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THE DAILY TIMES -- RS -------- AY of LAS 77 CO . MODE of GRACEF LINES here is a Variety in Even ng Mode!s-- New Fabrics Cont OU will truly be difficult to please if you find nothing at- tractive in the newest displays of models for evening wear. Tne formal frock is an all-the- year-round necessity, and it keeps designers busy introducing the novelty necessary .to a successful presentation of appropriate styles at every turn of the season. To the average woman it seems im- possible to keep pace with the con- stant changes in this tyje of ap- parel, Hardly had we assimilated the new things that were introduced with the opera season when the Southern season opened and a| new feeling was apparent, not! merely in materials but In colors| and lines. While few of us, in| comparison to the many, can holi- | day in the South, we are bound 10 feel the effects of any change in any mode whatsoever, and we are always conscious of the fact that the Southern "Now," is the North- ern "Future." Probably the one thing that im- presses us most is the tendency to glorify the skirt of the evening dress and to keep the bodice-- what there is of it--plain. But the | very definite vogue for sunburn, | or sun-tan, has cut the decolletage | extremely low and brought the] arm-hole back as far as possible. Even in the north fashionable women are simulating the tanned skin of the sojourner in the south with her make-up box. { the ribute Smiartness, and, thercfore, inlinkeiy more de- sirable to many. Probab'!y the note in the fabric ment i8 the vo find It everywhere pi nl evening mode is no exception, for there are frocks of printed chiffon or Georgette, even models carried out in printed crepe de chine and, of course, the always lovely printed taffeta. Of the five evening frocks pictured three ard made of printed stuffs----taffeta, chiffon, satin. But These Are Not All There are materials in great variety moires, satins, nets, crepe [Elizabeth and the flat erepes, and cu ivis serye to continue the variety that materiis have begun. Again we are niin enced by the sun-tan mode, which makes the white frock an ultra- smart thing, especially the one of white satin, for. both color and texture are very good with a tanned skin, real or simulated. Soft lines are preferred, and the more intricate those lines, the bet- ter. It is an admitted fact that lines of the newest evening silhouette increase slenderness, even while they feature yardage, for every fabric, including the sup- posedly stiff ones, as satin, tafieta and moire, possesses a supple gual- most important field for n 0= we ie its plain taffetas ity that is conducive to a certain | slinkiness, as it falls. The whole feeling is for softness of line. Velvet is, in a sense, passing and the | whether the tan be; that leads to a charming result, Even the bodice, brief as it is, has a seam and is Irregular of line, and the fullness seems to be ap- plied to that bodice In steps, and the skirt is, therefore, a thing of fulled panels, the hemline tollow- | ing the lower bodice line. 'The| bow suggests the familiar bouftant | line. Only the slender figure could | wear the flowered taffeta model, for its waistline. not content with | even normal placement, is almost | a princesse line. and the sash with | its huge bow accentuates it. The | skirt, with its decided back dip | that forms a sugzestion of a train, | is lined with transparent velvet, | and clever cutting of | the fabric | allows the lower edge of the frock | to be tied in a series of loose knots, | The Sun-Tan Decolletage | The model of printed satin is] notable for two things, its extreme- | ly wide, low, U-shaped decolletage | and the down-in-the-back move- ment. Surely the bodice is as brief a thing as it is possible to conecelve, and permits its wearer to display the hard-earned coat of tan that is so fashionable. The skirt of this 'model seems to -have | | BY BARBARA WINS LOW Did You Know. -- HAT one of the most youthful C of the new spring fashions, seen at the winter resorts, Is | the jacket suit that is worn with a | tuck-in silk gingham blouse? The -- OF HAT would be underthings! | For your costume is as per- fect only as your corset and iingerie, and there is no ex- for foundation garments that | Ccuse | are not absolute perfection. ! are so many models in the essential | corset, and so many materials in both this and other under garments that success is assured. A brief Fashions In A General Way There is more than a tendency to follow the plain-bodice, elab- from the fashion picture, for it is a winter fabric rather than a sum- mer one. But the transparent weaves will not be discarded, for been built on the wearer, a' bit of fullness' here, a ripple there, and | success, orate-skirt idea in all departments of dress. The introduction of elab- oration at a line that is compara- tively low on the skirt is an ac- cepted feature, and following the lines of the figure, with a slightly molded bodice and a tight hipline, is the smartest way to distinction. There is no such a thing as a straight hemline in all of the ap- proved evening models. Drapes, flares, circular cuts, panels, godets, and ripples of the materials that are really jabots-- we might call them cascades, seem o appear suddenly in the most mexpected places and follow the nost unexpected lines. The de- pided dip in the back and the dip at the sides are rivals for first place, the former somewhat more difficult to wear (han the latter, they are extremely picturesque, as well as useful, for evening wraps. In the ensemble model we find velvet combined with printed chit- fon, the orange stressing the orange note in the print which is a gorgeous one with henna and brown tints. Hard-to-Explain Lines In the model that makes use of two tones of a color, the fabric 'taffeta, we have a puzzling process tone of the -cape | pe of white satin, generously beaded. A charming example of the vogue for white frocks is pictured. The bodice reminds us forcibly {| that we are influenced by the princesse silhouette, and it is made The skirt is made of layers of tulle! superimposed, one over the other, | and gains distinction because of | {its length, which avoids the up- {ward trend in front. A rather unusual, but extremely effective jalliance of materials. Highlights of the New Mode OFT and supple woolens that resemble silks, and silks as soft as they can possibly be. The stiffer materials for evening, ' as moire and taffeta, but they must THE PICTURES (1) A rather unusual combination of materials. We are accus- tomed to beaded Georgette and chiffon frocks, but here we have a semi-princesse model with a beaded satin bodice and a skirt made up of layer after layer of tulle that finally achieves vast width. Note the extreme length. (2) Satin in a sprawiy Soral print is the fabric. The decolletage is, obviously, the sun-tan fayorite, and the back treatment of the skirt is decidedly movel. One itsjtates 10 coBsider the resi of an amateur attempt to copy of the modernistic mode. (3) Pn ing an e this del which exp ensemble with new ideas. The frock is fashioned of printed Georgette patterned in henna, brown orange. its lines featuring the low back dip and the shorter front hem. The shade of of the d wrap is made of (ransparent velvet in the same garments of this type become imperative. depending upon line, it is imperative that underthings be removed from bulky as possible. Silks that are supple, dah ation d, and depending upon the height of the shirred portions. The body is also irregular, and a one-sided bouflant effect is arrived at with a buge bow of taffeta ribbon. (8) A trifie old-fashioned in its effect, this frock. But it is the result of the brie bodice that is even shorter than normal. the sash, the bow in-back. and the wide skint. The material of the latter is slashed and tied in loose knots that give a most unusual efiect. There's a velvet facing, too. (7) Pajamas are as important as ever. indoors or out. fn this most unusual modél two materials are used. and slenderness of fine is featured. if you are addicted to this type of garment, then fashion holds many surprises in store for you, as it is guite correct to use them for lounging purposes. | be workable, | Dull-surfaced fabries in prefer- | lence to shiny ones, and prints of | all sorts and kinds. Checks and plaids are making a | vogue of their own, the latter less | important of the two. | Black and. white, parrot green and navy blue, a lot of red and the new color, sun-tan. ; | Brown continues to be popular in its many nuances, and polka- | dotted materials are good. The silhouette continues slim, and the low-placed flare is the! most important thing in it. Uneven hems belong to the eve- ning mode and the formal after-! noon mode that uses soft fabrics. Evening frocks have a very low decolletage and bathing suits fol- low the evening back line. Sleeveless dresses along with the | fow decolletage, are responsible for! the new sun-tan mode. - The ensemble theme is very im- portant, touching every - single thing that goes into the costume. No matter what the costume you the jacket, for it rules the mode. There are scarfs and jabots and berthas and little capes apparent in every sort of a style. Tiers and flounces and godets and circular cuts and draperies and peplums are all favored. Co-ordi every y with | every other and with your costume in line. color, type. $ survey of possibilities will convince even the most skeptical of the truth of the assertion. Your corset is correct in its lines and style only when it has been properly fitted by an expert cor- setiere, The woman who pays three-and-a-half .for her corset shudders at the woman who pays fifteen or twenty, but the former | buys several pairs to the latter's one and is never as well corseted. ish are costly, { more satisfactory and economy. Broche, coutil and silk are corset | materials, and flesh is the most popular color. There is one praob- it is real | jacket is wholly devoid of lining, i is featured in the bright colors. | 'THAT the jacket is again a fea- |ture in an afternoon frock that goes out to dinner and later be- | comes a really formal dance dress" It is of printed chiffon, this frock, | and it has a little matching jacket | that provides the sleeves for in- formality and is smartly lovely. THAT a guper-perfect evening {wrap for resort wear is made of white moire silk? It is one of fashion's contributions to the sun- tan-and-white mode that Is so pop- ular. Sometimes the wrap has & collar of white hare, again the cole lar is shirred, or it may lle flat, THAT the newest pajama for beach wear is nothing more or less than an overall? This ensemble, for it is that, has a matching jacket and is made of linen crash or some tabric like it, or of silk. With it fs worn a hat that resembles a "THE BEG! There | puncher's sombrero. NNINGS THINGS There are orchid'and green corset models also. Th .re three rred ma- terials for underwear, crepe de chine, the rayon weaves and glove | silk. There are others, of course, | but they have nothing of the pop- ularity that is accorded the three mentioned. Glove' silk is sslowly giving way to rayon which is jess expensive and, in its newest form, wears far better than the silk gar- ment... The new non-run rayon garments are certainly splendid for hard wear. For tallored frocks the idea is rayon or glove silk and the gar- ments are untrimmed., For wear with formal things there are gar- Materials, lines and details of fin-| trimmed, but the result is|trimmed. | h ments that are so exquisitely beau- tiful that it seems a shame to cover them, and they are not merely they are gorgeously But the laces and fine hand work are so carefully applied that there is no bulk and the gen- eral appearance is of an elaborated tailored garment. One sees far more flesh-toned underwear than any other color, Jem that never seems to be solved, {and there Is a vogue for lace trim. | for the white corsct is passe, and | mings in the ecru and sun-tan the whit frock, worn over a flesh- shades applied to white, flesh or ! toned corset, is likely to take on al pink things, for these are neutral corset. Never, apparently, ~ What Skill HOPS that specialize in apparel for the woman who is larger, than the type on which fashion | models are built is now being sup- plemented by the expert who will do your choosing for you, selecting the just-right frock, coat and ac-, cessories. And she will consider | vou as am individual, taking due notice of your good points and ac- centing them. and at the same time | concealing whatever bad points you may possess. | A few general rules may be of help, if you wish to do your own | choosing. First of all, of course, | not only in the silhouette, but in| details, as for instance, the V-neck in preference to the round one | And second, large patterned wma- terials must be avoided and shiny surfaced ones, nor must there be anything of trimming that will catch and reflect the light, or at- tract undue attention. | are planning, you must consider the old one of length-giving Hines, | S010TS In Ca thought of elaboration on the skirt. The opposite is true, and there should be plain effects in the skirt and a widening process in the blouse, if hips are broad and shoulders marrow. It is merely a process of making the two prepor- tionate, and one must never forget the fact that the skirt must be as long as possible. Irregular hem- lines are an aid. Black is no longer imperative, for there are so many soft browns, blues. greens, tans and grays that they can be worked into the ward- robe effectively and happily Two the desired effett, and while a black frock is a necessity in ever) smart wardrobe, it is not the main- stay of the large woman, these days. Soft shades, long lines, and lines that are proportionate to the figure, are important. i Pearls are back again. They come in two and three-strand neck- "la new dress and a new hat that! purposes. even for extremely for- | your style come in white, bur pinkish tinge for the area of the | colors and are most effective with does | the soft colorings. it! there is a vogue for knee-length At the moment | can, of course, be a special order, | nightgowns. For TH NEW word has been coined, | color and it seems an appropriate | dogwood blossoms against a rich- one, for what is the time | hyed background: another shows a and white. One frock has that comes between the 8c-| gmail pattern in henna, orange, ceptance of winter fashions aud | - those of spring and summer but | ©44 byes and _Ereens Sains a an interlude? And a sibgle letter | Smoke gray background. ! places it firmly in our minds. There | Then there are the bright-colored | are scores of new models offered | Peasant prints, the small designs | us, many of them appropriate only | borrowed from provincial France, for southern wear, some planned | and red and blue figures show for immediate wear in the north. | against a white background, which and others possible for either] tells us that designers are not yet clime, through with the tri-color com- Probably our main interest is| bination. There is a new vogue centered in frocks, for it is upon for printed chiffon for evening we depend for the freshening proe- | mal afternoon affairs, and there is ess which every wardrobe must|every indication that prints of all { undergo during the midwinter! kinds will be pppular. { months. Whatever our need, the! Frocks in three tomes are con- | dress itself is being influenced by | sidered good, and one method of {a mode that does not really exist | using the shades is seen in a model except in the resorts where for-! that makes the dress of a plain- | tunate folk go to rest and play. hued crepe and trims it with three { Certain things are meeting with shades, ome lighter, one darker | signal success and deserve comsid-! than the dress itself. There is a , eration. | decided preference being shown for { More of us are interested in the | French nude and black, and two- piece dresses use the former for combination often. have {model that will be useful here in the north, and there are some charming innovations that may prove the straws that show which way the fashion wind blows. These straws have to do with color. with material and with lines, the three fundamentals of style, and perhaps { the characteristic that is most wel- i come at the moment is the new use of color and the 'introduction of new printed materials. { We have had prints all winter { long, but not these prints that are | being featured fust now. There is, | apparently, a liking for bright If you are broad-shouldered and ' laces, and are sometimes worn with | colors against a dark background. small through the hips, then keep a choker necklace in color, the|small figures, and a generous use the bodice plain and expend your' pearls colorless or faintly tinted. of black and white. or a bright {the blouse and the latter for the | skirt. Incidentally the omne-piece dress is a favorite. They are offering clever scarf frocks, and the information may be taken two ways. There are {rocks made of printed scarfs. per- haps they should be included in the group of prints, and then there are frocks that feature the scarf |as a detail. When the scarf is a | part of the dress it may fly free. be knotted. or tied in a bow Meny of the very smartest models fea ture the scarf--famous designers sponsoring it. The peplum frock fis being of- fered in several Anteresting wer- F "WINTERLU " WARDROBE sions. The snug hipline ie retained, and there Is, occasionally, a lingerie vest, for lingerie touches are con- sidered wuitra-smart. locidentally, there are berthas, draped, pointed collars, scallops used in new ways. the use of diagonals and bows--old ideas but newly interpreted. and intriguing clusters of fine tucks and fine pleats. Among the frocks that go south there are so very many sleeveless models that we find a sleeved frock with difficulty. They are typical of the new theme in summer fashions. and are to be bad in all sorts of materials. Those of linen are ex- quisite, both in color and detail, for apple-green. forget-me-not blue. maize and orchid and daffodil are typical shades. Hand drawn work and hand embroideries trim them. Voile frocks follow the [linen ones and have the same qualities to recommend them, and there are sleeveless models of striped tub silk. pique, printed fabries and crepe de chine. the latter woaders of tucks. pleats and pipings. [In passing we should say that prac- tically every veless dress has its jacket, or least a jacket. and there is no doing without this gar- ment. for it is to. be a jacket-suit season. New travel coats that go to the very smartest places have new ideas in fabric, cut and color A model in camel's hair has a kit fox collar. while an opossum shawl collar trims a coat of brushed wool. Tweeds iv high colors. many of them with a two or three toned stripe woven into them. are trimmed with natural wolf® Sports and travel coats continue their Uk- ing for fur, even though it is bard« iy & sumamer fabric.