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THE DAILY TIMES > F020 oF SAS A/C - ET It Shows Progress Along Certain Lines-- Interesting Developments Lend nusual Interest. It T is time to take account of stock, so far as the new mode 1s concerned, time to make com- i parisons with the mode that has {ust passed, proving many things and discovering others, And it is pleasant to report that there Is ' nothing really radical about the changes that have been made, for changes there must be and changes we have come to expect, We may, however, go so far as to prophesy a steady development along certain lines. . If you are intrigued by the ele- gance, formality and utter femin- inity of the newest styles yet feel that they are in danger of losing the qualities that you so thorough- ly approve, then you can Bet your mart at rest, Indications point to & vunitinuance of these themes for an indefinite period, and a further- ance of everything that makes for becomingness and true individual- ity, The outlook is pleasant to contemplate, Lest you be misled by this rather general statement, it is well to re- . mark that your frocks of last au- tumn will not be correct when viewed from the style criterions of this autumn, Four seasons ago this new idea was Inaugurated, and during the intervening months it has been steadily progressing to- ward a beauty and refinement that seems limitless In its application, That progress will continue, for a time, at least, Certain Outstanding Themes When we speak of the mode we include headwear, footwear and all the necessary costume details as well as frocks and wraps, The | latest mode features many things, i some of them outgrowths, \ others | immediate vogues, not new ideas necessarily, but the stressing of things that have been, hitherto, relatively unimportant, And the featured themes touch every item of the costume, for change is im- perative to fashion. At the moment the fit-and-flare silhouette is the featured one, There are others, but preference is shown for this interesting combina- tion of lines, which is an outgrowth of another fit-and-flare idea, the bodice and the full skirt, The new interpretation begins the flare well down on the skirt, continuing the molded line to within a few inches pf the hemline, which continues to stress a decided, and different, rregularity, Assymetrical effects are popular, nd the right hand of many models 'mows nothing of what the left hand is doing. It effects hemlines, and the dip often occurs on one side and is absent on the other. Fashion seems to like diagonal ef- fects, and many of the costumes stress this line in their decoration --an example offered in the smart cloth costume suit designed for town and trotteur wear, Shadowing Everything--The Ensemble No matter what {ts purpose, the completed costume must possess harmony of line, color and fabric, hut always the ensemble is smart» est when it is unexpected, Subtle combinations of the various ele- ments that go to make up the whole are preferred to those that are obvious. But nothing is cor- rect, this season, that is not found- ed on the general prineiple of the ensemble--parts, in harmony with each other, and in harmony with the whole. The autumn mode is making mueh of the jacket suit, comprised of a pleated skirt, more often than | not, and a hip-length jacket, We! note box pleats, and both loose and fitted jackets, and following In logical order, there are sults with three-quarters length coats, This is proof, and there are many other proofs, of the variety that is an- other general characteristic of the mode, assuring the required in- dividuality, The furred coat is another item that is very generally featured, Any attempt to find a dress coat that is not lavishly trimmed with fur is truly a hopeless adventure, The woman who has broad shoulders and a short neck disap- pears from view in many of the collars that are so smartly becom ing to the slender woman. Try a collar that runs its fur away from the lapels, instead of with them-- it works wonders, Frock Details Are Interesting The new frock will prove a reve- lation, for its skirt will have tiers or flounces or flares achieved In some subtle way; a molded hipline, perhaps, that somehow or other mapages to suggest the normal waistline; and, of course, the irreg- ular hemline, New models show a tendency to an up-in-the-front movement at the waistline, achieved in many instances by the applica- tion of trimming, bands a favorite medium, There are so many applications of the idea of assymetry and of diagonals that they are bound to effect the neckline, which shows a AwORD ABOUT TH --=-- COIFFURE N_hour in a beauty parlor will tell'the story of the colf- 'ure in its present phase of length. It will convince you tht 'hair is short, but not always bbbed, and you will arrive at your eaviction by a perfectly logical rate, . You will see women hay- $n thelr first "bob," women who ar letting thelr hair grow, and boi Fond have let it grow, but an it cut off again-- ' "shrter than ever, please!" 'with clothes, hair is versa- 'e are learning to find the doing" it that is most and then keeping to Aha way. But, all things being bar, cofled about her head or piled ppon it, is as out of the modern Ribu as the woman who wears boots. { There is no evidence to prove that short hair is more easily taken many instances the evi- the opposite direction. are to be found in in- 2 hair cut needs an occasional trim, without a. wave, or is patural. Yet into a well-kept is time well spent, for nothing as conspicuous as one's colffure. 2 7, preference tor 'the V-neck, when it is not diverted to follow a trim- ming line that seems to scorn even ways for irregularity, The satin frock, with its thread lace fichu, is an excellent example of this idea, for it seems to change the V-line to an uneven one with Its own unevenness, Vog In The A y Field Headwear is showing a most un- usual independence, offering us close little hats that are smart on some and tragedies on others. They all seem to stress irregularity, for there is hardly a brim that con- tinues as It starts, and the hat that is wholly brimless is, at the moment, smartest---and most dif- cult, Fur and fur felts and hat- ter's plush are in great favor, and trimmings are luxurious, but scant, Color In footwear fis another contribution to fashion, inspired hy the very great need for shades that would harmonize with the new, odd, shades of red, green and blye, And to make the situation more interesting there is a wide variety of materials in every color, fitting the models into every type of en- semble, whether it require suede, fine leather, reptilian skins, satin, velvet or even brocades, Lasts, differ, also. . It is now possible to find neck- laces of simulated jade that have much of the pure, translucent beauty and soft green coloring of the old Imperial jade. They are specially beautiful with many of the flowered frocks or with white, In spite of the fact that the art of permanent waving is rapidly be- coming a fine one, there should be assurance of its worth-whileness before it is undertaken, for there is nothing more tedious than walit- ing for an unwanted wave to grow out. If you are skeptical, try the marcel wave, deciding upon the width and then achieving it in a permanent. Beware of too many E tremely becoming, and an increase of the wave merely makes it seem artificial, And some find a close cut, sleekly arranged, the smartest of all ways to wear the hair. Brushing and careful shampooing have much to do with appearance, If you possess a healthy scalp and luxurious hair, then beware of attempting to color the latter. It can be accented, so to speak, but dyeing is, more often than pot, fatal to beauty, for it gives an ap- pearance of artificiality, Nature knows the color that is best with your complexion, and when it be- gins to turn white, it is best to leave it so, curls, subjected to too mueh heat-- only fuzziness results, will be far more becoming If it is left to itself, so far as a8 wave Is kept, slightly wayy hair that is ex- Did You C lored frocks of our old friend covert cloth? They are prov- for street wear and for shopping. The slender line one-piece frock is cardigan costume, considered very chie. llance, is the latest edict from Paris? The black ensemble will with tones of fire red or jade green or a subtle blue. And this rule fis These are times when the hair concerned. Many heads show well- HAT they are making trim, tai- ing not only smart, but practical to be had in this material and the THAT black, relieved by bril- have a brilliantly colored blouse applicable throughout the entire Know -- list of possibilities, day and eve. ning. THAT there are several costume jewelry fashions of unusual charm in the autumn collections? Crystal and cabachon-cut semi-precious stones continue popular, and cable- link jewelry, made up of strands of silvery metal and very small imita- tion pearls, delicately interwoven, is new, THAT grey ls being featured as an all-oceasion color? It begins with the tone kmown as grege, really a combination of grey and beige, and proceeds through many shades to steel grey. | J HE instant reaction to any mention of Christmas shop- ping is the Ipevitable--"Why! I haven't time for it now!" As a matter of fact, you have, and if you plan at all well, you will do all the necessary things in less time during the next month than you could ever do them when De- cember arrives, for it is the signal that gets everyone making out lists and haunting the stores. For holiday shopping is 2 real problem. Their same old reasons are of- fered, of course, but they are as good today as they hdve ever been. More leisure onthe part of the sales people, who are, after all, the ones who suffer most from the late Then, too, you need not take the thing you do not want because you have no time to find the thing you do. You can buy when you find, if you make your plans right. Stocks are replete with novelties, many of them sure to find a ready | market. The usual things are now SHOPPING FOR CHRIS TITAS | eration, and that list should item- | ze, shopper, is an advantage to you. | | parcel FARLY to be had in all colors, sizes and types, but later it will be difficult to find gloves, let us say, in the style, color and size required, and it will be the same with hosiery and the entire accessory group. For even the most prodigal stock will be broken when Christmas demands are made upon it. After all, this business of holiday shopping is a gigantic one, and if cach shopper would systematize her effort, much more of comfort would result, both tp those who buy and those who 'sell. A Tist, flexible enough to permit of a choice, should be the first copsid- not only the gifts, but the money allotment for each one, the total allowance fitting one's budget. Shopping early saves, mot only time and strength, but money, for | the needed thing at the allowed price is then obtainable, The | something that must be made to! do is always more expensive, and' far from as satisfactory, for it is a' Sede post, and It will also tell vou how to wrap correctly, If you must be economical, plan gifts for mailing that are small, keeping down your postage bill. See that you have enough stamps on hand for all the cards you will send, and have your parcels on their way ten days or two weeks before Decem- ber twenty-fifth, ~~ Sailing th 2% HER [o travel C casons, nowadays. But there | i always special travel needs, are adventurous folk micking their first trip overseas, as | well as the confirmed tourist, who | special auu there feels the urge of new places ever beckoning, And the needs of all travelers, old or new, are being considered by the makers of our fashions In frocks, accessories and the inevitable luggage, The real problem, if one is to travel continuously, "is laundry. One's own freshness depends, oft- entimes, upon the freshness of her apparel, and underthings that #an be washed out by hand, re uiring no ironing, are imperative, Some find the seersucker crepes a solu- tion of this problem, but glove silk is the most luxurious, and at the same time the most practi al fabso for the purpose. > It be readily rinsed out in one's hotel room, and one's choice should be the tailored garments that are best for the process. The little things of the tolist--gloves, hosiery and underwear may sll be can | chosen with self-gervice In mind, when it comes to laundering them, And once | again, a plea for the sales folk | who look ahead to the holidays! with a dread that ls out of keeping | with the professed spirit of the ' season--buy eariy and leisurely. | A really adequate Christmas! shopping list will add to its names and items and prices the required size and color, so that time can be saved by asking for the article and specifying details. And there will be a supplementary list grouping similar articles--again according to details of size, color and so forth, Much of the labor attendant on this task can be done at home, at one's leisure. The sample books of Christmas Greeting Cards are ready. now. Soon the individual cards will be on the market and one can fill her peeds from a selection that is very | wide, It is ap excellent idea to! write the mame of the one for] whom the card is intended on the inside of the flap of the enveiope' at the time qf the purchase, then there will be no mistake or con- fusion, and cross the name from the list at the same time. From a survey of your list you! will know what you will need for | wrappings, and you should be sure that you have ribbon and tissue and stout paper and twine, not to mention parcel post tags, adequate to the purpose of making your gifts ready for delivery. Seals and i stickers and all the little things: are hard to reach through the mob of frenzied buyers inmmediately be- fore the holiday itself. i From your post office you can obtain a book that will show you | what wou can and <end cannot Washable gloves, of suede, chamols or doe-skin answer travel purposes admirably, and are to be had in white, yellow and other colors (THE FUR-LINED COAT HE past few winters have pop~ C ularized the coat with a fur lining, which is, oftentimes, re- versible, so that it can be worn with the fur side out. There fia nothing of the bulk that character- ized the first attempts at such a garment, for both the wools and the pelts are supple and workable, qualities that they did not, in other days, possess, The new models are unusually distinguished, Both sports and afternoon coats are offered, and there are types for Madame as well as for Madamol- selle. In the sports group we find many tweeds, in The gray and tan tones, combined with furs that carry out the color scheme satias factorily Youth, which is slim, approves the coat with a collar of long fur--as raccoon, fox, and the like--the collar itself oftentimes & huge, mushroom affair, Let us suppose, for example, that | a tweed coat in some soft shade of tan is the choice. Such a coat may have a stunning shawl! collar and cuffs of dark raccoon fur. It may be lined with weasel, stenciled to represent baranduki. Stenciled furs are much in demand for lin. ing purposes, and kid takes the stenelling attractively, Goatskin or susiiki fur are also used for lining purposes. ! Kashmir is an attractive woolen, { its ellky texture in Veeping with | the feeling for luaury that is char. acteristic of the mode. ~ Skunk fur is used for the collar on 'uch & | coat, or fox, always beautiful, or ! beaver or rock sable. Dyed rabbit makes a soft, warm lining, but its wearing qualities are hardly to be recommended. These coats are cus in slim, conservative lines, Ee Seven Seas! fhere should be an ample supply of hosiery, to meet every need, Silk and wool for sports, service weight for general wear and chif« fons for evening, when necessary. | The value of personal attention to the care of hosiery cannot be overs estimated, for they repay that care both sartorially and financially, The new silk and wool stockings are smartest when they show plain colors, rather than patterns. Tweed is the logical choice for travel purposes, and the ensemble made up of four pleces is prefera» ble to any other style, A jacket and skirt of the tweed will be sup- plemented by blouses of jersey or knit material of some sort, and with the three pleces there will be an overcoat--Ilong--of the tweed, Some of the newest models display an Innovation In the matter of finish, for they are fringed. Luggage must be smart, cons venient and roomy. There are en» sembles made up of hat-box, suit- case and overnight case, with space sufficient to accommodate a falr sized wardrobe, For the ocean traveler, there is 8 "pony" trunk, designed to fit under the berth, which has garment hangers, laun- dry bag, shoe box and dust curtain in approved wardrobe style, ' THE PICTURES (1° The well-groomed woman looks to her coiffure, News con- cerning it Is always acceptable--~the latest being an increased trend toward the bob, after vain attempts to And a more becom- ing fashion. But if long hair your personality, it sh h bh you or (2) A good example of yarions and ap elaborate brocade are Then there is the matter of ornamental buckle and assymetrical id be the pre style developments, Velvet, fur main factors in this model. subtly draped skirt with its hemline hip- line and the near-to-normal waistline, (3) An exactly right hat for the face it frames. One this sleek little feathered helmet-cap with its mercury de side, and connects it with the general vearls about tle throst and a fur scarf thrown ders complete the rich effect, (4) When the ensemble theme lines and embroideries are the points of interest is applied to in suit, which links the blouse to the cost by this attractive od. in a town rostume of this type .here is opportunity sariety, since many things contribute '0 its nske-up. 8) A two-piece frock of novelty transparent velvet. Its the rich trimming in the same color tones. (6) A satin frock with assymetricsl tine takes on an appearance application of a fine lace fichu. of The one side, follows the hemline, and srother dipping of the latter. 1 1 the jack impression is that of a separate skirt and cost, for the influence of the popular jacket-suit is apparent.