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THE DAILY TIMES The SAY of SASSY And That Means a Hat of Straw. | coming models than those we have HE winter season is on the wane, not only so far as hats are concerned, but in every department of dress. We are tired of the frocks and coats that have given valiant service for many weeks, and seek any excuse at all for new apparel, Our first con- cession to the weary wardrobe is a hat, and where we would have chosen felt a year ago we now choose straw, or at least a com- bination of straw and fabric. Not that felt shows any signs of losing its popularity; for it does not. Just the old theory that novelty is the spice of life, and straw is that novelty after months of winter hat materials, And the search for the new hat will reveal many interesting things that have to do with line and trimming and a general changed aspect that naturally appears during the mid- season months. Spring hats have ways of their own. Certain questions must be de- wided over again with every new mode, and with millinery in mind we 'present those questions. Will hats be large or small or a com- promise between the two? Will the brimless hat continue in favor, or will the hat with a brim take precedence? What of fabrics, and trimmings and crowns, and the ways thereof? And what of colors, both in relation to the costume and to each other in the hat itself? Continuing The Small Hat It we could see ahead into the summer months we would, un- doubtedly, find a very great many large hats, for summer suns bring them out as a matter of course. But we are concerned with spring, not summer, and the weeks that precede the actual spring season. In a general way the'situation is unchanged, so far as size is con- cerned, the small hat the pre- ferred one, and the hat with a medium brim attracting 'some at- tention. . If there js just a bit of a trend toward the hat with a brim, it is not strange. But the woman whose profile makes the close, brimless hat a very smart thing As a is not going to give it up. | spectacular way, and have soften- result the displays are about evenly divided, the brimmed models going to all lengths to achieve the dif- ferentness that is essential to smartness. If a judgment is pos- sible, so early in the season, hats are more becoming. : Perhaps this latter statement needs a little qualification, for rarely have there been more be- enjoyed this season. They have been, to say the least, a bit un- usual, and when not exactly "right" for the wearer, they have also been most trying, It has depended upon the patience in selection, as well as the judgment of the wearer, and there have been both successes and fallures, Factors In The Final Choice The right hat must be found by studying the various models from every angle, Certain rules must be followed, and the round crown or the small crown; the wide brim, or the narrow brim, or the hat with no brim at all must be care- fully considered for the individual interested, And the color, while it must bear a definite relation to the costume color, must be one that is becoming to the wearer, as well, There is every ipdication that color will take precedence over line and color, this coming season. The more vivid tones, popular with the dull-hued fur coat, will be re- placed by the duller, less vivid shades that are effective, in a less ing tendencies, These shades are called, for want of a better name, muted shades, and are used alone, or for purposes of colur contrast. Right at the moment there seems to be a flair for ine hat of straw trimmed with felt. Sometimes there are godets or bits of fulness let into the brim, or sectional pieces let into the crown, or appliques of the felt against the straw. A tiny close hat has a huge flower ap- pliqgued on one side, the petals coming well down over the esr, and the use of two colors as navy and parrot green, brown and brioche, favored. s Trimmings Are Again Favored You need have no apprehension concerning this statement, for ft does not mean the return of the hat that is heavily laden with plumes and bows and the other decorative features of the Victorian 8ge. But it does mean that there is a wee feather, now and then, or a more generous use of some trim- ming fabric, The tendency to trim the close hat on one side, and over the ear, is a special feature, The turban is coming in for a just popularity, and it is smartest when made to one's individual or- der by the skilled fingers of some gifted designer. When thus fash- foned it has distinction, and it is distinction that is everywhere sought, these days, in every article of dress, A turban of belting rib- \ CZRAMLS® bo 77ST Lhe By BARBARA -- WINSLOW = HAT it's awfully smart, at the C moment, to choose your under- the-fur-coat frock from the fabrics known as designer's prints? They come in some startling color combinations, sophisticated designs, and are very, very different, Small patterns on dark backgrounds! THAT there are many new tweeds, and they are smarter than those that have preceded them? One type prevails for sports things, another for the practical all-day costume that is to be found in every smart wardrobe, They tailor beautifully, wear well, and are al- ways chic, THAT "the girl In the gingham gown" is the smart girl at the resorts, this season? She has a suit, perhaps, and at least a gown or two in this material, as well as handkerchief linen, dotted swiss sora, bon--a popular material---has a huge "ear" of the ribbon to give it the long-on-one-side effect that is 80 popular. ' Angora In The Fabric Scheme Some of the smartest of the many new felts are made with cloche lines--the cloche is the leading brimmed type, and em- broidered in leaf effect with an- The brim follows the outline of the leaves, which are applied at the back. Two colors or two shades of a color prove effective in this particular model, as two shades of blue, or two shades of green. Black and white, tan and brown, gray and red are used. «One of the newest lines that is written with the brim of an all felt hat or a straw hat with a felt brim, is the brim turned off the left profile and turned down to sharply silhouette the right pro- fille, a very becoming effect. It is considered ultra smart to wear a pert little feather where the brim turns off the face--truly a "feather in one's cap." Self trimmings con- tinue their record of popularity. TO CO PLETE OUR distinct types of gar- ments obtain in the world of fashion, each a clear-cut style and each with prerogatives all its own. Definite lines divide the one from the other, these lines drawn by color and material, the general silhouette, and the acces- sores which include millinery and footwear, jewelry, handbags and handwear. Each to its own kind is the rule when it comes to as- bli and pleting the en- semble. Novelty wools, the ever-popular tweeds, knit fabrics and silk and wool mixtures are favored for sportswear, and when silk is the .cholce, it has boldness in its printed pattern, even a touch of the modernistic. There are sev~ eral ensemble types in sportswear, s0 that one may choose an outfit with a jacket, or & long coat, even a compromise between the two--a three-quarters or seven-eighths length affair approved. From this type the jacket en- semble sprung, and if, today, we have a jacket-suit vogue, as we undoubtedly do, then we owe it to the sports mode And here we find the idea of the tuck-in shirt- waist featured prominently, sure hams, piques, linens and all the favorite cottons are rallying to the call for individual fabrics. Quaint calico prints are favorites, Into the millinery that one wears with sports attire go the fine felts and novelty wool braids of fashion, made in beret shape or with 8 turn down brim, Fabrics or the tailored leathers make the bags and footwear, the latter Ox- ford type or with a low heel. Gloves are slip-on or one-clasp fashion, of. washable calf or doe skin, and there is a special of jewelry for this ensemble. triangles or scarfs belong. Daytime clothes are divided £ i and inf 1, the just a step removed from clothes. The light-weight ER = ENSEMBLE THE and in this mode, as in the sports, the hemline is regular, and there are suggestions of the tailored type. Feminine touches abound in The felt hat, the one of belting ribbon or novelty braid, or the tai- lored straw hat are correct, and the latter points to spring, reliev- ing the monotony of felt. The soft leathers, as glove and antelope, are handbag choices and handwear is of the tailored type in short or slip-on models. The Oxford and strapped slipper, in reptilian leath- er, patent or kid, are the footwear choices, the heels conservative in we pass on to afternoon and evening things we find them de- cidedly intricate and much more and feather-weight tweed, ferred, crepe de chine or in the solid colors or in allover print, and there HT; *B merous fabric combinations to be found in the ensembles of this type. The silhouette in this type of ensemble is very similar to that of the sports mode, and there is 2 choice in the length of as there fis between the the two-piece model. A ; bi to continue into the summer with 2 change of materials for ging. fe ine and sophisticated. There are more sheer fabrics and silken coats in the former, and *he sil- bouette takes on the uneven hem- Mine that fs most decidedly so, even for formal daytime wear. Solid color tricotines, reps, chiffons, Georgettes and flat crepes, or ma- terials in small prints are gener- ously featured in this type. Nets, chiffons, taffetas, moires, satin and flat crepe are the eve- ming fabrics, and prints are, usual- Varden prints in the taffetas, even in the moires. One notes the tight hipMne and side draperies in after- noon models, and the dipping back, side fulness, the defined waistline, the princesse influence, and in- tricacy of line, in the evening sil- houette. Mention must be made of the jacket that accompanies so many of the afternoon and evening dresses, making the former into the latter by removing the little coat. It should be noted that jewelry throughout the daytime in- clines to choker effects, although there are pendants on slender chains for the woman who finds the choker unbecoming. Longer strands are effective in the eve- ning and there is a flair for rosette jewelry. Handbags grow more ornate as the day advances, and the bag of fine antelope wears a gorgeous catch, and the evening bag glitters with beads or crystals, or is made of a rich material. Short evening wraps abound, and it is worth your notice that the ve:v long eve- ning glove has returncd to favor. Shoes are more elaborate and heels are higher, this being one accessory where color is of the utmost importance and beauty. Footwear planned for immediate wear, although it will be quite as smart when spring comes, is made of snakeskin. Genuine watersnake for instance, can be relied upon to fit into the ensemble that features dark colors, or will be equally cor- ni E no longer worry ahout the ((( Jett of shert hair, for, in spite of predictions to the contrary, it continues Its happy way. Women who have withstood temptation for many seasons are having their first bob, while wom- en who have worn short hair for years are letting their hair grow. It is all a part of the new condi- tion that obtains in the fashion world--we are free to find a be- coming coiffure and then keep to it. / The young girl who has worn short hair from childhood is taking to long hair and enjoying it. The matron, if she has found a com- fortable, becoming hair-cut, is keeping to it. But really long hair, twisted in and out and around the head, does not come into the fash- fon picture, for one thing, at least, short hair has taught us, the head should be outlined, and the face coming way possible. ity im the cut of our locks. print and a coat of wool, or with silk or crevs are i ly very large, especially in chiffon and Georsette., There ara Nelly root with lioht anes thin it out. and both in relation to the sil-| the head and of the face. nite thing. should be framed in the most be-| have learned to keep our hair in splendid condition, and to cut or or let it grow full |uletes the ensemhia wherever we need to change lines. We have come to consider the] hairline in relation to the neckline, houette, as well as the shape of| We are | free, in the matter of a coiffure! | th wage "Check" SaysDame Fashion | LI. of a sudden we find our- | selves In the midst of a fabric vogue that is a decidedly defi- Checks, a classic pat- tern, have come in again, and are seen in so many materials that we | suddenly come to a realization that | we must have at least one ensem- ble that shows checks or be out of the mode. Entire windows are given up to display of the fabrics featuring this pattern and the models made from them. Checked silks, cottons, wools and rayon weaves show every possible | type of a'check--definite or shad-: owy, large or small or middle- For more than ten years we have | sized, printed or woven, as the need | been approaching the modernistic | theme in everything. There was a reaction after the war, and skirts grew shorter, feminine details crept in, and we cut off our hair! If} you (insist that there is a return with every decade to the fashions | fect thing imaginable for sports or of ten years ago, then you are to | travel wear. be disappointed, for we still wear our skirts short, although they are may be, Checked tweeds of Scotch | origin are found in frocks and | suits that are. the ultimate of smartness, and a travel coat of llama cloth adopts them, resulting in a garment that is the most per- One and two-plece- frocks of used for lining pur =T mhy not be at all new, the | mal | that has been slowly taking shape | every possible fabric, checked silk are offered, and jacket | long in places; we are more than! suits of the same material, the odd | ever addicted to feminine details. | combination of fabrics that fashion And we wear our hair short, if delights in exemplified in a jersey we like it. and we seek individual-! blouse worn with this silk suit We Checks are poses, matched in many instances { by the blouse or frock which com- and pique dresses, It is to be a cotton season, apparently, "NOVEL IDEAS -- RULE THE MODE evening functions, they are idea that makes a frock or an approved for everything and in ensemble seem different, but it| many forms. The combining of is an old idea used in a NeW | 5a] materials is another odd way, or applied to something that | idea, and when we see silk and it has never -influenced before, | And in contradiction to the old | cotton the cotton used for the coat vdage that there is nothing new | Of a jacket suit, we feel, indeed, | under the sun, fashion begs to | that it is different, | report that there are several! There is a vogue for checks, and things, and they are but the logical | It applies to materials, and also to growth of the modernistic spirit their use, this pattern found in And they're since the armistice, | applying this vogue to underthings, And one of these things, seeming | and all the necessary garments are 1 direct reflection upon the above- mentioned adage, has to do with thé sun itself, and is called the] sun-tan vogue. It calls for a| When It Rains! tanned complexion, which may be ¥ attained in any one of three ways/ O charming are the new models of raincoats that the possessor --by exposure to the sun itself, byl submitting to a tanning process | of one may well pray for a chine or voile, | under a lamp specially devised for | rainy day. . They are not merely the purpose, or through a clever | useful, they are smart, and with a Beauty parlors are spe- | smartness that would do credit tn make-up. cializing in it, and achieving real any topcoat, in fact, they serve a SUCCESS, | double purpose in many cases. Not Now this sun-tan vogue has! only materials but details make many subsidiaries, and logical out- | this possible, and many women in- growths, The very deep decolle- clude in their wardrobe a coat that tage and the sleeveless dress are will serve two purposes, and serve items, and the bathing frock and | both well. the evening dress had best agree You can match your frock or as to line, if the result is to be| suit to your rainproof top-coat, or effective. Then there are stock-| you can have a neutral color that tngs in a sun-tan shade and gloves will do service with everythine. of velvety soft antelope that meet Black, white, the various shades of and match the tanned arm above | brown, tan and beige are shown, them. Jewelry in copper tones is and there 1s a wide color range in specially devised to carry out this red, blue and green, Then there really new effect, are printed materials, and some of We are becoming accustomed to | the patterns of silk and crepe show seeing everything carried out in stripings or checks or are moired. the modernistic way, even though (In every fundamental there iz a we may not, as yet, like or ap- satisfying choice, prove of it.' (Fashlon experts in- The silhouette of these coats is sist we are not only coming to it, | straight, but in the sports manner, but are sure to like it.) Patterns|and they are, almost without ex- in our fabrics and designs in our | ception, belted. Patch pockéts ap- jewelry are the chief examples, al- | pear on nearly every model, and though the idea is making prog-| cuffs and collars show evidences of ress in household furnishments. | careful tailoring. Some are single, Jackets we have had, but never | others double-breasted, and some so many, used for so many pur-|of the models feature capes, or poses, On the beach, in the smart | cape sleeves. There are set-in and restaurants--worn under the fur| raglan sleeves, and in every detail coat, these jacket suits, in the] there is the same nicety that char- boudoir, on the street, and at for-| acterizes the top-coat, THE PICTURES (1) To finish out the i i A hat of satiny soft felt fabric features the round, rather large crown, and insists upon a brim. Its sole trimming is an abrupt white feather placed low at the side, but its effect is one of undeniable smartness, (2) They're doing odd things with pajamas, right now. This lounging attire combines plain burgundy satin with a jacquard print in burgundy and white, Note the sash, cuffs, pocket and bands of the plain satin on the white, and the monogram, done in the approved modernistic way. (3) To impress us with several important fashion facts, There are as many bobbed heads as ever, but they are a trifle more femini Wide b lets, chok necklaces aid large rings feature synthetic jewels in rarely beautiful settings, many of them modernistic in their type. (4) An unusual combination of color and material. The hat, of linen-textured straw, has a swathed band of soft leather and bows and a half facing of the same. Pointed on one side and rounded on the other, the brim is caught dp in front in an original way, The effect is modernistic, (5) Suddenly there ad a for p brims. This is a forerunner of the sammer season, and is welcome after hs of & i dels, This hat keeps to the yg A d crown, and joins it to the somewhat brim with a banding of felt. An ly smart (6) There is no decrease in its real popularity. The close little bat of the belmet type has many variations and comes in many materials, Spring straws feature it, and this model, made, tly, of bands of straw, is unusual and distinctive. A trying hat to wear. (7) Straw in combination with the classic felt. So lovely is the weave of the straw that it has all the appearance of a silk braid. The felt is used for inserts--onc might call them godets, in the brim, presenting an unusual effect. The brim is the hat in this model. J 2.2 to be had in checked silk, crepe de al | Ww | of que Gal gar she H. the ing pio sha and loo and wh mal sar the The and but the lacl wal ent, will wel idu firs Ha thir teal Mai tall pas ska bor sua 8CO! pre fror def Ker righ cor} wor quo! N men prov whe T, man play and gave min BOO( not brill one of t thre pucl fron get | cage ed I scor 11