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Oshawa Daily Times, 22 Mar 1929, p. 15

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wy LU out 3 bw ip ong -toe xP TE ORNL STACI SAMIR Tro TP PHS . suit, that was worn THE OSHAWA DAILY TIMES, FRIDAY, MARCH 22, 1929 PAGE SEVENTEEN Spring Season Shown in Oshawa Stores "F The glorious days of spring are at hand. Days crammed full of new and interesting things to do... . days of dazzling" sunlight and budding trees --long hikes in the country, golf, rid- ing, motoring and 'tennis. These are the days when the whole world seems alive and these are the days when every woman is thinking of new clothes to wear. And all of us women can thank the lucky stars of fashion that sports- wear. has become so universally adopted. Because even though we cannot all aspire to being the per- féct "type", we know in our heart of hearts that we adore sports clothes apd we know, too, that the designers have created another type of sports clothes, called , spectator apparel, which 1s 'mest becoming, to everyone, Short-Coated Suits Because they are so tremendously important this spring we will begin with the finger-tip sports suit. It is] very closely related to the cardigan so much last spring. But there is 'a newness to ese little : jacket suits--a sort of boyish nonchalance, for this year, it is smart to 'wear a little tie in bril- liant hue peeping out from under a collar that 'looks for all the world like the soft worn: by little boys. The jackets to these smart little suits are short and feature the belero gitest and have rather flared, boxed es. . It makes no difference what ma- terial you would like in one of the jacket suits, for this year fashion shows no preference and even the humble gingham has come out of the kitchen and established for itself a very enviable place in the realm of fashion. Gingham got its start dur- ing the winter season at southern resorts and if the dictators of the mode have their way about it, it will go on its merry way all spring and into the summer, Plaid Ginghams Are New The ginghams that are used with the most success checked and come in a wide range of colors, The frocks are usually sleeveless and the jackets that are worn over them are of linen in a monot that emphasi the basic color of the patterned cotton. The knitted ensembles took our eye. They are such sturdy little af- fairs and we can see that the woman who likes things practical will choose several of these for her spring ward- robe. Blue and white is a particularly smart combination for spring in knit- ted suits, Sulphur color appears in a wool knitted jumper costume with stunning black accents, This little t is completed by a novel scarf fastened at the back of one shoulder, © Interest the Golfer "woman who plays golf will be especially interested in these knitted jacket suits, for they are perfect to wear on the green during the first crisp days of spring. Then if the day be too warm, the jacket may be dis- carded and the frock is still as ap- propriate and chic. are plaided or' Some of the dresses to these jacket suits are in monotones, while others introduce contrast either in the top of the frock or in clever inset band- ings on the collars, cuffs, sleeves and hips. One of the most charming of slate blue wool crepe depended solely upon rows of self cording at the neck and slecves of the jacket for smart- ness. This same cording appeared again at the neck and sleeves of the dress and there was a. wide suede belt at the normal waistline. . One of the newest features of these important little suits for spring is the skirt. One cunning one we saw on our fashion jaunt through the stores had a seamed jumper of yellow an- gora, a narrow navy suede belt and the skirt of wool crepe was seamed after the manner of the jumper, The jacket had a narrow tuxedo collar, About Sport Frocks And now, let us tell you something about the sports frocks the stores are showing for spring. In the first place, we wish to state that color is very important in the new sports frocks. All the pastel shades are to be seen and all the brilliant high shades that are so typical of the new season. Of- all the colors, yellow stands out as the most favored of fashion. So if Jd would be in the swim, choose at ease one yellow costume for your spring wardrobe. One stunning sports frock--a copy of a recent import--had a bright col- ored skirt and a white velvet blouse. Another one had a red skirt and the jumper was embroidered in two scenes, one representing tennis, the other depicting a horseback rider on 'the gallop, . However, there is no more prac- tical frock for general sports wear than the knitted one. The manufac- turers realized. this and this spring are offering us any number of new ideas in this medium, One striking model we noticed as we went fashion hunting through the shops the other day was after a re- cent import, It was black and white and the two colors were arranged in block effect, And there was a match- ing scarf at the neck, Black and White Combines Black and white is always an im- portant sports combination at any time of the year, but for spring it is to be especially smart, Black com- bined with yellow is another nuance of the mode and it seems that yellow is springs favored color. Frocks for tennis are exceedingly smart this spring. They are so sim- ple and yet so utterly becoming, with the fashionable sun tan complexions that are so much in vogue at the present writing. The woman who plays a lot of tennis likes the ease and freedom of the sleeveless frocks of white wide-ribbed pique. These are smartest when they are made double breasted and trimmed with huge pearl buttons. Other tennis frocks are of washable shantung and, as a rule, they are most simply tail- ored, although we saw several clever ones that introduced fullness by the use of circular pleated godets, which, by the way, are a new note in both frock and coat fashions other than those of the sports variety, ' Long coated ensembles are decid- edly the thing to wear for spectator sports, The stores are showing a most interesting collection 'of ensem- bles of sheer woolens, with both the dress and the coat in the same fab- ric, which others are composed of a tweed or similar woolen material worn over a flat crepe frock in the same color as the coat. Some of the most important fabrics for the en- sembles of the new spring season are wool crepe, wool georgette and, wool chiffon, as well as novelty woolens mn 'basket weave and coarse loose weaves, Raveled Edges 'as Trimming Practically the only trimming on many of the coats oi these emsem- bles are the raveled cdges that ap- pear on scarfs or to outline collarless necks and the fringe is again used on the sleeves, jumper and skirt hem. Several of these outfits we saw in the sports departments topped a wool dress, with a figured two-tone coat or vice versa, Tweed Always Good You can not go wrong if you se-y lect your spring ensemble from any number of important tweed affairs, They are so comfortable and so thoroughly appropriate for town and county wear. Then, too, they are es- pecially attractive this year with coats of pos | shades. These coats use a sclvage or narrow border design for trimming and this is used again to outline collar, cuffs, pockets and belts, | We think you would be wise to select tweed ensembles that have one of the one or two-piece silk crepe frocks as their accompaniment rather than a tweed frock, for comfort when you must be within doors and the coat is removed. These little frocks were noticed often without sleeves, which is quite an important fashion feature for daytime frocks this spring, Color plays a very important role in the ensemble vogue for spring. Especially is this true in the realm of sports. Bright colors with the slight- est dusty tinge were very apparent. Such tones as soft greens, reds, rose, yellow, blue in all its glorious shades and some violets and oranges. Of course, spring would not be spring without the beige or grey outfit, but the stylists predict that 'these will be outdistanced in the race for fashion's favor by the brighter tones. Hats Match Costumes The sports hats almost invariably match the outfit and we noticed a decided surplus of small felts with irregular brims. Brimless shapes are not so important in the sports scheme of things as are those with some sort of brim. Slippers, too, match the costume. The majority of those the shops are showing for spring sports wear are of dyed reptile skin, although we must confess we did see some dyed suede and kid. HOSIERY SHADES WATCH COMPLEXION Natural Colors to Go With the Sunburned Girl Coming Spring, new monarch of fashion, presents her hosiery colors with special consideration for complex- fons. # Now women must choose their hosiery to match their com- plexions, be they blonde, medium or brunette. The colors which in- terpret this smart and new hosiery mode run from the varying natuai solors of each type to the deeper shades that complexions take on when sunburned. Champagne is recommended for olonde or fair women, as it matches their natural colorings. And to take care of these types when they bave acquired a hard earned sun- tan, Is Fairtan, a good daytime color. For evening, Circe is very fitting, Rachelle, a yeliow veige--or Sou- dan, a warm beige--are suggested for the woman of medium complea- fon. who is' still unscathed by the rays of 2 hot sun. But when the skin begins to acquire a darker tone, Blush-tan, a match for sun- tan fills the bill admirably. For evening, Cymbeline may be worn with becomingness. : For the brunette, Ormond, =» softened, tan tone is a good match- ing shade, while Coronado, a mauve tinted tan, lends a little warmth to the natural coloring. To match the brumette's rich sun-tan, Pandora is recommended. And for évening this type will find Casino-very al- luring. Four very smart sun-tan tones that spring has also indorsed ate Alamo Tan, a coppery yellow tau; Sonora, a softened golden sunburn tone; Pocahontas, a coppery red- brown and Ramona, a daring sun- tan color to be used by women of brilliant complexions, On the boulevards of Paris, on *=~ oyvenues of New York, smart wearing the sheerest of +... must look twice to be .od that hose is really being rn. Hosiery heels have been re duced in size, the majority meas- ~'ng under three inches wide. A h heel whi'h is very popular ; Lit oc and one-half ini.t. ide and is higher than the ordinary. Spring Hats Harmonizing With Smartest Costumes The principal hat problem for spring and summer is the careful selection of the model which is to ac- company the dress or coat, An im- portant change in the chapeau func- tion must be noted. Hats were once chosen solely with a view of enhanc- ing the facial features. Many elabor- ate rules were laid down as to what sort of -hat should be worn by the owner of a retrousse nose and what color should be effected by one whose eyes were brown or green, or perchancs blue. Today, the face has een selegated to a very minor role in the selection of a hat. Primarily, it is important that the hat and cos- tume match--in color and line and principally in general effect. A combination which is smart at this moment is a navy blue Georgette crepe toque piped with faille in con- junction with an afternoon dress| of dark blue crepe milla, The liason of a brimmed model in green jersey crin trimmed with a lighter green velvet worn with one of the new girl- ish frocks in a harmonizing tone, is new, . Felt With Tweeds Paris has created the vogue for tweeds and they are offering smart hats developed in a printed felt which perfectly imitates the fabric of the Iwsed Sosvume, The cutstonding char- stic of is type of hat is the fact that above all A must be small. ROUND NECKS With the advent of lingerie touches, the round neck is favored by many frocks, Little haua touches can run out from it so nicely and it has a charmingly feminine look to it that suits the feeling of clothes of the new mode. New Bathing Bag A large bag which will be most convenient upon the bathing beach is covered with jersey in a series of small stripes in cream, tan, brown, etc. A bag of this sort will look ex- tremely well with the wool bathing suit, 2 5 -1 Cant Hing on > 1 ice " Dan on > eT / olher~ DAY HOURS ARE DEMANDING THE NEW ENSEMBLES Centres for All Occasions The slogan this season for street wear is ensemble expressed in suits of every imaginable style from the strictly tailored type to the "dress- maker" suit. They are going to take a prominent part in the scheme of things as far as fashion goes, and promise to be of supreme value both for street wear and also in connection with sports, Now, when we say suits the term as applied to this season's trend cov- érs a wide field both as to material and referring to color and color com- binations. Choosing at random let me mention just a few of the materials that are shown in some of the newer ensemble costumes, but one must bear in 'mind that these are only a very small percentage of the number): fabrics offered for the building of suits for every hour of the day. - Materials Seen : Printed silks, flat crepe, satin French striped flannel, taffeta, tweed, silk moire and fancy cloths of every variety imaginable are seen, The next step is in color combin- ations. The strictly tailored suit cov- ert cloth with a slightly fitted-in, single-breasted jacket and a straight skirt opened or pleated in front is shown in grey or beige, navy, or black English cloths, worn over a shirt-waist ' use of special washable plain or figured silk, or of linen in white, flesh pink, blue, or straw yel- low. A fine wool jacket suit in black with a white satin jumper blouse is also stressed. Color contrast is one of the newest features, and much yellow is used, from the pure tones graduating to the nasturtium range. Patou stresses tans, and the three shades he favors are light, dark and eccentric, and this combination of utilizing three tones is carried out most successfully. As well as combining colors, it is quite au fait to combine fabrics, the result being the last word in relation to chic, Black is good this season, also white. Tuck-in blouses have returned to favor after a more or less disturbed life during the past few ycars, and the blouse and skirt rather than .the dress are combined in ensemble suits of the moment. The unmatched en- semble is very chic; that is a jacket and skirt of contrasting material. More fanciful suits for afternoon wear are often made of French mixed cloths, Some of these fabrics, in pas- tel colorings, are besin altered with crushed artificial silk flakes and are made into costumes with belted hip- length coats and skirts, and pleats or circular inserts at the hem. Colored friska, with the white cotton surface threads scraped over in a frothy ef- fect forms the basis for other suits, trimmed with the same friska woven to form openwork quadrangle or loz- enge designs. likewise with some checked or plaid cloth on new spring ensembles, A number of short sack bolero coats placed over the fitted hip portion of a pleated or flared skirt and of bol- eros held into a hip band are an- other fcranute from the hard and fast rule in spring costumes, CHANGED AND NOVEL HODES Jean Patou Seeks Simplicity and Some New Colors ~ To realize the change in fashions since last year, we must analyze both daytime and evening clothes, says Jean Patou. Compare the silhouettes of the day and evening dresses--you will see that the line of demarcation now is accentuated, The dresses to be worn during the day have gained little in length. Those to be worn at night reach practically to the ground, almost entirely con- cealing the wearer's legs as far down as the ankle. Skirts are still short where my sports clothes are concerned. Thue sweater, which seemed to have ac- quired an almost static position in this type of ensemble, plays a sec- ondary rolet his season. Vulgar- ization is the cause of its banish- ment, Washable Sports Suits It was necessary, however, to seek a new material in order to face the default of the sweater. I finally hit upon that fine wash- able woolen fabric which .is used in England for men's shirtings and pajamas. There are one or two sports suits made up in this new material. It seems to me that these suits correspond to a new formula besides possessing that ad- ditional advantage over the sweat- er--the possibility of being laun- dered. " I have used wool jersey in a small number of dresses. In every instance the material is plain and of a heavy quality, bearing the ap- pearance of a good woven wool fabric, English cloths still figure large- ly in my one-piece tailored frocks and suits, It is difficult to compare the technique of the latest afternoon dresses with those of last year. At that time I drew your attention to the over throw of the traditions of preceding years. This year I bring to your notice a very marked evo- lution in the form of a decidedly dressier silhouette, one replete with all the old-time traditions of Haute Couture, The reappearance of the "dressy" tailored suit strikes a new note but Plain cloth is mixed '] these are more fanciful in style than ever before. I have also made the discovery of a new material for evening dresses. This is a tulle so prepared as to permit of almost tailored evening gowns. It is soft and de- void of the harshness of ordinary tulle. Four colors dominate in my col- lection. As a matter of fact there are only two, as three df them are but 'graded shades of one color. Nasturtium red is the new color, which I have called "Patou's Light --Medium and Eccentric Capu- eine." This is a tint we had not seen for a long time. Black is the other color. Makes Use of Fur Although my present collection is a summer one, I have made quite an extensive use of fur on evening cloaks and on some beach coats. For day wear there is fox dyed "Patou's light capucine," and lynx. The very latest newcomer is black monkey fur. My spring collection will, I hope, prove even more feminine than its predecessor. There is ample evi- dence of this in the cut and use of trimmings in afternoon gowns, tai- lored suits, and dresses. For evening wear, on the con. trary, -a rather severe, tailored ef- fect is apparent, Also a constant research for absolute simplicity. In conclusion I would say that to no~cnss good teste but to risk nothe ing is not a difficult proposition, In my opinion, so far as a lux- uriows industry like ours is con- cerned, the sole aim should be to combine daring without disrespect for any of the laws of harmony and measure, Magnificence for Weddings Is Watchword This Season Will weddings increase? Is Dan Cupid busy now sharpening his ar- rows and tightening the strings of his bow, smiling in anticipation of the record number of conquests he is go- ing*to achieve? With an affair as serious as this we certainly had to look into the matter carefully, and, finding all the omens auspicious, ven- ture to predict that both Cupid and the men who compile the marriage statistics will have to take their coats off and buckle down to it this spring! It was the astrologer at the Court of Fashion who first reported on the good omens and these are his discov eries which we pass on to you, He declares that not for many a long year have the styles, materials, an colors been more suitable to the glorious array of the wedding. And to this the auspicious nature of the time of the year--what could be more lovely than a spring bride, who has all the dancing sunshine of April or May to give her Godspeed and prom- ise of future happiness.--And, well, watch the results, But to examine the fashion end of it more closely, the suitability of modern styles is beyond dispute. In this advanced age, what bride will lay away her wedding dress in the cedar chest, sprinkled over with lav- ender, to be taken out only on rare occasions and to be shown as a relic of a bygone age to the children or the grandchildren? No, her wedding, dress now must be no ordinary gown, it must have distinction and perfec- tion, but it must also be one which she can wear afterwards. It is treas- ured not in the cedar chest but as her favorite evening dress for the coming season, The wedding dress should always have a regal touch about it, and an air of dignity. How can one better interpret this than in the formal lines of modern styles? The princess ef- fect, with its long, flowing lines, is perfect, and the wedding dress, to be smart, must be long at the back or sides. The long, dipping back is the best, for it ensures that there shall be no ugly line where the hem of the dress shows up against the background of the veil, As for the veil and the train, never will brides become so "modern" as to abandon these lovely parts of the wedding dress! Years and years ag centuries and ages even, girls were led to the altar with the veil falling over their shoulders. Always it lends an air of gracefulness to the feminine figure and in its soft folds is a feel- ing of elusive mystery. But though the veil and train re- main, this is the season in which to record many changes in style. The old-fashioned lined affair for a train, heavily hanging from the shoulders, is gone, we hope forever, It is far smarter these days that the tran should be part of the dress, sweeping down from a cleverly cut waist-line in a host of different ways. A word of warning about trains, too. So many girls protest how they are not for them, and cast longing eyes au their more fortunate friends who, they say, can wear them. Every girl can wear a train, provided she +A her type, and advice on the funds- mental points is simple--a tall and slim figure can wear almost any train, the shorter one must avoid that which is wide and short, and affect the long and narrow, to avoid any ap- pearance of making the figure stocky. Veils are more simple than ever be fore, and although the nun, Russian and turban types are still worn, the smartest is the Madonna, perfectly simple, with a small omy across the 'head or a cluster of flowers .at the sides. Lace or hand-embroidered tulle are most lovely, and cut on gen- erous lines the veil is Sometimes al- lowed to sweep downwards into a train, « New Materials For the dress itself the newest ma- terial is satin mousseline, and for this time of the year light-weight, satin, chiffon and crepe Elizabeth are gracious in appearance and yet sume mery., For the bride that is all dain- tiness, the epitome of feminine charm, lace always enhances her love- liness. Unusual materials have been observed recently at New York wed- dings, and one was especially gor geous with the bride in pink transe parent velvet and the bridesmaids in mauve moire, -- Fans In Fabric . Chanel continues to be interested in the evening fan, and instead of fash- joning them of many and various ma- terials and media in a color to blend or contrast with the gown, the new- est fans for the spring and summer will be of the same sheer fabric as the evening frock--Ilace, tulle or chif- fon, Fashions for Spring A have been greatly reduced and will go quickly. $12 No matter what i type of coat you are interested in. you Il will find it here in complete assort- ments. Specially priced at. 95 Of Fur Scarfs Now on Display Brown, Gray, Red $1 50 New Shipment Foxes, all guaranteed. OSHAWA SIMCOE St. S. group. See them on Display at This Store! Georgettes, satins, flat crepes, and printed and plain chiffons in gorge ous new spring colors, oe EE = HE four delightful Frocks sketched are typical of the beautiful models included in this Phone 1173 NEW STYLES Large Displays $1.95 Millinery ------ mm.

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