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Trends of Apparen! Consequence Are Makiny Their Appearance -- F ulness Continues An Important Cha: acteristic. T is 8 time of ShoWings--mid- | edge or in collar style. and there season, Palm, Beach and ad-!are a very great many ways of ance Spring displays. And It' using the fabric of which the frock 8, therefore, a time of intense is made. One may go for Informa- inierest to the woman who Is con- | tion to the new, smart models in stantly alive to fashion trends. The high colors that are designed, pri- holidays over, trunks are being | marily, for wear with the fur coat. packed for the winter playgrounds, There are some interesting shades which means both summer and|in this group, and they bring winter sports apparel, and the trouble to the wearer when she smartest and most up-to-date fore mal attire. Much that is new re- wards the seeker for novelty. And everything new is scrutinized with very great care, for in the model frock or coat may lurk the germ of a very new fashion, and every model will give interesting data on the continuance or discard of themes already in use. The new frock that is to do service the rest of the present season may just as well incorporate the latest details into its smartness. To be sure of them, we must know what they are. The new fabrics and colors are proffered, and tentative silhouettes, although the latter are sure to undergo many changes before they settle into the approved spring lines. We are keen on the track of fulness, variously applied, and would know if jt is to meet with fashion approval, and we would learn the latest news concerning waistline, meckline. sleeves and all the general details that go to make up the finished model. The Subject Of Fulness 4 If you expect a return to the | attempts to wear something with them that has been quite correct with another shade of the same color. The elope neckline, a diago line with a wee drapery, a collar that is shaped with shir- rings, and a bib effect, triangular, jare instances. And vestees of | ivory, beige or ecru lace, or col- | lars, or fiat, pleated jabots of lace | are noted. J Certain Trends Persist | The mid-season showings stress | formality, feminine elaboration-- | best when it is sophisticated and variety. Nowhere can we detect | | even a whisper against any one of { the three, and it looks as though | they would become fundamentals, | rather than characteristics that | must be watched and checked up with the inception of each new sea- |son. Of course. no ome can Aac- | eurately predict anything. but there | is a basis for thewopinion expressed. ' | Designers a approving the | vogue of the wool dres which is | important now, and will. undoubt- | | edly be important throughout the spring. So sheer and fine are the | new wool Georgettes and crepes A CHANGE IN MODE THE Gy Lavon From frock will continue important, and detalls that stress it continue. Capes on coats, also on frocks. wide scarfs that turn! into small capes. these show how | great is the interest In the back of the model, Scarfs will be used more, and In more ways, than ever, and the general silhouette will make use of flares, godets, drapes und flounces that attract attention Lo the back of the model. The hemline changes very little, and it certainly is no shorter. por, so far as we can observe, any longer. Daytime skirts cover the knees. and evening skirts keep to the short hem In front but dip in| back. It is interesting to note that the new coat models, planned for resort wear, are undeviatingly straight of line. Scarcely a mouel | appears that does not boast a trim- | ming of fur. a collar, and in many | instances, cuffs. DID YO UKNOVY -- THAT Paris insists that the deb- utante possess a frock of red, another of black and a third of | beige. and then graciously permits | her to choose any other color she! pleases. Silk crepe, satin and chiffon are suggestions, when it | comes to materials, and lines are, of course, In the mode. TIMES ee @ -------- 'straight line silhouette, devoid of that one has to 100k closely to be fulness, then you will not realize | sure that the materia) is not silk | your expectations. But you willl or crepe. and the wools are worked | find that it is. in many instances, |in much the same manner. show- an appearance of fulness rather|ing a preference. for pin tucks. than actual width, a return to] sagotting. and all the various meth what we knew, at the inception of | ods of fabric working observed in this idea. as the kinetic silhouette. | silks and crepes. It has been cleverly described as | The Back Of The Model the achievement of width by | stealth, for it is, in many instances| There are indications that the applied fulness. For the most part the designer applies her skill to the top of the silhouette and to the bottom. The space between is barren land so far as new and interesting details are concerned --that is, at the mo- ment. As the months pass the sit- mation may be reversed, and the waistline and the upper part of the skirt may come in for attention undamentals of a season's For the present we shall concen fashions, and then playing trate on this new fulness, necklines | cusnges through the medium of and sleeves. color. So outspoken is fashions In a way the mew fulness is just ' approve! of color that no wardrobe # refinement of the first offering is complete without at least ome that had, at times, more than e | gay-toned frock, or one in which ittle awkwardness, especially when | the vogue for color contrast ie ex- the wearer had fewer than average | emplified. Colors are. in general, finches to her credit" The applica- | very flattering. although you must tion of fulness solves this problem | find which color, or shade, fn a clever way, for it leaves a | yours. section of the skirt straight. lnset in the models that are offered flares. panniers and applied flounces | for wear under the fur coat we ESIGNERS seem to have ac- quired a habit of setting the COLOR IS = IMPORTANT is | tone. black with a bright blue, alto THAT designers are turning their attention to the back of the cos- | tume? An up-in-the-back move- | ment has been begun. and a col- | lection of Georgette frocks in a smart shop featured it for a ais- | plsy. Raspberry. chianti-red. gray | and an odd new blue were the! colors, and details were very clever. | that we are enjoying now. If you are inclined to (favor combinations in color, then it is well to know what combinations fashion approves. They can be listed in & general way, but al shades will not comoine effective MOST = p---- | | HILE the interest im win- | skirt, worm over bloomers, and a ter sports is increasing sweater-jacket combination is the every season, calling those wise choice. If one skils there is iy, and there are some combina who may take a vacation nothing quite as smart or appro- tions that will prove unusal and #. .uls season of the year to the] priate to the purpose as an outfit different. Examples of this have | fascinating playgrounds plan made up of belted jacket and long | been noted. as violet with a peach | for the purpose, one does not have | trousers. | vacation to indulge in these | go, .} on outfit is made, by many certain shade of beige with amp | Pastimes. And there is mo single | 0 the smartest outfitters, of water- equally certain shade of gray. {type of apparel that makes such | proofed gabardine. In one shop Black is so very fashionable that | rigid demands, as to ease, warmth ! there were models in this fabric, {in different departments, or | rights, in combinations, go single piece an odd piece, but all capable of being used in making up an outfit with- out stopping to consider appro- § priateness of color or. styling." Ap- propriate garments will be found all grouped together for ease in se- lection. Choice in colors should be carefully made. | The separate skirt is the first J and work into an ensefible ex- | ceedingly well. There are jackets. of wool, matched by caps, or. the cap ean be of the skirt material. there are velveteen jackets And those of fur, the latter lined with | wool for extra warmth, Bweaters enter into the scheme of things, and are to be had in scores of | designs and in many weaves and | different yarns. Matching sets in- | clude sweaters, caps, gloves and Bhoes There is another type of winter | sports clothes made necessary by | the group who do not take an | active part, but are interested on- lookers. For this purpose thers | » | Mu wd ALOUD eftects are #0 I S oriant in the fashions of the Jirent season that one pre- «popuses the glitter of metal threads. metallic The brocades, lames and materials belong. by to evening (fashions, but | they steal away to brighten formal | | afternoon attire whenever they | can. Combined with velvet they | make interesting frocks that can | be worn under the velvet coat or| the fur wrap. Both gold and sliver are used, although the former is effective with more colors, the latter spe-! cially lovely with the slate blues that are so well liked. SfHiver with gray is not as striking as some of | tbe combinations, but it fs con- | sidered smart, and sapphire blue fs i much better with silver than with gold. An evening coat of metal | brocade in sapphire and silver, col- | lnred with gray fox, is stunning Sometimes the background is 8] solid metal with a design 'worked | out in color, more than one. Gold {and orange combine well, also i gold and green, or & combination is nothing smarter than the knitted costumes that are ap- proved for both town and country wear, Trimmings are knit into the de- sign whenever it is possible, and the effect of bands and pipings is 8 favorite treatment. These bande sometimes outline a jacket effect on the jumper. The kerchief theme, which continues excellent in general sports fashions. is knit into the costume at neck and hip- line. It provides the sole decora~ tion for the outfit, Cape suggestions are frequent, also the use of bows with scarf ends, or without them, knitted into the fabric. There are a very great many diagonal treatments, and it is pecéssary thet mention be made of the uli-black costume, which can be complemented with gay ac- cessories. Both the knitted and woven tweeds are used for this, or a fine yarn jersey. TAL EFFECTS IN FASHION favor aL present are violets, roses snd gardenias, although there are many novelties and the usual pum- ber of boutopnieres made up of several flowers. mee A WHAT IS "MODERNISM? " HEN the sales lady speaks glibly of a "modernistic motif," we are inclined to be sacptical concerning the practical- ity of the purchase. Is this a re- sult of disbelief in the future of this pew art, or a general haziness of comception concerning it? There jen't & doubt that this thing that we kpow as modernism fs an out- growth of the spirit of the times, an expression of growth that dates back at least 8 decade. art is, when it comes into ty and is given 8 name. & culm n of several years of progiess slong a definite line. They tell us that the modernism of today fo the futurism of yesterday. and that what we know as futurismn today will be tomorrow modernism. And if we but care to be analytical, i So | we shall see that this newest art popular a thing as metal is bound [is Quite consistent with life as we to extend its influence, and we are | know it today. all color and gayety. not surprised to find it the most Probably the thing that most popular note in the new floral of- | impresses us in modernistic effects ferings that are using velvet, felt, | 0 color. and after that. line Sur- plush and silk, as well as all-| vey out general fashions and what | , 46 we find --a growing emphasis | Velvet flowers with metal leaves on color and a steady in- |mccent the gown of taffete or crease in the importance of line. | moire. especially effective on the| fit is the same with our house fur- | latter. Or the flowers may be of | pishments. shether we consider | taffeta and worn on chiffon, even lamps and occasional furniture or | velvet. Entire flowers are mide | linens. draperies. china and pot- of metal, or this stuff is combitied | tery. for both notes are sounded with felt. The blossome mast in 'atrongly in them all are noted in the néw models and | Ara some interesting shades, and Shey all serve to achieve the de-) pn in {we are sure to find it combined (and practicality, as the garments | and they were black, navy blue. a | item. and it is to be had in tweeds, |i - they are interesting. not because | and in the approved Worn for skating, skiing and kin-| 040 of green kmown as "pine." | homespun, novelty wools and in sired effect. of, but in spite of their names, The New Neckiines Vary which fin some anstances do not The prominence of meckline de- mean a thing. And it happens fails is most gratifying, for we all | that these gay-hued pealize how necessary fit is that the | frccks are taking oo the colors fMne be a becoming one. [In some | planned for fesont wear and. models the trimming lines decide them we cab Ket a hint as to the the neckline, but the return of the | relative values of the shades diagonal and the continuance of | will. lates. be worm in the north sssymetric lines have their effent. Red, they say. wil There is not even a shred of an | honors in the southern excuse for this prt of the frock to (and blue will continue prove unbecoming. for mothing is! important. expressing barred, and there are mew treat- |taice in an entirely new range of ments that assure differentness shades. Goeen and Round. square, diagonal, bateau, | occupy a prominent the V-line or the sguared V-line |coler card. and as are all noted, and there is. usually, | the approach of spring at least a suggestion of trimming. | gray will try for position. So far The latter may be folds of chiffon, | we note the utter absence of or bandings, or lace, applied as an! hrown which is so popular in the A list we note red, yellow. blue, | dred sports {and a mew Mve beige. The gar-| beige. ivory, peach and orange.! In nbling a wardrobe of | ments were perfect in their work- | incidentally. black is prominently | this type there gan be no economy | manship and ip their lines, and featured for evening wear, and) practiced when it comes to ma-| were carefully tailored. With such white as well. The shades of Lap terials. Wool is the outstan a costume an accessory ensemble, and brown combine with shades of | material, and it is aided by leather, | made up of scarf, cap. mittens and peach, ivory. gold. green. blue, | fur and velvet or velveteen. And | puttees would be correct. ° | orange or beige. and with each |there can be no half-way applica- Incidentally, these ensembles, other. These. for wear during the tion of the general principle that | which fit 4nto other costumes coming winter months." sports clothes shall be loose enough | equally well, are very gay and at- Red with green. with gold, with, for comfort and light of weight, ! tractive affairs. There are sets white, with yellow. with gray but warm. It has been the busl-| that have been hand-knit by scores heavily--can you imagine mess of the designer to assure peasants and they show the colors some of these combinations five | smartness. for which European countries are years ago? Scarlet is lovely with The playgrounds at Quebec, St. | famous. The cap nesembles a blue violet, 'blue-green or slate | Moritz and Lake Placid are sources | tam-o-shanter and the scarf and blue. Violet Hkes lemon yellow [of authentic information concern- | gloves are fringed, two or nore or gold. blue takes scarlet, gold. | ing the various costumes that are | colors worked into the pattern. gray. orange or brown. And green | appropriate for this special pur- combines well with gold, white, | pose. It is apparent that for gen- orange or red » eral wear out-of-doors the short then it is an excellent idea to choose zarments that can he used velveteen. A skirt in plain color and another in plaid, the colors in the latter including the same color as the plain toned skint, would make an excellent founda- tion for ensemble purposes. Width in the skirt is imperative. and 4t can be achieved by means of pleats, or fit can be generously flared. It must be short. Jackets ave widely varied. and there are reasons for thinking the jacket vogue in general f got its impetus from the sports mode. Fine glove leather. or suede, is an excellent material, and when a jacket of this warm fabric is lined with wool, kasha a very | If one peally goes in for sports good choice, warmer, or smanter. ete come in all the bright colors dons J