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NTUELALELETS JACAL 7 Ire, RCAC FOLLY, 2 fr An Expression of Current Themes De- pends On Detail s -- The Future | of Our Fashions Interests, ERHAPS we are not quite as much concerned with the why -0f.our fashions as we are with the fashions themselves, but when we have found something that we really like, we fear, lest ,-We lose it. So gencrally attractive are the new spring models that it seems practically impossible to bet- ter them, it Is not, therefore strange that there is apprehension Jest seasons come lose, rather than gain, in charm. The wonderful variety that are enjoying is very like bright sunshine after days of rain, it is a reaction, so to speak, from a period | of drabness that was the logical result of existing circumstances. A period of war Is bound to make an Impress upon what we wear, and with women doing the work of men in many countries, the influ- ence of the masculine was appar- ent in every article of our ward- robe. But the period that will live in history as one characterized by mannishness was, in a way, just a' detour, made necessary by con- struction work, yet leading, inevit- ably, back to the broad highway. ! There are few symptoms, if any, that would lead us to suspect that we shall be called upon to again leave that highway for paths less pleasant. We can again wear fem- inine things and glory in their beauty. The Ensemble Is A Perfect Thing From foundation garment to the last little accessory, nothing is left ndone to achieve perfection. Not | nly the fabrics of the garments themselves, but the materials of all the costume details are carefully chosen for their appropriateness to the purpose. I.et nothing or no one convince you that the purchase | of a poor material is economy, a | bargain is a bargain only when ex- | cellent materials and workmanship | are predominating features. There are times when sight of this truth, excusing an unwise purchase with the theory! that the garment or accessory will be only passing fad. To the woman with a limited budget the fad should be taboo, it does pass, and asually before one has received peal service from it. Conservative buying excludes everything but fine fabrics, good lines and all the de- tails that assure perfection of finish. One is impressed, when buying, this season, with the rare beauty of weave in every material. We have become accustomed to supple fabrics for our semi-formal and formal things but woolens hold an element of surprise.® Even the tweeds and novelty wools are as nsable and aflaptable as the reps and poplins, we can readily under- stand how they happen to be used | for the town suit as well as for sports. The Use Of Fabrics Is Extended | It is interesting to note how many of the smartest models that | we see are made wholly of the "goods" itself. There may be a beautiful buckle or ornament, even a flower or two, but the real to we we lose ) reason for the beauty of the dress | line, creeping upward, when we are | wrong jewelry, or coat is the manipulation of the { not' looking. is marked. and there | bag, the wrong gloves ie much use of pin-tucking. fagot- | fabric of which it is made. One. finds immediate proof of this as- | , | sleeveless jacket uses two fabrics, ; bodice | than fabric would be fatal, sertion In the models grouped above, for they owe their charm to their material. The chiffon frock with its many details effects a combination with lace, one of the season's approved fabrics. Plain crepe and printed make the model In two-plece ef- fect, thé printed frock with caped, no one of the three find a need for any elaboration other than that supplied by the material. The ensemble and the tiered frock enlist the aid of ornamental buckles. It is in the manipulation of | fabrics and colors that designers | | find their greatest delight. A buckle may be necessary to fasten a belt, buttons may be needed to fasten | coat or frock, but there is, usually, a need for them, when they are used Many of the narrow belts te, and the scarf collar is a fav- orite, which leads to the inevitable | conclusion that bows are still in high favor in the new mode. Going More And More Into Detail Every last thing about a model | rom SALL/CS fo | AL IYI Y 7HHLARLS Lo AL7 YY! ALOHERS FL SETWELD TV VEOL (CE, THE SOR G STOLE Is given due consideration, nothing |, escapes the eye of the designer. | Attention jis directed toward the neckline and the sleeve edge, the waistline and thé hemline and the comes in for elaboration. this with anything other | hand- work and contrasting patterns, weaves and colors achleve smart- ness without over elaboration. Again--our pictured models! The | formal afternoon frock of patterned | chiffon, with a touch of black in its design, accents that black with | a contrasting fabric, and lace! seemed the wisest cholce. The skirt, a really intricate affair, em- phasizes its lines with the black, it edges the shoulder bow and the | wristline, the model, without it, would be ordinary and wholly without the necessary distinction. The two-plece model, with its pleated skirt in solid color, and its bodice in print, is an excellent presentation of the two fabric theme. The tiered model would be far less effective "trimmed," and the same holds true of the sleeve- less jacket ensemble. The natural To do kasha of the costume suit is en- | hanced by the plain fabric of the | blouse, for the figure of the pattern is done in black. A Wide Diversity Of Themes There are so many new themes offered in this season's mode that it is practically impossible to enumerate them, but it is possible to use several of them in a single model to the advantage of that model. most important are the flounce, tier, drape and circular line, ap- plied to skirts, the uneven hemline, dipping in back or at the sides. and the cape or the bolero on the bodice. Evening models make much of | | the bouffant silhouette and what is | | termed the * at the side, also the bustle theme. Then attention is directed toward the lingerie neckline that presents such a sharp contrast to the untrimmed neckline of the mannish period.. The waist- "pout" ting and handwork in general Among these themes the | | happens, "027 AND FYE CTF TEIPALS, ) LO7&50y& TT PTL) OX. RAPE A SEL TLOH FEAT THLE" TV ERED ITH VRT AYE | YE EST HES TLS YE FAL LT TIRE NTH ICS OF LATO, APE THE TS TRT ZS TH 3 model. Evening hats shown---clgse treme are EACH IY ITS PROPER PLACE OME of the combinations ef-| doing it, the conservative fected, in an effort to attain a | rather than the unusual, alluring a harmonious ensemble result, { though the latter may be, must be | are sartorial tragedies. This | chosen for the special purpose. {and for sports and town wear the even when the individual| There general rules that | units are quite the loveliest of | must be followed in the selection thelr type, the cause of the tragedy | of ¢ very accessory from the hat to lies in the fact that they are not | the These rules we will, the correct type. And there is no | briefly, review, referring type excuse for mistakes of 'this sort, without consideration of | for accessory designers have kept | color, except when im- pace with the originators of our | perative Headwear and footwear | coats, suits and frocks. | are always the first consideration, | Quite as glaring an error as the | and after these come the minor wearing of a plcture hat aith Bae tails of the costume--far more tailored suit or the use of high- | important than many consider heeled shges with a tennis frog k | th cm. may be brought about by the | For sports and tailored things-- Ahe wrong hand- {the small hat, for afternoon affairs Yet, ther A, r all or the picture hat, | expenditures must kept ewhat upon the de- 'to a minimum. there are i disunction, but the demand thing, hote} type. For all occasions the simple hat, are or a simple pin, hats possess | especially the close helanets that are popular at the moment. The status of the veil is hardly settled, as yet; will not remain with enough to demand a aithough efforts in its apparent. Flower trimmed eS. to fabrig or us- long settlement, | woman is the practical, low-heeled type, for the spectator a more tai- lored shoe, with heels fairly high, Is permissible For tailored ap- parel the Oxford and the one-strap and the ability of ! slip pper and shoes when | ¢ he dow: S01 t low way , for evening hats is not very great, | except for the woman who is din- | ing out in some public place of the | model that is satisfied with a band ! a 'sort of formality, ! little flower | perhaps it | the individual to wear the -- are the correct thing, and being | fashion graciously little affairs of ex- | permits us to wear heels--not too high, of course, but fairly The formal after- noon costume calls for dressier footwear, { Evening brings beautiful slipper of delicate ma- terial, graceful lines, and heels as | high as the wearer can comfortably | wear. In the problem of footwear materials play a part, mistakes that are very glaring not uncom- mon. Satin, for instanee, is not. a street fabric, but belongs to after- noon and evening. Reptilian leath- ers are hardly formal enough, they | are better in sports and tailored | SO. out the really . shoes. behalf are | Footwear for the active sports- | of this general | Handbags are so often matched to footwear that a parallel can be drawn. With leather shoes, leather | handbags, with satin moire or | velvet or suede shoes, the same | materials and when it evening, small envelopes or pouch hags brilliants and pearls will link this accessory to footwear by or of { | rect, | ders. CA FEY 7/3 S/F EC ETTS TV ~onr OAV TLI7E WEAR, way of buckles, straps and heels. Be sure that your footwear is cor- then ally the' handbag with it. Women have gone simply mad over the new hrilliant and gold jewelry, and it is probably respons- ible for more mistakes in the en- semble. than any other one thing. Imagine a cloth frock In tailored effect having as an accessory a gorgeous brilliant necklace! Yet this has happened. Brilllants, rhinestones and crystals are not only correct, but est, beneath artificial light, aga the back- ground of an evening frock That brilli worn froc rgette, med ant of ffon same with a or with lace and the frock k of chi a Gen | trim be in ns | | necklace, | brilliant | r: AA CURED AFIT 7 CLOZH Fr 7PH ELT ZY n CN STURL ENVTLE/TELE - ornament, would have been perfec There are jewels enough and igh that are appropriate without stealing the evening mode. dagtime, odd wed jewels the fants for the afte chiffon. tion | pleces enot | for daytim { the beaut e wear of Gold for pleces ith cole { same, colored } ernoon frock of 0 REE SEEN IN THE SHOPS NE would know that spring is here by a su v of the hosiery displayed in the smart shpps. The brief season of darker tones | has passed and lighter tones are offered as a complement to the new frocks and ensembles, Probably there is no col as popular as beige, for some shade of it will harmonize with practically every- thing. Then there are many soft grays, and the new combination of gray and beige known as grege-- another neutral color. There are also, and browns, ve smart colors. In the novelty embroidered stock- French examples of the mesh hosiery. the choice for colors for this opalescent rve w class h certaln we ha the motif at the knee, s and a few der clock and Chiffon is alv ey purpose ve Bx wear, and mn enin are the ASSEMBLING A COMDLETE COSTUME material for e days, of T is nat lack of the purpose, thes rather a n choose, and the heart of the thrifty woman who is an artist in selection. But | she makes no,choice until she has | planned her entire wardrobe and reduced its parts to their lowest terms. coat and frock, each costume de- | tail, must play many parts in the scheme of things. The more limited her budget, the greater care she must exercise, for | the small things of. fashion run into mbney' with a definite guestio the result warms scheme in mind she can make one | article serve several needs, achiev- ing variety by clever harmonies | and interchanges of the same type of thing. But certain rules must be borne in mind, for lines, as well | as colors, write a story, the plot of that story is individual. > A concrete example of what one | ensemble theme can be made to accomplish will be practical. | may be, for this purpose, "town" type that is the practical costume for daytime wear, prob- ably more women have use for this ne of suit than for any other. The original purchase is a frock of | printed crepe in two-piece effect, the colors mavy, a brighter blue, | jade green and black, beige background. The pattern of the crepe is some- what indeterminate, so that acces- | sories in any one of the colors in | the design will accent that particu- lar color. The pleated skirt is banded around the bottom navy blue, piped, at the top with the jade green As will be seen later, this band is important, coat of the ensemble is navy, straight of line, with raglan shoul- | It is lined with the print. As a part of this scheme another two-piece dress planned, time of. navy blue is banding. the jumper there is a band similar | the skirt, and the! jade green piping is used at the. to the one on neckline and on the sleeve cuffs. comes to |The skirt is pleated, but untrimmed. | event ng ensem Now consider the possibilities of | combination in these garments but | what to | For she realizes that each | of _ i against a | with | The | { Accessories Around the bottom of | every costume. | and buc Either ers may be one of the two details will link Remains the prob- If one outfit yur costumes, blue choice for even shoes--with ige hosiery should be a conservative ' four froc one worn | skirts, each ol either ar the to each of is to serve a would be the handbag and the latter | worn { choice--Db If two possible, lem accessories. 1c wiser hat he ays ensembles are would be the the fact that it is som 1 1 in its "bi ing first y smart this the print when the beige second ¢ 0 coloring om choice, a season. TI t lu green | are *po. ven main articles are in blue or beige. Cornflower: smart bouton. nlere for the lapel of the coat. It is possible to work any costume type ip the same way, an excellent idea for a foundation te ! view the frock in the light of one ACCCSSOry ble Especially is after noon and evening the things are true to type. imperative, but the hard wear street or the e or of the are a out | ensemt | this true of attire, for really costly, Delicate colors a 'they do not recei that is given sports costume. Black, always 'smart, can be the practical for afternoon at- tire, even wh it is formal, it per=- mits of quite gay frocks, this sub- But you, must be- ware of. bla footwear lest it pro- vide startling a contrast and attract attention to the feet. The black hat--it is time for the *"pic- ture" model very soon--is always effective an the handbag can match the headwear. in any odd shade, chosen to.complement a frock that when e the | duing accent too i d this | mses that tome, are not a wise in- crepe in the | vestment same shade as the coat and skirt! mits an unless one's budget per- accessory ensemble for One fan will be sufficient for several evening cos- tumes if its coloring is neutral-- again black is a wise choice. The brilliant handbag is good with any ble, so is the lace brilliant straps. heels can serve several types and kles shaw! With the coat as a background. ! of footwear.