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THE OSHAWA DAILY TIMES, MONDAY, JUNE 3, 1929 The FIL orf SAS Che 'New Mode St S------ SPECIALLY IMPORTANT ARE THE SMART PRINTED STUFFS They Include The New Cottons, Linens And Rayons, As Well As The Silks. Their Charm Is The Dominant Note In Fashion, For They Are Fashion RR \ '> 2 > . réyy - met . yr ' HE fashion trend has now crystallized into a mode, so far as materials are con- cerned. If you are interested in the relative values of the differ- ent textiles, their weight, design, or lack of it, and use in the smart- est models, then you can judge very accurately, and assure yourself a correct choice. As ever, there is a quarrel on between plain and printed fabrics, with the latter very generally used--and abused. For nothing In all the material mode so obviously effects both height and breadth as design, whether it be of the material or the dress it- self, This situation is apparent, no matter what the fabric group, for silks vie with cottons and cot- tons with linens, in a desire for originality. A Special Few Favored In every type there are several that out-rank all the others in popularity, but this does not min- imize the importance of those in the latter class. Take the cotton group, for example. Listed in it we have dimity, sateen, pique, gingham, broadcloth, organdy, zephyr, volle and linen, the latter not really a cotton, but classed with it. Observation points to the overwhelming popularity of prints in all weaves. But pique is best liked, if sales charts are any indication, and they are. Fashion likes linen and ging- ham, too, and approves sateen, as well, And we see very few plain colors in any of these materials, for there is charm in the color combinations that are carried out in the printed designs. Never has there been such a variety of both weaves and patterns as there is at the moment--a well-rounded ward- robe is assured. If You Are A Necdlewoman When warm weather breaks we are immediately thrown into a fever of desire for cool frocks, and nothing serves the purpose as well as the washable materials----cotton, linen, silk. With a single pattern of good lines, a few pieces of fabric, and a little imagination, a complete wardrobe can be achieved at a moderate cost. A practical suggestion to this end may ald you in solving, with saving, your prob- Jem, The sleeveless dress is very much in the mode, and it is a very simple thing to make. These dresses differ, really, only in details of trimming, and that problem can be solved by buttons, belts, pock- ets, appliques and like decoration. A printed linen or two; a sateen, a silk pique, a pongee or Rajah sllk--why, it only takes, at the most, four yards for a dress, and the possibilities are endless, though not expensive. There Are Many Silks In this group we include the crepes, as well as the real silks, for both are made of silk threads. The printed silks outnumber the plain by a great majority, although there is beauty in a rich crepe in some lovely color. Imported frocks, with much hand-work, are offered in the neutrals, pastels and some of the high shades, and this state- ment applies to voiles, as well as to the crepes. They are really beautiful. . Afternoon brings out chiffon, and one practically never sees this fabric, in the daytime, in a plain color. Mousseline de soie is an- other favorite silk, and Georgette is a classic, always obtainable, and always correct. Moire silk is shown, and evening brings us satin. The rough silks--Shantung, Rajah and pongee are all approved, and they wear so well that it would be practically impossible to replace them. Designs Vary Widely As would be. expected, there are large, small and medium designs, just as there are bold and indefi- nite designs. Patterned materials include close prints, with figures so small that the fabric seems a solid color at a distance, and large, sprawly prints that are extremely difficult to wear. But we may not forget that checks, plaids and stripes belong in this class, and the polka-dotted designs are im- portant. In spite of the flair for modern- istic art, nothing seems to take the place of florals, both small and large, although they are, some- times, effected by the angles, curves and quaint grotesqueries of this newest art, Small designs are favored in silks and the large de- signs in cottons. In the light welght velvets that are so popular for wraps, we see no patterned weaves, nor do the wools look fav- orably on printed effects. resses Fabric and Color Three ways of obtaining an effective color combination. An ensemble uses a twin print, dot design. A plaid is combined with a ___ | plain material. Two plain fabrics are used. ROBABLY the most feminine fashion of the many that are to be found in the present-day mode Is that of the hostess gown, and, of course, its sister, the neg- ligee. We are bound to give them some attention, for they have changed with changing fashions, and in them we find the newest themes of the newest mode, and the softest and most graceful in- terpretations of them. Lines, fabrics and colors, all unite to make them. First of all, the fabrics are en- trancing. Chiffons, Georgette, flow- ered triple voile, satin, the crepes, and the most exquisite laces are combined in various ways. And all of these fabrics are soft and supple and, therefore drapable, for the hostess gown makes much of draperies. Colors are gay or dull as one chooses, and many times black is used to give that perfect' The H Dstess Gown accent that only black can glve-- it's a French accent, The low, dipping lines, trailing lengths, tiers and flounces and draperies are the preferred lines, and almost without exception, the flares and flounces are set low. Wide sleeves that dip, falling even to the hem of the gown, back panels that become trains and pea- cock backs that do the same are featured, and at times two thick- nesses of sheer chiffon, in two shades, is used, trimmed with a real lace of cobwebby fineness. Artificial flowers, really too love- ly to be lost to fashion, have been accorded prominence at the late openings. And they are different, as they should be, evidenced by a boutonniere of daisies, yellow, white and black, on a black coat. Shapi T only takes a brief period of observation to prove to even the most skeptical that little folks' fashions are replicas of those that grown-ups wear. When pleats and tucks and handwork beautify mother's frocks, little sister and Their Future Tastes brother wear pleated, tucked and hand-adorned things. Lines, too, follow the same course, although there is, in a general way, no real similarity in the result--age takes care of that. Exemplifying this, the little sis- Sister and Brother ensemble suits always attract attention, but of white linen and trimmed with bands of they are mad .| more effective than a costly outfit ter and brother ensemble sketched. Both dress and suit are of white line poplin trimmed with bands of green and yellow--popular color combination with mother, too. And little sister wears a jacket, just as big sister does. To carry the com- parison a bit further, the suits are sleeveless sun-sults, and the jackets | --brother has one, too, are three- button. Adorable, aren't they? Never make the mistake of thinking that any plece of ma- terial, or any color, or any model will do, for the child that is small. Every child has a distinct possi- bility, when it comes to being clothed, and there is a very cer- tain personality that must be brought out. It is, or should be, a duty and a pleasure to see that the child is dressed just as per- fectly as possible, and attaining perfection means considering many different things. J Each child is a type. Certain colors, even certain shades of colors are more effective than others, and it is the same with lines. An out- fit need not be expensive. If its fabric is washable, possesses the right color, and is'made up the right way, it may be as effective as a really expensive outfit. One can go further, for it can be far that is wrong In line and color. Most important of all, and one indisputable reason for exercising care in what you put onto a child, is the fact that you are cultivating the taste of that child. Dull, ugly stuffs, worn because a& mother thinks them practical, may result in a taste that runs to impossible colors, when the child is old enough to choose for herself. Beauty is not always synonymous with costliness, and it should be set as a standard. It is well to permit the child to choose for herself, once she old enough to do so. Then, if her taste runs to the wrong things, she is| cially for street or sports, there are HE fashion world has gone Jacket mad. There are jacket sults and jacket frocks, and #0 many variations of them that we are bewildered. First in importance, of course, is the jacket suit, and when this is the question a second element enters in, the the scores of blouses and little Sleeveless, tuck-in models will be blouse. So once again the blouse departments in our shops are doing an enormous business, for the eco- nemical woman sees the value of this versatile fashion. The sleeveless frock is an ap- proved sports fashion, and is be- ing introduced into the more for- mal groups. Evening dresses are sleeveless anyway, and provide for another group of jackets. So one can, quite reasonably, have a fuN jacket wardrobe, and a blouse wardrobe and a skirt wardrobe, as well as the usual complement of coats and frocks. If color and line and fabric are kept carefully in mind, the result is versatility. For daytime use, and more spe- several possibilities. Of course, we have the classic "blazer jacket" of can be taught, and explanations given her for making a different § 11d ¢ 3 ad story--- Asthel striped flannel in lovely colorings, and semetimes as many as three or four are cor The rei brings us blazer jackets of cotton pique, and they have the added value of being washable, which makes them extremely practical. They are, usually, two colors. Pique furnishes many clever lit- tle jacket coats, among them the dotted patterns, a summer color We will make up our own jacket costumes, this summer, from coats that are provided for us. most important. with a large coin dot in white, for example. A yellow pique, dotted in white would serve a frock in either white or yellow, and, if you care to go further, in certain Completing the Jacket Costume shades of green. Then there are the coats of quilted calico prints, and others, as here sketched, of printed linen. Lovely with white! It is possible to obtain any num- ber of colors in silk jackets, and they will work into the wardrobe beautifully. They are quite cor- rect with practically any fabric, for fashion is making strange com- binations this yearn. Afternoon frocks of the formal type are in- clined to match the jacket to the frock, which perfects the after- noon ensemble and makes it a pos- sibility for early evening wear, | dinner and the theater. Blouses are both slip-over and tuck-in in type, and their materials range from the piques and linens, through silks and crepes, to chif- fon, the latter newest. They are designed especially for wear with the silk ensemble suit, which is coming, now, in three pleces, and is made more versatile thereby, as blouses lend it variety. DID YOU KNOW -- HAT there is a new head C gear that combines the smart- ness of the turban with the sports note of the bandanna? It is a clever affair that stays on and does not come untied as the old- fashioned bandanna persisted in doing. Wool tricot and straw com- bine with silk. THAT a clever ensemble is proof positive that fine detail is the most important trimming note of the mode? It is made up of a frock and coat of silk, the former a two- piece affair, and both tucked and scalloped in imitation of a seashell. The coat has a cape. THAT the smartest women are wearing Shantung silk, which means that it will dominate fash- fon at the smart sports resorts? They are making frocks, jackets and ensembles of it, running the range of active and spectator sports. There are berets of this silk, also. THAT the newest sports hats of bangkok or panama. are planned for wear with several dresses, and adjust themselves to the costume by the simple expedient of chang- ing the band? Two or three bands are provided with each hat, and you can add to the group, if you wish. MANY NEW SHADES OF OLD COLORS PIQUE OUR INTEREST Individuality Depends Upon The Suiting Of Color Harmony To The Person Who Wears It. Strong Shades, Subtle Shades And Neutrals Are All Important UST suppose that you were denied your right to color in- dividuality, and were trans- ported back to the days when there were reds, blues, greens, browns, blacks and whites, and the latter two were not used in the plural at all. It was a time when black was black, and white was white, and we never took into con- sideration the fact that a dull finish or a glossy one might make the difference between becomingness and lack of it. You could wear green or you couldn't, and it was the same with other colors. An overtone was never heard or thought of, and monotones and duotones and all the words that go to make up our color vocabulary today were, for our purposes, un- defined. Compare that day with the present. The Value Of Overtones It is not strange that we have colors that our mothers and grand- mothers never dreamed of, for fit would truly be strange were no advance made with the passing years. Motors and flying ships and radios and all the modern neces- sities were unknown to them, and progress is evident everywhere. That we have, as a basis, the same varying shades, and oftentimes our education is advanced by the use of other colors that are correct for combination with the featured color, or for accessories to be worn with it. You can check up om fashion by these displays, demand creates supply! There is a very great deal of in- terest shown in yellow for the summer months, and we can make this an elastic rule by saying that the yellow deepens into orange, running the gamut of the nastur- tium shades. Yellow, if you can find a becoming shade, is a really lovely color, even though it is the sunshine shade that summer might seem to discourage, for heat and sunshine are summer prerogatives. Yellow with black is smart. Green Is A Summer Color Probably the coolest color--to the eye, is green, and there are so many shades in this color that there is sure to be one for you. The gray-greens and the blue- greens and the yellow greens are all featured, with the odd char- treuse a favorite, especially with blue and black. Its fashion im- portance makes it a menace, for it is very trying, although it need not be used near the face, if one must LAMPS FOR THE GRADUATE ---y vv ond (fi te eX 3 Here are some lamps for the graduate that have nothing to the Lamp of Wisdom but which will be quite as wel Th do with U] left sketch shows an adaptation of an old English pewter lamp-- chimney and all. an entirely dern contriva The very small stiff chintz shade is quaint, Next is the book light--designed for those who just must know what "happened-in-the-next-chapter" regardless of the clock. with one's room. silk shade make a very dainty lamp for a young girl's room. The shade is two thicknesses of chiffon. and their perch are porcelain. The book light comes in all sorts of cheerful shades to harmonize The two little yellow love birds perched under a The birds primary colors, we know, but varia- tions and gradations of those colors merely means modernism. The open sesame to a color that we have felt we could not wear may lie In a faint tinge of another, and more becoming, color. This tint is called an overtone, and ef- fects its background considerably. There are greens with yellow, or blue, even reddish overtones, and this may mean that the blue that is becoming will make the green that is not, a possibility. It is true with every other color on the card. Certain Colors Are Preferred The blues and greens, the reds and browns, and the yellows are, apparently, fashion's favorites. We see whole windows filled with a display of a single color in fits a The EIGE is no longer a shade of a B color, but a color in itself. And southern wear has stressed it as one of the smartest colors of the new mode. There are some beautiful tones in this group--one that is just off white, known' as ivory, some delightful yellow beiges, another shade that is known as taffy, and the pastel beiges that have a hint of mauve or rose in their make-up. In a showing of frocks several new ideas were noted, among them the use of taffy-toned beige # Importance of Beige and rhinestones were used for trim- ming and the lines were the lengthened ones of the new sil- houette. A flat crepe in ivory beige was a tailored affair with a fringed sash and an odd V-line col- lar. A yellow beige wore belt and bows of luscious brown velvet. Beige chiffon makes an evening frock that will stand the acid test of rivalry, especially when it has ornaments of crystal brilllants to help it along. And the new coats seem' to like the color, for they urs, when en tim ® this color. The fur may fashion neither collar or cuffs, but may, instead, edge a short, smart cape. It Is specially good on black. There are many fur-less coats and ensembles in the new mode, and for wear with these fashion offers the pale beige fox fur--it may have a yellowish, ivory, peach or taffy-toned cast. Javanese beige, a rose beige with a gray cast, is another tone in fox furs, and it is smart to have the fur contrast with the coat, though it may tone in_ with the frook the. nr Ad wear it and doubts its becoming- ness. There are some clever color com= binations, as brown and white, the black and yellow mentioned above, blue and white, certain shades of green and yellow, and a tricolor effect in blue, a rich navy, graded shades of yellow and a slate gray. White we must expect, and it is al- ways lovely, and in some tone will' prove becoming. Mention must be made of the new sun-tan tones, the beiges and tans--we may class them with hrawn . Consiaering the Sketches In the sketches that appear om this page we have some clever uses of color, made absolutely perfect by the materials in which they are carried out. The lady in the sleeveless frock is partial to the vogue for twin prints, and her dress is a combination of rose and white;, the dots on the blouse of the former color against a white background and the skirt, belt and jacket rose colored linen dotted with white, . The jacket ensemble in plaid combimes black with yellow, and the jacket is of the black, the ma- ; terial linen. The frock is a yellow gingham, barred with black, and this fabric is used for the collar and cuffs of the jacket. The third ensemble uses yellow with brown, the jacket and skirt the latter, and made of crepe de chine, the blouse | of yellow linen. Frayed crepe de i to .