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Third generation of Smith family expands farm operation to include successful winery Even though cultivating orchards was already in the blood, in 1995 Irwin Smith and his wife Alissa took the family farm in anew direction by founding Ocala Orchards Farm Winery. The 100-acre farm was originally settled by Irwin’s grand- parents, George and Ella Smith in 1915 and was worked by his father Lloyd along the Uncle Les until the mid-90s. Two or three original apple trees remain from the first orchard and even at age 87, Irwin’s father still likes to putter around the farm helping out. These things maintain a firm con- nection between three generations of Smiths. ‘owing up, Irwin couldn’t muster interest in 4H, so he pur- sued his musical interests rather than get involved in his father’s purebred Holstein cattle operation. By age 24, he opened a music store in Port Perry first located where Native Perspectives is today (1978-82), and then at the corner of Queen and Simcoe St. (now Everlasting Memories) from 1982 to 1995. In addition to retail sales and lessons, Irwin had yy 000 rental i in- struments at the time his father looked to him t their grandson lissa Smith an‘ tren, Al Jackson King Large Ontario Wineries in operation since before 1993 have a wide-open playing field benefiting from multiple locations (ie- wine kiosks and on-site tasting facilities), the ability to purchase and blend bulk wine offshore to bolster stock and general clout in the indus- oa AGCO seems more interested in foreign than Canadian product. of the home farm. An employee purchased the music shop and two companies showed interest in the rental business. e early vineyard has since expanded to over 15 acres. That first vintage produced 5,000 bottles from two grape varieties and sev- eral fruit wines. Production years now average 30,000 bottles of wine and 20,000 bottles of non-alcoholic juices. Vineyards plentiful with Reisling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Auxer- riors, Muscat, Vidal, Seyval, Baco Noir, Marchel Foch, Cabernet Sau- vignon, Merlot, Gewurtztraminer and Syrah grapes make a lovely setting for a “Dine in the Vines” event several times a season. The orchards are also abundant with MacIntosh, Empire, Spar- tan, Red and Golden Delicious, Gala, Northern Spy and Cortland ap- ples as well as berry crops of black currants, raspberry, elderberry, gooseberry and Northern Hardy Kiwi. This year, the Smiths have added 500 “Honeycrisp” apple trees to the existing 3,000. “I have trouble stopping,” he says, “but I have to put on the brakes. Without outside help I’m pressed to my limit. On good days, I start at 6 o’clock and some nights if ] have to work in the orchard, it will be midnight or 1 o’clock before I’m done.” He prides himself on the hands-on aspect of the operation and attributes the success to good cultivation practices. He and a “scout” walk the orchard every Monday morning troubleshooting any prob- lems. “We like to catch any over-wintering diseases like mites or fungi long before we disturb any fruit. We oil spray on bare bark by April to suffocate eggs at the larvae stage and avoid pesticide use entirely.” The biggest bugaboo to small wineries in Ontario is not pest control, but dealing with the massive Ontario Liquor Board/AGCO (Alcohol & Gaming Commission of Ontario) system of distribution. 8 FOCUS - Aucusr 2006 Oth their producers who export. Local produc- ers are re actualy taxed more heavily as production rises. It is all a dis- incentive. As iti is, Ocala pays 25% of monthly sales to AGCO (on top of li- censing fees). Any VQA wine sold to a licensee (restaurant) is sub- ject to a 35% fee to AGCO. All other wines see 70% in levies. Should a wine be sold through the Liquor Board, it means a 60% fee. AGCO physically audits the records and inventory every seven months. The other calamity has been 9/11, the Afghan and Iraq wars and Sars. “World situations affect tourism greatly,” explains Irwin. “The last four years have been a battle agravated by three bad winters with winter kill in the orchards and vineyards due to early and extreme cold.” Before 2001, buses would roll in sometimes three at a time aided by publicity from the Durham Tourism office. Ocala still hosts be- tween 50 and 80 bus tours per year. It seems being halfway to some- where (ie- the liftlocks in Peterborough, Stoney Lake or Fenelon Falls cruises or Casinos Rama and Great Blue Heron) is a stroke of good fortune. It was buses carrying Seniors that prompted the Smiths to aban- don tents and outfit a dining/meeting room above the tasting room/ shop in the converted dairy barn. This space allows for greater com- fort to guests and introduced the possibility of serving light meals. This year’s greatest excitement was a new grape variety devel- oped in Wisconsin. It needs no spraying and is winter hardy. The oth- er news is, as always, the weather. The crops are in excellent shape due to enough rain, sunny days and cool nights. This bodes well for a plentiful harvest and an entertaining fall and Christmas season. For more information on events check www.ocalawinery.com. By Barbara Hunt focus@observerpub.ca