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The Autumn Openings Have Already Be- NEW MO DEVELOPS gun-- Certain Themes Seem Assured a Ranking Place. ALL fashions are not wholly a matter of conjecture even in the mid-summer season, for one may travel, in her sum- L.ci costume, to the showings of medels that do more than merely whisper of fall and its necessities, To keep pace with the trend of fashion is most important, for it always happens that the finished mode of a new season differs de- cidedly from that of the season gust finished, Changes are already apparent, : Summer has marked the estab- lishment of many tendencies, many of them merely hinted before, It would now appear that they will become realities with the fall, establishing an interesting situa- tion in the history of fashion, They are, in a way, a reversion to the principles of other years, yet they have, apparently, been mod- ernized to meet the changed and changing conditions of the settings in which they will appear. Generally speaking they are a reversion to the feminine type, lost for some years in masculine fash- fons that were a logical outgrowth of the war, It will be interesting to see whether the very definite simplicity, withal a sophisticated one, will be lost in the progress of that reversion, This would be a tragedy, for over-elaboration is fatal to charm, and the dividing line is, at times, hardly discernible, The Changing Silhouette The wider skirt is not new, but the fall version of it differs radical- ly from the models of several sea- sons ago that inaugurated, for the first time, the flared silhouette, There have been many phases ap- parent in the change from tube- like straightness to lines that are not unlike an Inverted morning glory in the strict conforming of the hipline and the flared width below it. It must be well done to be effective, Not only is fulness a character- istic of this new silhouette, but elaborate fulness, We are bound to notice, as the season advances, that ideas are very like those In the summer models, but they ad- vance a step farther toward some goal not yet definitely explained, It may be that the designers are not themselves quite sure, Each season takes care of {itself quite logically, and acceptance has some- thing to do with continuance. There is one thing that should not be overlooked in this new mode which 1s rapidly shaping ft- self in preparation for fall and winter. The hipline Is fitted, plain in effect, and expressed, generally, as "swathed," This means that smartness demands that the fulness develop below that fitted line. We have had the tight hip, off and on, for several seasons, but now it is # fundamental of the correct sil- houette. ~- To Achieve The Proper Width Many things will contribute to the new fulness, among them leats, tiers, fi and circylar pieces of the material, and they will be applied in & number of ways, the tiers using pleats, and, at "times, being shirred on. So soft are the approved fabrics that 8 very great yardage can be used without effecting bulk to the ex- tent where it is undesirable, It gall results in an appearance of straightness when the skirt is not in motion. We are always interested in the hemline, and it continues its down- ward trend, but so gradually that there is little apparent change. The frregular hem will continue, or so She newest models would tell us, ®nd the evening silhouette will again feature the hem dipping deeply in back and much shorter In front, It is Interesting to note that the walstline and, in many Instances, the decolletage, follows the hemline, Probably the most significant models appear in the evening, for the new versions of the robe de style do away with the bouffant effect at the hips and continue the molded line downward from the bodice to where the fulness begins, and for this hour of the day there is even greater fulness. Daytime models do not forget the bloused line that is so friendly to the aver- age woman, nor the semi-Eton ef- fects that are so smart, Details Of Line Important It is pleasant to note that there Is variety in necklines and sleeves, many of the latter decidedly in- tricate of cut, Elaboration ap- pears below the elbow in many of the new offerings, although there is a fair representation of the Bishop sleeve, and tailored models prefer the tight sleeve. There is nothing to threaten the general popularity of the V-neckline al- though the round, square and bateau lings are featured. While we are wearing straws and linens and cottons, designers are concentrating on the coats that will be our first acquisition for the fall wardrobe, And it is extremely im- portant, in a survey of the new of- ferings, to consider the tendency toward width In wraps. All through the preliminary stages coats have kept their slimness, but width and the normal waist are stressed, along with an occasional irregular hemline, Certain Tendencies Continue We now realize that the fur- less coat, so very prodigally fea- tured through the summer months, was a reaction from the lavishly trimmed wraps of the past few seasons. It cannot mean that there will be furless coats, except, per- haps, in the sports mode, this sea- son, but restraint in the uses of fur is apparent, At times there is merely a collar of fur, and quite often fabrics In contrast are used most cleverly, There is no decrease in femin- inity or formality spparent in the advance offerings, There is iIn- stead an increase in the subtleties concelved by the makers of our modes. The ensemble still holds all fashion in its power, and its infl is not r ed or denied by anyone who realizes how great has been the contribution to har- mony. Incidentally, the skirt that flares at the hemline will open the way for wider brimmed hats as a balance. Notes On Present Fashions The very smartest "color" for mid-summer wear is white, in what is known as an eggshell tint, Then comes {ts direct contrast, black, always supremely smart, followed by yellow and red. It is prophesied that brown will be returned to favor, not merely for daytime, but for evening wear, There are large Milan hats and small felt hats, both popular, and the chiffon frock, printed, of course, is ap- proved for every possible occasion. The silver fox fur is the aristo- crat of fashion for wear with tailored things. So that winter coats will present a real contrast, summer featured the straight line coat, collarless and untrimmed. And there is an appropriate coat for every occasion, so that the perfect ensemble results. One fis impressed by the beauty of fabric, color and line, and the fact that the clever combination of all three achieves a striking simplicity, D vie | AOO7 WEAR im Lhe LONELY Lo FTER many many years, designers have focused their attention, not merely on shoes, but color in ielation to the footwear problem. If you have struggled with the problem of finding a color that will not merely "do" but be smart, for a dress that seems at outs with every footwear color, then you will be thrilled at the current shoe dis- | plays. Black, gray and brown are no longer the ruling tri-umvirate, There 1s a theory back of the| Introduction of color into the situ- | ation, and once you accept that theory and proceed with it; in your shoe choice, you will experience no difficulty whatsoever in choosing correctly. Dress colors are, nat- urally, the basis. Summer brought red, blue and yellow, all problems for complementary footwear, Not content with navy, middy, sailor and marine blue were of- fered, and many exceptional shades | with trade names. These blues! were supplemented by various ac- cessories, leaving the shoe problem to black, brown or gray. No one of the three was quite right, and | 80 the shoe designer began ex-| perimenting with blue, evolving | many smart models. The idea is| to choose a deeper blue than the! ensemble, even a blue just off black. | The same is true of red, a color | with which red alone is perfection. | It may be a red so very deep that | in some lights it looks very like! black, but the correct color cast is | there and it is in harmony with | the ensemble. Black, the first color | to come to one's mind, can be a | very ugly note in the costume, for | it presents an abrupt contrast that is not desirable, even though there are now "shades" of it. seasons and The patent leather shoe, the one in dull kid, and the gunmetal leather are. all black, but where one is good another is not, all the way through. , But color will con- tinue its forward march, since fit has been found that it adds so much to effect, Any window will prove its summer popularity, but | what we are now Interested in is the prospects for fall. And we are told that colors will be staples from now on, What color will do has been con- clusively proven in summer foot- wear fashions, The suit of plain and printed linen is complemented by linen shoes printed in the same colors, if not the exact pattern. Silks of the rough type are com- plemented by footwear of the same material and tone, We see blue, red and green shoes, and it Is pos- THE bustle' draperies. are unusual, only with a soft fabric, plain skirc. arrangement, (8) The spectator sports frock at its best. green silk crepe, luxuriously heavy. shows in the tie, the fi the wrist rufiles, features, (7) The sleeveless jacket is a 1928 classic, PICTURES (1) When a lovely fabric needs no trimming, course, but not the usual silken weave. of the new fiber that is the result of experimentation, period affair with downward creeping waistline and intricate (2) Navy blue is promised for early fall. crepe of the approved shade, has its skirt solidly embroidered from hem to hipline in the floral shades. front, slashed to show embroidery, (3) Here's a new. materinl--moire chiffon! makes the most of its fabric, accenting fits loveliness with a touch of bead embroidery at the wrists. A matching ognament holds the huge bow in place. The neck treatment is possible (5) Picturing a smartly appropriate sports coat. is a novelty mixture in shades of blue and gray, facing of the coat fabric is unusnal, contrasting effectively with the Indian print lining. A military collar adopts a clever scarf It's moire, of Instead, it uses threads It 1s a This model, in flat There's an Eton in Both neckline and sleeves This formal frock (4) A roof garden frock of printed chiffon, The floral design, done in soft rose and green against a black background, is repeated in the silk flowers that trail from the left shoulder. Simplicity is the chief characteristic of the bloused bodice and ' The material The hem The fabric is water A deeper tone of green pleats of the skirt and the edges of The swathed hipline and an odd pane! are We find it in ensem. bles of all materials, from printed linens and cotton to the silks, satine and velvets, This model uses a brown and white worsted-pattern silk for the skirt and jacket, crepe for the blouse, SR pe But there are of red, of blue but | frock is not good. | shades of green, | that are. Not strong shades, | the fainter ones, and {t is same with Tavender and pink, an jdea that was the basis of some charming wedding settings, It is now possible to purchase linen, dyed and they can be | emeniea by colorful acces- | sories, and even if white is not | particularly becoming to you, it will be made possible, and smart, by the costume details that are im- perative, may be chosen your special color. And you will find it'a pleasant business choosing the many necessities from the wide variety offered--headwear, foot- wear, belts, kerchiefs, jackets, handbags and flowers. Fashion, like the individual, has her preferences, but that does not mean that other approved colors are quite as smart, It might even and cause more difficult to wear, that come the from navy down, | closely after these two, the | HE white costume is now com-, the in | are to be worn, or to contrast with it, Colored shoes, or white with color, are worn with t white ensemble, the idea expressed in the other acce rie One does not have to fe care of this type of footw there are cleaning prc) that keep it in condition presents a problem, for it shoes all further the satin and heavy silk shoes in white, | best to match it to the s! to exactly | faint neutrals are preferabl match the frock with which they | stronger shade or color. WHEN COLOR COMPLEMENTS WHITE brighter colors are use with white, not in a solid tone, 1 these details red and whit and white, blue and white or low and white, as the choige First we should consider ! Jacket, so important in the mode, It may be of the type, striped or polka dotted latter smarter because it is 1 | Red, green, blue or yelloy | white, a matching tie on { frock, even a belt, all dotted, and a sports hat of faced with the polk mean that they were smarter, be-| There might be a bag to c« Red | It geems to head the list and after | dles or straps. blues that shade | and following | felts in color, and some we find | accessories and shoes with patterncd There are some stun: confine themsel | green, Completing the list of fav- | headwear and footwear, line | orites we have yellow,-the sunshine | gether with a belt of the ci | color in the sunshine season. (color. Or the jacket may be There is one accessory color, a | solid color, and the hat may match, combination, that is classic--black | Then there are necklaces for these and white, It is not meant that outfits, one of yellow gold for the sible to use them with ensembles | the costume be white and the ac- | yellow ensemble, and a wee bouquet in another the pastels Black footwear with a yellow color, especially a | cessories black, but that the acces- | for the jacket black and |same general scheme--deeper indeed, you will find that ' paler yellows, gories themselves be white, of flowers in tha and PRO) THE WAY OF TRIMMINGS F you are still of the opinion that trimming means a con- trastingl material, a braid, rib- bon, ve the like, then you have not been properly observant of the general fashion trend. The smart- est offerings of the couturieres owe quite as much to the manipulation of fabric as they do to contrast, perhaps more, for the former is the subtlest possible trimming method, When a model has been conceived, then its elaboration be- comes a problem. Bome materials are quite lovely enough in themselves to demand no trimming whatsoever. Then we say that the frock trims itself. A moire evening gown, cut in the newest expression of the robe de style, has nothing added to its original beauty of fabric. One loses nothing of the. glory of tex- ture and sheen when there fs nothing to distract our attention from it. The same is true of a chiffon, moired, and solid In color. The vogue of the chiffon frock is an established one for the sum- mer season, And it rarely ever enlists the ald of anything else, Its pattern would be subdued by an attempt at contrast, although we may mention an exception In the transparent hem of black lace that is offered as ultra smart. Frocks in this group depend upon accessories that stress a desirable color in the pattern for any neces- sary note of contrast, Many of the late June weddings stressed one of the smartest and most subtle trimming themes. Brides and honor maids wore gowns of silks or chiffons, in two or three toned effect shading from a pale tint to a deeper one, or, occasionally, presenting something more like a compose color effect. This set the seal of approval on color 63 a at of expression, and we find it, not alone in formal, but in sports and informal models, A goodly array of sports and - Did You HAT the newest beach wrap C- a decided Eastern atmos- phere, being modeled after the burnous of Moorish origin? It is made of terry cloth, which assures adequate protection from the sun. THAT the newest turban is modeled after the leather helmet worn by the first woman to fly across the Atlantic? It is carried out in velvet and is a most unusual and smart affair, THAT the vogue for the double woven sandal is greater than ever? It is to be had in several color combinations with a low or a Cuban heel, and there are woven calfskin Oxfords as well, THAT it is now possible to have Know -- a handbag for every frock, or near- ly every one? They are made of a dust-resisting straw, in envelope, pouch or bag style, and are mod- erate in price. THAT accessory ensembles In the patriotic combination of red, white and blue, are as popular as ever? And {it is considered smart to have the flower on your coat made of the same silk as the lining, THAT polka dots, and their close relatives, the legal seal and the star dot, are just as popular as ever? They're putting red and blue stars on a white background, this in a belt and kerchief that match, felt dots on straw hats, and white dots and stars on a navy blue bag. utility frocks, featuring wash ma- terials, contains practically every summer color and white. There are combinations of plain and printed fabrics, pleatings, rings, smockings and rutlles, haps there are buckles ar but- tons of pearl, in either white or the colors, but there Js nothing to remind one of the days when trim- mings were selected along with the fabric, and displays featured both, There are so many clever little ensembles of linen, cotton, silk and crepe, and of no one of the many would you say--*It is untrimmed," although in a way of speaking that is the case. The skirt and coat may be made of one material and the blouse of another; it may be a sleeveless jacket affair, using a print for the jacket and a plain material for the dress, but the fabric contrast supplies the trim- ming motif, At times the material is merely the background for elaborate ein- broideries, in some instances, solid effects in glorious jewel or flower colors, In this event the embroid- ery is confined to the skirt, and the cuffs and collar of the blouse, or is applied to the blouse only, the result not dissimilar te the com- bination of two materials. Stitch- ery and the many bits of hand- work that are used are in keeping with the general idea. Coats, at first glance the utmost in simplicity, have clever intricacies of seaming and cut. Small tucks are a feature, and while one can- not call a coat lining anything but an expected part of the garment, it can prove very unique. The coat material can be used as a facing and cut such a way that the inside of the coat will be a very fetching thing indeed. Trim. ming is a matter of effect, rather shir- Per= than means.