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TIMES EE Y of [AO -- - A DANDOR Forse om' And 1n 1itdhe inus the New all Miuinery-- It is a Distinctiy URIOSITY is permissible, when it has to do with fash- | ion, and so the modern Pan-' lora is quite within her rights w-wpening any box that shows un- ble signs of containing mil- | linery, And the content of the box cannot fall to please even the jaded tastes of those who declare that there is nothing new to be had, for the models possess a sophistica- tion and feminine charm that have never been equalled, Earlier indications to the econ- , hats are small, And they are young In spirit without being at all. crude, 8s young things some- times are, They use different ma- tevials, and they use old materiale differently, their colors as refresh. ing as thelr lines, which are In- describably chic and original, There will be some, probably many, that will not become you, but there will | be others that will seem to have bedn made for you, There are many surprises, chief among them the variety that de- signers have managed to achieve only fabric as a medium, al- occasionally there is an nt or soft feather to give e ald, We know that this 'mode is the result of several oral fashion trends, among em 1 y, elegance, femin- infty and the ever present neces- sity of keeping headwear an In- tegral part of the completed cos- tume,. Materials Ave Pine And Supple One 'Is impressed by the gen- uine fineness of quality apparent in the 'materials of which the new hats ape made, Attention is di- pected to the foreign and domestic nolells because they are mew, and felt apd velvet reign supreme. Already, there are models that combing the flat furs with fabrics, and e materials seems a favorite 'way of creating effects, Silky surfaces seem to be the pre- ferred finish, whether dull er opwy, Hatter's plush Is represented, both as a material for hats and as a trimming, doing, oftentimes, what fur originally did. Felt and hatter's plush have somewhat the effect of felt and fur, the sleek Feminine Mode, fective in accenting lines, which were never as important as they are this season, Materials in com- bination often work out a design, for it Is the work in the hat that makes it, If you would know the popular millinery colors, you have only to consult your fall fashion card, "Black and all the tall colors," Is the edict, and this Is imperative if harmony 1s to be achieved In every detail of the costume, = Already there are some breath-taking com- binations and contrasts of both colors and shades of colors, notable among them the harmonies in beige, brown or blue, all ultra- smart, With Brims And Without The new hats are of two minds, which is, If we are to be becom- ingly hatted, imperative, for while | many cannot wear a brimless hat, it would be quite unfair to de- prive those who can of this smart bit of headwear. So there are hats with brims and hats without, the former differing from brimmed hats of other seasons In twp very important detalls, leaving us with the definite feeling that we have seen something decidedly new, The new line of smartness Is found at the hack of the hat, which is cut very low on the neck, and proceeds to adapt Itself In some ingenious fashion to ears and fore head--most brims show an off-the- face effect In front, The slashed brim, folded either this: way or that, is a feature, and sometimes the brim Is wider at one side than at the other, or is flared, In a modification of the old-fashioned poke bonnet, Perhaps the best description of the new lines would be "lpregular- ity of contour," and this leads to the obvious conclusion that indi- viduality will result, The idea of assymetry Is frequently carried out --it is still good, you know, in general fashions. There are hats that we can, with a stretch of the imagination, designate as cloches, but they have traveled far from the models of this name that we knew several seasons ago, The Directions They Take There are times when the back Floss of the latter peculiarly ef- of the hat forms a ruffle, the ma- terial a soft velvet, perhaps, In combination 'with felt. = Or the material may be plaited, seeming very like a fan, Even when there is a more generous width to the brim it is menipulated In some way so that no trace of Its orig- inal line remains. There are hints that the new femininity Is verging upon fussiness, and that means the inevitable reaction. We have three exeellent ex- amples of the brimmed hat shown upon this page. All three use felt as a fabric, and the quality of the felt is of interest, for there Is a decided inclination te plushiness. STUDIES IN FALL Arne --__------ COLORINGS OU will search in vain for a fall hat to match the frock in 8 shade that you thought beautiful, last winter, for it does not exist, It may be a frock--and goodness knows ere never so many shades color, but everyone will & bit different from the ng to match. That with colors! They stay, change their tints with season. ecards list the browns, greens, black, white and white, along with the pastels, and many evening shades. At first se® nothing that we seen before, that is, in a way. But with the excep- black apd white, there are that have been held last fall and winter eard--change is apparent, collections brown holds important place, and ft some time since brown featured color. One instant- HLT Hat il a [ ti] Hi § great beauty, those with slate and steel tones specially stressed py the foremost Parisian desigpers. Sap- phire is another favored shade, and it is noted that evening blues are darker In tone, carrying out the vogue for daytime colors In evening apparel. here will be some ipteresting reds, there are already, in the win- ter collections. They vary from the familiar American beauty tints to brick and wine reds, and those with more than a bint of yellow in them. The overtone in the red determines its use, those with blue or yellow lights being. used for eve- ning, for they are somewhat more vivid in tone than many of the others. A red frock Is very like a tonic. There are some pew greens and there are purples, and many think that gray will prove popular, espe- cially ip coats apd furs. Many of the scason's shades will be dated with the other color that serves to make them, really, half-tones. If turquoise has more than a bint of gray; blue a cast that fs steel; brown certain high lights that are bronze; then these shades are over- tones, peculiar to the mode of this particular season. A very great many shades of a color, especially when those shades are strong and distinct, complicates the problem of barmony--it is so easy to fail. by just a tint, to get then, ficial light, again, contrast would serve the purpose In a more satis- factory way. Varlety Is always a problem. There will be some wonderful effects produced with the ombre, compose and direct contrast themes, among them the use of red with blue, red with black, black with white, apd brown with belge. Some of the subtler combinations will be offered, among them shades of green and rose, and the lilac topes of purple with the grays. The subtler, and the more upusual the wpse of color in combination, the better, ! Color Is b ing Incr ingly important in the accessory world, and nowhere is it making quite the difference that it does in footwear. Blue, green and red shoes seem to be quite as much "stock" offerings as black and brown, 'and when they are included in the list, there are few ensembles that cannot be completed satisfactorily. Then, too, there Is contrast--a - black frock with wine colored shoes, for example. Costume jewelry Is taking on color through every possible me- dium, every semi-precious stone brought into use, cap find the needed pieces for an ensemble in many shades of every color. In the same way color touches every accessory, to an ex- tent that complicates the situation even while fit clarifies it. Like fire, color fis 8 good friend, but a poor enemy, g and excellent! replicas of precious stones. Col- | ored crystals are featured, and one In the flower trimmed model we have greater width on the right side than on the left, incidentally, when width varies it is usually this way, You will notice in this, and in. other models, that the crowndappears to be lower. A second hat features a double brim, more versatile and more un- usual than a faced brim. Orig- inally the two sides may have been even, but when the left side turned its edge the right side did not, and In front when the upper brim rolled a bit, the lower did not. The "pirate" hat is an excellent ex- ample of an even-all-the-way- round brim that has been folded to create an effect. Huge collars will not tolerate the wide brim in back. Turban, Beret And Swathed Hat Probably there is more of sop- histication In the draped model, or at least in the hat that is brim- less, than in any other. A woman must be very sure of her profile to attempt one of these smart little shapes, especially as the decree has gone forth that they shall com~ pletely conceal the halr. It is con~ sidered smart to have a hat draped from cloth that seems to exactly match the costume--it sometimes really does so, Berets and skull cap hats and turbans do odd things--have perky elephants ears of the fabric, for instance, Or, as in the close fitting model of gay blue velvet, there may be a trimming of the fabric of the hat, in this case a shirred band. The tight little hat of crocheted gold cloth wears grapes over one ear apd makes them of the hat material, This model is typical of many In the fall show- | | ings. | | VOVEZLTZES Evening Headwear Is Featured This fall there will be a line of demarcation between the formal daytime hat and the evening hat, Feather toques in color, lace caps, supple that they can be carried in in the capaclous sleeve of her vel- vet evening wrap---the hat was of metal lace, ' The evening model in black vel- vet, encrusted with silver beads and rhinestones, proves the wisdom of a distinet mode for evening, and establishes the short-haired head as a permanent fashion, Paris tells us that the women who grew their hair out are cutting It off again, although we know that the mode has hecome sufficiently elastic to permit one's individual need to rule--becomingness Is the watch- word, A new sweater, brought here from England, is kpit in an open weave that resembles needle-point. It is pullover style and the yarn is clude the favored THE PICTURES (1) The evening hat makes its truly formal debut, This stun. ning model is made equally to its lines rhinestones trace the slik fringe, here and there, (2) Piracy on the signer carried out when fur coats come, high seas was its Inspiration! her idea in green felt, back and fastening it with gilt braid and # most subtle color combination, A hat of «of black velvet, and it owes its smartness and its embroideries, Silver beads and pattern of leaves, and there is a touch of And the de- folding the wide brim a turquoise ornament, type will pass (3) Hat and handbag go into friendly partvership, Velvet is the medium of thelr expression, and it is a brilliant bine in col- or, fatter an enyvel effcets that ol favors, (4) Many a hat stakes its success on a brim. Shurred bands of ihe fabric trim both bat snd bag, the model, the former one of the amazing cap In this event it is a double affair, the npder brim of felt, apd the bat itself of plush, a favorite fabric, emphasized by sp ornament. (5) its beauty lies in is fabric manipulation. Onty an artist ||! could achieve the ope-sided effect -- feather fapecy, yet it seems of the tendency to hid the hajr, » obstacles in its path. The colors are brown apd tan, and the varying width of the brim, turned back over one eye, is { pt on" acizng bb the | t Another ey thet will have many (6) The close hat at its best does not show the hair. It can be worn only over the closest cut bob, and only the woman fayored with a fine profile should attempt it, ft is fashioned of crocheted gold cloth. and trimmed with clusters (3). Wiower trimmings are on ticle S8y buck. of gold grapes and flesyes The nse of black white maznolias on novelty felt is ap indication of this | trend, likewise of the continued ¥ of this age-old color I | , A brim of varied width is 8 featupe, combination, trend of the mode. " | | Bue, iin color. a light weight woolen. Colors in- shades of red, blue or green, as well as white and a true peach shade. ---- im / 2 £ HL i #s= il LX HE 2 matter how lovely it may If you wear brown well. will have topazes. The same ape plies to bheige--there is nothing more sophisticated, under the gay lights of evening. than honey bhelge and topaz' If you choose beige fop sports, then the carnelian necklace, short, of course. will be correct, Settings for daytime wear are al- ways simpler when ita a daytime plece only. Real elaborate settings bel to the ing Certain purples, especially the new parma shade, demand the amethyst. One of the finest backs grounds for jade is white, gray or black--but we see jade against such a background rarely--it jum isn't known. Black and white pro. vide the best background for the aquamarine. The new gold jewelry is best when used against a back- ground of black, beige or green, but it may be worn with any color, i i a on ASSURE" 7HUE IRAET YY ORN within each and every one of us is the desire to pos- sess individuality, and one of the most important mediums of its expression is dress, We have all, at some time or other, met ourselves coming down the street, and we know that the exprience is not a pleasant one. There is little or no need of such a happening in this immediate fashion time, for so wide is the variety, both of articles and combination, that a personal touch is assured, Everything that makes up the mode 18 our servant in the achleve- ment of individuality, This In- cludes materials, colors, lines, as related to our frocks and suits, and to our costume details, as well, But since we may have more of the latter than of the former, it is upon these accessories that we must depend for the variety that makes for our own pleasure, as well as for our reputation as an interpreter of the mode, There 1s one thing that favors us in the solving of our dress problems. It is mot lkely that there will be another person, xr actly our type, that will possess exactly oyr tastes in color, line and general fitness of things, With a choice of material, two persons will work out a costume in differ. ent ways, and where one will acs cent one color in a fabric, another will stress some other shade, Certain details that were, at their inception, looked upon as a fad, have come to be fundamentals of the costume, Costume jewelry sequinned models, metallic cloth was one of these, the boutonniere turbans, many of them so soft and another, the scarf a third, But all have grown, from humble begin- a pocket of the eveping wrap, are! nings, to an Importance that gives | offered--In a recent fashion show them a complete "department of the model carried her evening hat | their own in the big shops, They are, moreover, far more important than their size would seem to war- rant, In the flower department we find many clever novelties for our use this fall, For the sports or tal- lored frock that demands a bou- tonniere there are clever ones made of bead or glass berries; crystal posies, or more durable ones made of knitted wool, Some are made of wax and tinted by hand to flower topes, while others are made of mother-of-pearl, or of laligue. In their novelty there is much of beauty, as well. Flowers for use on formal frocks employ - the most exquisite ma- terials, among them chiffon, the metal cloths, velvet and tulle, They bear little resemblance, many of them, to the flowers that grow in our gardens, but they serve a dif- ferent - purpose, and may, there fore, be different, Brilllants sim» ulate dew-drops, and polka dota transform them into accessories with a purpose all their ewn--to supply the different touch, Nothing lends quite the air of elegance to our costume that prop- erly chosen costume jewelry cons tributes, Since it is to be a season in which color is stressed, we must expect color in the pleces that will be worn with both informal and formal costumes, Some of the pleces are positively barbaric in the use of metals and coloved stones, and manufactured jewels are used in lleu of the traditionally costly gems, The semi-precious stones are used lavishly amethysts, for in- stance, with sliver, The beauty of eoral, both red and white, lapis, onyx, carnelian, jade and chryser prase is featured, and one sees many pleces that feature the tur quelse, or garnets, or seed pearls, Cameos, some charming ones fin ished in gray, rather than pinkish rose, are popular, and theré are worlds of beads In every color of the rainbow, : ' Crystals and rhinestones are tm. portant, especially for evening wear, and one's jewelry éan well be of these glittery thi for they are eftective and far costly, There are some marvelous colored crystals, and they make necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches that are startlingly effective, Pen- dants, worn on slender sliver chains, are the concession fashion makes to the woman with a short neck, It may Interest you to know that hosiery manufacturers have brought out a fairly complete line of biue stockings, designed for wear with frocks of blus--they should match, And there are greens, also, and some lovely mauves, rather pale, for wear with the new purple shades, We are somewhat in doubt as to the sue- cess of these colors, although the new flair for colored shoes may have some effect upon the sitpa- tion. Suede and antelope, both very popular, make the handbag of either suede or antelope ap Im- portant item, Then there are the new fabric bags, made of either tweed, homespun or fannel, and designed for wear with costumes In these materials. We may not lose sight of the fact that it is peslly HEPEBHYE that on form BLE semble of 008 Doseibie, In order that there not be too many fabrics In AS NEW YORK § HE displays in the shop win Co are only a day ahead of the smart woman on the Awve- She watches those windows w determine her next purchase, | and at this season of the year, she finds them especially interesting. fhey contain the latést hints. from Paris concerning lines, colors and | materials, not only for frocks and suits and coats, but for the dozen | and one necessary costume details. Shop windows are pur most ac- gurate teachers. - A window full of fabrics, the like of which, in both color and texture, we have never before seen. Rayon tweeds, rayon satins, rayon velvets --all masquerading under fascinat- ing trade names, and characterized by a marvelous pliability that argues well for the beauty of the frocks they will make. Overtones abound, browns with hints of green or purple. plues with gray lights, or yellow, a certain richness of tone is everwhere apparent. Apciher window features Mmnring from the tints of evening slippers to the blues that aré black at night. An- telope is a favorite material, and a wine-red shoe in this material was fonked on ome side by a handbag shoes pal to match, op the other side by a hat of beige felt with an antelope band. Brown suede shows beige inlays, blue suede is trimmed with blue kid, green with green, With brown, and so op through the t. A display of velvet models, rang- Ing from the frock of gimple lines through the ensemble suit type to evening gowns of this luxury fabric. Transparent velvet, Lyons velvet, panne velvet, printed velvet, they are all represented. One frock seems to require nothing but its beige scarfs and shawls EES ITI yields to the charm of the fabrics, combining with it plece effect, Another window fs given over in a bewildering array. Silks, printed snd plain shown In triangles, squares i! § bats t : i : | i } own beauty to trim it. but another seeks the gid of Honiton lace, very fine and cobwebby. And a third Did You HAT tweed, the smartest of all the fall woolens. is wearing earacul fur ip a tome that matches the fabric? Probably the tweed fs ap overtone---showing a hint of another color and the' 'ur mutches the basic -hade, and is of the favored flat variety. THAT it is not merely our gar- ments that will make much of tweed, but our accessories? They are showing accessory ensembles of Know -- tweed --footwear and a hand trimmed with silk kid, and possible to match the tw millinery purposes. THAT the scarf, not pew fin fashion scheme. by any seems to be unlimited in sibilities? for purposes. both the square and triangle. and these two types, with the longer type, become mine Aetafls.