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RAZ > FTL L722Y The "Eternal Feminine" is Apparent in the New Smart Hats -- Summer Insists Upon the Drooping Brim, 8 summer advances, the large hat enters, and it appears all hours of the day, in some form or other. This does not mean that the small hat has been forced out of existence, but marks, Father, the return of the feminine theme in millinery, best expressed in a broad brim. Even the cloche widens its brim a bit, while me- dlum-brimmed shapes are every- where seen. It assures comfort, when the sun Is hot, as well as charm, We are finding that it is possible for a single detail to make a very great difference in the spirit of a frock. Materials play so many parts that there are times when the length of the skirt determines the purpose of the model, and a fem- inine frill will make over the entire aspect of a costume, Right now the hat is proving an effective me- dium In such changes, for it pos- sesses a widely varied power of transformation, A frock of flowered chiffon or Georgette, made in a cleverly subtle way, will pass for a town or sports frock, if worn with a small, simple hat, and footwear of the type It emulates. But complement it with a picture hat, even If it is not a transparent straw, and footwear that Is In keeping with the more formal outfit, and an afternoon ensemble Is the result. As a frock is supplemented, so is the frock! Morning Demands The Small Hat For morning wear, fashion pre- scribes the small hat of felt or straw. The narrow, turn-down brim Is approved, when there is a brim, but turban and the beret, in some form or other, are friendly to the woman who is growing out ber hair. For some are doing this, even as others are cutting theirs for the first time. The point seems to be the utmost in becomingness, and hair is short, long and medium. We hear much talk of the cloche, but it is not the cloche of other days, when they were as alike as two peas in a pod, If one excepted color and material, The wider brim, variously manipulated, is a feature, and its width lends it softness. There are so. many women who cannot wear the s7ide-brimmed hat, that it is a pleasing compro- mise to find the seemingly small bat take on some of the piec- turesqueness of the former. Compare the mode of this sum- mer season with that of last year, and your surprise will be great. There is much more of the fem- inine in the 1928 summer hat than there is in the hat of 1927, and it is apparent in material, brim and every noted detail. And you will realize that straw, which has been rather neglected for some seasons past, is a far more feminine fabric than feit, long the ruler of the mode. » it is A Season Of Straw All the old and new favorites, including Panama, leghorn, baku, bangkok, ballibuntl, bengal and horsehair are regkesented. And while there are a very great many crocheted and knitted hats, for sports wear, they all have the ef- fect of straw. The presence of straw is noted everywhere in the mode, and the chic little shape for wear with the tallleur often pre- fers a fine weave of this material to the more classic felt, the choice that one assumes that | stitchery, sometimes several. Ging- transparency is desired of fashion.| ham straws, copies of the patterns But oftentimes the crown is heavy | in the cloth, are smart in tailored and the brim sheer, lace and hair | shapes, | the fayorites for the latter. Some! jr you have a suspleton that | of the crowns are made of velvet! socnion fs deserting its friend of | and others of flowers or small long standing--felt, you are being | feathers, the two latter detalls as-| qo unjust, for it is quite as much | suming importance dally. There Is| pn the mode as ever. It makes | beauty in the lace flange that drops| smal hats, as always, and we see | down, veil-like, over the eyes. lit used for "picture" hats that are A Clever Use Of Color | trimmed with beautiful ornaments, | Everywhere we see color fea-| even with flowers. And they are | tured in the newest models. In Worn with diaphanous frocks that the angora wool hats there are employ so exact a summer pma-| some wonderful color combina-| terial as organdy, the latter greatly tions; in the large hat there are in favor. "confections" that employ the | pastels--they are planned for for-] Pearls, in a frantic endeavor to | mal afternoon affairs and are! keep their position in the costume | charming with white. The quilted | jewelry world, are appearing in| hats use contrasting colors in the | ombre colorings. SOMETHING TO LIVE WITH E hear so very much about the modercist arts, not only in patterns, but in entire house furnishings, that we become interested in spite of ourselves. A pecent display featured the arts and crafts of Sweden, and an ap- pealing peasant note was struck in the many and waried articles of- fered. 'There was nothing of crudeness, instead, there was much of the home-like quality that al- ways makes a setting seem so in- witing. From small things to large, one fs reminded of her gift problems that she hopes to solve in a maiguely different way. There is a collection of table faience, lunch- son sets and tea services in simple . forms that are surprisingly grace- j ful, their patterns done in the lovely grays, greens and yellows that are typical. Patterns include flower, bird and animal motifs. and weather. The pleces for use | are comfortable in their lines, as are the sun dials, urns, wall grills ' Separate pleces--bowils, plates and land pedestals. Time will make | | flower-pots may be had. | them more beautiful, we are told, | There are some adorable pleces | and one may choose from sporting | | of pewter, the collection including | motifs in the decoration to the { small things, as ash trays, ink | motifs supplied by the classic | wells, sugar and creamer sets, and | sagas. | | large things also--mirrors and Yet another group includes | | sconces. candlesticks, tea pots and | peasant furniture, odd chairs and | trays. Some of the pieces show i tables of the trestle type, and these | repousse designs, while others are pieces are hewn out in the manner incised, resulting in a sparkling typical of the peasant, then burned | | effect. A pattern that includes a to show the grain of the wood. | | runner on skis, pursuing a rein- | They are copies of pieces that have | | deer around the midnight sum, is |endured for centuries in the peas- typical of their art. ant homes of the country, and are Garden furniture forms another | designed for country home in- group. and it is made of iron, giv- |teriors. They combine best with ing one the impression that it will | the, primitive, early American {endure indefinitely against wind | things. ; | ones. fig ROLNTECIES CLA TCE WHEN FABRIC @ SIGNS FAIL touch, for anything of mannish- | for the fall season, and new ideas ness or boyishness has long ago | are being tried out in the mid- E no longer associate cot- | ton with the house dress] and silk, satin and velvet with our 'dress-up' occa- sions. There are certain materials | that are proper only for certain things, but we are constantly sur- prised with a new use of a hitherto | exclusive fabric, and balancing this, we have the supposedly or- dinary textiles assuming an unex- | pected versatllf And it all serves to prove to us just how important | fabrics are. In the new scheme of things the | hitherto speclallzed materials have | come to cover all types, and the | same can be sald of the humbler A vast improvement in wearing qualities, colors, texture and weaves is responsible for this, although we do not question the | why of it so long as it serves our | convenience and pleasure, This present season is an excellent in- | dication of the general (fabric trend, and the future holds pos- sibilities. Even the most ordinary wools have taken on beauty, and the silks and crepes have joined them in beautifying practical things. Tailored dresses and suits now use the finer materials, and are ap- proved gs such. Lace, admittedly a formal fabric, makes soft ruffles and frills to supply the severe tail- leur with the necessary feminine | i THE PILOTURES (1) A sports model of panams wears embroideries. This is one of the smart trimming touches of the moment, and appears on The touch.of color is very effective against the white background, and the silk scarf is linked to the hat by the color and the similarity of design. both felts and straws. (2) A sports ensemble in one further dignified with the title of utility find many daytime uses. The straight line coat has a stitched Tuxedo collar and stitched cuffs. The skirt has inverted pleats, and the jumper is bx more soft and supple than former- ly, and wools with a satin finish, broadeloth preferably, are being specially featured. | A -- | The tulle evening dress, its solar black, is taking the place of the evening frock of chiffon, It is the simplest port of a model, with little of the bouffant about it, and f{t| depends for its charm on the cos- | tume jewelry worn with it, | O really important is beige, ny Sie fashion color scheme, that the shops are offering ensembles fn this tone, or tones, The logical three, when it comes to an accessory ensemble, includes hat, shoes and handbag, and there Is, | usually a second alliance carried out in materials. The shoes of- fered were in two leathers--kid- | skin with a bow of snakeskin--this | model a pump, and in watersnake, | three models shown, all of the] strapped variety, The handbag for | the pump was of the snakeskin, beautifully tailored, The bag for the watersnake footwear was of | the same material, and it, too, was distinguished by its workmanship. | The hats, which could be worn with either the one type or the | handkerchiet type, for the outdoor | ensemble, and one must not be i deceived into thinking that silk is| | more expensive, for it is not, Already Paris is making ready | season collections shown, This the | means that one can get more than 8 hint of the fabrics that will be the fundamentals of the new mode. | There seems to be a rivalry be- tween satin, the expected between- | season fabric, and velvet, which appears In weaves so sheer and imitates. One forgives it a scal- Lsht of weight that it is classed as loped edge, because that is its own | a filmy fabric. finish, and an occasional bow, or | The new printed velvets present unusual collar is also permissible. | Possibilities, and they are dupli- lace knows no restrictions, and | cated in other fabrics, chiffon and! that is well. | Georgette ~ especially, which sug- Probably the most astounding | Bests the formal ensemble. This thing Is the rise of cotton materials | 8 2 continuance of the idea that in conjunction with the new rayon | ™*° find in printed silks and chif- | threads. There are cotton house | £098: taffeta the preferred weave dresses, as of yore, but entire suits | in summer silk. Satins are even | of printed cotton or linen are)' ~------ found in the ensemble groups, and | 7 passed from the mode. Lace is also approaching sports mode by way of the blouse, modeled after the sweater which is never anything else but sports- like. The lace sweater-blouse fis a slipover aftair and it follows the straight lines of the garment (it evening brings out the cotton frock. Organdy is one of the smartest materials for evening wear and makes dresses of the bouffant type, using, frequently, the medium of a circular cut skirt. If afternoon means to you merely the chiffons, laces and Georgettes | that are usually associated with it, | then you must enlarge your horizon, for the cotton and rayon voiles, Georgettes and novelty weaves make some extremely fas- cinating models. There is nothing more attractive than linen, of the little for her clothes -- and | there are such women, strange as it may seem, knows that | the ensemble is the thing! And it | is an undeniable fact that back of | everything in the mode is the] scheme of the ensemble, whether that thing be sports, street, after- noon or evening in its type. So it narrows down to a question of what is smartest in the groups that meet every need of the busy sum- mer day. To list every fabric and color combination that one might gee, even in a day's shopping, would be an impossibility. But a review of representative costumes from each group will be possible and prove of interest. Perhaps one may be more to your individual needs and color and fabric. It may be ble. for it \a (3) The flair for knit fabrics, seen in a hat. This cloche has the protecting brim that is characteristic of the new millinery, and is a fascinating moveity in the sports group. Its only trimming is a band of grosgrain ribbon. new contribution to the mode. (4) Sheer materials distinguished the brim, is banded with cire ribbon--very smart. (5) Color links the hat with the silken scarf. Or it may be fabric that joins the two, if the designer so decides, but sports accessories, like those of other types, go in sets. A mushroom brim, b taste than another, if so, that fs the smartest, for your special pur- pose. You should be able to find type, color, fabric and styling to your liking. The ensemble practical, for gen- eral uses at home and travel any- where, is of tweed. One can list many possibilities in the tweed group--coat and skirt of tweed, worn with a silk, crepe or jersey jumper. or with one of the many fetching sweaters. Upon the blouse depends the formality or Anfor- mality of the emsemble. 'Then The metal necklace is another picture hat. Frocks of ed for f i aft of this hat with a of + its derni (8) A lace blouse with decided sweater tendencies. Jt is a pull- over, straight of line. and untrimmed save for its pattern; its unusual sailor collar and a wee black bow. of the gemeral adaptability of lace, for it can be classed only is a there are one-plece dresses com- bined with the coats, the former often combined with another ma- terial. In the sports group one finds flannel, jersey, linen and fabrics kin to them. Printed linens and it is added proof as a sports (7) Ome of the many clever printed chiffon frocks. for its extreme simplicity, yet one recognizes a master hand in draped bodice, held in place by an ornamental buckle, and the unusual neckline. The print Mself is unusual also, in its the cottons are used in these costumes and they are very smart. 'Then there are outfits made up of a | lannel skirt, worn with a jumper it is notable | what the same, There are so many |and no matter how many panels, | one | slenderness of the model. ii a eT PASSA LY SLTTLEBLE [7 REVIEW VEN the woman who cares |that combines the two colors. One [two pleces, and can be placed in other, were of felt, small and brimmed, a -- Both prints and chiffons are ex- ceedingly versatile in their aetivi- ties, so far as the new mode Is concerned, Printed chiffon and | plain are important in both the | daytime and the evening mode, and there are many effective com- binations of chiffon with lace. The chiffon frock for daytime wear has sleeves, while the evening gown | does not, the latter shows greater vagaries of the hemline than the former, otherwise they are some- things one can do with chiffon, draperies or godets there may be, is still impressed with the Summer brings color Into the footwear fleld, and it brings won- derful cloths to rival leather as a SEEN IN THE SHOPS slipper material, We have becom somewhat accustomed to red and blue, along with the various shades of reptilian leathers, But now there is green and peach and jade and rose and heige and sapphire and topaz! And there are slippers of patterned materials done in gayy flashing colors. Silks and cloths and linens are to be had, plain textures and those of woven strips, There are linens--Irish, natural, embroidered, And there are the sandals of straw, cleverly woven, ig colors cleverly combined, They're using the most fragile of the silks and the crepe de chines, indeed, they're using any material tha§ comes to hand, | C progress, and we find it a unis form of utter smartness! In its original form it was a possess sion of an officer, then it came inte the feminine wardrobe via the rainy day route, Its swagger uses fulness won it friends, and as & result it graduated from the stormy weather group to general use as a daytime, street coat. And designers began to do things with it! Of course it is still to be had in the rubberized fabrics that make it rain-apparel, and very smart {it is! But you can choose it in gray, tan or natural chamois, warmly lined, in cotton gabardine, unlined, in wool gabardine, full plaid lined or in twill, also plaid lined, Beite ed, pocketed and cut on lines that are dashing in the extreme, it is, indeed, a utility coat with a dif- ference, - OUT OF THE. ARMY! HE trench coat {is making may not fall to mention the knit- | wear ensembles, many of them | with interwoven metal threads, | One moves on into another group that has just a bit more of the for- mal about it, yet is not too formal for practical uses. There is a cloth coat, perhaps, in a twilled weave, or a coat of the new basket-weave tweed. The frock is of silk or crepe, printed or plain, and the coat is lined with the frock fabric. There is a wide range of colors and patterns in this group, making a satisfactory choice a probability. As we approach the formal en- semble we become lost in a8 maze of color, soft materials and intri- cate lines, for the possibilities seem unlimited. When formality rules, the coat fis usually of silk--many say that the silk ensemble is the very smartest fashion of the season. There are several types of fit, among them the one made up of printed silk frock and printed silk coat, the frock and coat of plain silk, and the plain coat over a print. Instantly one is lost in a mage of speculation, for possibilities of combination are unlimited. The plain coat, especially if it is black, will do for so very many different frocks, plain or- printed. The printed coat will be smart with a plain frock as well as the print that matches, and it will be mitra smart over white. Two coats will open the way to a really extended wardrobe of plain and printed frocks. And there are jacket coats and long coats to be made into these ensembles, the former rather more limited in its possibilities than the { in another shade or color, the two | linked together with a blazer jacket latter. Usually the jacket is worn over a sleeveless dress in one or > 4 the sports group, if one wishes to stretch a point, Some of the coats are full-length, while others are three-quarters or seven -eighths, and many of them are pot lined at all, > An ensemble made up of a pleated skirt of sailor blue moire, below a white moire silk jumper, has a short jacket of the blue moire. The jumper is sleeveless and has appliques simulating the neckerchief of a sailor's uniform done in the blue. A one-piece frock of navy Georgette is worn with & coat of navy taffeta, stitched in a curious design with gold thread. These two shows the pos sibilities of this group. But they are not as formal as the ensemble that uses chiffon or Georgette with a silk coat. Yet in this type of an ensemble the coats are severely simple, some of them furred, but most of them not. Crepe, satin and the silks are the fabric choice. When a printed material 1s the choice for the dress, it is very gay, and there is a return to black and white in the frock under the black coat--ale ways new, yet ever old. Evening brings out ensembles made up of lace, chiffon, Georgette, ' organdy, satin and silk crepe. Lite * tle jackets of the sheer material of the frock and of yet another fabric are smart, and the evening wrap, full or three-quarters length, is developed along avith the frock to make an ensemble. Transparent velvet, lame, moire satin, evem prints, combine in the wrap. And in keeping with fashions dictates, luggage, beachwear, foots wear and headwear and all the accessories of the costume follow the rule of the ansamble note. | TOWERS IR A RATT re x