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ww' EVENING ON THE ROOF GARDEN General Fashions Include Appropriate Attire for This Purpose -- Variety is Its Prevailing Characteristic HAT everyone does not go away for the summer is cops clusively proven by the gayety and life that characterize the many roof gardens that have sprung up, mushroom-like, throughout our cities. Dining and dancing on a roof is a favorite pastime for the stay-at-home, and it has had its effect on our fashions which con- form themselves, always, to the occasion and the time. And the result is interesting for several rea- sons. We classify evening dress as for- mal and informal, although the di- viding line is, sometimes, a trifle indefinite, There Is something of freedom in one's choice of a frock for summer outdoor dining and dancing, although the strictly for-| sible to classify this new mal model is out of the question. An earlier or later engagement may influence selection, but the de- mand for a suitable type has given rise to an array of seasonable models that hold promise of things new. Both the formal and the infor- mal frock may choose its type from two that are very generally approved, yet widely different, and one's judgment will say which be- comes her best, and which is most appropriate to her purpose. And there are many whimsies of fashion that make it possible for one to effect a compromise, turning the informal into the semli-formal or the semi-formal into the truly for- mal. In all the feminine note is sounded. The Most Practical Choice Perhaps nothing possesses both formality and informality in the degree that chiffon does. A straight line model, achieving that simplic- ity by ways that are decidedly in- tricate, is an excellent choice for the woman who is nos sure. It may be flowered, white or in a solid color, or it may bs black. There is nothing more satisfactory in all fashion than the black eve- ping gown, of lace, Georgette or chiffon, perhaps in a combination. Such a model may keep to itself, asking nothing of trimming effects, or it may wear a jeweled girdle or a shoulder flower. It may achieve a different effect with several shades or colors of the material, or it may wear a transparent hem of black lace--this is a feature, usually, of the flowered chiffon. Yet there is a feeling of formality in its ripples and folds, this feeling detracting nothing from its appro- priateness to purpose, Then there is the inevitable bead-embroidered dress which fis by no means new, yet continues vastly important. It has rivals, many of them, but manages to hold its position, appearing fr tly w Originally the bouffant dress was made up of two parts, the bodice and the full skirt. It is in the elimination of the walst-length bodice and the dropping of that | line down over thé hips that wel are Interested. It is a princesse | feeling, and bouffancy begins much lower In the newest offerings. We are being introduced, very cleverly, to the idea of curves, and it Is in- tended that we shall like them, as, perhaps, we may. As a result of the changing line, we have uneven hems that do not dip deeply in back and come up in front, Rather, there is a general unevenness all the way round, with sharply dipping points and panel effects. It is almost impos- uneven- ness. But there are still models in the original period manner, and they are neither out of date nor | are they likely to he. They are! charming, and they make for variety, There Is Thickness At The Hips Some designers offer models that show width or thickness at the hips | above a narrower skirt. This is| achieved by bows or puffs or chous | of the material, and is part and parcel of the bustle idea, although | the bustle is misplaced. Taffeta is | an excellent medium for this type of frock, and while it, as well as the robe de style, must be men-| tioned, they are less popular for roof garden wear than the models that are straighter in their effect. Some of the newest frocks show a bodice that is slightly draped above a tightly swathed hipline. Below this hipline the skirt may be circular, but at any rate, there is width. You will note that the idea of low placed fulness is gaining recognition, and there are times when pointed. draperies are repeat- ed on the bodice, giving one the impression of cascades of the ma- terial. Moire, very supple, is a much used medjum. The woman who frequents the roof gardens will find that there is convenience and charm in the model that has a separate jacket made from the same or a contrast- ing material, It is brief as to its length but it has sleeves, and it can be used for formal afternoon occasions and go on to an evening occasion that calls for a sleeveless frock. That these models are pop- ular is proven by the mumber in which they appear in the shops. The rough silks are decidedly popular for sports things. They make frocks and coats in ensemble effect, and proceed to @mish a task well started by making th» aoces- Sy Gursard lg THERE ARE MANY ~mmll OQOPHECIES HILE we know that the| Wen models in the shops | are not definite promises, we feel sure that they are rife with | prophecies. And advance showings give us a hint, at least, of what colors and materials will be fea-| tured in the fall. From what we know, and what we guess, we can build up a rather interesting story of the coming mode. From now on there will he openings galore, and each one will add a chapter to those already written. Every mode begins with the ma- terial end of its copstruction. And | we have come to expect velvet and | satin just as soon as the weather permits, the latter featured all the year mound but acquiring greater importance when cooler days come. The openings stress velvet, as ex- beneath a wrap that is notable for its simplicity--made wholly of 'a fine fabric and without trimming of any sort. Some of the simply beaded models are very much in the spirit of summer, and of the getting where they are worn. The Modified Bouflant Frock We had come to look upon the robe de style as a classic, never realizing that there could be influ- ences powerful enough to change it. Such has proVven 'the case, however, and we are being treated to some very different, very appeal- ing versions of this type of dress, and these models, more than any other one thing, tell us which way the winds of fashion are blowing. it is interesting to mote that both stiff and soft materials are used. GLOVES ARE HAT (is, if they are designed for street wear and not for sports. They are worn as a part of some minor ensemble, matching bag, shoes, scarf or even hat, and they play a most im- portant part in the major ensem- blg. One may choose them to match one, two or three of the costume details, or they may match the frock with which they are worn. That they are decorative in the extreme makes them even more important. Ruffled wrists, reversible cuffs and buckled arrangements are fay- orite trimming treatments and pro- vide a medium for the imtrodue- tion of color, which must be watched. Embroideries are popu- ELABORATE lar, also appliques, and stitching, tabs of the material, openwork and many other novelties are intro- duced. Skins of the suede type and the washable glace kids are favorites, the glove itself jn a color that is neutral, Sports gloves are, usually, of the slip-on variety, and suede, chamois and capeskin are the preferred ma- terials. They are made to pull on and off quickly, this an imperative characteristic of. a sports glove. Gray. beige and white are the col- ors most in demand, but there are novelty colors that fit into certain ensemble schemes. White suede slip-ons are hand-sewed in black, making an ultra-smart note. | are important. pected, and show special favor to the printed velvets, which will be used for both daytime and evening wear. Chiffon and panne Many of the most quoted design- ers either as a part of the ensemble. some corduroy. Satin, with the dull side, is seen, and the between-season models in black and navy, for street wear, are nu- merous. shades of beige, planned for after- There is noon, and the faint pastels, white | and the inevitable black, for eve- ning. There are some very noticeable trends in fabrics. We have always | considered Georgette a most portant daytime material, but other | fabrics a:e more popular--the silks and satin. And crepe de chine, so long a leader, is being replaced by | other ecrepe weaves. The tulles and silk nets are displacing chiffon to a certain extent, although "the | latter, along with lace, is im-| portant. Georgette is used as al foundation for the beaded dress. | If you are expecting radical | changes in the general mode, you] are to be disappointed. There seems to be a steady, consistent | development of the ideas already | expressed, but such a dev elopment | assures change, if one compares a| season with another a year pre- vious. That change has to do with | the silhouette and all its parts, in-| cluding the hemline, and progress | is apparent. It is noticeable in many different ways. We may still call the silhouette' Then there are the softer | | back. | are developments. velvet using velveteen for coats, | a separate garment or as | trimmed | straiont. and it is dehnitely so in ik | coats, if one excepts an occasional "ia ared model. Even then, it is a subtle flare and detracts very little from the uncompromising straight- ness. The fulness occurs at the sides and in the front, rarely in Dresses, on the other hand, appear straight, but show width and motion when the wearer moves. The width is placed lower than formerly. Probably the thing that will bear the closest watching is the ten- dency to curves, that ig, at the moment, everywhere apparent. The suggestion of a waist, the swathed hipline, and the appearance of ful- ness very much farther down on the skirt than formerly, all these There are times when there is nothing to even sug- gest the position of the waistline, the molding of lines continuing down to the fulness. Interest is always keen in the | sections set into the skirt. There | are tiers cut along circular lines, also shaped tiers that suggest the molded idea. One sometimes wone ders if fulness, ever dropping, will disappear entirely. : =| Fluttery treatments, represented length of the skirt and the atrec: | | tight and sleeves that are loose be- | by ties, scarfs, jabots and the like, | tion that the hemline takes. There are longer, and this applies to day-| time as well as evening models. The hemline continues irregular, which is good news in many ways, and we are being treated to the idea of the straight around hem | in formal frocks as a novelty! circle must round itself out as the seasons roll by. line rises, and the rule of moment is the top of the hips. There are normal waists, but few find them becoming, and the aver- age woman likes a line lower, sometimes using the swathed hip- line to make it seem yet This can be said, however--you can, and should choose the line that is symmetrical for your in- dividual figure, and by doing so you will not be out of the mode. Perhaps fall will stress some one neckline more than the other, but it seems doubtful. We dare given the choice of the square, the V-| neck, the round and the diagonal, the latter correct only when the lines of the frock demand it. There are some few bateau necks, but they as formerly. There smartness in this neckline, but only for cer- tain types. The V-line is the most generally becoming. We are wearing sleeveless and short-sleeved frocks at present, but it is largely in deference to the summer season. Fall will bring back the long sleeve and if advance models are any criterion, there will be variety in the possi- bilities for this sleeve. We note HERE is always millinery news, and it is not as forward- looking as the usual fashion informations, for we buy more hats, in proportion, than any other major article of dress. So we are interested in for immediate wear, and they are wholly in the spirit of the summer season. There are some few that whisper- of changes to come, but we shall have to do with these later, when the weather hints of fall. The mode divides evenly into two parts--the hats that are designed for formal wear, large shapes, and those that belong to the sports and informal group, small hats. Later the first type will disappear almost completely, and there will be scores of new versions of the latter type. 'The beauty of the picture hat should! be enjoyed while it is in season, for nothing is more charming, if, one wears it well. Hats of sheer and 'lacy straws, trimmed with lace, the cire rib- bons and velvet, are shown in variety. They have the usual round crown, but the brim takes on width shorter in back. This is the usual rule, but there are models with the wide brim running all the way round, a style that should never be attempted by the large woman or the small--it will act very like the snuffer on a candle. The small white hat is an im- portant fashion right now. It is a result of the summer preference for white, and it takes many forms, chief among them the hats of pique, linen and cotton. The first scheme that is peculiar to their type. They supplement the little runabout dresses and the sports frock seen on the tennis court. The cloche shape is preferred. Some- As the hemline drops the waist- | the | C in front or at the sides, appearing | two find a place in the fashion | | The ! | lower. | | is fresh {row the elbow, sleeves with flares is no denying the fact that skirts | and sleeves with puffs, also below | the elbow, and many novelties. The things to watch, then, are skirt length, the tendency to mold- | ed, princesse lines, and the drop- ping of fulness lower upon the | skirt. Circular treatments are an- other point of interest, sometimes in a flounce and again in circular continue, and we are impressed by the continued use of the kerchief, | separately and as a detail, for it is | the inspiration for many knotted arrangements of fabric. The ene | semble will continue, carrying on | in both daytime and evening wear, | Ahd jt will be quite as important in the accessory group as it is in ! coats and dresses. SUMMER BRINGS IT BACK HE all-white costume is a sum- mertime classic, and this par- ticular year it possesses a smartness that is unimpeachable, We know that white is the coolest hue of them all, and since it always effective, it earns the neces- sary It is smart, in however, only when it its appearance, so ft | intlines to costliness because laun- are not so distinct a line | dry and cleaning bills mount up | speedily. Many of the little frocks, how- ever, can be easily taken care of at home, for those made of linen, soft silk or crepe de chine, which | sleeveless, | are, for the most part, can be washed frequently, they {ron easily. orite material and there are various novelty materials that embody! rayon or its equivalent in the weave. These, too, are easily laundered and one can have sev- and | eral of them. the bishop sleeve, sleeves that are! HE IITLEDIATE SEASOY the models planned | itself quite : | | | When we come to the spectator sports frocks we find white is often relieved with a touch of color, subtly applied and extremely ef- fective. There is more of detail about this type of dress and we find new ideas embodied in it, characteristic of practicality. | Pique is a fav- | | Included in this grdup are the finé | French frocks, entirely hand made, |and many models that are copies of the creations of famous design= ers. Nor are they half as expense ive as they sound! The white knitted costume is | popular, and sometimes silver | threads are woven in with the white. Silk, bouclette, the soft wools and rayon mixtures are used | for yarns, and here, again, color is | cleverly introduced, sometimes in | lower motifs in the natural tones, | The separate sweater is combined with the skirt of wool or silk, even with those made of pique, linen, | homespun or tweed, also in white, Pleats distinguish them. | These sweaters are made in slips over or coat style and they, too, take color, though sparingly. For the sake of variety a white sweat- er, touched with rose color, is worn with a skirt in the same or a deep~ | er shade of the rose. Coats are | made of cheviot or serge or flannel or tweed, and some are fur trimmed ~--fox fur the preference, while others are not, Scarf arrange- ments and solid stitching are used on the latter, -- = times it wears a touch of color. It never seems to he seasonable, yet it is always a favorite, the little | white felt hat that is' right now, the most popular of all the small hats. It can be worn with almost any costume, is easily packed in most cases, for it rolls up, and ft | is to be had shapes. varied, in many becoming Trimming details are including stitched brims, self-appliques, tucked crowns oF brims and amusing little pins and feather fancies, A novelty of the moment is the beret of rayon, a sports model, And there are small felts in colors, | as well as black. Evening brings out a draped turban of metal tricot, light, eool and smart, de- signed for wear with soft chiffon | or lace frocks. THE PICTURES (1) Quite ready for anything evening may offer, A frock that is very simple in its effect, but rich in embroideries, may dine and dance, either formally or informally, The cape wrap of satin has a most unusual scarf collar and increases its hem width with a generous flounce, (2) Bordered flannel in two shades is the choice. A sports ensemble of this type, designed for the spectator, is equally at home at country club or shore, The pleated skirt uses the border cleverly and both jumper and jacket find it a smart trimming for all purposes. (3) A stunning evening ensemble in fur and chiffon. How regally lovely a costume may be, as a result of a nice choice of color and desl is here plified. The frock is untrimmed, but the fur bandings on the wrap emphasize the color of the hap d. The f. oR { (4) Fashion dines and dances in a sheer frock. The straight line becomes a series of very full godet inserts a little way below the hips, these dippi idedly on one side to achieve the uneven hemline, and should er are The tucked bodice, jeweled belt (5) Very much in the mode, the transient large hat, round crown and a brim that picture hat fashioned of shiny With a is wide all the way round, this braid is a fitting complement to the summer dress. A wide lace trim forms a flattering flange, A cire satin ribbon is used to band it. (6) Fashion finds the tunic a very useful thing. It is the modern interpretation of the mode that demanded no width whatsoever at the hemline, A figured material with bandings in a darker shade makes this model, which is worn over a skirt of the solid color, The bands draw lines. (7) A coat of this type has a score of purposes. It is perfect for the traveler, whether she go by motor, rail or steamship. It is an Meal rainy 4sy garment and emhodics In its completeness all the smart details of the sports coat mode. Patch pockets"; and belt are features,