The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

" il | THE DAILY TIMES Spe aA of LASTLY A SURVLY of the INTER MODE Ly Barsama rvs stone jewelry is the smartest thing for evening wear. Of course, diamorids are out of the question for lavish use, but diamond cut stones make a satis- factory substitute, Emeralds and synthetic rubies are used in com- Possibilities Have Become Actualitics and New Possibilities Have Appeared -- It Marks a Distinct Advance. T may be spring, even summer, ' as sharply as they are between ap- n some of the shop windows, ut it is very definitely winter on the streets, And prophesies of what we will wear four or parel for skiing and that for bath- ing. ¢ Other things have been settled, too, and* we now accept the fem- five months from now may deter-{, 0 4home the afr of formality in mine the new frock we are buying | oo... at present, but for the most part we are subscribing to, and enjoy-| oe is ef ing, the clearly defined winter| mode that has marked a very defi- | nite step along the way to sophis-| types, and elegance as laces, furs, jewelry tively ornate, and everything that contributes to rich- ness of effect is approved, with the result that any gathering presents fundament ticated smartness. jan air of well-being and prosperity If we were to choose one -char- acteristic from the many that are | important, perhaps luxury would be the preference so far as true growtn has been recorded, Other characteristics contribute to this one, for the more intricate the lines, the more feminine the themes, the more formal the types, the more exotic are the resultant effects, It Is easy to observe that everything contributes to this end. Materials and colors are both in- volved in the winter mode, and they, as much as anything, serve! the purpose for which all funda-| mentals exist in the fashion pano- rama of the day. They contribute to variety, and are comprehensive enough so that they make possible | real versatility no matter what the | type, and there isn't a doubt that | the winter mode is made up ofl separate and distinct types. The Costume Fits The Affair | Just any sort of a frock, of a certain type, will not do, for the costume must be absolutely in har- mony with the occasion and the background. As an example of this we have evening dresses, which must include formal and informal models, material oftentimes the decisive factor. One dines in chif- fon, attends the theater in a lace frock with a coatee oi the lace, dances In jeweled Georgette, goes out informally in crepe! This idea is apparent in every group, no matter what the hour of the day, and lines are drawn quite that is pleasant to |! old, and to share, Clothes eo! a rei tonle, these days. The Ensemble Deserves Mention Winter fashions have set the final seal of general approval on the ensemble, which is now accepted as the basis of the carefully thought-out costume, There is no limit to the combinations that can be effected in both daytime and evening ensembles, and wool and crepe, velvet with silk crepe, lame or satin, and other notable com- binations are featured. No matter what the activity, the ensemble costume is correct, It is bargain time in the shops, and if one needs a coat, it is pos- sible to find a conservative model of rich fabric, trimmed with an expensive fur, at a bargain price. The preferred fabric is kashmir and the preferred color black, but all of the featured winter colers are to be had, and furs are either | black or beige with black, or black and the usual color range of furs with coats in color. Separate frocks in high colors are a featured mid-winter fashion, | and they are made of silk or of sheer wool, and the finest, that f{s, those with the finest handiwork, come from France. With a black coat, or with a fur coat, they are extremely effective, and it is con- sidered ultra-smart to match the frock--exactly, to a little hat of crepe or satin, the crepe models either quilted or stitched in an in- LL ------ THE PICTURES (1) A skater that, at first glance, seems lightly clad. But each separate garment is planned with warmth in mind, the while it permits freedom of movement, 8 close weave, and the sweatel stockings, are of pure wool, (2) The dress coat of black fabric is fur-trimmed. The flair for the black coat that began early in the season has continued. It is smart when trimmed with black fur, and it is equally smart when trimmed with colored fur, but it must be fur- This del is typical. (3) She who toboggans must look to her apparel. eold-proof and snow-prool, yet s to either quality. of wool, and two pairs of stockings serve a purpose. boots are imperative, (4) Winter sports include that of snowshoeing. In the oudit pictured there Is a generous use The knickers ure of jersey in r, scarf and cap, matched by It must be maripess need not be sacrificed High This outfit is an ensemble in plain and plaided wool, and the jacket Is a slip-on affair that may be worn either open or close at the neck, to come down over the boots or (5) I'wo ensembles combine in trousers are the foundation, and 8 group that is made up of gloves, but notice the general tendeney Possible spills are considered and the trousers are cut moccasins, this smart outfit. ' Coats and the costume Is completed with ap and sweater. One cannot to vomfort that is evidenced in winter sportswear, wools predominating. (8) Sports coals keep to straight, slender lines, tweed or some novelty wool for. long-haired furs, fox a special favorite, They choose their fabric, and they wear the With spring in mind, we make note of the fact that the silhouette of this model shows no Hare--It interests. (7) The huntress dresses the part, and looks it. practical ciothes are imperative, rough places, Stout boot= and as the sport will take her Into A single-breasted, pocketed jacket and a skirt that cap be transformed into trousers give her comfort and freedom, both Lmperative. t-icate design. Certain Details Are Stressed After all, the main Interest in any mode is the silhouette, for our frocks and coats will stand or fall by their lines. We can give the present mode credit for a softening of the lines of the silhouette, and the establishment of variety in those lines. The {Irregular hem- line is no longer a novelty, and the molded hipline is the preferred one. Necklines possess variety, al- though the V-line is the favorite. Attention must be directed to- ward the princesse line which may endure and may not. It receives factor in spring and summer fash- '| daytime wear when the weather | recognition. however, as a possible 1 ions, although rather more atten- ence at work in the Palm Beach fashions, and it has been given the name as recorded above. | It comes from the tendency to | wear <leeveless frocks and those jeut very low in back--a sort of | reciprocity, as it were, for it orig- | inated with the evening back bath- Ing suit. You are not smart, if you are. not tanned, that fis, if Coe a very definite influ- The ""Sun-Tan'" Mode |you live in .a climate where the | tanning process is possible, | But whether you do, or do not, | the vogue should interest you, for tit will appear in the north later | {in the year, when the weather per- mits. They are showing the new | speite fabrics on sun-tanned man- nequins in one shop, and garments | | blouses, too. tion is given sports apparel for keeps us out of doors. So im- portant is the princesse theme that it has already brought back the fitted corset, and aroused an inter- est in curves. I'lares are important, and they begin rather low on the skirt, ap- proached by way of this same molded hipline. They tell us that both of these details will be re- tained, and make mention of ruffles and drapes and panels and tiers, also of scarfs and capes and jabots, 80 we can assume that much that has been delightful will be carried over to the next mode. Few de- tails have been lost in the try-out process, . They are featuring buttonless coats as a part of this vogue, and they are made of dotted silk, quilt- ed calico and various fabrics, un- lined. Then they are offering double-breasted coats and frocks to use up the buttons they save on the buttonless coats! Frocks of pique, in white and the pastels, are made exactly like a double- breasted coat, and they are smart! Jumpers are double-br +d and And this word jumper brings us to the nautical note that is sound- ed in so many of the new, smart garments, Cretonnes are patterned with sailboats and used for beach coat purposes. Blue flannel yacht- ing jackets, mid-ship reefers of | knitted cheviot with brass buttons, ' NE hardly knows where to her there are circular skirts and | fabrics. begin in an enumeration of |all manner of jackets and sweaters Suits, the many gay and colorful |(o help her look smart, but they | garments that have been pro- vided for the sportswoman who snowshoes, skiis, hunts and tobog-~ gans. But perhaps it is best to begin with the blanket assertion that whatever the choice of ap- parel may be, it must combine practical comfort with warmth, which means that the major por- tion of the costume will be made of wool, For wool will keep one warm when furs will not, and even the leather coat is lined with wool. And we might as well be business-like about it--the warmest and most comfortable snow-land outfits dis- card skirts and take to trousers, the long kind that fit into the boot tops, the boots themselves the stoutest possible, and waterproofed. With them one wears at least two pairs of wool socks, oftener three. This type of costume is really a skiing outfit, but it is worn for all outdoor purposes, if one excepts riding. No use reminding us of the fact that such a costume is masculine in a feminine mode--it is, and it is not, for while it is pat- terned after men's attire, it be- comes distinctly feminine through the use of color 'in its make-up, and its Alpine, Norwegian or Brit- ish' origin assures Its comfort. So broad a statement as this does | that are offered as a part of this | pathing suite with sailboal 'ap- [not mean, necessarily, that skirts | mode do interesting and original | pliques and gay little gob's hats in |are out. It would be a pity if they things. Frocks are frankly sleeve- | | less, whether they are made of silk, silk pique, toile de Soie or cotton. color are seen along the smartest beaches, adding a zestful note to] the scene. were, for we can imagine figures that would appear at a decided dis- advantage in a skiing outfit. For | bination with white, to carry out | color effects, CONTRIBUTIONS TO 2 SMARTNESS ® HE shops are full of them, made colored footwear a classic, the little things of fashion, and for two reasons, that add a touch of verve to} It isn't wholly the fact that color the costume, or take from it |in shoes solves ensemble problems, every bit of its style and charm-- |; (5 the happiness that it brings according us they are appropriate {, the wearer. 'The woman who :pbropriate, ARG in keeping may pot wear red, but must keep the spirit of the times they | orful, happy bits of charm, |to more sober colors, may have red to raise the spirits of (shoes with her black frock, or vell as the tone of | black shoes with red heels and necessary and [strengthen the -note with a touch lof red on the frock. Somewhere we can wear every color, so prodigal is fashion with the use | important, | If you view costume accessories from a modern angle, as you should do, then you will stress of it, color and line, for the new mod- There {s something smart in ernistic trend in art does just this. |every fashion for everybody--as This trend is having more and |even so small a thing as a pendant more effect on design, in fabrics, | will prove. There are women who | for ance, or the settings of our find that a pendant on a slender | jewelry, the frames and trimmings |chain Is far more appropriate than of our handbags, the seamings and beads or a necklace of some sort, trimmings that make our frocks|She can choose from a wide array 1 It will in- [that includes pendants of jade, chrysoprase, synthetic stones set in Have you ever applied the old |Mmarcasite, lovely cameos, that may saying "As a man thinks, so is|also be worn as pins, crystals, he," to your clothes? Have you |carved flowers ever scen a woman, dressed to the; There is variety in everything, so utniost of her taste, good or bad, |Wide a variety that there is no {that was not smarter for the excuse for a line or a color or a | thought that her clothes were dis-|type that is not becoming. Hand- They may! bags are all shapes and styles--the hut that did | pouch is, perhaps, a bit smarter, ana coats distinctive, crease in importance, | tinctive and becoming. | not have been either, ! not lessen the effect of what she, | but if you prefer the envelope, it | herselt, thought? Back of the new | 18 to be had, and in many styles. [elegance and smartness there 4s] Shoes, are hulls on many lasts, a eleg ance ; ! |smart New York shop recently fea- | happiness, if you will but see it] turing stubby short vamp 'shoes that way. jalongside long vamp models. Colors are happy. There Is fire| You can wear a hat of fur, of in the reds, life in the blues and | felt, of fabric, or of straw--if you greens, and even black and white are that venturesome, although take color to make them chic, there are months enough for straw, Sports togs are stressing white, but (and there are other materials that i . oar + 'are more appropriate to the sea- not alone, and black, always smart, son. Hoslery, by the way. is take when accented with 0 hn geeper hues, winter shades strong color. And it is not frocks they call them, and they are more alone that are gay-toned, it is'practical, and, at the same time, <hoes and jewelry, and scarfs and seem to fit into the winter color |serchiefs. The winter mode has scheme with more appropriateness. {is smarter Lost shades imaginable, for snow fs {a perfect background. There are jalways some who are reactionary, {go certain designers feature black rand navy blue, but somehow or PORT TOG for Zero\Weot er |are skating costumes, and so classi- filed, For skiing there is nothing as practical as trousers. If you really enjoy the out-of- | doors, then you can skate and ski lyour way to slenderness, that is, if ! you do not put on the poundage you take oft at the dinner table later. Clothes are so light of weight, yet warm, that one hardly feels them, and they stand out in a distinet contrast to the bulky woolen gar- ments that were the approved fashion a score of years ago. Bulk is wholly out of the question now- adays. If* you crave variety in your sports wardrobe, and wish that variety to touch the type of gar- ments included, as well as the gar- ments themselves, then you can have a skiing outfit and a skating costume, and the result will give colors and general effects. There must be a generous supply of ac- and they must be chosen warmth, first of all, in mind. Skirts are flared or pleated or divided, and they are made of practically any lightweight wool, for knickers are worn beneath them. In a consideration of wool be kept in mind--hard, plain sur faces are better if there is danger particles and do not become damp. Gabardine and whipcord are sneh you a wide variety in materials, | i'mode, as it rightly should, being | experie cessories for both types of costume, | the resultant cold. with [are approved for wear both with | the skirt and the trouser suit, and | designs to these accessories and jas would | some stunning effects in this type|are set against a peutral back- | tion of a spill, for 'they shed the snow | {other brilliant reds and greens and orange are more in keeping with They are used for trouser (the spirit of play, as well as the { winter setting in which the play is There are two types of trousers staged. lin favor at the moment, the Jud-| H 1 por, that was first introduced for) Accessories of Gay Wool riding habits, and the Norwegian | trouser. The former is wide at the C Hi tina! selection of the skat- ee A eee {top and fs then fitted below the ing or skiing suit does not com- | knee, and from there to the ankle. plete the task of providing an 'he latter is loosely cut all the way | outfit for these sports, and this is, {down and Is held In at the ankle|in 2 way, fortunate, for the road by the boots which usually show | 0 smartness is marked by mile- | short, rolled socks above them, as | stones in gay costume details of |do many of the outfits, | warm wool. It is quite possible to | Jackets tor wear with the short| make a somber toned suit an ex- | skirted suit are made of broad- tremely festive affair by the use {eloth, suede, sheepskin or glove of hosiery, gloves, scarfs and head- | leather, and the linings are quite | weer that simply blaze with color. |as important as the material. Fur| They are wearing sashes with {lines a broadcloth jacket, and wool the trouser suits that feature the {is the choice for both leather and | Russian blouse, and one effective | sheepskin. Then there is the|outfit brought life to its somber- hooded "Parka," of some wool or ness with a fringed scarf and sash, lof eiderdown, which slips on over | socks, gloves and a tasseled tuque the head and has a zipper fasten-|of brilliant red--the suit itseit was ing. The hood may be edged with black. Another outfit matched fur, socks and gloves to the sweater, Russia sports which was striped in gay colors, {and the hat was a helmet, match- need in jee and snow and |ing the Norwegian ski-suit of true Jussian blouses | Davy blue. They are applying modernistic enters into 'the be expected there are they seem most appropriate, They of garment. Sweaters play a part, ground, oftentimes, as beige, tan or and it. is quite safe to say that! white. One can assemble an out- practically every woolen fabric fit that will include as many as fabrics there is one point that must I used for sports purposes has been seven pieces, If scarf and sash, long waterproofed to offer sure protec- |and short socks, gloves and cap are chosen to match. There are The question of color is {m-|times when one is inclined to take portant, and for the most part|up skating or skiing, seriously, just there is a tendency to use the gay-|to wear the sports togs,