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-- Sse LAY. of [fH SLAY -- AAI TIP CLOTH fpr 7A LLTFTHLENR FULLEST The Ensemble ProvidesaNucleusforthe Wardrobe --lt Also Serves As a Back- ground for Minor Ensembies, E hailed the ensemble, on its first appearance, as a novelty, giving It consid- cration as a passing vogue, Jive... ininking it would become a fundamental of fashion. It has done just this, and the question that confronts us, each new sea- #on, is not concerning the exist- ence of this feature, but the form §t will take. Upon that form de- pends the variety of our costum- ing, for variety we find Increas- $ngly important, In its original presentation the ensemble was made up of a frock and coat that used the same ma- terial for both dress and coat, an- other fabric combined with the coat fabric for the frock, in many instances. By gradual degrees the direct matching of materials has disappeared, and for some seasons we have had an ensemble that was ® thing of subtlety, withal a very lovely addition to our wardrobe. If a prediction can be made, this early in the year, it will tell of another form of direct match- Sng, this time of colors, for that seems to be the theme that Is being worked out In advance models presented for resort wear. First, materials; then subtle trim- ming effects, and now colors are the basis upon which the structure is built. Thus variety is served, and all concerned are satisfied. Exceptions Prove The Rule No rule is infallible in fashion, end there are always smart ex- ceptions to prove it. If the frock of an ensemble is of one material and the coat of another, the two will be tied together by a trim- ming effect, as of appliques of the cost material on the frock. Both color and material may be matched, or there may be only the subtiest sort of a tie between the dress and the coat that makes #t into an ensemble. We are becoming accustomed to the stimulation that variety pro- vides and demanding It as our pight. The essentials may be the same, but results will differ in rance--s0 do we express our individuality. Emphasis is placed om fabrics and colors, quite as much as on lines, in this new mode that is shaping. There have been more expres- sions of the matching coat and frock in sportswear than in any other, so far, for the Palm Beach season demands many variations of this type. Yet the more formal ensembles have not been lacking, or those with a tailored mien, The latter bear little resemblance to the mannish ensemble that was the original expression of this idea. The teminine influence has done its task thoroughly. In The Approved Sports Manner Flannel, jersey and the knit materials are variously used In the ensembles designed for resort wear. There are many novelty ma- terials, and one notes a decided inclination to include prints of various sorts In the new costumes, Bweaters grow daily more im- portant, for the sweater ensemble is the "find" of the season, and with several of these garments in different colors, many combina- tions can be effected. If you plan a wardrobe with economy in mind, as most of us do, it is an excellent idea to select the ensemble so that no one of its parts is so completely identified with another that they cannot be separated. A pleated cloth skirt and matching coat may take to itself sweaters and blouses in wide variety, if the original color is neutral. Attention is focussed on the sweater or blouse, not on cout or skirt, Flannel is rather a leader in sports materials, this new season. One sees it combined with crepe and silk, as well as associated with the sweater, and it comes In soft, supple weaves that are charming, and -in colors that are little short of perfection. For many uses tweed is the perfect choice, and it has the advantage of practical- ity, for its tones are neutral, mak- ing combinations with color varied. The Cape Defies The Coat There is rivalry apparent in the world of coats, for the cape has announced {itself a contender for the fashion throne, The coat, striving to offset the undeniable smartness of the cape is appear- ing in jacket, three-quarters and full length styles but the smart, ™ re "ALL SET!" MODE EY CARA 4 LL TLON oA GOROERELD SHELA A777 CLEVER COSTLN7E TZ THO FAEA/CS AVL THO CooL ORS COrvE/ VE straight lineg of the new capes, moulded to the shoulders in a way that suggests the military bid fair to hold the center of the stage. No outer wrap possesses the jauntiness of the cape, and when it comes In materials that are as smart as materials can be, the seeker after change is sure to give this garment her rapt considera- tion. A frock of flannel in soft green, adorned with appliques in corn floss yellow, is assured its good standing in the ensemble group by a three-quarters length cape of the green, lined with the yellow. Velvet, of the light weight mentals that remain immune 80 change, the woman with a lim- fted clothes budget would be in a most trying situation. Every new season brings something différent, and we hear talk of "trends" to- ward this, that, or the other thing. Vogues and whims and fads come and go, but some few styles endure, Do matter how completely they may be surrounded by caprices. To these style fundamentals we are indebted for the second, even the third season's wear from a coat or an evening frock. To them: we owe the undying smartness of our every day apparel when the budget does not admit of our following the swift pace the designers set for us. in materials the tweeds, home- ERE it not for the fact that :-- are certain style funda- group includes the crepes, taffeta, satin, chiffon and velvet. Perhaps one may be stressed more than another, but no one is ever wholly out of fashion. Black, white, the two in combination, navy blue, and blue and white, are never passe, black a veritable tower of strength to the woman really in doubt. Simplicity is a classic, which may, at first reading, seem strange- ly phrased. But the coat or the frock in a classic color and ma- terial, cut in simple lines with nothing radical in its decoration, can always go over to the next sca- son without seeming to be out of date. A black broadcloth coat with fox collar and cuffs, the model straight of line and finely tailored, is good to the last thread and the last hair! The tailored suit, made up of THEY CALL THEM "CLASSICS" line, is a classic. Blouses may come and go, but the suit remains smart throughout the process. Its complements are the little felt hat of the cloche type, one-strap slip- pers or Oxfords, and a tailored blouse of silk or satin. Sweater suits have become classic. They are made up of skirt, sweater and cardigan jacket. The simple Mne fur coat--of seal, mink, sable, ermine, muskrat or beaver, as purpose may decide-- is a classic. Pumps, for afternoon and evening wear, envelope and pouch bags, the scarf, kerchief or shawl, the robe de style of the evening mode, the picture hat in summer, the jersey swimming suit, the fox fur for the fur-less coat or suit; all these are of the group of style fundamentals that have, by their appropriateness to purpose, faprics &ce cigssic, ang the | short coat and skirt and slender of DECI CLASS, spuns, broadcloths and twill-fin- bed TVLN LIVITL/ TELE ad LAAN AANVEL FATE rr 7 variety, 1s used for coats and capes, royal blue and white a combination that Is most effective, The light weight kashas and home- spun are two approved sports ma- terials, yet flannel and tweed are far more important, Tailored en- sembles Incline to the jacket coal, straight of line and hip length. An innovation, or a "return" is the tuck-in blouse, confined to a select few who can wear It well, An Amazing Breadth Of Type Sports and tallored ensembles form a considerable group by themselves, but they merely scratch the surface of this fashion. We no longer wear sports things throughout the day, but fit our ap- parel to our occupation, The pridge game, the tea hour, the in- formal dinner, all make their de-!| And, un- | mand on our wardrobe. less signs fall, we shall need a costume of the ensemble type for them all, even the evening that is formal. The silks and the crepes, as well as the Georgettes and the chiffons, will enter the picture when the noon hour strikes. For early gpring we may expect the cloth coat that is a background for the incidental frock, chosen with. one object in view--an alliance, the one with the other, But there will be at least one silk coat in the wardrobe--satin, taffeta, alpaca, poplin, as the choice may be. Against such a coat one may build any number of ensembles, regulating their formality by color, line and material. Be it known that the printed silk frock, or the chiffon, or the Georgette, will be used in an ensemble that has a coat in a plain color, the latter the dominant color in the print. The coat may complete a costume when used with any number of frocks--it will be black, navy, beige, gray or brown. Consider The Relation Of Lines In choosing a coat for wear with several frocks, your idea being to complete several ensembles with the one garment, it will be. well to keep lines in mind. This word is used in referénce to trimmings, rather than the lines of the gar- ment itself, for the buyer will be conservative in her choice of a silhouette, remembering that any- thing radical makes for a con- splcuousness that does not har- monize well. If round lines are incorporated into the coat idea, then round lines must be chosen for the frock, and the same is true of points, scallops, diafnonds and so forth. it were better to avoid any one of these, then there will be no quarrel between coat and frock, A really conservative coat will harmonize with any type of frock, and since one coat is the Mmit for many of us, this should be our choice. The pictured ensemble carried out in kasha cloth is "natural" in its color, making a perfect barks] ground for the stripings in the pastel tones of red and green. The skirt Is of the kasha cloth, and the fringed bands on the coat hold to this fabric. But the blouse is of white satin with a narrow V- band of the kasha at the neckline, The color scheme will | Soseost FINE FROCKS HAVE FIN other blouses to complement coat {and skirt, Knit Materials Attract "Attention The sports ensemble in black and white finds a knit fabric*ex- cellent for the purpose. Coat and skirt are simple In the extreme, and smartness is added by the blouse of striped material made In AA O/T Z/CT/vaE TL OF THe DOUELE FANNCGE | eurplice fashion, and "chained" | rather than belted, Another en- | sembie illustrates the use of bor- gered tabrics in the ensemble mode, Coat and frock are of coun- pos. materials, linked together | by the printed border, | © Prints or printed effects, it does not matter which, so long as they are arresting! Three widely dif- ferent models prove 'this, the first of the three developed in natural kashmir cloth. Coat and skirt are simple In thelr manner, but the blouse takes to itself leather ap- pliques in harmonizing tones--the same colors predominate In the kerchief that trails from the pocket of the coat. In the second model a bold pat- terned print is used for the coat, which is bound with a soli color, while the frock, of white silk, be- comes identified with the coat by its printed trimming. In the third model the pastels are introduced, the coat, of cloth material, asso- ciated with the frock by its lining The use of color in this model is the result of sheer artistry, and GL ACH SH TRPT ZY COAT W775" ANY T7ZELD BOUTE Did You Know - HAT the really newest note C concerning spring coats has to do with the cape? Original and clever uses of this feature are characteristic of the smartest mod. els, both sleeves and panels taking this direction, The cape as a gare ment will also be featured. THAT a smart ensemble, of an imported basket weave fabric, is composed of a two-piece frock and a slender line coat? The latter is tucked to accentuate Its slimness, the former is trimmed with fringes of the fabric itself, Important, be cause it is prophetic, THAT the resort season bids fale to popularize the convenient and economical blouse? It comes in a variety of styles for wear with sep- arate skirts, thereby making 2a frock, or for wear with an ensems ble that needs Its third to complete a satisfactory whole, THAT one of the important sue- cesses of the Palm Beach season is the jacket frock developed in white and middy blue. The latter is a bright navy, and is used for the jersey jacket, The frock is white crepe de chine, and the kerchief is white with middy border and mone. ogram, ROCKS may be viewed in hu- morous vein, if one is so in- clined, for they earn the title "loquacious" by the thorough. ness with which they go into de- tail. There is little of uniformity about them, even when they be- long to the same group, which is a point in their favor. There are individual Interpretations of every theme, a wide range of fabrics and a hitherto unmatched variety of silhouettes. And there are types galore-- sports, tailored, formal, informal, one and two-piece, and each and every type takes 'to itself fabrics old and usual, or new and unusual, as the case may be. Passing ma- terials and colors by, we come to details, which make the silhouette and trim the frock; achieving the differentness that is demanded by everyone, Becomingness can be achieved, if one makes a study of the offerings. The model that is purchased at this between-season time must an- swer two purposes. It must smarten the dulled winter ward- robe with an undeniable newness, | and it must be correct for early | spring wear under the new coat, or with a fur, if that kind of a frock. Perhaps it will pass unnoticed, if it is not just the right model, but the wearer will know, and one is only as happy as one thinks she is, after all. Fashion is lenient and she 1s not secretive, especially when she is trying out her newest ideas in the winter resorts of the south and abroad. We will assume that your purchase is to be a mid-season frock, calculated to bridge the gap between winter and spring. Of some few things that have to do with the new models you can be comparatively sure--we shall enu. merate those things. We will eonsider, for the mo- ment, the mid-winter town: frock. It will serve one of three purposes --for practical uses, for formal afternoon wear, for evening wear. In the first group we place the model that has sports or tailored inclinations. we wear it shopping in town, we even dare a matinee in a model of this sort. It must not border on the elaborate; mor can it incline, even in the least, to mannishness. In the second group we place the models that form an ensemble with the dress coat or are worn under the coat of fur, bridge frocks, frocks for the tea hour at a smart hotel, frocks that go out to the not too formal dinner. The third group includes both the for- mal and the informal evening frock, the former sometimes dis- guised as the latter, a sort of two- in-one affair. The general trend toward light weight materials has effected the tailored dress. Wools in sheer weaves--the volles and Georgettes' effective In the extreme, --are preferred, although the kashas, wool crepes and fabrics of this type are very generally used. Crepes and satins and 'prints are classed with this group, the latter in the mood of every variation of the mode from early morning until iate evening. Prints are the spice of fashion at this time of the year, There will be more of them sold than there will of solid colors during the next few weeks. They will go south and stay north with equal appropriateness, and they will join every fabric group that they can. Black and white, blue and white, gay with color they will be, and ope.rule will govern designs--small patterns for silks, large for chif- fons. Sports models will use them, so will tailored--witness ' the frock pictured. The afternoon models and evening models will approve themm--the smartest possible eve- ping frock is the flowered taffeta in period style--happy she who can wear it! They will appear unrelieved, they will be banded in solid colors, or they will combine with solid tones that strengthen some shade in the design of the print. An entire department will be given over to prints, and it will: be sub- divided, with space for the frock for the junior and the sub-deb, space for the youthful matron, space for the larger woman. And again, there will be sports frocks and those with formal aspirations. Stripes, plaids, dots, geometric de- signs, flowers, large or small, bor- dered silks, they will all be there, and in attractive variety. In general it is a graceful, fem. inine mode. The appearance of slenderness prevails, but it is a soft slenderness. One gets the im- pression of ripples and soft move- ment. In a wholesale emumera- tion we speak of pleats, tiers, flares, drapes, panels, bows, jabots and frills. And one may add pip- ings, fagotting, bandings, tuckings, inlays and rhinestone ornaments, buckles and pins. A single rack of frocks in a single size will tell the story in a DETAILS vivid, varied way. An allover small print silk, with a skirt shirred to the proper tightness over the hip- line, will have a surplice bodice with scalloped edges. It will tie dt the closing and the long ends will reach to the hem edge, giving an impression of length. The scallops will be piped or bound with solid color. The very next model will be a flounced affair, the next will be bolero-ed, another will put its faith in drapes. Some will be one and others will be two-plece affairs, but the fashion news-mongers tell us that the one-piece ls favored, However, a survey of the shops will disclose quite as many (woe piece modes as one. But to go further into the matter of details--keep within certain prescribed limits and you will not wake up to the fact, a few weeks from now, that you are out of, not in, the fashion picture, These lime its are set quite as much by your own individual figure as by fashe ion, and it is quite possible to ruin the purpose of the smartest frock in the shop, if it was designed for another figure than the one that is wearing it. First of all, the irregi gr Brin- line is approved. Son. ri..y of it, dipping somewherc, lifting somewhere, is your particular vers sion of it. The dip must not be too low or the lift too high, there must be proper balance. The really short skirt is not good form, this pre-season time. There may be a8 place in the hemline that' is really very short, but the general appease ance will offset it. Watch your waistline. Fashion likes the normal line, but few can wear it. Lower it to the most be. coming point and you will have fashion with you. The swathed bipline is the smartest one--one must be very neat as to hips and waistline, these days. You may select a bodice that fs bloused slightly, if it is your Mpe, the bolero is approved, and the capelet and the scarf are both a part of the new mode. The V-neck is the most generals ly becoming, but there are bost necks and round necks and those with a square, diagonal or irregs ular line--the trimming on the frock has an effect on this. Sleeves are long, at the moment. though sleeveless summer frocks are prophesied. For variety there ars assymetrical effects in trimming, and few frocks are offered that do not achieve their smartness through the medium of trimming details.