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She lEFIERL $5 Nas LEAR PASIAN RETEST MARS IRA £7 @ Lop PERLE RES ETS FRR rye; TRE ° The BIEL or T Pre-War Fashions Make a Stron for Popularity -- Formal Frocks Serve As Try-Out Models. T is a time of mid-season show- ings, though we are somewhat at sed as to the name of the season, fér many of the models nint strongly of fall," Especially is this' so when it comes to evening wear, for members of the initiate know that it is with this group that designe: make experimenta- tions, It was rom this group that we got the fir. hint of the longer skirt and the .igher waistline, it will bear a deal of watching. We have accepted the fact that the formal and the feminine notes make the harmony that is every- where apparent in fashion, It is a question, in many minds, just how far this newest trend will travel before it ends, if evening things are any indlcation--and they are ~--the idea is making steady prog- ress. Both formality and femin- inity exist in the extremely lov: and unusually flattering things tha. are seen in the latest showings. Not only do wé find character- istics that effect general fashions, but ,some that show evidences of entirely changing the formal eve- ning mode. Yet we are pleased to note that there Is quite as much variety as there has ever been, and, in a way, this is imperative, if we are to continue Individualistic in our costuming. The dinner hour is kaleiodoscopie--color, fabrics and jewelry all combine to make it so, Two Definite Types Exist Complete, even to the tiniest de- tail, are the two very different ex- pressions of the evening mode that exist at the present time. They differ in a material, as well as a detailed way, and we may, for purposes of classification, call one the matronly and the other the youthful type. At times the fabrics of the one find a place in the other," but the original division Is based on texture, weight and usability of material. There is more of formality and rather less of femininity in the model that employs a rich and heavy fabric. Grace and beauty is not lacking but the softness that is apparent in a frilled or ruffled frock does not exist, and this latter type demands delicate stuffs, as lace, chiffon, net, tulle and point d'esprit. These latter materials are, truly, in the spirit of the sum- mer season, yet they are prophetic of what winter will bring. Brilliant colors are seen but rarely, and there is a trend toward subdued colorings. Soft tones, especially the pastels, are noted, and white. 'placed well down toward the hem- During the summer | season we shall see organdy, which | vides the required length. -- WHEN bn, ---- EVENING Bid is very lovely for the bouffant frock, and in one special showing a frock of black organdy was dis- played, It was well worth atten- tion, for it was unusually effective, Moreover, it possessed thé charm | of being decidedly different. When There Is Intricacy Of Cut When taffeta, moire, brocade, satin or lame is the material, then intricacy of cM characterizes the model. One Pees the swathed hipline, draperies that ripple soft- ly, the bloused bodice, tiers or some treatment kin to these, The model is of a type that does not call for the more feminine touches, although it does not lack that quality in its final effect, One charagteristic Is seen in all models --the hemline is uneven, We are being influenced, subtly | at the moment, by a wholly differ- | ent Idea. It appears more often in evening frocks than in daytime | offerings, but we suspect that its] popularity will steadily increase. | This statement refers to the cir- | cular skirt, which is, in formal | evening wear, wreaking havoe with | the familiar bouffant skirt. Not | that the latter has disappeared, but | that it has, for the first time, a | genuine rivalh | " Above the circular skirt we see the fitted bgdice, which has more of the princesse about it than for- merly. At times it extends well | down over the hips, introducing a new silhouette to the world of fashion. Quaintness Is apparent in narrow pinked ruffies and ruchings, line, and giving added width to the skirt. No waistline at all is a feature of frocks that emphasize the princesse idea, Details Continne Important The hem edge and the waistline have attracted more attention, perhaps, than is their due, especlal- ly the former, for we are vitally interested in skirt length. And it is almost necessary to issue weekly bulletins upon the position of the hem, for it is lengthening as the season advances. Even the dip- ping line begins lower, and the effect'of this tendency is felt in the tailleur, though hardly in the sports ensemble. Many of the evening models come well down to the ankles, and the fabric of the frock itself does this. Typical of the summer sea- son, however, is the transparent hem of met, tulle, point d'esprit, or very sheer lace. There are times when the frock itself comes only to the knees, and the sheer hem pro- sees black hems on flowered chiffon | frocks, and the effect fs extremely pleasing. The accepted evening frock sleeveless, and this is not, always, the most becoming type. Fashion meets the need of the woman with | unattractive arms in several clever ways, that is, if the material is soft, fluttery ome. She offers the fichu, so arranged that its folds fall over the shoulder, there are scarfs arrangements that will do the same thing, and there is the bertha collar, or some clever ar- rangement of the ubiquitous cape. Necklines Choose To Vary There are various degrees of | formality in evening models, so there are necklines that go with them. There Is the shallow, rather high line, and the deep decolletage, | and both vary perceptibly in line. | There fs the U-shaped and the V-shaped decolletage, and there is Ope ! po better rule than the general | 53 models, including some ultra- DING OUT THE pouUN a In a general way it includes dresses and wraps, hats and shoes, and all the minor accessories for which a whimsical fashion finds use. Our activities shape it and, | accordingly, Mmit it, but careful choosing makes it a success or a| The | key word to the entire puzzle is failure, as the case may be. only a four-letter word--type! For fashion, which has become, in the past few seasons, am exceed- ingly involved and intricate thing, is made up of distinct types, each Into some wardrobes go all these types, into | some not more than two or three, with its special purpose. into others a varying number. variety. Skill in that selection assures its Four groups may be considered, | each an entjty wholly apart from the other three. Sports togs, for the active or the spectator sports- woman include sleeveless frocks, | sweaters, a coat of tweed for gen- eral purposes, an ensemble of linen or silk, and the costume de- tails to complement these gar- ments. Bathing togs and riding things may be included in this group, but they are really special- ized apparel. In the second group we place the town, travel and utility ensembles A | that are so vital an item in mearly | line, successful selection includes those' every wardrobe. -- WARDROBE HE term "wardrobe" is a most | things appropriate to the life of | details may vary, but the purpose | flexible one, for it can be | the one who makes the selection. and the theme are the same. varied to suit the individual. | In a third group go the formal daytime things that must be correctly fitted out with accessories to form a per- fect costume. ind the fourth group 'covers eveming wear with all the charming details that go with it. The average woman wishes to but smart. be, not onmly correct, This means that the individaal parts of 'her costume must be har- | mofious, and no matter how ex-| it | must combine with the others into | a unit. This does not mean lavish it does mean the right thing in the color, quisite each may be, in itself, expenditure, necessarily. But right place--type, fabric, is | And beyond everything else, Materials and | it means an effect of individuality. | ing color one of becomingness. This deter- mines both the height or depth, as well as the direction in which the line travels. Quite as attractive and alluripg as the evening dress is the summer | evening wrap, which employs fabrics suitable to the season and | to the ck it complements. Taf- feta is seen very often and it takes the hues of sparkling forming, many times, an background for a frock | When satin is the material, the pastel tones are fav-| ored, and many of the wraps are | | carried out in cape effect. There is a real vogue for the transparent velvets, not pnly for evening, but for formal daytime | wraps. There are many silhouettes | and many colors from which to | choose, the cape a real rival of the wrap. One sees moire silk used for an evening coat or cape, and j there are many imported modes ter tone. luxurious affairs that are lavishly fur-trimmed. 3ut- even the sim- plest model possesses distinction. There are so many different types | 1 | | | HANDBAGS IMPORTANT | ind so many different interpreta- | tions of each type, in the mode, | that ac | keep pace, liandbags have as-! sumed an {mportance that is un- | precedented, for fabric, color and | shape have all been effécted. | Fabrics that "match the costume are considered smart, some are trimmed with leather to lend a tailored note, and straps for handles are popular. Sometimes, when the frame is of tortoise or | composition, there fis a short] handle centered in the straps. One bag has two rings, instead of a strap, leather bags have the edges overhanded in leather, and a new idea is am outside compartment for the vanity arti a snap fastens | | it securely. Semi-precious stones decorate the various models--add- cessoi es {of undiscovered country. | ural | ture eof" Fashion <= HE material world is worthy of even the most thorough xploration, for it holds, for ho average persons, a world We as- sume certain things, and rightly, too{ and we leave countless others to obscurity. Since it is but nat- that we should seek the smartest of the many fabrics that | are smart, it is imperative that we | know avhat they are, afid what is their relation to our wardrobe. Fall will bring its quota of new things, but we are concerned with warm weather clothes, and desire to get from our chosen wardrobe | the maximum of comfort, as well smartness. are cyepes We assume that and silks and as there | satins and chiffons, along with lace and the usual wools and the cot- tons. Nor are we forgetting the | advent of rayon into the limelight | of popularity. | which of the many is most up-to- The question is-- date? : From out' of the many the few. From a host that.are permitted, | printed silk or Georgette or linen, | and there's a new interpretation of the idea. Early spring gave us the printed frock, worn under a coat in a plain material, lined with the print to match. Now we have the plain frock and the printed coat, or the coat and frock of print, or the ensemble of two materials printed in the same pattern--clever? A sleeveless frock is worn; often- times, under a printed coat--it's often carried out in linen, for there is no material smarter for real summer wear." The afternoon frock, formal in sign of some sort--that is to say, the pattern will be clean-cut. Polka dots must have special mention, for they are scen Im varied sizes, even in varied shapes, not always round. The "legal seal" dot popular, and stars are included in the polka dot group. The luncheon- i bridge-tea frock may use a flower | pattern, its figures rather large. Evening brings out the indeter- is | plaited. Players in tournaments all | over the country have sponsored | them. | For town wear there Is nothing more satisfactory, in warm weath- er, than a Georgette ensemble. True, this material is anything but new, but we are concerned with the most fashionable fabrics, re- gardless of their age. They are in black, navy, gray, beige, grege and white, and there is a frock and coat, both cut simply, but intricately, in the new manner, At times the coat is of crepe, oc- casionally of sheer velvet. The coat of the latter fabric is very smart, and velveteen is being worn--it was introduced at Palm Beach and found favor there, Then there is the ensemble that makes use of cashmere for the coat, worn with a frock of silk or seen | erepe, plain or printed. These coats | are either three-quarters or hem length, and the jacket coat is also a part of the ensemble. Whatever | the style, there is always a choice | possible. LET'S PLA H RIDGE playing has become the B cading sport of our great na- tion--statistics tell us that more people find it pleasurable than are addicted to all the other sports, in or out of doors. Books on the subject are listed in the five the radio hour | that is given over to bridge talks lis one of the most popular fea- | tures, and the business of provid- | ing prospective with | equipment is a constantly growing | one. When time hangs heavy on our hands, we make up a table of bridge, any charity is sure of money, if a benefit bridge is given, and this means that there are cer- tain formalities that must be car- ried out. It is getting to be a real problem--what, to give for prizes and when there are to be dozens of tables, the money outlay is a real consideration. Everyone de- best sellers, hostesses ! mands a novelty, the paying player its mien, will show a decided de-| | jusf a group that are ultra-smart. | minate pattern that makes use of | ssovies find jt difficult to | 4,4 thie wearing of the few will | dimmed distinguish ug from the crowd, which wears the obvious, rather than the unexpected thing.. And it happens that printed fabrics, | like the ensemble theme, are mixed up with every material choice, and | pdtterns, and the dinner and dance | they include practically all tex- and weaves, from cottons to velvéts. $ ? You can tell the time of day, {| approximately, by the print Milady is wearing. which The smali pattern, covers the background al- | most wholly, is a daytime, tailored | or sports, town material--it will do until the tea hour, if you so decree. You may scé a matinee, or be one of the gallery in a golf match, in shades of the season's { colorings. Or the Pompadour pat- | terns may be the choice, clusters Lor bouquets of flowers, best when | they are in their natural size. ox - | quisite colors characterize these | frock of chiffon shows a decided | Preference for such designs. This completes the entire day, dome in | printed form! | te | For this type nothing more China or 8! it is offered of appropriate than ntung silk, although crepe de chine and silk or cotton pique. Incidentally the neck of these frocks is e | easy, the armholes roomy | | There is a distinct flair for the nuis frock, sleeveless and tailored. | model there fis | | | | and the jan ensemble that is composed of | skirts are either circular cut or] hopes for something useful. The hostess who entertains in her home will find much virtue in real bridge furniture that can be folded away when not in use and is, at the same time, light of weight for its convenient disposal. This furniture can be had in colors or in the usual walnut and mahog- any finishes, some of it is very lovely, - with Chinese decorative Few realize the fashion impor- tance of the cottons and the various fabrics listed with them. For either town or country wear they are comfortable and appropriate, in- cluding in their variety, as they do, both sheer and heavy weaves, prints and plain cloths. Practical ly every texture has yielded to the craze for prints, and many of the sheer cottons are used for evening frocks. Dimity, voile and Georgette are instances. Novelty cottons, broadcloths, the piques and shirting madras find many yses, there are crepes in printed and plain weaves, and there are the cloths that include rayon in their woven threads. Then there are the rayons, very like the silks, but less expensive, and they find an infinite number of uses in their various presenta- tions. The smartest fabric in the cotton groap is linen, and it makes some charming ensembles, consisting of a simple, one-piece frock and a jacket or coat, Handerchief linen is well liked, also the heavier weaves, and usually the frock de- pends wholly on pleats and stiteh- ery, with the addition of buttons and pipings or bandings, for its smartness. The jacket, short or in three-quarters length, is quilted, stitched or embroidered. There seems to be special charm in white, ivory, beige and yellow, for the linen ensemble. When there is a printed design, it is done against one of these colors as a background, and there are some particularly striking patterns in red against a yellow or ivory back- ground, Prints, blocked designs and embroideries are usually done in the strong shades. A Y BRIDGE! motifs. It should be chosen to fit harmoniously into its surroundings, "Clever tallies and score pads are available--the scores that arrange play so that two people are never partners more than once during the afternoon or evening proving a success, Counters and trump in- dicators may be had, and there are some most unusual and decorative cards being offered. It is quite possible to provide a setting for the game that will add much to the pleasure of the participants. The problem of prizes may be taken to shops where 'special de- partments handle things suitable for the purpose. In some of the more up-to-date shops. they will wrap your prizes in an attractive way, and this is a real boon to the committee in charge of a large bridge where table prizes are given. There is no denying the fact that originality is desirable, but it is growing increasingly difficult to obtain, Many tea rooms cater to bridge clubs, offering the facilities of a private room for the game after lunch, d they serve tea, coffee, cakes and cigarettes--if required-- during the game. This idea fre- quently proves quite as inexpensive as entertaining at home, if one counts one's own labor. THE PICTUBES (1) Of burnt orange chiffon, wide skirt, longer than for several seasons in this charming model. The color and gold and black lace. The new past, finds expression material combination is is most effective, and the rather d with a huge bow of black velvet ribbon. (2) When a negligee approaches the evening frock group. White satin and chifion are used in this gown with its lines princesse and a flounce that dips in back, forming a train. Wide sleeves, that make wing when the arms are raised, add to the grace of this truly formal model. (3) Several shades of blue effect a color harmony. The fi is of satin fabric in the extremely lovely tome. known "marine". classic material that knows no navy with flower embroideries, Fhe hat effects lighter tomes, and is made of special season. The bag is (4) The summer frock in its most attractive guise. The but always striking alliance of black, white and red is achieved through the medium of a chiffon that shows red polka dots a white background. Black exquisite patterning, trims it. Jace, in a delicate mesh (5) Fashion turns to crochet and a smart hat results. We are never permitted to feel that the last word has been spoken in h any season's mode, this | del in black and white crochet. There's a narrow band of grosgrain ribbon and a most fetching ornament to further smarten it. (6) Blue broadcloth and summer ermine make a coat. The influence of the scar" is plainly with its unusnal collar. Jt seen in this straight line model bi fur and fabric. A really unusual note i the us" of buttons in the same pale tone as the fur, stressing the value of color (7) it is mot satin, but the contrast. pew lacguered silk. A summer e of le lines innovation. mse of the most recent fabric The skirt and hem-length coat are of the black silk. and the blouse is of cherry red moire. Note the very plain, very clever little helmet hat of velvet.