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THE SPORTS Caf OF FORPLELIU LD BCL AT T/A No Single Characteristic Means As Much | ToUs ~sVariety -- W hen It Exists, the 'W hole World Can Be Smartly Clad B Only when we possess o hing that we begin tg-wepder ust how one really does without 4, and this is true of fashion, us of life. Through 'parrow, ones idea scasons we have made our way to a4 time of plenty, to a time when the mature woman can find mature fashions with the cachet of youth, and youth sean dress the part. Mother and deggie aré no longer twins in thelr Spparely gle word expresses Jt-- And that word apples to divisions and subdivisions of the ytime dress and Its s that we choose for s, for city wear, for formal for informal affairs, And delving even de r into the mode, we find that e type possesses diversified materials, lines, colors ils, embled wardrobe of the man is appropriate to her activities and to her type and age, The slender, mature woman the part, choosing very it garments from those worn by the plump matron. Sports attire belongs to sports activities, if we recognize some detafl that reminds of sports, {incorporated into an _ afterpoon frock, we at once realize Its appropriately changed interpretation. Variety In Fabrics And Colors Beginning with sports clothes, following through to formal evening things, we note the wide choice of materials. Tweed, jersey, covert cloth and novelty wools are expected, but enticing new weaves are offered. Flannel and crepe and silk are important, and with the new sea- son we were offered some interest- | ing interpretations of the knitted costume, proving its rapid advance to general popularity. Tweeds are held over for tailored things, and along with them go the twilled fabrics, broadcloth, kasha cloth and many of the men's wear fabrics. When it is an ensemble that Is to be considered, we haye frocks of silk or crepe, the printed | materials preferred. When the taflored suit is tailleur type, there will' be a blouse of crepe or silk to distinguish the model from the sports type. Afternoon calls forth the silks-- moire, faille and taffeta--for coats, as well as the satin weaves. Frocks incline to chiffon, lace or Georgette, anything that is sheer and pliable. But evening, usually restricted in its choice, weare chiffon and lace, or takes to taffeta, moire or satin, either filmy or stiff fabrics are per- wissible. 02 One of the newest ideas | is lace stiilened with horsehalr. Contributing To Fabric Beanty Textures and patterns may be lovely in themselves, but it Is the use of color that brings out that loveliness, And In this seasen of printed materials color plays. an even more important part. And there is po denying the variety that exists in the many shades of the familiar colors of other 'sea- sons, Again, following throygh, we find every taste and requirement met in 8a most satisfactory way. White, the pastels, the strong shades and the neutrals are of the sports mode. And even when tweed is the fabric, we see a radical departure from the grays, beiges, browns and blacks, for blue spd green are introduced most charm. ingly Into these weaves. Prints follow ope from morning through the evening, used, In a different way, of course, with every type of costume, formal or informe). Beige is popular, also parchment and the soft grays, and there is a pew color, grege, that is p com- bination of beige and gray, adding another neutral to our list. Ope finds it ap excellent co link, as in hosiery. Your. tailored copt may be pavy, wh Ma | wear a frock In some potive print, or in a brighter pr of blue. The frock fabric may the coat, or the lining may the coat. Every Detajl Has Its Deadly Rival Decisions are sp ly hard to | make, this season, for mot only will you find something appropriate and becoming for your purpose, {but you will And several some- | things. This will be true, not only of fabrics and colors, but of sil- | houette, lines and details, and it will be true in every type. De- cisions rest with the choosers, for while some things are 8 bit pewer than others, they mre pot » bit more seasonable, Certain things IRA the | mode, chief among them, the en- | semble. You will follow this theme in every costume, apd there will a special type of it for your be 2 That it is the true spirit of fashion, no ope will deny, there- fore it fs to w that there are of fit. It fs, really, ny in a concrete expression, the paths Therefore you may introduce fabrics and printed, dark FINDING NEW USES == FOR F you have been keeping lengths of fine lace carefully put away in tinted tissue--to insure its keeping its whiteness, then you can get it out at once, for there LACE some soft fabric---chiffon, say, or Georgette. But the really HRewe about this fabric its for ome and two-piece i will be many uses to which it can |; be put in the new wardrobe you are assembling. For #t happens that designers have, suddenly, re- discovered lace, and are playing with it as with a new toy. Results justify their sudden interest in it. The seentingly siniple frock in a dark color, satin sand dignified gith a very of * hand-work, has Mngefle fohches at neck and wristlines Real lace is always a bit formal, it may be amy real lace at all that you use for collar, g A vestee, in the usually of crepe or | THE LALLY BUNYULM EN adie I ATCC Na RIOIYC LEE CHES COG LE" 1 (hg -- TTD OF £F7YE £7CH. iT LETC COLORPELD EFROCH 7 L7CE AVE GEORGE TE 7/0 Seca AAU UE TES a Add THAT 7004 rime and say, and widely divergent lines ud the scheme of things without of unity. A Jit r a line that is | 2 foreign to scheme is fatal. r the changing sil % h permits straight , them, just a little. to note the grad- 1 of the waistline Mind the new A frock, quite start its -sleeved jacket removable for of suiting there are some clever pajama | that make mse of it. have introduced the for- lace hat as a estoct comple- Plierine And | and the downward trend of the hemline. An frregular hemline | means that both the short and the long exist, the one modifying the other, both prophetic of what is to come. In the pictures grouped above there is contrast, even though they serve the same purposes. Quite the most interesting model, et the moment, is the coat, for it. main- tains a conservative simplicity in a season that exploits capes of many kinds, flares and the moulded silhouette. Yet it, like every other fashion classic, extremely smart, it is the best that designers have to offer in a utility garment. Lace Alone And With Georgette Very popular with both designer and wearer, lace meets many needs. In the two frocks pictured we see it alone and with another fabpic. |In the sleeveless frock we have , | many details that remind us of the sports mode, but it is not a sports sodel. The sleeveless blouse inter- ry | "Three sports costumes for player spectator show the variety of This fashion. A pleated skirt seems imperative, but the coat may be long or short, the material plain or figured, patterns widely varied. Even the rigidly rules riding habit | johdpur ty pe that are preferred by many to the more familiar cut A worn with riding bepts. Collars Are NE of the identifications'of the 0 28 frock is the neck- 0 rom the round. and the aleau line, quite unadorned, we ovis to a choice of necklines that included the square and the V-shape, but all were inclined to keep the line, once drawn, un- trimmed. Now Wwe have the col- lared meckline, and it is offered. in a variety that is so great that jt means a type for everybody. Lines continue varied, and there are all sorts of curves, as well as many clean-cut squares, bateaus, and V's. The collars vary from the MlMngerie touch to the deep Bertha and the many adaptations of the scarf collar. The bateau line is softened amd made more becoming by a ripple collar or a touch of very fine pleating or a little round collar t may end in tabs--a suggestion OD length. Jabots are applied in various ways, and the V-neck is the ome that likes them best. It may be a jabot that knots at the point of the neckline, or a jabot that ends there, rippling to a point from width in back or the jabot may fall to or below the waistline. Some of the V- have a bit of a vestee to sq e the V, and this produces an altogether different effect at the neck. Pleated collars, the pleating very fine, and done in points or scallops, outline the V-neck, a narrow collar | runs She.entitedength-of a sunplice opening. with a bow at the point THI SERA TL ATCA E 7 TAH 7 COOD LATE CF IT 7rrCL 7 ' Back 'Again of the V, end in many different ways. We nautical theme, they call it, Scarf collars include inteppreta- tions that are little short of shawls, for they are wide. But they are, also, soft, and that means that they can be draped effectively. Such a collar may be deep in hack, very i long on one side of the front and shorter on the other, fastened with a brooch or ornament. Bertha collars of lace or the fabric of the frock are charming on the formal frock for evening. ------ The silhouette for afternoon ecen- ters on the fitted hipline, above which there may be a bodice that is slightly bloused. Width below this hipline is Imperative and the more cleverly it is manipulated, the better. The uneven hemline is a feature of this sithouetts: ~~ MAY CHANGE Siz ALL T7 URSEBACK riding 18 'u sper 'alized sport, when It comes 2 clothes. If one-is to ride, ,he must have an outfit that + wurrect, not only so far as COM: fort 18 concerned, but along the rules of established conventiopali- ties. This has always been frie, pithough there was, during the immediate post-war. period, seme- thing of a broadening of the Fules that governed riding Logs. Once again, however, lines are SHRrply drawn, In the history of this type of appapgl one great change has beep wrought, and this change was & logical' result of. the ado n of cross saddle riding. Bree and boots took the place of the lops- skirted costume, ahd by a gradual process of elimination addi tion 'the mannish outfit took on characteristics of femininity. Cor- rect form is Imperative, however, and good taste may pot be sacri- ficed"to that form. Probably the most important bjt of mews in. several years of un- changing dards has to do with the adoption of the long johdpurs, which are loose above the knee, in the manner of breeches, but long and tight-fitting below the kiee, extending to the ankles. They are worn with ordinary shoes rather than the usual riding booty § are no considerable item Of ex» pense in one's budget. The habit may be al in one material --whipcord a typical choice --or the coat may be different from #&he trousers. Gray fs the most conservative of colors, chosen and parrow 'tie collars |4n the tone known as Oxford, but there are habits which use the are borrowing from the navy, this| shades of brown, or green ip com- season, 80 we have the familiar sailor collar along with the pavy, | middy and sailor blues: The bination with brown. A plain fabric for the coat may be cop- trasted with. a checked material AT THE FEET OF NLY the geet that are smart. ly shod can tread the avenues of fashion with confidence. And footwear, this season, 0 resents a puzzling problem, for it is imaginative, and therefore a bit difficult. There are so many novel: ties that intrigue us with thelr charm, but are appropriate only for the special costume, that fit jis difficult to be practical. Few of us may aspire to separate footwear with each ensemble. So varied and interesting ave the models designed for y Wear that it is quite possible for us to consider the sslection of type An relation to our pocket-books. Black and brown sill predominate wher- ever women pedestrians ave found, these two colors followed by com- binations in brown and beige, black and beige orgbrown and black and v. Such combinations are made effective by different ma- AH ILIAY prime favorite, and after this first choice comes suede and then kid- skin. Patent fis combined with lizard or python, both "these rep- tilian leathers popular in footwear fashions. Gray footwear As seen, and python and kid in combination are to be had in an all gray shoe. Black, gray and brown may be as classics. after them follow the season's novelties. Beige is Roly 2 novelty, but than either iF "Patent leather 4s. as always. a'carvefully selected wariety in these Wi Lhe pieeches Saccessuries cape ried out In the browns, Another contrast js a rich brown with chamois colored breeches, still another a coat of deep green Worn with tan breeches, In the latter outfit the hat would be of green and the boots of tun. Apart from the usual broadecloih and whipcord habits are those made of fine fabrics that are imported dnd known as novelty wools. Breeches, which come in for a good bit of bard wear demand sturdy fabrics, Suede and cordupoy are favorites for this part of the habit, and they are made more practical by rein. forcements of leather for saddle protection. But it is pot alone In the babit itself that care must be expended in the cholce--accessories are of the utmost importance. Just as the wrong choice of a detail may completely ruin a costume, so can an incorrect chofce ruin a habit that is, in itself, perfect. Hat, boots, shirt, tie and gloves must complete a harmony so far 8s color is concerned, and they must also be correct. With an Oxford gray habit the tie, beit, hat and boots may .match--black or gray an excellent choice. Many times, with a black habit, the boots are black, but the other three ac- cessories will match. Practically gall habit details are shown in either black, gray, tan or brown. Ties are soft, of silk, crepe or popgee, and they are to be had in either four-in-hand or Windsor styles, the latter more formal. They are guiet in pattern and do pot form a sharp contrast. Pins are fin appropriate designs--stirs rups, whips, a dog's or horse's head or hunting scenes on enamel, under glass. Gloves are either the two-button type or the slip-on, with outer seam stitching, but they are supple and comfortable. familiar models. One and two- strap models are popular, and many of the new shoes are cut down on the sides to the sole of the model. Not a good choice for the plump foot, for it will spread an unshapely ugliness with wearing. The higher cut shoe is a better type. There are many things to be considered in the buying of foot- wear for an ensemble, and it very often happens that good judgment is mot used in either line or color. One of the reasons for this may be termed the small foot complex --peyery woman would be a Cin- derella! The line of the shoe has yg te do with appearance of the color has an equal the result, for it har- or it does not. gery Msht stocking and a can be disastrous-- Af the shoe is an Oxford. dnstances a black shoe re- Apparent size, if it is worn 2 white or a lght-hued cos- it merely calls attention to ear should belong. mot costume of which it is fthe- wearer. which should be comfortas smart. HEIR 0 iif & 8