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THE DALLY LLL IU They Will Be, With Few Exceptions, the Important Modes for Spring -- It Behooves Us toWatch Them. LL through the autumn ~-droll idea, of calico, months the attention of fash-| the little quilted niodels fon interested women is cen- | latter fabric 'peasant' tered on Blarritz, the inter- | keeping to what were national Mecca of the smart, lels- | humbler materials, there are coats ure class. And this situation exists | ang frocks, and therefore, entire because it is there that we get our suits of gingham, Incidentally, we first hint of resort modes, and the [3iwavs mention tweeds nh spring mode that is more than six : months away, in calendar gates, | = They call the and the of coats, once er ---- Trunks going south are filled with the survivals of this presentation vt new fashions, . 8 The climate presupposes light | ai welght fabrics, gay colors and all | the details of summer styles, or, at least, of spring offerings, We | are already convinced that there will be enttons, rayons, lightweight wools, chiffons, crepes and silks, with many novelty materials that combine hitherto unfriendly yarns with each other. One Is never sure what goes into the making of the! textile sne finds interesting. Combinations, both of color and fabric, are important, and the use of cotton with wool, is stressed, the term cotton used in a general sense | to include linen or any materials | that do not have silk threads in| them, Wool is also combined with silk, the latter used for coals and | worn with wool skirts, and, many times, with a wool sweater, Indi- viduality is becoming increasingly different. to achieve, hence this novelty, Complete Costumes Prevail Everything, nowadays, is chosen with the idea of the completed en- | semble in mind, for while costume | usually means ensemble, the latter term is applied in a wider sense, including "sets" of jewelry, of of! apparently unrelated things that are assembled in the interests of | harmony in accessories. So it is! imperative that one bear this al- ways in mind, whether choosing a frock, a coat, or a bar pin as an! ornament, One of the 'noticeable modes, Just now, is pique, and the weave is simulated in heavier materials, | as velveteen and velvet. The smart shops are featuring pique ensem- | bles, those in pastel colors the! favorites, .and while the frock and | the coat may match, and they often do, it is a wee bit smarter! to stripe or figure the frock and | wear it with a coat in plain color. | Velveteen pique makes coats and | entire costumes. { At Biarritz they wore a deal of Shantung silk, which argues well for that material in resort, and later, in spring and summer fash- which are | by Sarsans "Wirmvsconw Cw v rd Zs C 'Did You Know- HAT the separate frock of some printed material has be- come a year-round fashion, a classic, so to speak? Just at the moment the popular print 1s gay of color against a dark back ground, and there are few daytime occasions that are too formal for a frock of this type, THAT the most practical skiing costume imaginable is made up of homespun breeches and a leather coat with a zipper fastening? Or the breeches may be of corduroy or gabardine, If you prefer, al- though the color will be a bright red or blue or green whatever the fabric, THAT handbag fashions include top handle or back-strap pouch bags, correct for either street or dress, and black, brown and tan are the smart winter shades? Antelope, suede or calfskin are the faghionable leathers, and frames, fittings and clasps are exquisitely fine, THAT the coat of the moment, for mid-winter wear in the north, is black with a collar of mink fur, or some shade of brown? Kashmir is a favorite material and the collar is a huge shawl affair, and there are deep cuffs to match, An ultra smart, luxurious fashion, THAT there is a decided vogue for red, and the reddest sort of red, in both northern and southern models? Entire ensembles, as of broadcloth, fur-trimmed, appear in this color, White sports frocks choose it for accessories, and fure coat dresses make much of it. THAT the small black hat is ap- proved for immediate wear? It may be of felt, a snug little affair that fits the head closely and Is long at the sides and in back, or it may be of satin--a turban or beret, And satin combines with woel tricot when the latter is not used alone. E have come to accept the lew man-made materials that (UK use of synthetic yarns, anu manufacturers have been busy creating new effects and enlarging ions, Tussor silk is another fea- tured fabric, and suits of this! lovely stuff are to be had in white -- * or the pastels. mention that so far as can be seen, | season. white is the basis of the sports| Details Are Of Interest wardrobe, but not, you will under-| ye may never lose sight of the stand, white wholly unrelieved by |sjceveless dress, nor should we color. ; forget that the separate jacket is Two Linens Are Combined | necessary to it, or that this fashion There is nothing more attractive | of the jacket is a well-established for summer wear than linen, jjons. Peench designers gre rom :: ng he one-piece n he A in its Jengercy to preference to the two-piece affair, A ey are making suits leaving two pieces to the skirt and of this fabric, the skirt and coat blouse which make up two parts of of heavy weave and the blouse of [the three-piece ensemble. Skirts handkerchief linen--it works out are a trifle longer, but not much. very well indeed. And with the | Mention must be made of the flair. for combinations, both of |sun-tan back which is being fea- materials and colors, there are in- | tured in daytime dresses, evening teresting separate frocks and coats | [rocks and bathing suits--we can that can be worked over into |readily see that it will be best if stunping ensembles. the lines of all three agree! Belts arate dresses of pique, linen, |2nd scarfs and jabots of color, or Rajah, Shantung and Tussah silks, as well as those of silk crepe abound, and they run the range of colors in plain tones, and there are prints galore. Probably more of thes¢ frocks are sleeveless than with sleeves, but it must be under- stood that they are listed in the | but the coats that have become im- sports category and are for morn- | perative, the headwear and foot- ing wear, or for the purpose defi- | wear. the umbrellas, beach mats, nitely designated in their names-- sport-frocks. Coats seek many fabrics to lend spo dress important in the sports mode. Beachwear Is Alive With Color color--strong, vivid, bizarre. them wariety, and are of linen, [checked linen. coats, Terry cloth |with gold, or creamy beige with |and themes. migue. welveteen, wool ratine and icoats in the favorite red. white It is only fair to | combined with cotton or linen, this|and bh of some printed material, are used | on all-white dresses, and we see a include imported cut steel buckles, | evening frock of late, and are pur- | continuance of the molded hipline | butterflies with crystal wings and |chasing one for the first time in and the flared skirt. Sweaters are | Not only the frocks themselves, | cushions and all the paraphernalia of the well-outfitted bather, stress, combination, pajama en- sembl colorings. Footwear continues to stress color, even the classic golf Oxford | and tennis shoe appearing in col- ors, notably the pastels. noon shoes are embroidered in vivid colors and evening shoes take on color. So far, the materials for millinery stress baku, baku soleil, and ballibuntl straw, and there are linen weave straws, as well. Tur- bans of crepe de chine are to be had in colors to match sleeveless tennis frocks. FOOTNOTES Brilliant buckles and sparkling | hecls are important accessories to the footwear mode. The former rhinestone centers, and patterns stones, the former colored. Evening slippers are giving themselves up to all kinds of gracious details, the latest offering' And al- color, having scalloped edges. ways they feature amethyst as old. s in silk or jersey, these are | typical of the trend toward exotic | After- | | for i iday i i 4 | for wariety that comes with the @ limited collection, although vel- eros | months, you may be a bit dis- |p pack hemline is the {worked out in crystals and rhine- | turbed at the change that has | taken place, both in the silhouette satin with silver tinsel | Gay | embroideries, Castilian red brocade ! come devotion to the new trends |for evening frocks that are rather GLAMOROUS FROCKS FOR EVENING models for every purpose--for house parties in the country, deb- | utante affairs, dinner wear, the theater and the after-theater sup- : : iy , _ | per party. And there is scarcely inet: aks them ox a fabric. associated with svening i festivities, and the necessity | 2ttire that will not appear in even HERE is sheer delight in the business of choosing an eve- ning dress, whether it be for the debutante or the matron, colors and fabrics, aided and | vet has passed the hey-day of its popularity for this winter season. Silks and nets and chiffons are smarter. | While there 'are some models | that keep to the straight, all-the- | way-round hemline, with an occa- | stonal down-dropping drape or panel, the up-in-front and down- preferred line. The smart frocks--of moire silk, taffeta, tulle, lace or chiffon, aspect of the |or of two materials in combination, models for the purpose. But it|incline to the molded line above will not take you long to appre- jthe hips and fullness below them. ciate the rare beauty of the con- | It has much of charm and sophis- feetions of "silk, lace, satin and | tication about it. velvet. and with appreciation will! Lace is used in interesting ways opening of the resort season, re- sulted in a sum total of models that was astounding, and pointed the way to greater sophistication and charm. : If you have had mo need for an and the general formal, and it takes other fabrics Evening gown collections include lin combination or as trinuning. A | of width, into a straight silhouette, | 'make possible the straight line! the field go that with the coming of spring we may expect some lovely and individual! materials in model in Paquin blue, posed over! nig group. Many different weaves satin, has the lower edge of the| re presented, including the volles, molded hipline outlined in puffs of | moire and taffeta silks, satin an | matching chiffon. It touches the| co 0 on 4 they are. rayon, any, | floor in back, has a deep V-decol- sik or rottor ' | letage following the same line as Heavy eoatings, knit materials of | the hem, but 1s, otherwise, un. all sorts, fabrics used for silk un- | trimmed. It comes a little below derwear--only' it isn't what it fine knees in front. seems, and even ribbons find rayon | Taffeta, satin or moire make an usable and effective. Incidentally, excellent foundation for sheer lace, |, "0 hoo weave being shown |and tulle is used to edge the lace | . | itself in some of the models, Tulle | in rayon underthings that pre Increasing in Importance cludes the possibility of puns up to this time a real bugaboo. It has been impossible, many times, to get the value from gar- ments because of their tendency to drop stitches. We have always associated luster with rayon materials, and now the manufacturers of these products have developed a gloss-less rayon that has much the appearance of crepe, both the flat variety apd Georgette, It may be had in plain or printed effects, and it Is not difficult to foresee great popularity for these newly originated ma- terials that are cutting into the popularity that has, hitherto, be- longed to silk. | makes entire frocks or is combined | with taffeta, one model using an imported flowered taffeta silk for | mode, and it becomes, therefore, a this purpose. Some of the tulle| question of novelty. Sometimes dresses are carried oat in two | the bodice of the model is beaded, | shades of a single color, one model | the skirt--of chiffon or tulle, left | featuring a huge cape collar that is| to its own devices, which prove to | quite heavily beaded. {be ways of fullness, achieved | Which suggests the beaded |through ruffles, flounces or ex- | gown! 'There is no lessening of | tremely wide circular cuts. | the popularity of the beaded dress, | Severely plain frocks of satin, | of chiffon or Georgette, that is al-| rather difficult to wear, depend odin effective under artificial | upon subtle lines for beauty, and I to be eliminated from the evening lights. In a French model, pat-|there are some gorgeous models terned all over in a fine scrollwork, | made of shimmering meire silk, a modernistic design is effectively [carried out in the most exotic worked out in erystal beads. Width | colorings. Moire and taffeta both | is cleverly inserted at the sides, (are used for the straight lime dress which are accented with panels|{and for the bouffant model, and drop almost to the floor, beaded while the matron likes the lower | also. line, the debutante = clings to Sometimes the designs is wrought | the old-fashioned bodice with the with delicate' traceries of beads, | normal waistline. again with scintillating fjewels.! Among the new Dresses of this sort are too lovely | mas offerings, and, of cou i-Christ- around very smartest evening frocks ate tended holiday festivities, were bouffant frocks of blossom-sprigsed taffeta that held more than a hint of springtime beauty. They were worn by the younger set, and one fancies that many of them were included in the wardrobes that went back to school and college. A smart moire frock features the peplum silhouette. It is extremely smart to stress the affinity of the frock with the wrap, if one ca) work the ward- robe problem out to accomplish this. A brocade wrap can carry in its patterning a hint of several colors that can be used for evening dresses, and the celor chosen for its lining will afford another sug- e, thel gestion. Velvets and brocades are preferred wrap fabrics, and the smartest dels are 1! ious! furred. a a hh rhe ann a mm a TheNewCOAT SILHOUETTES to outer |coat, but there are instances when way. So HEN it comes wraps, we are facing a de-|a flare is better in every cidedly interesting situa- the decision must needs hang in tion, for we have to con-!the balance for a while, and the | sider, not merely the type, the blanket prediction Le made that ' material and the color, but the |there will be both straight and length and the silhouette as well. | flared silhouettes, and coats of all For there is a war on, and it is!three lengths, even four, for the being fought along two battle- | seven-eighths coat is worn. fronts to decidg two issues--shall With the' opposing forces calling coats be straight of line or shall a truce, we may consider details. | they flare? Shall they be three- There are some interesting coat | quarters length, come to the hem-| models shown, both as separate line, or be jackets? garments and as a part of ensem- Perhaps we should eliminate the bles. One is impressed by the ex- problem of the jacket, for it has|quisite tailoring that is a feature | times. topcoat, and details of stitchery, pockets and belt, of bandings and bindings seem to be the season's contribution to general versatility. The neckline is always impor- tant, and a very great many of the newest coats feature the flat. col- larless neckline that permits the wearing of a fur scarf, when need- ed, and fs worp without it a+ other There are many interpreta- tions of the now classie scarf col- lar, which can be worn various ways, and there are novelty collars and the traditional tailored collar, with - revers, that belongs to the | ready been solved, and outer of even the most nonchalant little | wraps are divided into two groups, | the long coat and the jacket. Since jane ensemble is a fundamental, no | matter what the purpose of our Ramah (1) E the i sports mode. THE PICTURES » of the ensemble. The | costume, it becomes imperative | that there be variety in coats, and {it is an assured fact that every woman who can possibly wear one | will have a jacket suit for spring | and summer wear. | If one is to judge by the mew little coats that are offered for Southern wear, then the silhouette will be straight, and coats will be | fairly evenly divided between full ! and three-quarters length models. But one cannot judge fairly by these cc ts, mor so early in the year, for while resort fashions) stress sports toge, we have yet to | consider afternoon attire, and it | will be radically different. For there fis every indication that formality and the feminine simplicity in devious finish. general tendency to slimness. has a short underslip, and an in front and touches the floor terials are worthy of special mention, trimmed, in many instances, with far. (3) One of the sheer wools that are the most up-to-date details are noticed with its surplice line, pleats to one Note the shoulder darts (4) Designers continue to dally model, with more than a suggestion robe is the latest garment to take to itself 8 cost, thus becoming an ensemble. The holidays saw these outfits featured in materials, the pictured model made of a trimmed with bands of plain satin. (2) There's a world of smartness in the line, but they arrive i and ipuls soft, printed silk and new at thet of so with in theme will be present in all of the adds much to its old-fashi models offered for both afternoon and evening wear, and the molded hipline and the low-placed flare have not, as yet, lost their hold on low set flounces are fi d appear (5) When lines begin something they have been am all the way round suggestion of a fichw. Front fullness, s of this popular fancy. And it is just a bit ridiculous to top a flared frock | with a straight line coat, although | it can be done. of course, when the fabrie of the dress permits Soft materials, that fall, in spite ||| and both pocket and collar edge silhe i Rantoul is mode for gay-toned silk or crepe frocks. (8) A model for general daytime wear in the South. Exquisite], tailored. of a fine novelty wool. its one except the belt buckie. The sole trimming cufi« are one are stitched.