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\ NE ©) In Effect They Are Simple, But They Must Be Distinctive As ell -- Tweeds Govern the Fabrics. ALI, sports, running well through the month of No- vember, tell us the story of this mode that is so clearly defined in the fashion catalog. For so. very long we were able to find traces of the sports idea all through our wardrobe, both day and eve- ning, but it has, finally, become a definite, specialized thing, taking with it whatever of severity ia permitted in the new order of things. It is, we admit, but little, For it follows logically that when a theme is responsible for the status of a mode--in this case it Is the feminine idea it will further effect that mode, Proving this, we see gracious Influences at work In the fabric, color and line of this interesting group of clothes, And shadowing every item In it, we have the feeling of Juxury that is even more apparent In formal aft- ernoon and evening wear, It is comparatively simple to put one's fingers on definite materials and colors, but not so easy to analyze the spirit that prevails in practically every offering. In all outdoor events, and it is the polo- football season now, we note smart, weather-proof attire that Is the ultimate in appropriateness to the purpose, yet consistent with the fundamentai rules laid down by the dictators of our general fashions, The Sports Ensemble Theme It is imperative that the gar- ments one assembles for the definite purpose of sports create an ensemble, and with a little fore- thought there can be a selection that will make several ensembles possible, You will find ready matched costumes and you will find the individual garments from which you can make up the type of outfit that you prefer, But never forget that every separate plece must be in harmony. Smart women, with ample time for the business of selection, pos- sess the power of glving a mode its importance. This fall they have made the tweed costu:ne, in some fashion, There is a mode for tweeds, fitting Into the various phases of present-day life, and it has heen a marvelous success, Moreover, it is daily gaining In impartance, This does not mean, necessarily, that the entire costume is made up of tweed, though many are, but tweed dominates, and jersey and the many other knitted fabrics, novelty wools and leather, fur and the like, are relative in Importance, For tweed is a fabric for dresses and coats, and a material for shoes, hats, scarfs, bags, even the boutonniere, It combines graclous- ly, "lending elegance to its com- panions. Costumes In The New Way For years we have looked to England for our sports fashions until the sports mode has justly been termed "English In attitude," Of late years, however, the French designers have taken this clothes type into consideration, and now we have the wealth of smart detail that is significant of that belated interest, And making it a triple alliance, we have the consideration of the designer for America's needs. Now that the jacket suit is so much in favor, models in this ma- terial of materials are plentiful, and they are, many of them, fur- trimmed, while others are fur-less, This applies to the suit with the three-quarters of full-length coat, both of which are necessary, since some find the short coat unbecom- ing, Generally speaking a pref- erence is shown for fur, and that rule progresses into Afternoon and evening fashions. A study of completed ensembles reveals the tendency to match the hat to the suit, and there are four- plece outfits, made up of the suit, a blouse--of crepe or satin or heavy silk, and a sweater and turban, the two latter knitted, Or the hat--usually a turban or hel- met affair, may be made of the dress material, If the coat Is fash- jfoned from something that does one of its several phases, not only an outstanding, but a distinguished not possess the pliabllity that the new millinery demands, B | of these pieces are entirely hand- | made, They Ave Combining Colors Many times the frock of a sports ensemble Is neutral in tone, and is worn with a jacket in a bright color, The bright greens, reds and blues are favored--many of them LINKS To BIN2THE Chay NCE again we return to the old adage that a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, for never has it been as fash- fon-true as it is at the moment, when emphasis is placed on the ensemble. And, fortunately, there has never been the wealth of choice in those things that we designate as costume detalls that we have at present, due discrimination made between the formal and the In- formal, the sports and the dress types. We set for ourselves a task when we say: "I must have a pew frock, or coat, or suit," unless we seek a garment to fit into an ensemble scheme already arranged--an extra dress, let us say, or a coat that will go well with several frocks, wisely chosen, When this is not the cass, it means headwear and footwear, handbag and gloves, and any other little detajl that may be necessary to a completed costume, Only a very few of the many new accessories can be mentioned, but these few are typical of the fore- thought that has gone into the making of them all, for every need is met, and in variety, We know that footwear has taken on color and is appearing in many materials ~--tweed, reptillan skins, suede, kidskin, silk, satin and brocade; and we know that lasts are as varied as the tones of brown, gray, red, green and blue, Incidentally, hosiery shades vary subtly, yet definitely, making pos- sible a perfect link between foot- wear and the frock, Belge, once a shade, now has dozens of nuances of its own and is a perfect neutral color, sometimes yellowish, again pinkish, or gray, or, in its latest tint, castor. This latter shade Is specially designed for wear with the autumn blues, gray and black. Showing the fundamental prin- ciple of the ensemble idea when applied to accessories, and the im- portance of linking the latter with the former, fur scarf ensembles are presented, They are made up of a bat, a scarf and cuff-muff, each usable without the other, but most effective when kept a unit. They come in many furs, and the hat is some ope of the cap or helmet shapes--the fur hat will be popular. Handbags are both pouch and envelope type, but there seems to be a decided preference shown for the latter. There are many ma- terials, and many colors, made necessary by the wide choice of materials and types, and one is im-~ pressed by the prevalence of the modernistic motif in these offer- ings. Lines and trimmings and clasps make much of it, as, for Instance, an envelope of suede and calfskin with a modernistic lock, Costume jewelry has been de- signed for every dress type and for every color and material, but cer- tain themes are stressed above the others,. Bports jewelry is novel in its composition and lines, made up of metal disks in original shapes and combined, sometimes, with imitation stones. It is a specialized fashion, permissible with no other costume type, but exceedingly smart in its place, There is great beauty in the Jewelry pleces that are set in mar- casite, many of them comparatively inexpensive, the use of silver re- ducing the cost, When platinum is used, the jewelry takes on value, One sees bracelets, earrings, necklaces--with emphasis on the choker type, pendants on slender chains, brooches and pendant brooches and pendant brooch fobs. Carnelian and chrysoprase, crystals and chalcedony, onyx and the more familiar semi-precious stones are used, among the latter the mar- velous colorings of aquamarines, One may carry out practically apy color scheme with these unusually: lovely pieces. with the The exceptionally neutral beiges, grege or gray. turban will match the frock, or, if the situation is reversed, the frock effective and hat will be brightly colored, and the coat will be dull of tone. Black and white and Oxford gray ara combined, Incidentally the rich Autumn browns with a glint of henna, rus- set, or crimson, are favored, and all these colors are effectively worked into the sweaters so gen- erously offered as smart. These tones were featured in a smart sports "overcoft," a real, true great-coat, lined across the shoul- ders like a man's overcoat, and finished with leather-covered but- tons and a leather belt, Another coat, of fur, carried out the same idea, Furs Important In This Mode There are lines sharply drawn between the fur coat for sports and the one for dress purposes, and this special season special furs are featured, The raccoon coat is a classic, and nothing Is more ap- propriate for genuine sports pur- poses, but it is not a particularly smart coat for semi-sposts uses. Some of the furs that are consid- ered smartest do not pousess the warm comfort of this iv, 2 shaggy fur, They offer us leopard, ocelot, kid caracul, pony skin and our old friend beaver, for sports. Beaver is sturdy and dependable, and its soft brown color fits nicely into the fall color scheme. They are offer- ing fur jackets, too, designed for wear with a dress of tweed or knitted material, and there are leather jackets and long leather coats, both of them kasha lined, and matched with a leather hat, sways, ! such a garment in the smart shops, | | gorgeous gowns and ej; ally gors | rich furs or made wholly of them, | Broeades and stiff satins and soft J IEWING the formal mode from Uru angles, certain charae- teristics stand out as dominant factors in its success, for successful it undoubtedly is. And the same thing is true of the models that are not classed as formal, but still lay claim to the small details that elevate them to a deserved position of prominence, The season Is now sufficiently advanced to permit a definite synopsis, The list of materials for informal costumes" begins and ends with tweed, although there are fabrics of great beauty in the list between, There are sheer woolens, home- ~ Of the Utmost Importance spuns, kashmirs, jerseys and the step-sister of velvet--velveteen, all in use, all effective, 'but possessing only a small share of the popular- | ity accorded this sports fabric par | excellence, Tweed is a synonym | for fabric in this group. { Dominating the afternoon and | evening mode in much the same way, we find velvet, It is trans-| parent and feather-light, or it is stiff and regal, as for the formal evening frock, Less importance is| attached to chiffon and Georgette, | but the moires, taffetas and heavy satins are bidding for our approval, Dull crepes, patterned silks, lames, | nets and tulles and laces are in- cluded in the seasons material | roster, | The approved colors are interest- | ing. 'There are many blacks, as al- | but they are possessed of' shades--"off-blacks,"" and 'black~ blacks" featured. Brown is modish, in the dark, rich shades known as | fur tones. Blue seems to incline to the slate tones, royal and bright! navy t'nts, and the greens take on blue cr gray overtones. There are real reds, purples, beiges and faint off-shades for evening wear, Lines stress the flared and princesse silhouette, irregular hem- lines, points and diagonals, and one-sided effects when fulness and draperies are the featured effects, Tiers and godets and flounces are features of the formal mode, and Paris hints that fulness, attached below the hip, is the most impor- tant trend, Trim hips, fitted yokes, tunic lines, peplums, panels, scarfs and jabots are important. | ert Lingerie of Silk or Satin | Roo pace with the luxury wend, lingerie adopts rich ma- terials and richer trimmings for its own, And the models por- tray the newer, things of fashion when it comes to lines, with a re- | sult that is eminently satisfactory, We find, in the French importa- tions, food for serious thought, especially if we are clever with our needles, For these importations are infinitely desirable--but pro- hibitively expensive. t One French designer uses heavy satin as a fabric, making garments in many lovely colors from it. An | And never has | formality than | satins, ! tulles of fashion, | 1s | or sequins | velvet were everywhere, pallletted jackets and gleaming jewels adding | ATA we a Fon other designer shows a preference for heavy silk crepe, and both are combined with real lace, or, if tailored, smartly untrimmed. All and the finest needlework distinguishes them. The sheerer fabrics are not without representa- tion in the autumn showings. err Some of the models show the princesse waist that appears in evening frocks, and there are un- even hemlines and diagonal and modernistic lines to remind one of the link that binds underthings with outer wear. Alencon lace Is the preferred trimming when this trimming medium is used, but other laces are approved, and there is virtue in tallored combinations and panties, of heavy silk or satin, wholly untrimmed. Fabric, a good pattern, and the will to do is all that Is necessary for the achievement of really lux- urious garments, and at a price that is negligible, if compared to imported models, even coples of them, that run into the hundreds of dollars. FOR DINNER. AND THE OANCE "E brilliant first night of the ypera season is over, crystal-| lizing into a compartively set-| tled mode our formal fashions. there been more of we have at present, when evening attire takes on a vivid, seintillating beauty, or keeps to alluring filmy fabrics, For matron and debutante there is variety in the exotically colored taffetas, velvets, laces and Mention must be made of the fact that nothing takes precedence over black, and the newest offering the spangled black. gown in moire, satin, velvet, crepe or a kindred fabric, Contrast is achieved by alternating spangles, palllettes with dull surfaces, a continuation of the idea of fabric | contrast, but a more effective one. | are in white-- These glittery particles metal, black, colors or plain or iridescent, The theory of the ensemble is! expressed in a new, smart way, this fall, and with such a frock as those mentioned above, a jacket, | covered solidly with the spangles, is an example of it. The idea of the evening jacket is gaining rapid- ly in popularity, and one may select combining it carefully with her eve- ning frock, Velvet, lame, sequinned net--there are ever so many pos- sibilities, "Ensembles of sophisticated "ele- gance" were the rule on the long- anticipated first night. There were geous wraps, the latter heavy with gorgeousness to luxury, Which is] indicative of a trend toward a most | | the more decided formality, Your evening frock, no matter how simple its conception, must stress this feeling of formality, Perhaps it will be by way of the fabric, which will have real splen- dor to contribute, for surely there is formality in velvet, in moire, in brocade. And in color, too, black again heading the list, which in- cludes the 'white-pastels,"" the dark-bright tones, and many of familiar tones of other years. But beyond all else, there must be perfection of line, which leads to that elusive thing that we call smartness, It has various synonyms --elegance, sophisticated simplic- ity, and the like, and it includes individuality in its necessary char- acteristics, Splendor characterizes our evening fashions, and variety makes it possible for one to express ° her personality, or, if you prefer, her type, Not only are fabrics splendid and colors used with brilliance and imagination, but there are many silhouettes, inspired by many periods. Practically every evening model] has some interpretation of the fascinating uneven hemline-- peacock trains, great circular dips, points and then more points. The princesse line is shown and there are flares and many intricate drapes--all with an appearance of simplicity, Evening wraps are of paramount importance in their contribution to formality and luxury. They show a decided preference for fur in irregular borders, huge flaring col- lars, draped cape effects--fox a favorite, There are some charming evening wraps of white velvet, con- sidered smart, and there are jewel» toned velvet and wraps of lame or brocade, THE PICTURES (1) Wool and worsted materials makes much of knitwear and are featured. The sports mode the novelty weaves that are offered in abundance, -This scarf dress offers several unusual features, as the convertible neck and the cape-scarf. The flare in the skirt is oddly contrived, but smartly so, (2) The sports outfit has a scarf to complete it, And never have there been so many different kinds of scarfs, both in respect to material and shape, The kerchief, either square op triangular, is not new, but its | fl Is tr d both on the scarf mode and as a trimming motif for frocks, (8) It is i ive to the new jewelry, For along with the glittery pieces that accent our evening frocks, and the lovely bits that complement our afternoon attire, we must class the all-metal, or metal and stone offerings, They are smartest on frocks with decided sports leanings, (4) A three piece suit of the trottenr type, It connects the sports mode with the town mode, using a plain and a novelty checked wool for the purpose, A pleated skirt and straight line jumper make the dress, and the coat Is straight line also, The long scarf is a notable feature, its lining that of the coat, (5) The value of fur in the mode Is stressed, Skins with odd markings, or oddly arranged, are features of the trimming themes that are offered, Silky soft fabrics combine beautifully with them, and many of the fur-trimmed cloth costs are quite as expensive as the coat made wholly of fur. (6) The knitted frock at its simple tweed coat and for the ge |] beneath the best, For wear of even shop» ping, there Is nothing more satisfactory. The knitting machine provides the trimming, using three shades of yarn in the same color but contrasting shades, Note the belt. (7) The newest expression of the beaded frock, Satin is not new, nor is bead embroidery, but this model is unique in that it combines the two, keeping to the well-liked straight line silhouette, The skirt features width, bas a suggestion of a panel on one side and is distinguished by a unique girdle,