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SS ---- ' [The HZ /774 of Fd 770 X IF HER GRADUATION MONTH IS JUNE College Days End in a Blaze of Fashion Glory The Wardrobe for Commencement Week Is a Rather Intricate Thing, For There Are Many Festivities Attendant On It. And a Lovely Thing, Too! Br (teri T would be heresy, to the young woman who is leaving her Alma Mater this spring, to even sug- gest that her clothes for the affairs of commencement week must be bound about with rules and regulations, that is, rules other than the usual ones of tyfe. For general fashions are her fash- fons, and the fact that she is a graduate only serves to make her more discriminating, for the best, the smartest, the most individual are the only ones possible. In spite of herself, however, she must yield in some things to custom, for one's college graduation is not all frivo- lous, the serious note a dominant one on Commencement day itself. The "Cap And Gown" Frock It is a pleasing tradition, that of the cap and gown, and many col- leges still follow it, so that when the graduates assemble for the ex- ercises that will grant them the degree for which they have worked so long, they wear the regulation uniform cof a senior. Just what the frock will be that is worn beneath it must be regulated by what follows, and it frequently hapens that a sleeveless white sports frock is the choice. The gown itself is rather heavy, and if no festivity follows imme- diately after the exercises, then the simpler, and cooler the dress, the better. Even when there is a luncheon or dinner, as a climax to the ceremonies, it is customary for the graduates to wear the cap and gown regalia. So a frock of soft silk, crepe de chine, even cot- ton or linen, may be a necessary item in the wardrobe for com- mencement week. When Tradition Is Not Followed If it 1s the custom of the college to discard this badge of seniority, then 'a white frock of real sim- plicity, but genuine charm, is the choice. An afternoon model, per- haps, minus sleeves and plus a dip- ping hemline. A frock that is not too formal, for there must be lit- tle of fussiness about if, yet such a frock may well go out of an evening, in an informal way, long after the week of weeks is but a memory. But there will be other events, chief among them the Commence- ment dance, when there will be no restrictions of any sort concerning the glory of apparel. Evening dress at its lovely best will be the order of the day--or evening! And each graduate will vie with every other in the attainment of that individuality which is so impor- tant. The event will present a scene of extreme beauty, colorful, exotic, rare. Sketched on the Screen Typical of the widely varying types of frocks, the first a simple little affair of crepe de chine, the second tulle over taffeta, we have the model that is worn either with or without a gown, and the eve- ning frock that dances the evening hours away. The model in crepe de chine is pleated as to skirt and has some exquisite hand work and embroideries of small beads. The High School girl could wear such a frock. \ The gown of tulle and taffeta is carried out in one of the Capucine shades, and it features the sil- houette that designers are pleased to call mermaid. We are some- what used to the princesse lines, but here we have the stiffened tulle following the lines suggested. An individual model sure to dis- tinguish its wearer, who must com- plete her costume with an evening wrap and the usual accessories that complete costume detail. There Is Contrast In Color The cape pictured is of light blue taffeta, and its chief feature is a shirred collar lined with capucine red, although the flared skirt of the cape is most unusual, Strict. attention is given footwear and hosiery, the former dyed to match the frock, perhaps, and the latter in a shade that blends per- fectly. Baguette crystals are con- sidered smart for jewelry, and there will be a kerchief, even a fan, to compl the 0 events there will be certain types of clothes, among them sports things, for the inevita- ble ball game or tennis match, and afternoon frocks that are correct for an afternoon reception or tea. Such a dress may well be of flow- ered chiffon, sleeveless, and worn with a jacket, if one wishes, of the material. Again there will be close harmony when it comes to acces- sories, and all the nice distinctions will be properly observed. 'When you get a coat of tan, you are very smart, indeed, but it isn't always one type of coat. It may be the result of exposure to the sun, or to temptation in the shops, for coats of tan tweed, cashmere, covert, broadcloth and Whichever way the screen turns, it presents a delightful picture. Simplicity dominates, even when the fabrics are rich and lines intricate. basket weave are approved. New Bows and Old OW-KNOTS are not new, so far as trimmings are con- cerned, indeed, they are as old as fashion. But this present season is making a fetich of them, and we find them a trimming motif that is, at the same time, gay, perky, saucy, youthful and ex- tremely light-hearted. They ap- pear on everything imaginable, and are big and little, single and double, narrow and wide, all at A GIF1 FOR REMEMBRANCE'S SAKE E are constantly hunting for excuses to send cards and give gifts, a symbol of good comradeship and friendliness. And what is more fitting than a remembrance for the girl who is closing one period of her life and entering upon another? After all, there are but very few perhaps. And yet others go in for sports, and are happiest when ac- tive in the out-of-doors. But where will you find a girl that does not love clothes and the appur~ tenances thereto? And as it hap- pens, there are special clothes for special types, and your thought, little or big, can be fittingly ex- occasions that are as worthy of| pressed through them. If she loves dainty thi to her--sheer, lace-trimmed Posi or wrap for evening. thought as the day on which we close the doors .of one school be- hind us and open the doors of another. For even when it is a day that means we are bidding good-bye to text books, we are, just the same, registering In another school, the hardest one of all, for the lessons we study under Experience. are many times, extremely difficult. duation day b a day of gifts, and there is no excuse, in this era of variety, for a gift that is not both appropriate and practical. Let us see, then, what it may be. then evening accessories will appeal , crystal jewelry, a jacket, shawl Gloves, hosiery, flowers--of the fashion sort, handbags, kerchiefs, these are possible for everyone, and they may be tailored, sports, semi-formal or formal, as the re- cipient would prefer. The sketches illustrate the idea of appropriate things for two of the types, and the parallel may be carried out in other types. Incidentally, if she does not like clothes, there are, always, books and flowers, the tra- ditional gifts. The Gift Of Luxury When it is something that she would not, otherwise, have had, then it is, to her, a luxury. For the girl who plays at outdoors sports, % ReCkiace of wooden beads Whe, gn _A dances, and makes much of her evening apparel. For the sports type there are sweaters, and there are jackets, but there are jackets for the other types as well, and they differ widely and amazingly. It may be a frivolous affair of lace, of moire, of taffeta, and then it would be for evening. It might be a belted jacket or a cardigan, and then it would be for sports or for general wear. And it might be of caltco or a print, quilted, and then it would be included in the sports group. And so the idea may be followed through the entire range of garments and accessories, on into things apart from clothes. There are costly and lovely vani- ties, although the two are not al- ways synonymous. If she smokes, and modern girls do, whether you approve it or not, there are cigar- ettte cases and holders and lighters | --separately, or in a smoker's en- semble. There are dainty things for her room, and there are all the splendors of tofletries, and certain you may be that no girl ever has too many bottles and boxes of bath salts and soaps and creams. the same time, There is no set rule--just bows! Where the designer once placed a flower, she now perches a bow. She replaces a buckle or a button with them, and then, for good measure, uses them for no reason at all. They appear on hats, and in various places--top, sides, back. And there is no type of costume that is not trimmed with bows, of ribbon, a trimming material, or the fabric of the garment itself. Be- ginning the day, bows end it, at midnight. The sports outfit, made of tweed, and severely simple, wears a bow in place of the gardenia that was, at one time, considered indispensi- ble. A coat of tweed, utility type, is fastened at the neckline with a bow. And when the coat or the jacket has no bow, the blouse has, and this trimming detail appears at the hipline and at the neckline, sometimes two or three, in due order, like soldiers in ranks. Frocks of silk crepe, so very popular at the moment, display diagonal or horizontal lines and bands, finished with bows, and the sleevescomplete the theme. Evening dresses achieve bustle effects, or draperies by the use of bows, either at the back or at one side. Evening wraps of transparent velvet have draped collars that end in bows, usually of a contrasting color, as white on black, and, sometimes, of a contrasting material. There are some most intriguing frocks of chiffon, and with them it is smart to wear a wrap of transparent valvet. Try a black wrap over a frock in a brilllant color, or combine it with a subtle | orchid hue--you'll find it lovely. If she is the athletic, Rosi type, then ros : e same, and the j oy When Paris Says It's So E have come to look upon ©: city as the source of our fashions. a French label assumes impor- tance, and we watch for the opin- fons of Parisian originators with the feeling that their say-so pre- faces the mode. But a close ob- server will find that in this par- ticular season even Paris fs not sure of herself, and many of the things that 'Paris says," contra- dict each other, apparently, from the start. This is, of course, the result of variety, but we are, none the less, interested in her many decisions as to color and line. We read, one day, that Paris will have little but blacdk, if smartness is to be achieved. Another day orchid is the favored hue, again it is blue, and yet again chartreuse, that pe- culiar yellowish green that is so trying. And we assume, logically, that all four of these colors are modish at the moment. One designer will have nothing of the coat that is not straight of line, while another insists that coats must flare, and we, as a re- sult, choose either one with an easy conscience. If an originator tells us that the coatless frock is A model that has her choice, we have only to consult another to find that the frock with a coat is, to her mind, the only one. One says that skirts will be longer, another that they will not, but more incline to the former opinion. It is the same with 'materials. One showing stresses flat crepes, while another likes chiffon, a third Georgette, a fourth stress- ing cloth ensembles and light weight woolens. And it is all | founded upon the apparently new- ly discovered fact that what is style to one is poison to another, hence there must be things enough to go around and keep us all becomingly dressed. It is a question of posi- tives and negatives. Just for a postscript, there is further news, but this time "Amer- ica says!" Our own country is responsible for many fashions, among them bobbed hair, the tai- lored silk frock, the sleeveless resort fashions that will rule the summer mode, and the off-the- forehead movement in millinery. They say it was the flappers pen- chant for wearing her hat on the back of her head! So--it may be that some day soon America will say even more than Paris. ET FASHIONS FOR JUNIORS N old-time Godey's Book of Peston shows the little girl clothed in frocks that are replicas of her mother's. A cen- tury or so from now, the woman who looks back to the fashion of today will make the same com- ment, for the same rules govern mature and junior dress--with lim- itations, of course. Especially chic are the details that make of the little frocks and coats models of true individuality. Beginning with the small girl whose "ensemble" must include bloomers, as well as dress .and coat, and ending with the sub-deb, who adopts mother's' clothes without even a comment, the theme of har- mony dominates. With a single coat several dresses are linked, keeping a basic scheme of color, type and material. For the junior must give attention to type, as well as to harmony. There are a very great many en- sembles of the sports type, rather severe little affairs, if we compare them with the party frocks that are included in the formal group. The two-piece outfit is far and away the most practical, for it possesses possibilities of combina- tion with other two-piece dresses. Any thing that savors of monotony is avoided by the use of details and by combining colors or shades of them. : The little things of the mode, termed feminine in mature fash- fons, seem to belong to the junior. Scarfs appear on many of the models, capes are a separate gar- ment and part of .the coat, and even the simplest of the "fittle frocks are collared. Sashes appear on the moré frilly frocks, which hen lines that are so very effective, and many of these sashes are of ribbon, either plain or brocaded. DID YOU KNOW-- HAT there is an unbreakable rule that the hat and coat worn with a fur scarf must be the very simplest type? Fur is a luxury, and fox furs are so much of a decoration in themselves that any other decoration would be superfluous. THAT the black frock, far and away the smartest of all frocks, must now wear a lingerie touch of white, or some shade near kin to it? The little black dressmaker frock, a sophisticated thing of clever lines and interesting hand- work, is the choice. THAT they are offering jewelry that has been specially designed for the polka-dotted dress? It is rather quaint, this jewelry, and it is made of beads, red and white, blue and white, or green and white, as the dress demands, the colors alternated. The Graduation Outfit Regulated by Precedent It Is Becoming More and and | More the Thing To Dress Unifromly At Secondary School Commencement Exercises. Even High Schools Adopt the Idea O promote the democracy for which our country is famed, although there are times when that same democracy is seriously in doubt, someone has conceived the idea of limiting ex- penditures, when it comes to grad- nation day. And the idea is an excellent one. It is hardly fair for the girl who has attained an equal standing with her classmates to be made unhappy on the occa- sion of her graduation by the feel- ing that she is not as well dressed as some of her friends. Hence the uniform idea, and others kin to it, where money is not the object, but smartness instead. There are several ways that this is achieved. The Girls Make Their Own Now that sewing is taught in our public schools, the idea of having each girl make her own graduation dress is gaining in popularity. A limit is set on the amount that can be spent, and type must be considered, then the finished product attests the skill of the wearer. In some schools middies and skirts are worn, but with the coming of the simple, smart little sports dress, the popu- larity of this outfit is waning. . But there are still a very great many schools where there are no restrictions, except, perhaps, as to color, and there it is that we shall see the rare simplicity of junior fashions, which make use of soft materials, exquisite handwork, and lines that are deceptive in that same simplicity. Stepping from the Junior High into the Senior i & / / \ . [\ tures that make it quite grown-up in appearance. The tight hipline, the ruffled skirt, the deep, .plastron- like collar, all these are features of the general mode, as applied to senior fashions. The ornament seems to be an odd arrangement of small pieces of the dress fabric-- nothing more than scraps. The Junior Mode In General There seems to be little in fash- fon nowadays that is denied the Junior. A certain artless sim- plicity replaces the sophistication of the older woman, but details of finish are much the same, and, with certain restrictions, materials and colors. As a matter of fact the older woman cannot wear the new colors half as well as the young girl, and the slenderness of youth makes possible all sorts of frills and furbelows. But within certain limitations, these frills! It is imperative, if a model be successful, that it possess frills without seeming to. And this is art of the realest sort, and, if you stop to analyze it, the idea back of the fashions of the mo- ment, the thing that makes them the most intriguing modes that we have ever known. Simple ma- terials, but rich, and, almost with- out , exception, some shade of white. There Are Tones Of White Dead white is not, always, the most becoming thing a girl can wear, but there will be some shade of white that will be quite all right for her. It is an excellent ex- Georgette, very rich and heavy, for the older girl, and crepe de chine for the younger. delightful. High is quite as important to the youngster who is doing the step- ping, as to her older sister. Crepes Are A Fabric Favorite There are some very lovely lit- tle dresses for the girl of the junior high age, made of crepe de chine, and they are shirred or smocked in the manner of the model draw- ing. Note the width of the skirt, the suggestion of a blouse, and the very smart fitted hipline. Such Details of finish make them individual and ample of the pliability of modern fashions that there are shades of every color, including black and white which are not classed as colors. So bear in mind this fact, and the other that parallels it-- certain fabric textures are more becoming than others. There is nothing lovelier in the trimming category than handwork. Ruffles that are scalloped may be picoted or bound, and there are a dress p the simplicity, but is not without dig- nity and sophistication. It can be colored, later on, and become a very useful thing. The second model would be charming on the high school grad- uate. Its material is a heavy white Georgette, and it possesses fea- intricacl o! ki shirring, tucking and pleating that add to the beauty of a model. Drawn work and hem-stitchery are always effective, and the material itself may be so beautiful that it pro- vides decoration. Keep the frock simple, if you would have it both correct and effective. WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT IT? E speak, all of us, with a sort of intimate knowledge, of the newest mode. But what do we know about it? What do you, as an individual, know of the authenticity of certain style features and details? Before you go further into the business of accumulating a wardrobe, it would be well for you to check up on many things, and to make for yourself a questionnaire, answering it from close observation in the shops. Just how far does the sun-tan vogue really go? It is, you will admit, something more than a comp On Ng) au am % What is its effect on lines and colors, and on the garments that we wear? And what are the col- ors that are considered newest, and, therefore, smartest, in the season's accessories. Just to tease you, here's one--chartreuse. Can you wear it, and will you resist it, if you cannot? a Where is the waistline, and what is the featured silhouette? What and where is the hemline, and is it the same for all hours of the day and evening? What is being done to the neckline, and which neckline is the favorite? may you dispense with them? What are the smartest materials, and where do they belong in the fabric roster, as applied to our general wardrobe? What of the Pyjama mode? What about jackets? Are they good at all times of the day, and if they are, what special jacket fits every special purpose? It is so simple to be smart, this season, for there is something for every type, taste and need. But as always, when' there is variety, it is easy to miss smartness by just that bit that distinguishes between the usual and a fora nd Bla a