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By Jonathan van x Safari in Africia Nestled deep in the interior of east-central Africa is mechanisms: the first is to stomp its foot and kick up dust. Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater, one of the most spec- — The second is to flap its ears while looking at you and the tacular places on earth. A short seven hour flight to third is to raise its trunk and trumpet loudly. London, followed by a nine hour flight to Nairobi and a | asked Rafi what we would do if we encountered 14 hour Land Rover ride will land you in the centre of —_the situation and he smiled reassuringly explaining that the 120 square kilometre caldera of this natural zoo, he would immediately shut off the engine and we would abundant with thousands of animals, who have existed here for hundreds _ sit silently so that we would not pose a threat to the gi- of generations. The walls of the crater are too high for many animals to climb keeping the population in perfect balance. Several well maintained lodges have been built on the rim of the crater, but no construction is allowed in the bottom, thus ensuring the animal kingdom below remains pristine and free from human contamination. The government of Tanzania is extremely strict and enforces laws with heavy fines and penalties. Drivers are not permitted to leave the dirt trails, thereby not interfering with the natural progression of the animal world. The Ngorongoro Crater is home to 12 rare black rhinos. Each rhino has two rangers who have one purpose: to guard the nearly extinct creatures from poachers. A few months before | was there two rangers fell asleep on the job and the rhino they were guarding was killed and its hom removed. The government not only fired the rangers but permanent- ly confiscated their driver's licenses and passports, which made it difficult for them to work, seek employment or move to nearby Kenya, Zambia or Rwanda. A tough punishment, but necessary if the beauty of this region is to be protected. Every morning | would wake at five and be in the Land Rover by six. The 30 minute drive down the slopes of the crater seemed endless, as | was eager to see the activities of life in the wild. My driver, a Kenyan named Rafi, was an expert at the wheel and extremely resourceful in the search for leopards and cheetahs, animals that are becoming harder to locate as their numbers dwindle. On the second day of my trek we came upon a herd of elephants. Rafi explained to me that an elephant, when angered, has three defense JI . Caribbean XK Hawaii “= _ New Zealand Fs ™» —e 32 FOCUS - JANUARY 2009