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THE DAILY TIMES Certain Things Loom 'As Possibilities for the Winter Season -- They Are Probabilities tor Fall, T is not ditficult, models at hand, to make proph- cles of worth concerning the winter millinery mode, for fall 15, In a way, a try-out time, The lines of our headwear make an almost definite change, although the trend of fashion hus been to- ward that change for some time. And while we are prophesying, we | can enjoy, or the new shapes ure not only intriguing, vut they fea- ture new fabrics In variety. We have already acknowledged the influence of the wider skirt, which makes the wider brimmed hat a real necessity, If symmetry, is to be kept. And symmetry must | be kept at all costs, otherwise the | jaiue of the ensemble idea is les- sened considerably. But the mod- ern mode no longer insists upon a single type, although it may stress It, and so we have the other types that are imperative to general be- comingness. By wider brimmed hat we do not, necessarily, mean the picture hat, or even its near neighbor, rather do we mean the medium- brimmed model that may take lib- erties with the width that it has assumed, for designers have turned their attention to brims, especial- ly their manipulation, And when they think of crowns, there is, usually, ,no brim, for the brimless hat is the other style leader in this preparation season, Materials Are Very Decided As summer gradually gives way to fall, we see more and more of the ubiquitous * felt--what more friendly fabric? It's a material de luxe, so exquisitely soft and pliable has it become, and many times it is trimmed with, or com- bined with, another hat material, Many of the new hats feature soleil, and felt is seen as a trimming on hats of this fine stuff, One {is never sure which will be the choice for the foundation. Hatter"s plush has been returned to favor, and many times it is used to draw clever lines on a hat of another material. It is used as a substitute for the flat, sleek furs, with tall hat: the most important trimming, if we except the use of fabric on fabric and the clever handling of the hat material, The Beret And The Poke Influence Admitting that the medium | brimed and the brimless hat are the two general favorites, we turn to specializatior in both, There will be many turbans, and there | will be shapes that are unique In but Mong somes miter trim- un- was that they cannot he classified, the outstanding theme, at the ment, is the beret, Lines are what intricate, partly in the | est of effect and partly for ming purposes, One rather Usual mouel an 'origmaul, topped by a crystal tassel. iis was lerial was a very soil anu JShiable velvet with Intricate piecing. Mention is made of the use of metallic effects in turbans de- signed for formal afternoon or theater wear. Then there are some interesting wools, into which metal threads are woven, that are used for sports turban purposes. The Arabian note is sounded In some of the turbans, and many of the originals that commanded a great price adopt the turban theme. The cap-like toque, always popular, takes.to turban lines. But we are, probably, more in- terested in the new brimmed hats than in the more familiar brimless ones, The latter are not unfamiliar, although they may be .apearing: in a new guise, but it has been sey- eral seasons since the medium brim has been definitely featured. It is not to be assumed, however, that the medium brim runs straight around without any variation, Its the manipulation of these brims that makes them so interesting. Width And Cutting Are Featured There is, undoubtedly, width of brim, but it repeats the irregular- ity that is a feature of the hemline. The really new theme is the widen- ing of the brim at the sides in tne old-fashioned poke line, although it does not exactly resemble this style as it is not as wide, The brim is shorter in front, which in- creases the illusion, so that one can safely call many of the new hat models modified pokes, even to the crown. Crowns incline to be head-fitting, if such @ phrase may be coined. This, of course, in the brimmed hat, as models of the beret type deviate from such a line. Many times the trimming, placed on one side, accenturates this line--a band developing into a flat orna- ment and dropping to the edge of the droop. Even when the brim is not widened at the sides, the line that bid fair to be a vogue in the fashions. They are used for ex- tremely effective trimmings, and Their expense makes hatter's plush extremely popular in thelr place. be much velvet, for we are being introduced to. a most astounding sembles. Transparent stuffs, both velvet and velveteen, are preferred millinery is bound to take note of the fact. Qrosgrain is, probably, F you have a coat of the last fall season, and its lines are atve, it will fit into the new fall fashions as applied to this gar- | cast eyes upon the EPL past mod- els that are typically of the arriv- eharm and distinction. Even these are diversified, in keeping with the and kinds. Since coats are made of heavier the flared line have been slow In adaptation. But their persistence adoption by the outer garment, and the new coats have flares, theme so widely exploited at the beginni of the © possess movement, the effect ichieved by fabric working. ustrous finishes, in supple fabrics, ve cole to many clever manipula- oat is made. The uneven hemline wppears in a discreet form, usually NEW FALL or tiered theme, The decorative lines seen on frocks--angles, points, curves and scallops--are used on coats and everything in this line is subordinated to an appearance of simplicity. Furs will be used lavishly, when the winter season opens, and they appear on most of the early offer- ings. One sees more of the flat and curly pelts, for they are more generally becoming and more workable. Beaver, krimmer, cara- cul, lamb and Hudson seal are favored, and there are some new flat furs, origin unknown to the layman, that work up attractively. The long furs, as fox, lynx and badger, are not wholly neglected. One notes widely differing mod- els in the collections. A coat of broadcloth has a waist length cape of the fabric and a crush collar and deep cuffs of fur. Another model, of smooth cloth has a band trimming applied in points, the bands overlapping each other. The collar is motched and the cuffs ex- tend in points to the elbow. A third model has a circular cut skirt applied to a straight line top, tri d with 4 millinery fleld, as» well as In fur may be matched to the fur coat. Later in the season, there will variety of velvet frocks and en- fabrics in the general mode, and YOUR I straight and its details conserv- ment. But you longing fing mode, for they hold much of mew policy of pleasing all types fabrics than frocks, movement and in the dress mode made sure their circular cuts and retain the cape Even the straight line coats seem With the achievement of smooth, fons of the goods of which the she result of a dipping tunic effect In the sports group one finds a is flattered, scoopwise, in the poke models, Simplicity Is The Final Effect It is surprising how much one can do with the material of the hat itself without achieving an ef- fect of over elaboration. A brim, running straight around a hat, can be slashed, a bit at the side, and turned up against the crown In front and fastened with a slide, an ornament or a buckle. Face that brim with another material, per- Laps In another color, and a smart effect Is obtained through line and fabric or color contrast. In a hat of super fine felt a crown Is made wholly close-fitting, and the brim is so cut that it be- gins the flare or turn-back at the side. It is faced, this brim, with transparent velvet or hatter's COAT model of black and white tweed, cut straight of line, but trimmed around the hem edge with a quilt- ed pattern. Its cuffs are of the fabric, but it has a collar of fur. Another coat, also of tweed, is flared from the shoulder. There is a set-in, pointed yoke that ex- tends down onto the sleeves, and the collar is scarf type. as and the two sides are folded effect, brimless hat. a brim in baek and more than the suspicion of a brim plush, over each other, giving the in front, of a close, Yet there is at the sides. The brim is fastened with an ornament. The Value Of Appliques Many of the best-liked shapes have a straight around crown, if one forgets droop and flare, and they are made smart and effective with appliques that find their way down onto the brim from the erown. Sometimes a real pattern, simulating a banding, is carried out. Again, there is a solid ap- plique that Is curved, or angled in the newest lines that are called modernistic, and are, eithin rea- son, very smart indeed. There will be hats with narrow brims, of course, for everyone cannot wear a poke line or a hat that flares away from the face. A yer) great many find the brimless hat impossible, and this assures a wide variety of the modern ver- sion of the cloche and {ts allies. Need for width will revive the hopes of the picture hat, and with- out doubt there will be many wide- brimmed models offered, and worn. Also without doubt, many of them will be {incorrectly worn, both as to type and the individual. THEY CALL THE [(( od we say that a color is green, then qualify by pro- nouncing it a blue-green, we are speaking of an overtone, and a shade that is extremely important in the new mode. And this is good, for we know that many women who cannot wear a color that is tinged with red, can wear it if its high lights are yellow or blue. It will be seen that we go more deep- ly, every season, into the science of color and color combinations. When we find an overtone, which is, briefly, a color in which other colors are recognized, we find a very lovely thing. There are beiges that show a tint of gray--if enough we give it a name of its own and M "OVERTONES" mauve. Brown, exceedingly im- portant in the mode, may be touched with red, with mauve or with purple. And so it is through- out the color card, a thing of in- teresting and subtle distinctions. Names are amusing, for they pique our interest, yet do not mat- ter at ali! A smart little felt hat is labeled "Prune color," apd it's really brown with purple lights. Grackle is purple blue, tokay is a reddish brown, acajou a brown red, marble is a combination of black and white, and so it goes through a long, long list. Which is important only as it shows the part that color is playing in the call it grege, of yellow and of new fall fashions. THE VOGUE OF VELVET T is a foregone conclusion that velvet and satin will be very generally worn, this fall, Ity sophistication appeals to the woman who prides herself upon her smartness, and its beauty is undeniable, so the reason for its popularity is not the fact that it is sponsored by every leading de- signer but its own special charm. We group them as one because they are luxury mategjals, and be- cause they will share in fashion prominence. We have looked upon satin as a between-season fabric fur many years, and since It is, In a way, somewhat lighter In weight, it will be the first to achieve an assured position. In this material we shall see all of the new fashion features, the telling detafls that are to dis- tinguish the forming winter mode. It Is to details that we owe both variety and change, and they are the most Important (feature of fashion at the moment. Every erigipator is emphasizing satin, and fs using this lustrous fabric In widely different ways. Printed satins will be popular, or at least, they should be, for they are not only beautiful, but usable. Intricacy of cut is the dominating feature of the newest models, and the yoked or molded hipline, the softly draped neckline, and skirts with originality of flare and eir- cular flounce are generally pre- sented. We are rather more accustomed to black satin, or white, if it be evening, than the satins in color, but one of the vogues of the mo- ment is beige satin, rather a relief from the monotony of the usual somber hue. If black possesses elegance, so, too, does beige, and there are clever uses of both sides of the material, kerchief or scarf detalls, and amusing flares. We grow more and more intrigued with this color as time goes on. One is impressed with the idea that the vogue for satin wiii be nothing compared to the vogue for velvet, especially the transparent weave. One hears more of the ter than of the classic stuff, printed transparent velvet seems more important than the plain. In this supple weave it is most flatter- ing to the figure, and mo one will deny the elegance of a skillfully The HAY. of fA L222 |] 'CHOOSING FINE == FURNITURE. Hedi, is never 4 ume when the housewife is not interest- | d In furniture, and rarely, it ver, a time when she is not Le wing or desiring some special piece, And occasionally there comes the need to refurnish a room, or find the furnishings for additional space, And modern conceptions have changed, so much, indeed, that it is really imperative that one study them before making even a nominal investment, Occasionally one finds an entire home furnished in a certain period. More often it is a single room, and even more often than either, sev- eral periods combine to create a harmonious and homey effect. It is the study of a lifetime to present all the data necessary for the really correct identification of every sep- arate plece of every separate period, but there are a few things that everyone should know and make use of the knowledge. We have long ago given up the idea "that a room must be fur. nished in complete suites, although the davenport may have matching easy chairs, and there may be something for a background against which to bulld, It should always be borne In mind that the unused thing, the unsatisfactory thing, or the out-of- place thing is the most extravagant thing In existence. And if one has a fine feeling of economy even so small an item as a kerchief may teach a lesson in careful buying. And whether It be easy chalr, in- cidental table, or the furnishments for an entire room, the selection should be made only after careful consideration and inspection, Few can afford antiques, and some, who can, prefer to invest their money in other ways. This is n result of the clever cabinet and cut frock in the new arresting colors. If you have doubted the fashion prominence of prints in the new mode, you have only to pay a visit to a fabric display. Not only the satins and velvets, but the silks, feature them prominently, and combinations of plain and printed materials are continued, with va- riations, To mako the situation more Interesting, patterns have been cha so that an expert can tell yhe season of the design, as of the model itself, Small patterns seem to be the general favorite, and there Is a distinctly modernistic trend, but ft Is not a bold conception of the idea. Color shading Is an impor- tant feature, and there is some clever use of ombre and compose effects, applied to the figures of the design. One suspects that one's accessories will accent a single color, as was the case in the afternoon mode of printed chiffon, when jewel tones were the choice. Some of the new velvets show patterns that seem to have copled the tweeds, even the homespuns, and this appeals as a distinct novelty. They offer, as an Induce- ment for the use of these velvets, the appealing fact that they do not show crushing, and we are well aware of the fact that this is a distinct advantage. There are patterns, also, that employ polka dots, checks and stripes, in designs originally conceived. Many of the weaves are so light and transparent that they can be incorporated into the early fall fashions. This material is both a daytime and an evening possibility, and it makes both simple and' in- tricate frocks, as well as the youth- ful models that appeal to so many. Of course, we may expect black, and for immediate wear the au- tumnal colors, espécially the range of browns, and the jewel tones are another favorite group. Weaving its way in and out through the story of fashion, we -| have the idea that nothing is more wholly elegant than velvet, with lace. You will find that some of the most beautiful of the new models in velvet are lace-trimmed, perhaps it were better to say--lace touched. And some of the more SATIN formal satin frocks use this lovely stuff to complete the idea of for- mality and of femininity, for lace is a symbol of both, Usually this lace takes on a cream or ecru tint, and certain laces seem to be preferred, among them the cobwebby Alencon and renaissance lace, the latter quaint- ly different. And batiste and point d'esprit, exquisitely hand-embroid- ered, ind a place on some of the models. It is applied in collar and cuff sets, in jabots or revers or deep yokes, and it edges the decol- lete effect that results from pointed yokes of flesh-toned chiffon. A handbag, designed for the traveler, comes in two parts. It is sturdy of construction and is out- fitted in the usual way, the second part designed for passports and pa- pers of importance. It may be had in calfskin and In various reptilian leathers. work of fUfniture makers of this period, for it is possible to find in their work, not only exact repro- ductions of old pleces--so accurate that only an expert can tell them from the originals--but adapta- tions, sufficiently modernized to meet the new needs of present-day lite. It is not difficult for many of us to recall the harsh lines and utter absence of comfort that character ized the pieces in the old-time "parlor," which was, in many homes, opened only upon state oc- casions--and Sundays! Many of these same pleces have been used as models for adaptations that pos- sess frames of graceful outline, thelr lines shortened or lengthened, spread or narrowed, curved or straightened, as the need was found, This makes it possible to pus chase even the least expensive type in really excellent lines, many of the pieces showing unmistakable influences of a distinct period type, yet cosmopolitan enough to fit into any room, One may not, of course, confuse painted with walnut or mahogany pleces, although lag- quered pleces are very frequently depended upon to lend a note of color to a room that might, others wise, be too somber, One is met, in any search for an Incidental or occasional plece, with a bewildering array of types and wpods. Chippendale, Hepplewhite, Sheraton, Queen Anne, the French and Italian offerings, our own Co= lonial pieces, all these have thelr own individual charm, but are not equally good In every setting. For it must not be overlooked, the fact that walls, windows, floors and their decorative coverings have much to de with effect, And not only with effept, with correctness, for where chintaes and cretonnes are the expected thing there may be nothing of the heavies types that ask for, even demand, brocades, Again, the skilled adviser is n , and i will be a simple matter for him to select for you the very plece you need, something that will become a part of the room for which it ls designed, seeming to have always been there, There are devotees of the differ ent woods, chief among them wals nut and mahogany. We find, in genuine antiques, certain colors of mahogany that: it is dificult to get, today. In general, the wood is much darker in tone, but there is nothing, to many, loveller than firelight or candlelight on mahog- any, and, Incidentally, gleaming brasses. These are the two 'back-~ ground woods" in the fine art of furniture, Maple is a wood that we claim as American, and charming early American pieces are made of it, In it we find the adorable gate- leg, butterfly and tavern type tables, and chairs that are quaint with their rush bottoms. With such a table and its complement of chairs, would go an old-time "cup~ board," reminiscent of New Eng- land farm houses. The wise buyer is, in truth, the buyer whe is will- THE prov (1) It is to be » season of effective LriMBINGs. combinations of materia] and color that the efiects will through be achieved, In this model soft Jeather Ja hued a0 4 brimmed felt