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It Rules All Fashion, Whether It Be Dress or Household Furnishments -- Nov- elty isEverywhere Apparent, HERE is, undoubtedly, a ma- terial mode, ruling everything that we wear and use, And fabrics, . as applied to our fasnlons in dress and the decora- tion of our homes, play an im- portant part in our lives. Color, fundamentally a characteristic of these same fabrics, is important, and should he associated with them. And this new season we are finding ourselves very deeply In debt to the twe in combination. Elegance, restrained in the in- terests of simplicity, Is a funda- mental of all our fashions. It makes its first appearance in fabrics, and we may as well admit at the optset that they contribute more to elegance than any other one thipg, They are frequently breath-taking In thelr' loveliness, and they are so usable that they are the delight of every designer, whether she be a skilled crafts- woman or an amateur, It 18 not easy to meet the new needs of each season with new ma- terials. The demand on weavers and dyers is ceaseless, but they an- swer these demands with some wonderful products, never falling to assure variety, as well as beauty. Just what the new fabrics mean in the new mode can be proven by even the most cursory survey, for they fre the mode, in that they are responsible for its lines and its trimming as well. Novelty Weaves Are Offered Color and texture combine in some extremely varied' and indl- vidual effegts. The demand for something new, even in the old weaves, has been partly responsi- ble for the originating of a. new Aber yarn that is known, in a gen- pral way; as rayon. It possesses a r that Is very acceptable, and combined with threads of wool, eotton or linen 2s the case may be, or makes the entire material, achieving a clever variety, 'We are interested, first of all, in the wools and velvets, in direct contrast to the summer materials thet are passing with the falling Everywhere we are met with the Information that the most faghiopable fabric is velvet, and| we grant it the hopor that is its due. In every collection this lovely pit dominates the display, and we are told that in some form it is an all-day, all-evening possibility. Ope js amazed at the infinite wariety of this royal fabric. There "plein wedding ring yelvets, velvets and velvet broches. there are velours, another Sroup of this special class and the extremely popular transparent vel- vets. Lyons and chiffon and ombre end yelvets are shown, and quite the of all--the baby] of the chenille velvet, its place in poined. ) list still undeter- Woolens Claim Omr Attention Famous looms are producing Jome woolen materials that are psed for coats, frocks and the popular jacket suit, and these fabrics are soft, featherweight mixtures, swagger ftweeds and homesp and authentic Scotch tartans, mitra-smart. The old feel- ing that wool is & heavy material has been dissipated, and it now shares honors with velvet and with the smart silks that are one of the hasle principles of fashion. In a general way prints hold a position of prominence, and while they differ in design with each new season, they ho'd to thelr pepular- ity, Bilks and satins and velvets are at thelr best when printed, and we shall see some adorable evening frocks made of printed taffeta. Moire silk takes to prints, and is gaining, rather than losing, in pop- ulapity, Batin, the classic be- tween-season material, is featured. Luxury makes metallic effects a certainty, They give an alr of glamour, as well as elegance to materials, and lend an exotic note to something that would, otherwise, be ordinary. There are some un- usual effects--gold inlaid on moire silk, for Instance, and the new lames, some sheer and some heavy, are sometimes printed, again em- broidered. They are monotone, duotone or a melange of colors, Some are encrusted with velvet, Decorative Fabrics Interest Fall rouses our interest in the home, and turns our attention te the materials which are used for draperies, coverings, upholstery and pillows. There are some ex» quisitely beautiful imported fabrics, brought to this country by the men and women whose business it is to search the foreign markets for them, and they Ipclude crisp chintzes and cretonnes and linens, as well as damasks, brocatelles and broches. It is onty natural that the latter group should take precedence over the former, for summer stresses the voiles and cretonnes, while winter brings the richer weaves into the interior decorating scheme. Whether it be a strip for a pillow or the material for "doing over" an entire room, care must be exer- cised In the cholece, for not only eolor, but appropriatenese of ma- terial and pattern should receive consideration. From a well-known forelgn de- signer comes a new material that applies n modernistic design done in silvery rayon to a background in solid color--tan, brown, salmen pink or green, It is designed for use as an upholstery material, for draperies or for wall coverings. It expresses the latest decorative In- fluences In color, weave and design, and is an excellent example of the influence of modern art on fabrics. Rich Brocades And Damasks Among the gorgeous brocades that are offered we find those In the Italian spirit, designed, we imagine, for use in rooms that are decorated In the spirit of Louls the Bisteenth, Color combinations of the beauty of blue and gold, rose and sliver, gold and silver are teptured. French broches, hand- loomed, come In rose, blue, gold and cream, with designs embroid- ered In the lovellest pastel color- ings. The brocatelles, a mixture of silk and linen, prove very serviceable for practical purposes. The back- ground of some solid color, as mul- berry or red, has a design carried put In gold, They are rich look- ing, heavy of texture, and make pillows or upholstery covers that will give good service. Molre damasks gre used for bedspreads as well as draperies and upholstery, pnd striped damasks follow the same general uses. It is practically impossible to find A coat, apart from sports models, that is not lavishly trimmed with fur, Huge collars, deep cuffs and wide bandings meke it a thing of luxury, and the woman inclined to plumpness is lost in the folds of fur and fabric, COATS FEATURE ---- LUXURIOUS FURS HE problem of a separate coat will demand real study, this satisfactory ope, r several reasons for this, and the all come under the single head of economy. Few women coat every season, that her choice of 8 be conservative, and rothing in its styl of any one special wip it happens that the pess for flares and fabric manipy mode. heralded as extremely smart, calls for a coat whose lines follow the general lines of the dress over which it is worn. And we do not bave to be reminded that the dominating influence fin the fall silhouette is the flare. A large pro- portion of the mew coats feature this line. And to camry the matter still further, complicating an already complicated problem, the really smart coat fis not only furred, but furred with a lavish hand. And there is no one of us who does not realize that fur is expensive, bring- ing the cost of the model into three figures without even {] quite ms much us the material of which it is made. Perfection in workmanship is imperative. Choosing 2 coat that will give facth for daytime wear, 8 to try. To invest heavily in a cost that will be ont of the mode an- other fall is not practical for many of us. Of course we have no definite assurance that the fall of 1929 will eliminate the flared silhouette, in- deed we bave no definite assurance of anything in fashion except that it will change. It is an alluring gamble for those who can afford to lay 8 wager; it is little short of 8 the most serious act in the work of assembling the new wardrobe. whether it be shopping about town or attending an affair that savors 'of the formal, is, truly a task. It may not be elaborate, for then it cannot go shopping. Yet it cannot be severely plain, for then it cannot §0 out to play bridge or take tea! It is an excellent idea to copcen- trate on, materials, when making your chojce--they are extremely important. From a representative collection we cap take several models, and from them draw conclusions. A tan coat, cut without a flare, has a long shawl collar that extends all the way down one side to the hem, and tchi deep-pointed cuffs of lynx fur. Another coat has a shaped border around the skirt, bag-shaped cuffs and 8 huge collar of koMnsky. There fis nearly as much fur as fabric in this model. A model that has the most in- #ricate seaming imaginable, but > Glorifying the ~ Costume Suit HE use of the two words en- semble and costume are, at times, confusing. But the former Includes everything that goes to complete our attire, while the latter.is frequently made | the distinction between an ensem- ble achieved by a separate coat and frock--several frocks to be chosen with the single coat background, {and a specially designed suit, the coat and frock planned together-- | line, material, color, trimming. Fall fashions make much of the costume suit. There are many types, ranging from the all-day costume suit of an unusual woollen, carefully tailored and richly be- furred, to the afternoon costume sult of rich velvet, just as carefully tallored and even more richly be- furred, They speak of costume suits ini the custom manner, direct- ing our attention to the skill that goes into their making as well as the fabrics of which they are made. So wide is the variety of these costume sults that it is difficult to classify them, although each has its purpose and {is specialized, so to speak. We are noting a very great many jacket costume suits this autumn, and the short fur coat, out of the fashion picture for a time, is back again, and will be used to complete smart costumes, or should we say ensembles, for both Informal and formal purp gover a one-piece silk frock that matches the lining of the coat, is smart with fur, and effective through both fabric and color cons trast. Even more practical is the cos tume suit of tweed, also with an interlined coat which has a shawl collar of raccoon fur, With this goes a skirt of the tweed and a surplice blouse of silk in a har. monizing rhade., They are using silver Jap fox fur with slate blue,. fisher coon fur with green or brown, black lynx with continental blue or gray, and, smartest of all, black lynx with black kashmir---- the all-black costume, Elegance enters into the after noon costume 'sult that is, nine times out of ten, of velvet, It is when we arrive at the more formal models that we find evidences of the twin silhouette, though of course the straight line frock and straight line coat provide an ex- ample of this fashion favorite. But the dress coat of a soft material, topping 8 frock of the same ma~ terial, better expresses the fashion trend, Ensemble harmony is the term applied to this correlation of sll- houettes, and whatever the means adopted to achieve it, the result ia pleasing. It may be godets, oF flounces or circular cuts, but they are so arranged that the line of the coat follows the line of the dress, proving two things--first, that the flare Is increasing, rathep than decreasing in importance, and second that the ensemble thems is all-powerful, Velvet, fur, lace and metal cloths form a quartette that is, to say the least, exotic. The costume suit of velvet may be all of the one fabrio, or thers may be two fabrics used. A gown of velvet, relleved with a neck trimming of real lace and complemented with a fur-trimmed coat of the velvet; is one possibile. ity. Two velvets In combination, or velvet and metal cloth, are sug» gestions, but always fur for a trims ming, of course, The ensemble pictured in the group shove is typical. The sopl- loped edge of the bodice is matohed by a scalloped hemline--glever touch! Beaver fur trims the long coat and the silhouette of the lat- ter widens to keep pace with the width of the skirt of the dress which is achieved by applied full. ness. The hat is velvet, but the beg, to add magnificence to lux. ury, wisely chooses a harmonizing brocade, ~ It it is a practical outfit that is desired, then nothing could be smarter than tweed or kashmir, and the costume coat will be inter- lined in the same manner that a winter coat is finished, so that jt can be used as a separate garment, A full-length coat of kashmir, worn keeps to straight lines, has a cop- servative collar and pot too wide cuffs of badger fur. Such a cost will be guite correct another fall, and will serve formally as well as informally, it properly considered as a costume background. Ip con- trast, a cost with a pronounced flare, with an irregular hemline, will be out of the mode when the season ends. " The fitted or shaped border of fur, oftentimes forming a flounce effect, is of this season, and it adds to the cost of the coat immeas- urably, both for the fur itself and the workmanship to achieve the desired effect. Coats with scarf collars border them with fur--a smart detail and one that can be changed another season, because there {is material with which to work, no cutting of the garment itself. The woman with 8 keen eye for lines will sense the possibilities of the elaborate model, if they exist. It may be that the coat itself is most conservative and the fur trimming can be removed and ap- plied in another way, if a second season uses its furs differently. The lavish mse of furs, both flat and long-haired, is extremely im- portant in this season's mode. Any fur at all will not do, mor can the epplication of it be skimpy. Rich peits are the choice, and they are applied so generously that they must be tallored with the same care that is given an entire coat of fur. Lynx, badger and fox are favorite long-haired furs, and beaver, putria and the curly furs are preferred flat pelts. DID YOU KNOW HAT one of the smartest of the many new fabric combina- tions is satin with fur fabric? A frock of shiny satin is topped with a jacket of fur-cloth, in imi- tation, let us say, of broadtail, but an imitation that is so accurate that it is a real achievement. THAT there is a development in the tailleur that may lead to longer coats? Already jackets are longer and many of them are double breasted, the fur collars accenting this Mpe. It is most in keeping with the spirit of this mode to apply the short-haired furs. THAT the fashion of two-plece garments bas reached the lingerie fleld? They're showing night- gowns of crepe de chine or flat crepe with a smart short skirt, gathered into an elastic band and a jumper. which are in color. Lace trims these gowns | ion of the pri the fl is an | ed costume suit combines pitention to such detalls as » hemline pattern of the velvet ip the bodice. coat repeats the lighter tone of the bodice, (3) No fur is smarter for » neckpiece than fox. fox is found to be extremely Aatindlonk omen must b Fur is being made into kerchisfs, so flat and supple that they drape and fold liks fabric. Ermine, broad- tajl and caracul are typical of the furs used for this purpose, and they make cravats as well as kerchiefs, and ties or cuffs for sleeves--io match, THE PIOTURES (1) Attention is directed to the back of this model. in the fitted bodice extending dowri over the hips. The double fiouncs dip y In and the V-pecklipe is cnt moderately low. OR (2) Two velvets in coptrast, satin and beaver for. materials great richness scalloped The satin with this somewhat bulky worn, increase breadth snd (4) When attention is given to fine details.