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Modern Influences Combat Those of Tradi- tion -- But Satin and Lace Have, As Yel, Met No Worthy Rival. E have come to think of June as the month of wed- dings, but it is, by no means a monopolist, and the June bride learns much from the post-Easter smart weddings. Whether her own wedding is to be # large and formal one, or a small- errand less pretentious affair, she #s keenly interested in her. own gown and the frocks of her at- tendants. The choice of these dresses 18 an important and ali- absorbing affair, It has taken us years to break the links of the chain of tradition that bound the bride for centuries, shd while we can safely say that the chain has been broken, its links He in plain sight for us to see. But the very fact that they no longer bind makes them far more interesti we pick them up and treasure em; knowing that we may, at will, toss them away again. It is an age of freedom--even In wedding attire, Not only the bridal gown, but the frocks of the attendants must be considered, and in planning the setting for the bride many other things must also be considered. Shall it be in a single color or in Jewel, rainbow, flower colorings? Shall the contrast between the probable white of the bride, ang the attire of the attendants, be well defined or subtle? What the fabric, lines, vell, and so on and on? Tradition Effects The Fabric , For ages past, the bride has Worn satin, old lace and pearls. Today it is guite as much the cor- rect thing to wear satin, lace--old, if she possesses ity--and pearls as it was 8 hundred years ago. Its use may mot be the same, and the quality of the satin has changed for the better, but the . funda- mental idea is the same. Nor does this mean that the final costume is other than ultra-modern, if the bride so wishes. All through the weeks that fol- low Easter weddings abound. And each wedding, staged carefully, is different, affording much food for thought in the minds of June brides-to-be. There have been pre- cedents set, the smartest of the many smart ideas have been sep- arated from those less smart, and the task of many a prospective bride has been materially light- ened. A brief resume of possibili- ties follows: For the bride herself, it is a question, not only of material, but of lines and the general styling-- train or mot? Long sleeve or mot, A voluminous or a mere wisp of'a veil? Amd what shall the effect be ~--omne of stateliness or of youthful charm? Shall the final arrange- ment call for lilles, for orange blossoms or for one of the gayer bridal! bouquets? After all, it is very Mke setting a stage--a wed- ding. Satin The Preferred Material it one can use the post-Easter weddings. many of them notable society events in the smart New York set, as a criterion, then satin is the favorite fabric. And satin is, you will remember, the fabric of tradition, But it is not the stiff, heavy textile of other centuries; instead, it is the pliable, supple stuff that does anything that the designer asks of it. And design- ers, this season, are making many demands upon the fabrics with which they play. ' When there is old lace in the family, and oftentimes when thers is not, this lovely stuff is .com- bined with the satin. Tulle is ap- proved, however, and sometimes there is tulle and satin and lace, Many times the vell is of tulle-- it is an adaptable 'stuff, sometimes it is of lace and tulle, and for the woman with an unlimited budget, there is the vell made wholly of lace. Lines vary, from the sheath-like gown, with long sleeves, and, oc- casionally, a high neckline, to the bouffant frock that is to be had in many forms. Modern usage per- mits the sleeveless frock, if desired, and it is, at times much more sat- isfactory. The gown Is, as a rule, long, even the bouffant model dip- ping deeply in back and reaching an appreciable length in front. Bhort skirts are, however, permis- sible. The Setting For The Bride The beauty of the bridal cos- tume is enhanced by the grouped maids around the bride. And ideas concerning their gdwns vary wide- ly. There is the contrast of the bride in a mediseyal frock of satin, a bride who carries long-stemmed lilies and is veiled voluptuously, and the matron and maids of honop in bouffant frocks. Or the bride may wear the same type of frock as her attendants, save color and the usual veil. Taffeta and tulle are preferred fabrics for the honor maids, and it is customary to make them a symphony in color. The pastels, perhaps, or the mich-liked flower or jewel tones, are approved, and at times the maids are gowned in the same color, a matron of honor providing a note of coptrast. One may never forget that the attend- ants are the frame that makes more lovely a beautiful picture. Every detail plays a part in this setting, including even the bouquets, the hats and the shoes and hosiery of the bride. At a recent wedding the maid of honor wore a frock of turquoise green taffeta, while the other maids wore peach-coiored taffeta. Shoes and hosiery matched the frocks, the hats were of natural horsehair banded with green leaves and the bouquets were of snap- dragons, delphinium and daisies. Taffeta Not The Only Choice Sometimes the frocks of the maids are in a distinctly lighter vein--chiffon, met, point @'esprit. A bride of the month, clad in satin and real lace, wore a vell that was fashioned in cap-like simplicity, with a nun-like strap beneath the chin. - The notable thing, and eo most modern idea, was a train of peach colored satin that fell from the waist. Her flowers were long- stemmed calla lilies. Her maid of honor wore a robe de style of white point d'esprit, | with a huge bustle bow of green in | the back, and her hat was of white with a green bow. Her flowers were | lilies of the valley. The malds wore frocks In similar style, but they | were of green point d'esprit, and their large green . hats were trimmed with shaded green leaves. | They carried yellow calla lilies an interesting touch of contrasti color. Another Very Modern Touch One bride, whose gown was white satin, wore a jacket of] Georgette, long sleeved, over it. | This was in keeping with the mod- | ern scheme of jacket and frock. | While her veil was held In place by orange blossoms, her bouquet | did not repeat the flower, but was, | instead, orchids and lilies of the | valley. Another bride, in satin, | rose point and tulle, chose gar denias with valley lilies--the latter | a favorite wedding flower, Sheer hosiery and satin slippers, | the ' latter frequently unadorned, are approved, also a noticeable de- parture from jewelry. There may | be a string of pearls, or some orna- ment that is an heirloom, or a| of | gift from the groom, but simplicity | and elegance are the characteris- tics most desired, Attention must be glven the veil, or mar the entire costume, the wearer. ee I New idea in handbags, designed for the street or for the sports costume, has made its appearance The material is pebble calfskin, the | frames are of galuchat shell in a | colo that matches the bag, and the bag has a yoke! red, bright blue, green. which will make | it | should be individually draped 57 Colors are high-- | LINENS, LACES AND ---- HE bride has much to think of, and much to plan, espe- cially if she is furnishing a home. Before her eyes are | spread the offerings of dyers, | weavers, designers and artists in! line and color, from these offerings | she must choose for her own pur- poses and to meet her own finan- cial limitations. "It may be that she will have to wait for the lux- uries, but necessities, these days, are mot - wholly lacking In this Quality. One may only touch upon the possibilities in linens, and in the process it is well to make mention of the unusual, rather than the usual thing. We know and expect damasks and linens, we understand | that practical needs must be met-- table and bed linen, towels of various sorts, the smaller pieces that are, in their way, quite as im- perative as the larger ones. And the money outlay is. we assume, | limited. One thing that must be Eo in mind is the undeniable fact that color has entered the linen field -- tp stay, we imagine. It is a logical result of color in the kitchep and | in every room in the house--| modern furnishmengs incline to life | 'ant as the white, and, and gayety., There are breakfast nooks. and rooms, and while we may not forget the dignified sim- plicity of snowy linen, we may not bg insensible to the lure of color. The woman with a breakfast room, made gay with cretonnes or! chintz, will repeat some one or more of its colors in heg linens. The furniture may decide the color, or there may be a demand for contrast, when the furniture, walls and hangings are plain. One's needs are met in many ways, for colored linens are quite as abund- let us say, | a deal more cheerful, for ordinary | purposes. Color has extended to bed linens, | and it is now possible to select | colored sheets, or white sheets with colored borders, carrying out | the calor scheme of the room. Bed coverings as chosen to harmonize, and the effect is delightful. Col-| ored bed linens are only a trifle | more expensive than the all-white, and they are guaranteed not to fade, which is a point one must make sure of, if she chooses them. The old-time hope chest, a treas- | ure chest of hand embroideries, is | a thing of the past. Some embroid- | ery is imperative, for the bride é LINGER loves the personal touch of initial or monogram, but the hours that the brides-to-be of the past put into doilies and sets of various sorts are mow spent otherwise. There has been a gradual trend away from these pieces, as a result, per- haps, of the re-discovery of lace as a factor in fashion. There ie a decided liking for the various types of filet lace, 'which make effective, and comparatively inexpensive, incidental pieces. Scarfs in varying lengths, doilies in many shapes and sizes, antimacassars and pillow covers, all are to be had in Belgian and the other trade filets. | And there is no doubt that they lend an air to one's old mahogany --or new, to walnut and the usual | dark woods. The lingerie for the trousseau is | always a most important selection ! --one sees garments that are so intriguing, yet are impractical in quite the same proportion. Fine laces and chiffons lure one into financial indiscretions, and do not | sive "good wear" when acquired. | There are many practical fabrics | and styles, the frillles may be one's [ apecial "best." yet they should mever he considered every day. Garments of batiste and Mnen, the product of France, !and Porto Rico, Belgium | Bood, old-fashioned way, and thelr i dainty embroideries, inserts and | bandings, the latter two in color on white, make them charming bits to own. necessary garments may be bad in this wholly practical type of lingerie. Glove silk has a rivaj} fn gar- | ments of the new rayon fabrics, erly cared for, and are pensive than silk. Both of these materials - are splendid for and may have difficuity in locating a laundry. rinsed out and require mo ironing --one will get much less service | from these fabrics if an fron is | used on them. POPULARITY OF THE BLOUSE | It isn't that there's no getting away from the ensemble, but rather that no one is trying to do it! And | one of the direct results of the popularity of this theme is the | popularity of the blouse, which | itakes om new colors, decoration | and appears in mew materials to keep pace with the demand. They | are to be had in all lengths pos-) sible for the various needs they , must meet--tailored, semi-formal and formal. The more feminine generaily recognized as "tailored." are used--chiffon, lace and Georg- | etite the most popular. | give excellent | | service. They are washable in the | Gowns, chemises and all the | which give excellent wear, if prop- | less ex- the | traveler, who must conserve space | They are very easily! fabrics, as well as those that are | | Smart Luggage "ATION time is travel time, ool that means luggage. If circumstances have kept you close at home, for several sea- ons, then yéu are due for a sur- prise when you come to select new | prise and cases for your summer | holiday. You are, perhaps, con- | templating a new trunk, and will, probably, surprise yourself with | something in- itg stead. This, if | vou are planning to really travel | and not stay in one place. The new, smart. pieces are small, light of weight, and every bit of space is accounted for, so that they hold an unbelievable amount of stuff. It is claimed for one of the new suitcases that it will held | several weeks supply of clothing, this the result of novel tray ar- rangements. | | propriately | case, {and overnight case, Some of the cases open at an angle, so that the top stands up, and the equipment consists of bars holding 'several hangers. In the f opposite half of the case there is a convenient tray arrangement, there are side pockets that will hold many things, and straps abound, 80 that the various compartments, once packed, will stay that way. The hat box is no longer a res ceptacle for headwear only, In its original form it was designed for hats, and later the side pockets held veils and gloves and the small things that could be stowed con- veniently away ih them. Now the hat box carries quite as much as can be crowded into a suitcase, and in some instances affords handier packing. The shape has something to do with this, and the arrangement. A wardrobe hat box, if skilfully packed, will hold elght or tem dresses, several complete sets of lingerie, two hats, two pairs of shoes, toilet articles and a variety of small things. Just what is ex- pected of 'the 'mew luggage is proven by an overnight case that has room for two dresses in its cover, even though the case is only fourteen inches long. One really has to see, to believe these marvel pleces of luggage. With the ensemble idea control- ling all fashion, it is not strange that luggage feels the influence of this theme. One finds all sorts of combinations--hat box, suitcase two of the three, or a small trunk that forms an ensemble with the others, One new case--Iit has been ap- named a "treasure" quite as much for its own | self as for its content--has a top i mirror. compartment that is a complete dressing table, even to a sizable Below this compartment there is space for the other neces- saries of the journey. The fittings make it a really luxurious affair, and its lining is silk moire, Ths case itself is fashioned of black cobra graim cowhide. One plece of luggage, which is neither a trunk or a suitcase, goes by the riame of "Wardrolette." It is not much larger than a suitcase, yet it has hangers exactly like those in a wardrobe trunk. Then there is a closed tray that takes care of the accessories to complete the costume that the dresses begin, It is made of fiber, its corners are reinforced with brass and the lin- ing of the case*is washable. The experienced traveler is never without her "roll," which is neither a bag or a case, but a most con- venient piece of luggage. It is made of a variety of materials, all of them waterproofed, and some of them have the mechanical zip- per fastening. All of them--at least, those that are worth while-- have a lock Leather is always practical, ! plaided materials have an air of smartness that leather does not. n THE PICTURES wm Youth lends to satin and jace an air of beauty. The period e j= every satin. lace finishes the bodice, in wedding gowns, and this | model combines all-over lace and floumcimg with the msmal Rufiles of the lace edge the full skirt, and a yoke of the (2) A bride with her maids--in formal wedding array. beauty of réal lace cannot be surpassed, that the pattern is picked out in pearl beads. frocks of the maids are in direct houette of the stately bride. (3) When tradition insists upon satin and pearis--this frock! There is something of the mediseval in the tight bodice, tight, sleeves, lowered walstiine and full, wide skirt. Tulle is used for the rufes that finish the sleeves and edge the skirt, It also fashions the weil. (4) Lace motifs, edged with bead embroideries provide a ming. The sleeveless frock fis approved for even ak formal affairs, and much the this of frocks. PY is per Note the dipped hemline, the pamnier ail J Jace; and the old-f; waistline. (5) A bride is only as charming thé same purpose in the costume mar the entire ofiect. * should form of cap, « 2 4 {i i {3 i : 2 : £ 2 E : jt as be , i ] 4 Te re, i i i : J (6) One is impressed by the youthiul simplicity The bodice of satin boasts a sheer lace series Of four wide rufiles, that dip deeply in back, suggesting | forward, upwand movement. Orange blossoms give an elective and unusual decorative tonch. i