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Halk EL f= 74% A = \ RR 7 "A < 4 S/S The Element of Luck Does Not Enter Into Their Selection -- More Than Ever Betore, Rules Exist, HIMSICAL things, the new hats, but charming when they express correctly the individuality of the wearer, Yur some they are, apparently, especially designed, but for others they are, in the main, impossible, If you wear a brimless hat well, ar can look smart without so much a8 a wisp of hair showing, then you will be "in clover" so far as the millinery field is concerned, Dut the situation is complicated, Just now, Of the pictured group of hats uit, Vvpssibly two, have a slight resemblance to familiar types, The pom-pom hat with its cloche lines and the hroad-brimmed hat with {ts "bob" trim placed under the brim, The other five are either brimless or possess Irregularities that set them apart as types, and they must be worn by types, Ma- terials alone, of plushy or velvet softness, are te be generally recom- mended, Few women can wear a hat that has a brim so wide In the back that it conceals the neckline, The shape of the hat with the marten tall trimming is more generally he- coming, but so decided an off-the- side line is trying to most. The close little helmet hats demand a perfect profile and a figure that warrants a tight hat, The second broad-brimmed hat adopts new features that make it impractical for general adoption, Ci tion Of G al Rules Perhaps there has never been a season when there was such varlety, and it Is, therefore, more impera- tive that we never lose sight of the rules that should always gov- ern selection, The first rule Is, undoubtedly, "Know thyself!" and make that knowledge thorough. Helght and breadth and neckline and the shape of the face are all factors in that knowledge, And there are other considerations that are important. Probably there is no single thing that has the power to ruin one's appearance which the hat possesses, who wears glasses. HEspecially is this true, this season, when the brimless hat is a style leader, for the woman who wears glasses must wear a brim, And it must not droop too much, the idea being to shadow the glasses, not make them more prominent, But before we proceed further with the general rules governing hat selection it is well to stress the fact that the hat chosen while its wearer is sitting down 8 not likely to prove a success, even though it may be satisfactory be- fore a triple mirror that shows | back, sides and front, It should be | in proportion with the entire figure | a8 well as frame the face, and | should have the criticism of a full- { length mirror. The Large Woman's lint So many large women wear large hats, Very tall women seem serve to make the large woman look larger and the tall woman taller, And the same rule applies to trimming--Iit should not be broad for the former, or high for the latter, Many women who are stout like themselves, when seated, in a broad-brimmed h but may not remain seats indefinite --walking, a narroyv. urim is best. Broad brims do not become the small woman---there should be a narrow, straight brim, for a droop, Ing brim serves to increase the appearance of shortness. can wear a rolling brim or a brim- less hat, then these should he her choice, Small features demand small brims and crowns; broad faces need a brim, drooped a bit, and it may not be wider than three or four inches. Long, slender faces require a narrow dropping brim. Consider the slant of the hat in relation to the profille--if you have A retrousse nose you must avold a pertly up-turned brim; if your nose is prominent, the hat line must not repeat or accent it. One authority gives a general rule---there are al- ways exceptions, of course, and No one thing is as important as the hat that will become a woman rer dictates lines that repeat the lower lines of the face, If they are aver- te a a PSUS SSR | to like them toe. And they really | If she | one | { | | age or really good. Be sure the hat fits tightly about the head, this is important, THE BRIDGE SEASON OPENg F you know your sheps, you |before offering this consolation |decoration contrived from playing, have certainly been impressed with the rapid growth of the charming little places that func- tion as "gift shops," and cater, not plone to the woman who seeks a birthday or holiday remembrance, but to the world of women who are seeking bridge prizes, large and small. Evep the department stores give over a generous space to this specialized business of gifts and prizes. It is an accepted fact that one ean raise money for anything by giving 8 bridge. For it Is the favorite Indoor sport during the winter months, this fascinating game, and there are always women with leisure to fll the tables. But to stage a different affair is rapidly becoming a real problem, and it is this problem that manufacturers and retallers are striving to solve succeeding, too, Regular bridge clubs abound, and the shops cater to the setting up of the bridge tables, beginning with complete outfits in five pleces ~a table and four chairs, and end- ing with tallies, pads, cards of meny kinds and conveniences for the smoker. And all of these ac- to the game have been designed with the game alone in mind, Atting into the setting with a perfection that is gratifying. Some of the clubs have a first snd second prize, with, perhaps a "booby," sithough one hears the oocasiopal complaint that the lat- ter is detrimental to the game, inasmuch as some women, not good at the game, "play for it." prize. In other clubs there is a season, or two, or even three, But whatever the arrangement, there is need of novelty to keep pace with demand. Big public bridges are held everywhere, and this means a prize to a table, and it one plays often, there is danger of duplication or of the accumu- lation of "junk," that merely sits around and catches dust. Who would dust, with a bridge game in prospect? So there Is a deelded end toward usable, practical ings attractively presented, At a recent bridge the prizes were silk stockings, but they were offered in clever hoxes shaped like a spade, heart, diamond or club, and they came already boxed that way. Not a woman present, but could find a use for such a prize. Nothing to lle around and cumber up the house, and in its way, typical of what a prize should be. Something that can be used and discarded when worn out. There are many prize possibili- ties In the requirements of the game fitself, for cards grow sticky and solled after a few games, and there is always need of score pads and pencils, table markers and tallies. Boxes already packed with the necessary things for a game may be trite and far from unusual, but many women welcome them and choose them, when a choice is offered, first of all. Cards, espe- cially, make welcome prizes. The tendency to associate the prize with the game is seen in a This, naturally, lowers their part- pers' score and sets one thinking clever little box that holds a fine French soap. The box itself has a prize to a table, or a prize for the | Jacur and the four cakes of soap | are shaped in the four suits. An-| other box has four kings of the four suits, In a general way the! various toiletries can be recom-| mended--bath crystals or bath | tablets, attractively bottled or! boxed, ap example. The flair for dressing up one's' closets apd the drawers of bureau or chiffonler offer a suggestion. Attractive paper covered hoxes, for | hats, sults, hosiery and the small | things we are always losing are to be had at a price well within reason. Then there are the fittings for closets--hat stands, padded hangers, shoe trees and the like, | and there are decorative glass bot- | tles for the bathroom shelves, An odd prize at a recent bridge was a gay box of fireside matches --'chintz matches," they were called. Candles are always ac- ceptable, especially when they come in attractive boxes. We can always use them, for candles melt and fade in spite of care. One firm is putting out gay round boxes of hand-dipt candles--after all the boxes is the thing, for it needs no extra wrapping. THE NEWEST COLORINGS I'TUMN sports modes feature A: very great deal of brown, and learns from the Polo matches, the races and the golf gallery what fashion is sponsoring for this special purpose, About this color as a nucleus the costume is built, and the range of possibili- ties is appealingly wide, not only in type but in materials and lines. Suits and assembled ensembles are approved, both keeping to shades of this color. Frocks of tweed, jersey and wool crepe are worn with the soft, rough tweed coats that are so swagger. Then there are costume sults made entirely of tweed, planned for this use. There are smart frocks of crepe or of satin, and they are one | worn with coats of velveteen, and there are sweater and coat apd skirt combinations, as well. Felt hats, suede and reptile and calf- skin shoes, the latter with match- ing handbags, are approved. They are featuring a range of colors known as 'Gypsy shades' in the smart shops. They are planned for wear under dark coats in a neutral or harmonizing tone, and they are the gayer for the dull background. Deep, smouldering tones of red, brilliant blues, new greens and purples, lively yellows are worn against a background of black or brown, and the preferred choice of a material is flat crepe. The wine shades are %)ing fea- tured, the glowing reds and purples Incidentally there is a new "holder" out that will prove a blessing to the hostess in two ways --At will make her tables atigactive and will serve as a prize af It is a card holder that sets up- right on the table, accommodating two decks of cards and a score card and pencil. It is pot only useful, but it is decorative, ond one is never hunting for pencil or | pad--it keeps them compactly. well. | that associate with the vine- yard and the rich products thereof. | Bordeaux and vin de rouge are | afternoon colors, offered in after- noon fabrics, and théh there is dubonnet for evening--burgundy clarct. Tulle for the junior velvet for madame, are eve- material choices, and the of color, combined with the of fabric is irresistible. | we { | and {and ming beauty beauty Nw --r rsh ©@ LACE ASSUMES IMPORTANCE T never necessary to make an excuse or give a reason for the presence of lace In a mode, It is so lovely that we ire happy (o have it, however it I :ppens to be! Hut we are inclined t. suspect that its prominence at t} : moment is due to several things- -its own rare beauty, the inclinatior toward foy mality---it is a forma fabrie, and its loveliness in com! nation with velvet, the acknow :dge fabric leader for fall and w iter. Whatever the rei son popularity, it is eve) /wher both in the afternoor and at eve- ning affairs. It is delightful in an ensemble made up of a velvet coat and a lace frock, and when we take 'into consideration the color possibilities, we are even more intrigued with this material. Even a single model will convince us that {ts place In the formal daytime mode needs nothing to act as sponsor for It. A long-sleeved frick of slate- blue lace---a color th it is most im- portant at the mon ent--has side draperies caught In place with an ornamental pin. An uneven hem- | line, thought out, we are certain, to offer opportunity to the wide ¥ a short or a long coat as a part | of our winter ensen ble, But she | | proceeds to offer such alluring | costumes that featire the short] jacket that we suspect her of fav- | oring this type. Some cannot] wear it at all, and some wear it| only indifferently well, but if you wear it smartly, be sure that one | costume features it, for Paris Is exploiting it. It will, probably, be the first time that the usual fall vogue for the suit with a short coat did not fall from favor wlien the leaves | fell from the trees. More models and smarter ones are appearing | every day, and man) of the smart | frocks have taken on jacket de-| talls, so that we are in a guandry | as to the status of he ensemble. | Some of the designers like the! tight fitting jacket, while others | incline to the loose type. There! | are boxed jackets ar 1 jackets with | a flare. In general it can be said | that the beautiful pl.ability of ma- | terials makes of 'he jacket | workable thing that it recally a part of the dress, and is 1 for its seen, ABHION, in a g:nerous mood, | tells Us that we can wear either | S50 a mee ms itl | with CONSIDER THE JA lace same cdging in a deeper tone of the slate' blue. The rest of the frock is quite plain, and it is worn W i coat of the deeper slate- blue velvet lined with moire in the | tone of the frock, The idea of bordering one color with another is meeting with ap- proval Two shades beige, beige brown, hlack and sap- phire or rose, American just suggestions, pre- for evening, although they fit into the afternoon scheme. And just to be amusing, they are wear- ing little "cocktail" jackets of the lace, edged with the trimming lace. And the jackets are quite as sleeve- less as the frock. Sometimes they trim a lace frock satin moire, and if there is need, as there sometimes is, of stiffening the lace for flare or bouffant line, the lace is backed with a stiff silk, as taffeta--isn't that new and old-fashioned both? They use chiffon and Georgette as trimmings for lace, and although we know that lace is used on vel- vet, we are not as familiar with a velvet-trimmed. lace gown. It edges, makes bows, and encrusted trimmings. of and blue, red or beauty bly or RD A CKET SUIT matehes contrasts in accopd- ance with the designers wandering fancy. Velvet seems a favorite material. A model of printed velvet has a straight line frock and a jacket that is cleverly bloused (nto a fitted hipline, so that the costume assumes the appearance of a bloused dress. In another model there is a bloused frock and a jacket that repeats the blouse and | the fitted hipline, but adds a ruffle below the latter, seeming more like the separate garment that it is. It notable that these jacket suits may be very formal affairs. Ba a] Assembling a Knitted Costume is UTUMN has brought the knitted | the front of | costume well to fashion, and stressed the use of color rather more strongly than for the past few seasons. Sweater frocks are offered for the Junior, the de ante and the college girl, the mainstay of the ward- the who indulges Lovely for general wear, and are robe for woman in sports | | | | | | knitted | more as well, they are associated with | tweed, which makes the correct coat to supplement them. Jumper and skirt, both in a! fabric, may take two or] colors in combination, and | the lovely greens, reds, blues and | hrowns are everywhere apparent. | Individuality lies in effective color | combinations, and with so many | shades of so many colors there is| | ments | variety. | ity little excuse for lack of individual- Incidentally, though it has nothing to do with color, the tuck-in jumper is very smart, if {it can be worn becomingly. The combining of knitted gar- with those of tweed has proven so satisfactory in every way that there are now specially de- signed skirts and sweaters, so that the former and the latter match, making an ultra smart effect. And the idea of the ensemble is carried turther, a scarf being added to the outfit--tweed skirt and tweed scarf | back | types, | Te | IN | MONG the many coat themes Row have been offered so far, there is none more luxuriously interesting than the one with the fur border. Sometimes there is a combining of another theme with this, and we are, of course, inter- ested in every trend. Some model: seem to focus attention on the of the model, while others stress the flare to the elimination of everything else. Then there is the princesse silhouette. There are tweed coats of several very important models made of rough tweeds, fur-trimmed or fur-less, and belted or straight as the case may be, Another theme is the coat with a full ani- mal, or more than one, used as a collar. But designers seem to stress the lavishly furred coat, with a border ingeniously applied, And it is interesting to note the many ways that these exotic border lines take. In one model, an import, the border is an oddly rounded affair, and in another, also a model, it confines the border to the corner alone. An animal scarf serves to make a border for one coat, and a wide, Irregular application of fur assume the lines of flared godets. A redingote panel is bordered with fur, on one coat, and there are full along with the sweater, Ease, wearability, comfort and individual SMArtness ( racterize them, us accept the fact that there variety in footwear, ind that this variety extends to color, fabric and line. We as well, for designers havé it, and are now turning attention to increasing that, If we seek Individuality, then we must find the smartest | color, the newest material and the most becoming lines for our pur- pose--this has to do with the new- est concelits of the moment. There is, undoubtedly, a fash- ionable preference for reptilian leathers, So---we are interested In the new glazed python models, with the scaly surface, of the leather showing through the lac- quered finish There are several models offered In several colors, which include black as a certainty, brown in a sable tone, and blue, in a tint that is called "'serge." These are important daytime shades, as the leather is a daytime material. Genulne reptiles include water- snake, alligator and lizard, a novel- ty called Java lizard introduced just recently. Tan java lizard is combined with a darker brown kidskin, and the tones of gray make another effective combina- tion. . In watersnake one sees brown, black and gray models, also harvest brown, navy blue and hot- tle green. Oxfords make use of the reptilian leathers, for they Is aught accepted thelr (1) Proving conclusively Lust 1uy » shporiant, borders and half borders, and diagonal borders, and scarf bor- ders from which to choose. a a a es ae en] OOTNOTE.S have a tailored smartness that is undeniable. Contrast is generally used end proves most effective, as in .a pump of brown kid, where a little bow of lizard skin is inlaid on the surface. A pump combines wa- tersnake and suede, or patent leather or kid, and the favored colors in this special model are brown, black and blue, the differ- ence in material making a subtle contrast in color. An Oxford in acajou or moss green Is combined with black suede leather or patent, if you prefer. A word of advice, not amiss in a season when so much depends upon color. There are some won- derful tones in the newly popular suede leathers, and as experience has taught us, suede must be dressed frequently after the nrsc few wearings. If the suede is of fine quality a wire brush will clean it without a dressing. Powders, applied ever so carefully, will stain, if one is mot careful, and hoslery is an item of cost not to be over- looked. And suede is really the most important material on the market ---we love its velvety softness. It ifs seen in pumps, Oxfords and strapped models, and in more col- ors than any other material, if we except the satins, molres and crepes that can be dyed any re- quired shade. We are accus- tomed to hats with a touch of fur for ornamentation, but never have we met so prodigal a use of pelts as is here shown, chou of marten talls makes A brown felt poke hat not only different, but luxurious in the extreme, (2) The always lovely combination, black and white, material is hatter's plush, and the shape a cloche affair. The There is a double brim on one side and the trimming consists of twin pom-poms, a black on white and a white on black, where the brim folds over. A subtle arrangement of color, (8) A scarf and hat ensemble for evening wear, The progress of the minor ensemble Is everywhere noted, apd this clever little skull cap and kerchief scarf serve as an excellent example, The fabric, as you have guessed , 1s velvet, and the trimming is designed to glitter under artificial lights. (4) Plushy fabrics arc very much in fashion's favor. thinks, instinctively, of the old-t One ime beaver hat, worn year after year and counted guite as much a possession as the fur coat, Satin ribbon bands this hat of the broad-brimmed type and makes the pnder-brim adornment. And there's a cap line show- ing over one ear. (5) The fall version of the tr rather smaller than usual, and temperamental in the extreme, ue picture hat. The crown is the brim, wider op one side, i= The trimming consists of a single pom-pom, and hb of the the hat, it is dubbed the "bob" (6) There's o distinct millinery little cap of sequin covered net silver, a most effective combinat I way it is worn on effect--smart? mode for evening. This close is carried out In gunmetal and jon. There's just a curl of hair showing, for the hat was designed to hide the hair, as so many of these newest evening models (7) Matching the fabric of the are planned to do. bat to the frock. It reminds one of a poke bopnet, this nnuspal velvet model with its satin trim, but it is only suggestive, not a true copy. from the face, and is a paradox The odd back treatinent is most It slopes away , for the crown is, also, a brim. effective,