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Elaboration Has Become the Essence] of Style-- But Simplicity is the Moral of ITH the opening of the formal season, definitely begun with the first night at the Metropolitan Opera House, the New York Shops settle down to a brief period of a new mode that is, without doubt, the most involved set of fashions that we have had for years. A real revolution against simplicity has taken place, but .this quality has not been eliminated from the scheme of things, rather it remains a truly important influence. We do not have to consult eve- ning fashions to find proof of this, but it is this formal opening of the New York social season that tells us that the fall mode has been accepted and provision made for the winter mode. Beginning with the clever new sports fashions, lines are definitely written, only the subtler shadings and nuances perceptible between those lines. It is, most truly, an intriguing tale of subtlety and sophistication. There is every opportunity for variety in any mode that draws lines between types and insists upon our keeping them. And be- fore any attempt is made to .read what is written in this newest fashion story, it will not be amiss to make mention of the influence that is everywhere at work, wheth- er it be in fashions, in frocks or bousehold furnishings. Especially is it apparent in personal acces- sories, so important an item in our costuming. A New Expression Of Art New painters, sculptors and cab- inet makers are proffering us con- crete examples of the new "Mod- erpism.," which is based on 8 wholly different use of both line and color. Patterns, forms and ideas are differently conceived, and these new expressions are effecting the decoration of our frocks, the lines they take, and the details that go to complete the ensemble. Much that is odd, bizsrre and beautiful is the inevitable result of! this trend. It is possible to resolve the chaos of pew lines into order, but to the uninitiated these lines have every appearance of running wild. Fab- rics that lend themselves to subtle drapes and flattering manipulations are important, and colors that ef- fect lines through contrast are equally so. Delightfully fanciful things resuit, and the perfect gown, worn by the sophisticate of fashion has, back of it, the power of both knowledge and wisdom. There -are many Annovations, both in the use of line and color, as well as fabric. (It is a situation that will 'change, probably for the better, as originators become ac- customed to the new tools with which they are working. To aid the buyer, the larger shops have - instituted services for the aid of the bewildered, and they add their skilled advice to the information offered in groups that are suggest- ive of perfect harmony. " Comcerning Lines in General From a fashion that is a com- glomenate of the stppight line sil- houette and the bouffant we en- deavor to separate details. There the silhouette with the low-set flape, the princesse, the slender line that is variously, but subtly conceived, and the bouffant dines of the youtiful evening gown. Erratic hemlines, even in thé semi- formal frock, are looked for and found, pointing the way to the slightly longer skirt. Lines follow the body, in many the Tale, | Instances, and there is a deal of | attention paid to the moulded hip- line, made possible by the ma- | terials that lend themselves so | pertectly to any twisting or turn- !ing the designer may conceive, Flounces, panels, tiers, .draperies iand really pert flares are all fea- tures, and all fit, perfectly, into the scheme of things, Even the smart - sports frock shows an In- | clination to flare, aithough pleats continue, Necklines show a decided prefer- ence for the V-effect, variously achieved, This, we imagine. be- cause more women find it becom~ | Ins, and the end and aim of the new fashions is becomingness. But there are deep and shallow round lines, an occasional square, and some very irregular lines that fol- low 8 trimming motif on the frock, The very deep U-line is the pre- | ferred back for the evening frock that is really formal in purpose. Are Subtly Eflective It is by the use of the material itseif that fashion writes her most important messages. Pin tucks can tell a clever tale, and incrusted bands will weave a romance of in- trigue and charm. Sometimes these bands are emphasized with pipings of another color along the edges, and they may accurate repeat, on a blouse, the lines of flounce, yoke, hip band or drape of the skirt. When satin is the fabrie, the duller reverse side fis used In the welvet frock that are, without doubt, the style leader of the moment. we see effects achieved by the material, and its manipule- tion is not a matter of folds, tucks or pleats so much as it is soft drapings. A model in black velvet, bloused above a draped hipline has a decided V-neck with just a suggestion of a lace rever. The skirt is all soft drapes, caught, at the hip, with a brilliant ornament. Accessories Adopt The New Lines fas- ; tendency fs off the face and down in the back of the neck, covering the ears, TWO BIRDS AND A SINGLE HE time is growing short to Christmas, and already the shops have taken on the mot-| time, io-be-mistaken activity that shopping trips. ridiculous to suppose that one can wholly forget the business of ing house and wardrobe up-to-the- minute, for the practical business »8SER | ; : ] Ee lst for the day. If you are seek- ing c¢ertain things, include every- thing in the same denartment on etwe Za Tm and it is pot generally becoming. So there are modifications, bring- ing into real prominence the art of buflding the hat on the head. Trimmings are not plentiful, but such as they are, they prove ex- ceedingly effective. The success or the failure of the hat depends upon its lines. Following a wery general trend for angles and squares and odd stone ll thut lst, whether it be a personal or a gift purchase. You will save ), energy and money, for are mot the first two equivalent to the third? An hour at your desk, in the quiet of your own home, will make possible a peally pleasant shop- ping excursion, and relieve yom | wholly of the fear that you will last minute, that you | Once again the yearly plea with which we are familiar. Instead of an expensive card, doomed to find homely, perhaps, but useful, sure to find a welcome out of all proportion to their cost. And in Christmas giving, as in any buying, it 4s well to remember that it is the useless thing that is expensive. THE DAILY ., _. TIMES Larsamd S/ manipulations of straight lines, handbags and shoes use them in their decoration. Incrusted bits of leather write the tale, when it comes to footwear, or the combina- tion of two leathers, or two colors of a leather. Shoe men tell us that there will be more color worn than ever, as seasons bring new fashions, and more and more the lines of last and trimming will be important. BLACK FOR SPORTS E always recognize black as the smart background of At times we ally it with white, or, again, with color, | but keeping its position throughout the changing fashion seasons, the all-black frock remains the wun- challenged leader. Occasionally it bas been (featured, with white, in the sports field, but never, until this season, has it been of- * en el ines Mode & HENEVER a new vogue (omer into being, and has survived long enough to ac- quire a bit of stability, it provides suggestions for Christmas gift giv- ing. For some time now we have been offered delightful novelties designed to aid us in keeping our wardrobes in good condition, some of these novelties closet fittings, others for use in our dresser draw- ers. In these new bits of furnish- OR want of a beiter name we call the costume that serves us for general utility purposes, a sports ensemble. We rely upon such a costume far more, for practical uses, than any other type of apparel, and naturally we seek variety. To achieve this most de- sirable characteristic, and at 8 minimum cost, we rely upon the separate garments that are offered frankly for the purpose we have in mind--the assembling of a cos- tume. Skirts and blouses, jackets and sweaters are offered in an interest- ing variety, and by a judicious choice of the part, we can assure ourselves the mecessary wholes, each outfit costing less than we would be compelled to pay for such an outfit glready assembled. We can ofter no explanation of this fact, but it may be for the reason thet shops are now specializing in parts, with economy the reason for that specialization. There is activity in the skirt de- in two or three pieces, or separate | sweaters, in this sable hue. And ones that show their inde by taking ombre linings. Velv. is an approved fabric in this new- effect 8 combination of fabrics, if not of colors. colors, and returns red to a well-deserved prominence. But it is assuming the importance of 8 vogue as winter approaches. and is featured for both daytime and evening wear. It is specially lovely with the fur coat in gray, black, fered alone as a eports fashion. |times Now that it has, we are gol to like it. ong Black is chic, sophisticated and possessing the elements of formal- ity. 'The smart shops are offering frocks in wool jersey, flannel and allied materials, and some clever little models in wool crepe, the lat- ter so indubitably smart that they even venture to go out, informally, to luncheon or tea. And these frocks have all been sponsored by the most eminent of our Parisian couturiereés for the purposes de- fined. You can obtain a sweater suit' mal tea. | a coat of fur is an important style note. Sports models in ved ave to be had in wool---either crepe or jersey, and follow the Mnes laid down for this type. Velveteen is popular, the two-piece dress pre- ferred. If a bit more formality is requived. then the frock of silk crepe 18 approved, touched, per- haps, with taflored simplicity, but by virtue of fabric and color laying claim to the privilege of attending luncheon, the matinee, the infor- ti of white crepe de chine that can be dyed the exact shade desired. Deep wine red is a favorite day- time shade, and velvet shoes match in tone. I A Christmas Suggestion or Two ment we can find solutions of gift problems, Dresser or wardrobe boxes come in various shapes and sizes, divided in different ways, with or without covers, according to the purpose for which they are designed. They are smartly covered with figured paper or with cretonne, and are distinct aids in keeping pairs of things separated, articles of the same type together, and have the are very different in color, pattern and line, each from the other. The colors involved are important, for they oftentimes suggest the gen- eral color scheme of the ensemble. There are flannel] skirts, in plain colors and patterned weaves, and some of these skirts have yoked tops. Broadcloth is another ma- terial that is finding favor as & result of the luxury trend in the mode, and wrap-around skirts of this fabric feature fulness, the fitted bip also stressed. Then there are velveteen skirts, and a few of velvet, the two latter ma- terials extending their activities to semi-formal and formal purposes. When it comes to blouses for this purpose, crepe or satin are the preferred choices. A crepe back satin, a silk crepe or & heavy satin will be correct, the crepe back weave more versatile than either of the others, since it can trim itself and provide a contrast in doing s0. Some of the models are tuck-in, but more are over blouses, iand they follow the fashionable trend toward a definitely moulded hipline. Because the idea of making up a costume is a popular ome, the blouse section features separate | advantage of being space conserve ing. They have scores of uses--for hosiery, trinkets, gloves and the like, If one cannot afford a shoe cab~ inet, then the next best aid is the shoe rack that keeps shoes off the floor, free from dust and disorder, There are bronzed rings to support 2 hat and beneath the ring there Is a hook for the coat, a space con~ serving arrangement easily at- tached to the closet door. Then there are ornamental hat stands that set on the closet shelves, keep~ ing each hat safe from the crush ing it may, otherwise, get. Matched fittings for closets are obtainable, and one can make up a set of hat stands, padded hanger and shoe trees in any color pres ferred, Sachets are to be had for the hanger, if one yearns for the juxury touch. And there are dec- orative bottles for the bath closet shelves, many of them attractively decorated and usable for various purposes. They can be had with or without labels that describe the content of the bottle, ASS LNMBLLIYG A ------ SPORT L7XSLENTLBLE combined with a skirt of velvet or of satin. Such an outfit is quite correct for luncheon or the mats inee, and not too elaborate to be classed as semi-sports or semi- formal. The high colors combined with metal threads are effective in blouses for wear with a black skirt. In the sweater shops we find some interesting applications of modernistic art, for the patterns are woven into the fabric. Yom can, if you like, start your collee- tion of garments with a knitted suit made up of skirt and blouse, even a jacket, and proceed from there. The slip-on type is the fav- orite, and necklines vary. Colors are pronounced and there are some startling, as well as subtle, color combinations, calling for a sober skirt! The jacket craze aids in the process of assembling effective sports ensembles, for this garment is, primarily. of this group. Flan- nel, broadtail cloth, velvet, wel- veteen, tweed and the various novelty wools are approyed. and then there is the fur et that can be made to "go" with every- thing. But whatever your choice, of skirt, jacket, sweater, blouse, keep color always in mind. It is blouses of metal cloth or of velvet | the most important factor of them to be used in this manner, i mm -- -- 4 I 41 h