beautiful models that are characterized by simplicity, but are not simple at all. Crin fs a favorite material, and it does mot Did You HAT the uneven hemline, hitherto sacred to the after- noon and evening mode, has appeared in sportswear? Frocks dip in the back and rise in the front, prophesying longer skirts, and io many of the fashion cable- grams there is frank mention of the "new longer skirt" THAT the blazer is again offered for warm weather wear, and this time its stripes endeavor to blaze a new trail for themselves. They take a diagonal, instead of a wer- tical course, and are most effective et! four col are used in the striping process. THAT beachwear seems to in- Know ~ sist upon glorifying the hitherto practical jersey suit? There are more and more active swimmers are swimming suits in gay colors and patterns of this most practical fabric. THAT pearls are having to ad- mit that colored stones are 2 worth-while rival, and doing so it is simple in effect, it is most elaborately conceived. And much of this results from the new and clever uses of lines. We are interested in no other detail as we are in the length of skirts. Perceptibly they grew shorter, and we welcomed their comfort. But the fashion was abused, and we are glad to report that skirts are, imperceptibly, growing longer. Nothing radical, but the inevitable dropping of the hemline that will make for a more general becomingness--{few wear a knee length skirt acceptably. Lines are achieving this end. Evening frocks first featured the | uneven hemline. The period dress dipped in back and rose in front, and other models featured uneven bemlines of many sorts. Then the afternoon frock acquired an un- even hemline. , Now, the latest news reports tell us that the sports dress fis featuring "an irregular hemline, the effect of length achieved in this manner. They will tell. you, in a general way, that the silhouette is straight, but is it? We hear talk and see concrete examples of draperies bunched at the side in what the designer is pleased to call a There are evening frocks that boast a bustle effect, and the only possible companion details are the fitted bodice and the un- even skirt, and these lines can hardly be called straight--yet they are. , ness, well and good. But the gen- eral lines are anything but straight, that is, in the sense of unbroken. No line seems to finish what it) begins. If the bodice has a sur- | plice line running to the left, the skirt drops decidedly at the right in reverse line. A dipping drapery on one side of the skirt may be opposed by a dipping wing drape on the other side of the blouse. Another example of this is the assymetry that is applied to trim- mings, further carried out in late models that seem to work on the principle that one side may not know what the other side does. The straight and narrow way is not followed, and the result is fas- cinating in spite of this departure. Dips and points and one-sided ef- | fects seem the very spirit of the | new Palm Beach offerings. There are some new fabrics-- | | lowered taffeta for evening and gypsy prints for smart sports { frocks. 'The white frock, of crepe {de chine or china silk, elaborately hand-wrought, is a feature, fagot- {ting the best-liked hand work. There are some very new lace frocks with long sleeves and to keep the balance, there are tennis frocks without any sleeves at all. The monogram frock is back again. The lght weight tweeds and kashmir flannels make sports en- sembles, there are checked wool Georgettes and tailored two-piece frocks, the fabric flat crepe, and Angora knit or novelty knit jump- ers are worn with gilk skirts Checks and polka-dots are im- portant and special mention must be made of the handkerchief Scarfs are used to make sports if the effect is one of straight- trocks--printed, of course. | linens, both plain and printed. Fo The Brightest Green Or Purple--Milady Defies The Weather ATT IT OYE a Making Their Debut HERE are some fresh, lovely, colorful and wholly new fabrice 0 be had, each and every one of them approved of Paris, each and every one of them breathing the spirit of spring. Heading the list, because first in appropriateness: for Northern use, are the tweeds. They are beautifully woven and very light of weight, and they are soft and pliable, as they have to be. Knitted tweeds are smart. There are some charming basket weave woolens for coats, and others done in lock stitch. Then some of these novelty woolens have artificial silk woven into the fabric along with the wool. The wool crepes are sheer in their appearance, but seem to have body enough to make them a possibility for the tailored sarment for which they are, many of them, designed. Crepe is beau- t1ful in its coloring. Handkerchief linen is very gene erally featured in the new things for| Southern wear. It is a patterned! !Inen, for the most part. showing lower designs, odd futuristic pat-! terns, checks in odd shapes and! polka dots. The heavier linens are. also featured, and they are hand. blocked, printed and embroidered, ! There are beautiful shades In solid color linens and there are some! unusual drop-stitch weaves. | There are cottons, too, bidding | for our admiration. and getting it, | Lawn is returned to us, sheer and | exquisite in coloring. Printed pique | is a novelty--new. It has droll! little old-fashioned designs, and it | is also offered in the Inevitable | polka-dot pattern, as well as the | solid colors and white, Printed! pique and plain are used together! in some really unusual models. And prints, of course, are every. where. The crepes and chiffons| and the light and heavy weight silks all yield to the lure of print! «ng. Flowers and fruits and do's! and "balloons" appear in the de- signs, and there are geometrical fancies represented, y { = [LAUGHING AT THE WEATHER SHION has discovered that he stormy day is an excuse for charming, though char- acteristic apparel, and has diverted some of her genius to exploiting .it, It Is, therefore, no longer a problem to the well- dressed woman, to find adequate garments that are smart, as well, for she finds that the department where they offer these things Is surfeited with clever coats, hats and accessories, The idea began with the intro- duction of the gay-hued umbrella, a tashlop that has been enlarged upon J] many women find the new ralh-sticks an excuse for wishing for a rainy day. And itis a most satisfactory thing to know --that the delicate frock and the equally delicate hoslery and foot- wear can one's smartness is not diminished in the least. The word "Raincoat" was a synonym for drab ugliness, and atrocity. garments that are light of weight, waterproofed and exceedingly smart of line and color. Into the fash- foning of the mew raincoats de- signers have put a very great deal of thought, Incorporating in thelr details all the fine points of smart sportswear. There are many roads to storm- proofed smartness, all of them pleasant, Manufacturers are re- sponsible for the new materials-- gabardine that is very light, crepe de chine, cravanette; satin and vel- vet are all represented, along with rubber and leather that is molst- ure repelling. And the colors are enticing, running the gamut from amber, blue and brown, to white. There are novelty fabrics, finished to resemble leather, and some of the silk and velvet coats are trimmed with simulated reptilian leathers, or, and it seems really ap- propriate, with oflcloth. The idea of trimming the raincoat with a contrasting material and color is a real aid to smartness, permitting the incorporating of fashionable details, where it would, otherwise. | be impossible. | The models themselves are rather inclined to the sports and military types. They are belted and pocketed and strapped and but- toned, not only smartly, but in such a way that they aid in pro- tection. No chance for stray rain- drops to undo the work that the garment itself has done. Buckles are a favorite detail, and some- times they are matched to the but- tons that are used. Some of the lght materiale demand a lining, for warmth, al- though the unlined coats can be worn over the usual wrap or coat. A coat of rubberized gabardine is cut on the same lines, and with the same attention to detail, of the army officer's coat. Another. of a8 fabric that resembles alligator A coat of rubbenzed fabric with reversible Mning of plaid hat and umbrella of Coats of changeable matched by hat and umbrella, black, through red, green, purple, |- the like, Many of these sets are importations. i The vogue for light-hued stocks | ings presented a new rainy day problem. Useless to expect Milady | to wear taupe or black hoslery, when it would not be the correct thing! But wet and muddy walks | soon took their toll of fresh stock- ings, spattering them Intc drab, ugliness. The Immediate result was the overshoe, black, buckled, ugly beyond words, but a most! efficient protection. T The overshoe of today is a fine. fitting, attractively designed plece of footwear, and this particular! season has seen the inauguration of two other fashions In protective e worn In safety, no' matter how inclement the day, and once | it was nothing short of a sartorial But it now stands for Detracts in No Way From Their Smartncss leggings. One offering, of rubber- ized material, has hookless fasten- ings, and comes in a color match the raincoat, providing abs) solute protection. Another ides lo' the wool sock that may be wors| ankle high--or in the mamper of' golf socks. SEEN IN THE SHOPS | The new gold or gilt jewelry that Paris has sponsored--we give thoughtful consideration to fashion approved in this fashior