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72 mn Into the Frock for This Memorable Event Go Many Happy Dreams -- Circumstances Effect Its Type. silhouette as a basis for all fashion, that we feel that there must be an expression of it, The straight line frock takes on an appearance of fullness when ruffles, flounces or tiers are applied, materials are of a sort that make these details a pleasant possibility, CHOOLS all over the country, from Grammar grades to' Col- lege classes, are planning the event of events--Graduatiop! I'he youngster on her way to High School gives quite as much thought ~--perhaps more, for. it is her first graduation--to her frock as does the senior in cap apd gown, plan- ning her third, And circumstances and rules have much to do with what will be worn, rules vary with the school itself, Because there Is every oppor- tunity for heart-break in the line- wp of models that may appear on the eventful day, since money can buy that luxurious beauty that arouses envy, many schools limit expenditures to a certain sum, thus assuring harmony among those most concerned. And in some in- stitutions of learning the dress ftself is made in the classroom, yet others insist on a uniform--very pften this is made in sewing class. There is much to be sald In favor of some regulation concern» ing the frocks for graduation day. They do not know it, but girls are effected very early in their lives by the psychology of clothes, although they reach maturity before they stop to analyze causes and effects; indeed, they may never do so. No 'rule is more important than the one that assures happiness to youth on a real "day of days." Beginning With The Uniform For many years the schools that insisted upon the graduates wear- ing identical dresses kept to the middy suit, and it was, moye often than not, of linen or Indian head. But the real sports idea was not, at that time, as important in fash- fon as it is today, they knew little of the possibilities that this mode holds. Therefore, the uniform of the class that graduates in 1928 can be a very individual thing. There are so many smart little sports models, many of them very easily made, even by the #mateur, and when pleated skirts are so much in the mode, there is little to accomplish outside the jumper, for the pleating is machine done. And when there fis no restriction as to the model, only in the amount expended, there can be an interesting variety,. also much more of individuality, which is important, * Materials for dresses of this type should be of the more practical sort--the silks and crepes proving satisfactory. A white sports dress carried out In crepe de chine can | be dyed, later in the season, serv- ing its owner in one of the pastel shades; later still, it will serve as 'a practical frock, if it is re-dyed fn ome of the darker colors. Georgette is another material that is in bigh favor. iL The Simpler Type Of Frock t When there is an understanding among the graduates that the type of the dress worn is to be simple, there is a real choice, since general fashions stress the importance of | that the theme of simplicity. there is mo understanding. When Georgette is, probably, the best loved of all fabrics for this pur- pose, In a fine quality it has every appearance of chiffon, and the de- signer cah do practically anything at all with it, Tts softness is inex- pressibly becoming to the slender, girlish figure, and it takes kindly to smocking, shirring and any type of manipulation that would, in a heavier material, result in an un- becoming bulkiness. Trimmings Are Far From Elaborate Even when trimmings were of the utmost importance in the mode, youth did not need them, But in the fashlon scheme of today ap- plied trimmings arg of the simplest sort, and designers depend upon rides manipulation of the fabric for effect, Bands and tucks and fagot- ting and" hemstitchery, pleats and ruffles and tiers and flounces, these are concerned with the maferial of the frock itself, nothing else, There is really nothing lovelier, and nothing more truly in the spirit of the times, than the wide skirt, circular cut, that falls in graceful folds. - Sometimes it is trimmed with ruffies of narrow lace, set at varying intervals, depending some- what upon the desire, for elaborate- ness. The more lace, the greater the distance between simplicity and ornateness, and the former is really the most desirable. Some of us remember the muslin dresses that were the sum and substance of charm in earlier graduation days. And we To AB = ! service. One of these is beaver land another is Alaska seal, for a | long time practically off the mar- Zz, Sp 2 ber the'amount of fine hand work that went into them---especially models that were ruffled, and every ruffle edged with narrow lace. Today we have the ruffled Georgette frock--and the flounced and. the tiered -- the applied ruffles or flounces or tiers edged with ner- row, filmy lace. When Two Frocks Are Necessary No matter what the procedure during graduation week, the Gram- mar or High school graduate will hardly need more than the ome frock. But in some of the pri- vate schools and in most of the colleges, two frocks are imperative. The actual ceremonies of the day, when diplomas are given out, may demand a simple- dress, the eve- ning reception and dance will be a | truly glorious affair, requiring more formal wear. | The college girl will receive her | @iploma clad in cap and gown, in | all probability. The dress worm | beneath it will be a sports model, lor at least an iAformal type. If | she is to remove the gown later In the day, she may wish it to be ultra smart, but she will. under Imo circumstances choose anything hints: of formality. That | charactevistic can be reserved for there [the functions thet follow fin the can be some very delightful effects | evening. achieved, verging on sophistication, | The More Formal Type Of Dress yet mot out of keeping with the! Evening wear is breath-taking in spirit of the occasion, or of thelits beauty. and this is a direct re- girls who wear them. | suit of materials, colors and lines. The Grammar schoel graduate | We assume that the dress for and the High school senior may | graduation itself will be of white, both yield to the lure of ruffles. | although some few schools permit We fear so much of the smpleithe pastel shades. But there are / no restrictions set on the evening! frock for the formal reception and dinner, perhaps, later followed by | a dance. There seems to be something of rivalry between the straight line frock end the bouffant. The latter! is, always, the prerogative of youth, and the moires, taffetas, nets and laces used make jt doubly alluring. Lace, chiffon, net and Georgette are the favorite fabrics of the straight line model, and they trim ' Hthemselves satisfactorily. The un- even hemiipe is a feature, almost 2 necessity, of the formal evening | frock. SEEN IN THE SHOPS HE growth of the idea of using | flowers as am accessory has been so very rapid that we find it dificult to imagine fashion life | without them. They are so charm- ing. and, this present season, So unique, that they are bound to hold their popularity. A search for | something unusual would be pro- lific im results, for everything seems to have fits effect upon the new posies. Shiny poppies and violets ~they are lacquered, other pop- ples, with raggedy edges, show the coloks of the flag, there are flowers meade of calico, leather, rubber, straw and printed silk. Sometimes the oddest sort of materials are combined, as straw and calico. And one hardly believes her eyes when she sees them, but rubber flowers are used on evening frocks, | and very delightful they are, too. | ~~ | the soft pelts possess. ra - FUR FACT: ANP fAYCrES I still "put away" our furs, | really luxurious pelts of this animal when springtime comes, but ~----many of them prohibitive in that dves not énd the mat- | their price to the average woman. | know the beauty--and We all We "take |the cost--of silver fox, so glossy out" others to replace them, for | black in contrast to the silver hairs ter of the loveliness that | fur is a contributing factor to fash- | that fleck it, and the white-tipped | ion, the 'whole year through. It] taf. | ket. Mink will outwear either | raccoon or muskrat, and Persian ree = |lamb will outwear the latter, | Specify American mink when puy- ing this fur, A dressier fur, dyed muskrat is | thirty-three per cént. Therefore | | general facts as to the source and tr AR both nutria and beaver will mat when wet down, Persian lamb must be kept clean, if it is to hold its sheen. Many women complain that any fur coat is costly because of its upkeep, but the truth of the mat- ter is--they do not keep them up! Repairs and remodeling and stor- age must all be considered, but much of the repair work is made imperative by neglect of the fur itself, A fur coat is worth the attention one gives it for the sake of its appearance alone, and this same attention will lessen repair bills, It should be hung up as care- fully as any coat or frock, and the hanger should fit the coat, the coat | should never be stretched over the | hanger. It should then be hung in durability of furs are not amiss. | Some real knowledge is imperative, for imitations are everywhere. It depends somewhat, of course, | on the original price paid, whether |a fur is expensive or not. But | something else must be taken into | consideration. A good bit of | money can be invested in a fur coat | without its seeming costly, if the | fur has iron wearing qualities. A small sum Invested in a delicate | tear under strain. considered a good investment, but |® cool place, rather than a warm not for sports purposes, as it will | one. Never, for any purpose what- Silver muskrat | soever, should it be subjected to'a is the belly of the animal and is Strong heat, even a brief time of more fragile, golden muskrat is the | this will injure the skins irrepara- sides of the pelt, and natural| bly. There are, too, rules for the muskrat is the back, One often! care of the damp coat, sees coats that use the back and | You should shake the wet coat, sides, but the darker tones of the | but gently. Then a soft cloth 'er back, designed, of course, to be | sponge may be used to remove rain-proof, are the better buy. some of the dampness, after that You should be sure about the | it must be hung up to dry out nat. color of your fur--will it fade, or will it keep its color? Few women know that strong sunlight will You will hear it said, ffequently, | fade beaver, that kolinsky, in its that raccoon and natural muskrat | original form is an ugly yellow, are the best wearing, practical | and is, therefore, dyed. It, too, furs. But it happens that there | will fade in the sunlight. | are several skins that give better If raccoon is dyed, it will fade; : Eh at A fur is expensive in comparison, and, of course, the originally expensive delicate fur is just plain costly! | urally in some place where there is a circulation of air. The animal that originally wore the coat did not dry itself out, after a thorough wetting, in any way as crude as by a fire, and when it was the coat of a live animal it could have stood it better} E hear more and more that keeps to the same hue. The about the ensemble, the| high-heeled slipper is an evening costume and the assembling | choice, with sports things the one- thereof. We are convinced | strap and the opera are allowed, that. the chain of that costume or | but the heel should not be slender. ensemble is as strong, only, as its | For the in-between frock there Is weakest link, which may be foot-|the modified heel. Satin is really wear, jewelry, hosiery or a #an,|an evening fabric, formal in its just as truly as the frock that is! feeling. The kid slipper is the the background against which ac-| usual and the wisest choice. | cessories are set. The girl grad- This does not, of course, refer to | uate, no matter what her type of| the formal evening frock that goes | dress, must bear this prominently | out to dine, dance and receive! | in mind. Shoes appropriate to the frock it- But it is the type, of dress, as| self will be the choice. And the much as any other one thing, that | same rules that apply in general decides the matter. Accessories{ will be observed in this instance. appropriate to a sports ensemble | Hosiery may be sheer, but chiffon | will not do with the frilly frock, or | is hardly necessary with the dress | with the formal evening dress. And | that is plainly sports in its fee]- | there is less opportunity for jewelry | ing, and is, in a way, the modern | with the former than with the] version of the familiar middy suit. | latter. Yet--it is imperative that If there is one jewel that bears, | the costume be completed with ex- | unmistakably, the stamp of youth, actly everything that is peeded to! it is the pearl. Real pearls are | live up to the ensemble theme. t for the average woman or girl, We pre-suppose white footwear | but synthetic pearls are everywhere and hosiery, white fans and jewelry | accepted, some of them puzzling to (1) When a "uniform" is regulation, there's the kerchief It is the modern version of the "middy" suit, that for years wi the choice of many schools. This del coumld be made in, sewing class, by the one who is to wear it, with the possible prion of the pl d skirt, which demands 8 machine. ' Qpite as important as the frock itself are the accessories. For youth there is mothing lovelier with evening attire--and daytime as well--than pearls. There are so many types of necklaces that a b ing one can iy be found. The feath fan is a classic, but those of net and lace are popular. (3) A bit more d satin frock. When Many confuse it with pointed is used for 'trimmings, as well as! fox, which is a dyed skin, red orig- | | for fabrics, and a comstantly in-|inally, end it is then "pointed" { creasing demand for skins has | with white hairs, of the badger, brought many new pelts into this | usually. Another mistaken'impres- very active market. sion stamps "kit" fox as a baby Summer is the most economical | fox, but it is really a gray-furred time to have the fur coat repaired | fox marked with white. or altered. The new fur fashions There is a real yogue for pastel- for the winter of 1928-9 will be | colored foxes, and they are. of ready, and one can save apprecia- | course, dyed. In the original form bly by having the work done dur- | they are white or they may be red ing the dull season. For summer | fox, bleached, then dyed. The red furs do not take the form of coats] fox is a very important fashion in | andy wraps, they incline to the" fur itself, lovely for women of a cer- scarf, an occasional coat, and the | tain coloring, it is usublly the orig- many trimming uses that design- | inal of the many brown foxes. Fox ers have found for them. | is flattering, but it must be worn The tailleur demands a scarf of | correctly to be genuinely effective. | some sort--either the ubiquitous | Large women beware! fox or. a sable or squirrel, as type | Our interest during the summer and pocket-book permit. Probably | season does mot, necessarily, apply | the most fashionable fur is the fox, | to summer furs only. Many women the moment, and some of the | plan the purchase of their mext offerings would mot be recognized | winter's fur coat during the sum- as the skins of their kind by even | mer fur sales that assure them a the craftiest fox. 'There are some |saving of from twenty-five to at (5) The simplest frock fis often the most eflective. the material; lace and ribbons givé the decorative touch. The TS cormLETE te COSTUME | anyone but an expert. For the really girlish girl, slender of form, with a slender neck, the short, round pearl necklace, made of graduated pearls is far and away the most appropriate choice. But there are pearl necklaces for every type, and to meet every whim of even so whimsical 4 thing as girlhood. And if there is to be a bracelet, it, too, may be made of pearls. A bracelet made of several strands of small pearls is charming and correct. It should be under- stood that rhinestones and crystals are not a daytime choice, nor are they as appropriate to the needs of youth as the soft, creamy pearl, The fan really belongs to ever ning, although it is - sometimes worn of an afternoon. In the cop- tume that it built 2leng sports lines the fan has no place. The more dressy type permits a fan, the evening frock, in a way, de- mands it. Fans of lace, pet and sheer materials are appropriate to the simple dress, the feather fan fis more sophisticated, more mature, it complements the frock that pos- sesses formality. Incilientally, one may mention the steadily increasing prominence of brilliants and crystals in costume jewelry mode, likewise vogue of color. It is getting ver chains, and this is good for the woman with a short