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Ee a -- J When Wo e-- ol isthe ['abric BY BARBARA WINSLOW The FITIRL of [ALL TTOY Did You Know ~ HAT blue fox is not blue at all, but a sort of mauve-brown that is extremely flattering to the wearer? Paris likes this fox guite as well as the classic silver fox, and when it is a perfect skin noth- ing could be lovelier than its fine, soft fur and most unusual color, THAT hats of a feather are the smartest things in the millinery mode? Instead of the familiar rib- bon cocarde, milliners are using flat feather fancies, a quill of ostrich, a bit of coque, to accent a line that pleases them. On hats of either felt or straw, these feathers. THAT dinner fashions for the spring season are not only smart, but graceful and charming? They are using colorful laces, flowered chiffons, tulle and the popular flat crepes, nothing smarter than black chiffon. They are soft and flowing, and sometimes they reach to the floor. . THAT there is a new blue te take the place of King's blue and the slate-gray blue that have had their day? It is the color you catch in blue-bells, nodding in the breeze, and has a subtle softness that.is not without gayety, yet is extremely flattering and adaptable. THAT the sunburn note is hav- ing its effect on the costume jewelry that supple ts our st ? Pear]s in sun-tan shades and metal jewelry made of copper are evi- dences of this, while a direct con- trast is found in the returm of coral, especially branch-coral, to the mode. . THAT gloves for the tea hour are now indispensible, and the newest, withal the simplest, have three small crystal buttons, to be buttoned through button holes piped with kid? They are cut to accentuate the slender wrist, and come in the favorite tones--fawn, ivory and white. " Light Weight Textures and Gayety Are _ Characteristic -- Both Loose and Close Weaves Are Featured. HERE was a time when both cotton and wool were, to be perfectly frank, in the dis-} card, and we were content only with silk, that is, as a frock material. But the fashion cycle runs its round, and we have cotton a featured fabric, and new wools of surpassing beauty, both of the utmost importance in the new mode. And in a brief survey of the latter, we find that they are singularly appropriate to this spe- cial season. In general we speak of tweeds and flannels and jerseys, for sports, and for other uses kashmir, the basket weaves, broadcloth, kasha cloth and the knit materials. They are, all of them, very light of weight, and make up successfully into the most intricate models. No doubt the change in texture and weight had much to do with the return of this fabric greup, for old time weaves could not possibly have a place in the mode of today. This is to be a coat and jacket season, and while the wools are not imperative, they are most ac- ceptable; for they have a shadow of the warmth that the coat of silk or cotton does not possess. Practically every frock has Its jacket, and with the dressmaker suit and the jacket suit, and the ensemble costume in general, we are grateful for every type of ma- terial that will make possible the variety that fashion demands, The Between-Season Frock During the period of the year when it is yet spring, but inclined, occasionally, to be perverse and re- mind us of winter, there are many days when a street frock of light weight wool is a very comfortable thing to possess. There may be a coat to match it, or one that will harmonize with it--any other would be out of the question--but it will be guite correct by itself and may have as an accessory a scarf of fur--there will be one in the ward- robe. Color is cleverly introduced into many of the new wools, and odd effects are produced by its use. But there is an unprecedented de- mand for black, so that fabrics 'that were not, hitherto, to be had in this somber hue, are now fea- tured in it. There are black covert cloths, even black tweeds, and all of the usual fabrics come in black. 'White is combined with it, and there are some lovely textures in the necessary white wools. A brief survey of the wardrobe may result in the conviction that wool fabrics are very much pres- ent, for no daytime activity ex- cludes them, beginning with the sports outfit and ending with the formal afternoon occasion. And the texture and the color and the weight will be suitable to its pur- pose, whether it be golf, travel, town wear, or the coat wrap that covers the dainty afternoon dress that we see at Casino, Country Club or the smart restaurant. Concerning The Black Coat It is safe to say that more ward- robes will contain a black coat than one of any other color. And in many instances that coat will be a collarless affair, as contrasted with - the imperative lavishly. furred garment of last summer. A single instance of the versatility of a wardrobe assembled with a black coat as a background may prove the value of this neutral of neu- ftrals, in this case a coat wrap of nather formal tendencies. Black broadcloth is the material, close inspection could prove it wool andinot silk. A full-length, straight. line little coat, collarless and un- lined, with only a suggestion of a fit about it, it was bound all the way -around with grosgrain ribbon, and tied in front with the same. Not too dressy for town wear, but dressy enough for afternoon wear, the model was all-purpose. Realfzing thé fashion importance of chartreuse, and knowing it to be possible for her, the owner of the coat had one smart Canton crepe frock with a blouse of this odd colo®, the frock itself black. A chiffon dress, with sprawly pat- tern, had. a. black bockground with beige and king's blue, and two shades of green, one of them the chartreuse, With this coat she planned sleeweless frocks in sum- mer colors, any color perfect against its neutral hue. For The Dressmaker Suit For this newest interpretation of the tailleur, wthich is, really, just an affair of softer lines, but the same meticulous workmanship, there is nothing smarter than tweed, cheviot, homespun, or one of the light weight woolens that we know by trade names. For the spring season is, pre-eminently, a sult season, and there will be days, all' through: the summer months, when such a suit-will prove a solu- tion of what to wear. Special mention must be made of the jersey eaves; planned for dress purposes. They are no longer avoided for fear they will stretch, but chosen for their wear- ability, their effective colorings, and their general suitability. There are some beautiful greens--it is considered smart to have an en- semble in two shades, a deeper tone for the jacket, or, if you would be different, forthe blouse. Yellow and blue and violet are featured. Black Is Used With .Color To return, as we inevitably must, to black, we have the flair for black with color, a result, perhaps, of the contrast theme, much better liked than subtlety, at the moment. The fashion of the tri-color, although it no longer means red, white and blye, is responsible for black with red and white, and this theme is carried out in other combinations. The dark frock and light-hued cdat is another folble of the immediate mode. An extremely smart outfit, seen along a famous fashion avenue, was made up of pleated skirt of flat crepe, color black, a slip-over blouse of yellowish-green hue, 'ap- pliqued with a wide-winged bird of black' and a deeper green crepe, and a jacket of black transparent velvet. The abruptness of the color contrast was most effective, kept within bounds by the predominance of black. The hat was a close lite se affair of black handkerchief elt. ¢ The very smartest and surely the most luxurious bag imaginable, is made of fine seed pearls with color- ful Beauvais embroidery. It is planned for wear with afternoon and evening gowns of very great a'weave so soft and light of weight, | and with such a sheen that only|' NCREASINGLY important in the make-up of the ensemble, shoes grow more interesting with the turn of every season. Plan- ning our spring and summer ward- robes, we are frankly curious con- cerning types, lines, materials and colors, and we study the displays with an attention worthy of the in- fluence they exert on the completed costume. And there is news, a very great deal of. it, concerning every element that goes into our foot- wear. First of all, there seems to be an increasing tendéncy to assure the comfort of the wearer. Heels for daytime wear are lower, vamps are shorter, details are planned with a thought of ease. There are very long, narrow vamps for the unusual foot that demands them, but the medium cut vamp is the favorite, with 'a rounded toe. There are, however, round-toed, French vamp shoes, popular with the younger set, and required by many feet. Day-time shoes are featuring medium | Cuban or spike heels, of leather, and leaving the higher heels to evening slippers. Even formal afternoon footwear, featur- ing the most beautiful. materials, favors the lower heel, and this is, indeed, a real step forward, in personal comfort. With this change in the height of heels and the mod- eration of the vamp of the shoe, Foes a strict attention to workman. formality, and it is exquisite agains a frame inlaid with nacre. ship that is another factor that Sm ma ---- ATI 5 AT THE FEET OF FASHION contributes to comforts. 'When it comes to types, there is little to say, for changes are few. We no longer consider even the possibility of making a pair of shoes do duty with two types of costume, and we respect the lines that divide sports from town, for- mal from informal, afternoon from evening. The contrast is made definite, by heels, materials, colors and trimmings, even by the kind of a shoe--Oxford, sandal, pump, slipper, that is chosen, The pump is a classic, so, too, is the Oxford in its modernized form, and the strapped shoe. Black, brown, gray, the sunburned tones and white are the accepted day- time colors, and they will continue the favorites throughout the sum- mer season, although there are a very great many blues, greens, reds, even violets, The trouble with a colored shoe is its real individ- uality, usually a desirable char- acteristic, but not, always, in shoes. There are so many greens and blues and reds and violets on the color card, that it is practically impossible to find a shoe that will be correct and harmonious with more than one or possibly two, of the shades in that color range. So colored shoes become, at once, an expensive proposition. Daytime shoes in certain materials, designed for 'garden" wear, come in -the pastel tones, eggshell and the many nuancas of the beige range, { These latter types come in kid- skin, the reptilian leathers, linen and other fabrics, and since the sports mode is as fond as ever of strong shades, there are shoes to meet this need, The combination of two materials is favored for aft- ernoon shoes and for those de- signed for street wear, Snakeskin with plain leather all patent leather shoes, and those all of a reptilian leather are noted, along with glazed and dull materials used to- gether, Shoes of white linen, sandal- wise, are approved for sports wear, | and they are, oftentimes, piped with the color of the 'gown they complement, and, perhaps, tied with a grosgrain ribbon to match the leather of the piping. They are combining buckskin and smooth leather for sports wear, also linen and kidskin, and if you love different footwear, there are Oxfords of colored crepe de chine, planned to match one's gloves. Evening brings out eolored foot- wear, which is, for the most part, made of erepe de chine. White pumps or sandals are colored to match the frock, or to match the accessories, whichever the costume calls for. Satin is another favorite material and is treated the same way, and there are, of course, the usual slippers of cloth-of.silver, or cloth-of-gold,' or brocade. But crepe de chine is the favored fabric hensnisa nf ite adantshility, * | Featuring Cotton - Fabrics | ALM BEACH set the seal of its P approval on the ensemble, then proceeded to specify, and stress the cotton ensemble. Interpreta- tions of this major theme are so versatile that the new and lovely stuffs were bound to be brought into its make-up, and our northern spring and summer will see some delightful uses of this old-time, but newly discovered fabric. And the jacket costume will be a much lovelier thing for those uses. Cottons are being offered in pat- terns and weaves that have been styled to meet the demand for jacket suits and tuck-in blouses, and we shall see piques and linens, both printed and plain, broad- cloths, printed calicoes, eponges, ginghams and a world of delightful sheer weaves, combined with each other for the purpose of giving us fashion variety. You can have for your delight a jacket suit of gingham, and it may be checked, or plaided or any de- sign you like. Or you may choose a jacket suit of printed eponge in some modern design. And with both you will wear, preferably, a blouse of the tuck-in type, and it will be a soft, sheer cotton, the idea being kin to the jacket suit of wool that has for a complement a blouse of soft silk or of crepe--it must be soft to tuck in. There are sure to be scores and scores of cotton frocks, sleeveless little models that are smart beyond words. With these frocks you will wear a jacket--plain with print, print with plain, any way you like, and little jackets of velveteen will be approved with the frock of printed cotton or linen. Then there is a lovely new fabric, velveteen pique, that is being used for after- noon models, and they have much of formality. But all of the coats of cotton will not be jacket type. There will be long coats--of pique or ging- ham, for instance, and there will be three - quarters and seven- eighths length coats. One day we wore coats of chintz and cretonne, but today we are going back even farther and choosing calico for our jackets and coats--petticoat-print- ed calicoes, very droll, but charm- ing. Best of all, this cotton vogue is suitable to its season. material, new. The sleeves are unusual. buttons help. white, great importance, and the shoulder line. (4) Wool crepe is here combined with white flannel. itself is a soft powder blue shade, very eflective when used with The favorite sash end effect is featured on the blouse and the skirt is knife pleated. The draped collar is a detail of m= IDEAS IN __ An s--------k L HE modiste who fashions our frocks is no longer content with straight little garments of crepe or Georgette, for the basis of the costume must be per- fect, if the costume itself is to be effective. So--beginning with the corset, she insists that there be the molded line, even in chemise, or whatever garment fis the choice. First, before anything else, the corset must be individual- ly fitted and adapted. If you have received the impres- sion that we are returning, grad- ually, to the smaller waistline, that is, the pulled-in waist, then you have been misinformed. the natural curve is being em- phasized by the new foundation garments that are meant to follow the line of the figure, all. The correct corset supports, molds and makes its wearer more generally comfortable. simply does not exist. There is no desire on the part of the corsetiere to change the po- sition of the body. flesh is carefully considered and taken care of, although it is ever a problem, for, not being natural, it does not belong anywhere at all. Many women find that the founda- tion garment is practically all the underwear necessary, although panties, or scanties of some sort are worn with the corset, Lingerie is, always, brief, Lines may, first of all, be con- sidered, when it comes to the gar- ments offered. They 'take due no- tice of the waistline, as they have not done heretofore. Perhaps they do not actually fit the figure, but they define the natural waistline, oftentimes with a strip of insertion through which a ribbon is rum, and this ribbon may be tied in front. This characteristic is noted in all of the finest pieces of lingerie. With so much depending upon line, it is only natural that the favored materials should be sheer, as Georgette, triple voile, fine crepes and ninon. The use of these fabrics makes elaboration possible, and there seems to be a decided majority in favor of trimming. For sports and daytime lingerie the light weight satins are used, and while it is natural to expect severe- ly tailored things, colors are beau- tiful and lace'is a real factor, It is interesting to note that the combination garment is again being shown in the smart shops. For a long time the shirt and pantie sets have been the favorites of fashion, and at the moment many wear just the bandeau and pantie sets, but for some reason or other the combination has been THE PICTURES (1) The coat dress finds wool a splendid choice. Flannel is featured, and one is impressed by the very definite waistline, which is normal. A handkerchief rever of white flat crepe is stenciled in blue, very lovely against the pigeon blue of the (2) The material -is very fine black rep with crepe. The age-old combination of black and white is featured, and it is smartly The crepe is used for the vestee and the rather unusual Jabot draperies, both of which have the appearance of revers. (3) It argues well for a fabric when it pleats. For supple tex- tures are imperative if we are to follow the lines laid down by fashion. Note the scalloped hemline of the finely pleated skirt, and the contrast effected by the blouse of fine wool. Belt and The dress (5) Yellow is prominently placed on the color card. The fabric of the coat, a novelty basket weave, is white, but the scarf, an important feature of the model, is lemon yellow. medium of decoration, and a point of great interest is the sleeve Tucking is the (8) A tailored ensemble of true smartness of line. It is a basket weave woolen in a rich yellow shade, and the model follows the new rule of feminine details against a meticulously tailored background. The inserts incline to the modernistic in design the brief Perhaps but that isy Stiffness Superfluous and the bat follows suit. he -- INGERIE revived. Only the slimmest of straps are used over the shoulders, and evening lingerie is cut extreme- ly low in back the decolletage reaching to the waistline. Triple voile comes in flowered patterns that use all the lovely garden colors. Georgettes in peach, flesh and eggshell are featured, and the satins go in for eggshell, maize, robin"s egg blue, peach, nile grees and chartreuse. Alencon lace, Margot and binche are the choice for day and sports wear, and, val- enciepnes and alencon are used on ninon, Georgette and .the triple volles. One note of interest has to do with the color of the laces. The beige nuances are the choice for the delicate stuffs that trim lingerie, even when it is white, and planned for the bridal trousseau. Belge, sun tan, toast, all"the various shades ars much in de- mand, and a cléar white lace is never seen. Lace bandings and motifs are used, and the result is garments of exquisite sheerness, offset by the beauty of real laces, the idea of contrast further earried out in the contrast of lace and material, More of the garments are lase- trimmed than adorned in any other way. Tucking and pleating and scallops are found, and there is fondness evinced for pipings of the material, done in a deeper shade than the garment itself. French knots are also used, and another way of achieving differentness is the use of plain with flowered fabrics, part of.the garment of the one and the rest of the other, or one used as a trimming om the other, N ewest Hosiery ITH the new season, new hosiery fashions, and they pertain to color, texture and decoration, It has been some years, now, since we gave up the wearing of black stockings with black shoes and brown stockings with brown shoes, and the vogue for light-hued hosiery seems as popular as ever. But a new element has entered into the situation, and with the wide range of colors it becomes neces- sary.to have a definite knowledge of neutrals. Black and white are still pos- sibllities, although we see the lat- ter only with white shoes, and the former but rarely. It is brought to the fore occasionally, a revival plementing the black frock, but it is too somber, and gunmetal is the better choice, even with mourning, for it gives the effect of sheer black. Black net stockings are seem, oo- cagionally, with daytime or with afternoon costumes. Probably the smartest neutral, at the moment, is sun-tan, the logical result of the vogue for a tanned skin. Hoslery In some one of the shades of this color, for ft is a color, combines with practically everything except gray, and fs used effectively with gloves in the same shade, or to match the complexion of the wearer. They are even wearing it in the evening, but there are other hosiery possibilities more subtle for this purpose. s The tones of pink seem to be = preferable in mi instances, al- though one does see sun-tan, even with silver slippers. Other neutrals are the beige tones, certain grays and the grege hues, which combine 8ray and beige. With certain greens the grege or gray shades are best, as, for instance, the popu-. lar chartreuse, which makes up for its odd beauty with a puszsling characteristic--only a few color combine well with it. : The newest golf jacket is made of chamois, either checked or plain. It is as soft and supple as silk, but wears much better, and is unlined. Green and white, beige and brown, blue or black and white are the colors in the checked garments, worn with white. £5 4 started with the purpose of com- | i 4 ao : ]