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Ces gr wor pl plicityin SmartE _ There Is A Deft Use Of Material, Color And ted Sim. Line That Makes The Frock And Wrap Appropriate For Casino, Country Club Or Roof. If There Are Any New Ideas In General Fashion, They Are Sure To Be Featured In The Up-To-Date Ensemble sys Cn HATEVER is newest may | always be found in the frock designed for evening wear, for it is the try-out place of the mode that is always in the making. Many an idea dies almost with its inception, but when a theme proves acceptable in formal attire it is quite sure to find its way, modified perhaps, into the daytime fashions of the season that follows. But summer evening wear is rather different from that of winter time in another way than fabrics, for it has less of formality, a characteristic that is exceedingly important in the garments that not only dine and dance with the strictest formal manner, but dis- play themselves on important nights at the Opera. Not that for- mality will be lacking, for it most assuredly will not, just that the evening ensemble will absorb the vacation spirit of the season. Summery Fabrics Prevail That means the frock of chiffon, of lace, of net, even of organdy, and failing these four the always dependable crepe, especially the flat - variety. Probably there Is nothing quite so wholly in the spirit of summer as the organdy dress, combined, if you like, with net or lace. A peach organdy with flounces and a deep bertha collar of black lace, very sheer and delicate, would be of this season and no other, hence worthy of con~ sideration. There is more of sophistication in the tulles and nets and laces, for the very thin materials are, usually, made over satin, and they incline to elaboration, the tulles and nets, especially. Many little ruffies aré used to make the skirt of an adorable frock of sea green tulle, the bodice above a fitted affair, Shoulder straps, jeweled, are in a deeper green, and the frock is worn beneath an evening wrap of transparent velvet the hue of the stra " ps. Chiffon The Year Round Readily cl d as a fabric, chiffon 1s, nevertheless, quite as important in the winter mode. Probabiy no one material is as often represented, and at the moment we have the flowered chif- fons to consider. Nothing is more appropriate for roof dining and dancing, since there may- be a Jacket of the same fabric to turn the dress into a semi-formal af- fair, if one finds, on arrival, that real formality is not exactly the prevailing spirit. Lace is always the utmost in sophistication, and when it is very sheer it is a typical summer ma- terial. Frocks of this fabric, as of chiffon, have capes or jackets to match, and for the same reason they often appear on the smart town roof. Satin is smart, but one feels that it is less appropriate, in a way. than the filmy fabrics that are typical of the summer season. It is when winter fashions begin to arrive that materials with a "body" are featyred. Colors Show Rich Variety It is only natural that there should be a deal of white, since this 4s a preferred hue with the sun-tan complexion. Then there are the sun-tan shades, yellow and topaz, and the brown tints in com- bination, again the sun-tan vogue is responsible. There are many soft pastels being worn, and always the sophisticated black, never fail- ing of smartness. Black lace or net over flesh, bright colors and the 'hard-to-wear chartreuse are all fashionable. is gradually growing longer in front, and continuing long in back. Then there is the longer hemline that is even all the way round-- much interest is evinced in the length of the new skirts. There is, of course, a deep decolletage, al- though it may vary in its line, a p 7, U An informal riding outfit of gabardine jodphurs and short sleeved cotton jersey shirt is smart for the country. Tennis in trousers is a popular fad. The costume sketched shows tuck-in sleeveless sweater with sun-tan back worn with Bs Jinan Srougere, "SUMMER EVENINGS Evening Apparel Details include a hemline that | There's a hint of fall in the frock of sea blue panne velvet, a new rayon fabric that looks very like satin at a distance and has the advantage of being non-crushable, The wrap at its left is blue, also, but transparent velvet. The frock of red moire has square arm- holes and neckline, a draped girdle and side train. Vee or a U-back. The square neckline and arm-hole is being featured a bit, and summer eve- ning frocks are quite likely to take a short train. With Fall In Mind There is, apparently, to be a diversion of opinion, when it comes to fall evening materials, for two distinct types are being shown, both when it comes to surface finish, and when it comes to tex- ture. For there are frocks offered in the advance showings that make usé of dull finishes, and frocks that will have nought of them, taking very shiny surfaced fabrics. And where some of the materials are very stiff of texture, others are soft and supple. Velvet will, of course, be a leader in every department of fashion. Panne velvet, with its shiny sur- face, will be a rival of the duller, erect-pile velvets. Crepe finishes and chiffons belong to the group of @ull finishes, and in contrast we have satin and sheer fabrics with a cire finish. The chiffons and laces again offset the taffetas, moires, satins and the recently revived peau de sole silk. Chic variety will be the watchword. The Correct Wrap for the Frock O frock is correct or complete without the outer covering that makes it into an ensem- ble. It may be a jacket or a short cape, or it may be a coat, or it may be a wrap, if the dress is an evening affair, but the selection of 'a model always carries with it the extra task of assuring one's self that the necessary other garment is available. In these summer days of informal dining and danc- ing, perhaps on a hotel roof, the evening wrap is indispensible. The average woman will make one wrap do for her several gowns, whether they be simple or intri- cate, formal or informal. She may possess a shawl or huge scarf that will do duty on very warm eye- nings, but the usual wrap is not heavy enough to be useless even when it is hot. No one feels cor- rectly dressed without either a jacket that matches the frock--the usual choice when the latter is a chiffon, or a specially devised wrap of luxurious fabrie. Probably the most useful of the many models offered is the wrap of velvet, either transparent or panne, the latter a bit newer than the former. It will be made in one of two ways, short, so that the beauty. of dipping, trailing skirts below may be visible, or it will be long, and will be fashioned with the same details that are applied to the frocks themselves, details such as tiers, flounces, yokes and all the dressmaker niceties that are vogue. Sometimes the evening wrap is the same color and shade as the frock over which it is worn, and again it is the same color but a different shade. Then there are bright-hued wraps worn for con- trast, and when one keeps to pale hues in her frocks this may be very smart. But there is nothing more practical than a wrap of black velvet, for it will- be smart with any. color. Beige, eggshell, white, parchment and coffee are neutrals for general wear. The Wings of a Butterfly HE newest inspiration for eve- ning clothes is the butterfly, a charming one. and the resultant silhouette is sidered smart to match the frock And {it is con- and the wrap, when It comes to lines, using materials for both that will reproduce the grace and charm of these lovely moths. There is nothing loveller than a gathering of womenfolk clad in approved evening fashions--with their floating, dipping lines. For frocks of this type chiffon, tulle, even taffetas are used, while the wrap demands transparent velvet, satin or a metal brocade. Colors are the jewel, flower or real butterfly hues, and some of the combinations are exquisite. Close- ly allied with this silhouette are the flower lines--designers have gone to the source of all loveliness, nature, and found there an inspira- tion that cannot be parallelled. The wrap of transparent velvet will have, perhaps, a cape, or it may have deep, dipping flounces, and a bow poised on one shoulder. For bows are butterfly bows, these days, which are days of bows. . The brocade and satin wraps use them for decoration, but transparent velvet is the preferred fabric. A frock of one shade, and a wrap of another, is one of the most effect- | | ive color combinations in the eve- ning mode. - A Typical Sports Wardrobe T will be filled with simple things that will be the utmost in smartness and sophistication. Everything will be a poem in color, and will be meticulously made, of fabrios that are approved of the most famous couturieres. And every possible sport will be considered, from the early morn- ing canter through to the final cup of tea on the veranda, before the rest hours that precede the eve- nings activities. These togs are for the woman who does things! There will be a tennis frock, several of them, unless one pre- fers to play the game in pants of heavy unbleached cotton. The frock will be of silk or crepe de chine or linen and will have pleats or gores to give it the requisite width. There will be no sleeves and scarcely more of a back, and white and the pastels will be the colors, For wear with this group of frocks there will be the correct shoes dnd a gypsy scarf for the head. If pants are the preference, there will be shirts for wear with them, tuck-in affairs, with cap sleeves and turn-back collars, or sun-tan fash- fon. And a beret of sorts will be included. There are so many pants, trousers and pyjamas in the sports fleld 'at the moment! Gay on striped in brilliant colors, or linén overalls, worn over a brightly striped shirt, or sallor trousers, or any type at all that appeals to the individual who is to wear them. There will be a swim-suit or two, and a coat or cape or jacket to complete the costume, and all the accessories that go with such a costume. Tha riding eutfit w. . b be made up of jodphurs and coat, in linen--white or natural hue, or some equally appropriate fabric. Beneath the coat there will be a shirt of linen or silk or jersey, and the hat will be of felt, although they're wearing sun-tan outfits, overalls, shirt and bandanna for riding on the beach. There will be several jacket suits, varying from two and three to five pleces. It is smart to possess an outfit that is made up of a blouse and shorts in some pat- terned silk, over which one wears a skirtjof crepe, there may be two in the outfit, one of wool and one of silk, and a jacket that matches either one or the other of the skirts, The Frock of the Week It is knitted, and it is In one piece, and it looks Ike pique, but isn't! It is a cool, comfortable affalr, sleeveless, and was designed for wear on the links or on the veranda of the country club. It. 1s made very like a tennis frock and has a pleated skirt, while the blouse above it is surplice style, making it most comfort- able for active sports | use. Zephyr 'and rayon are com- bined in the knitting, and the resultant narrow wale effect is charming. It is specially ate tractive in the shade known as cameo nile or cameo shell, but is to be had in white, maize and the pastels, 'and the pastels, Fashion in the Rumble Seat NAPPY roadsters and coupes 80 merrily along our high- ways, filled to overflowing with happy youth, and the rumble seat has become an institution. So much so that they are actually offering fashions for the one who rides in it. And it is all a part of the sun-worship that seems to be the fashion religion of the moment --there is no place where a tan will come more quickly than out on the broad highway in an open car. Sports togs are appropriate, but certain things belong rather more than others. The frock will be tennis type, and may be cotton or silk, of course. It will be eve- less and possess the approved sun-tan decolletage, that the sun may do its work well. But there will be times when a jacket will be welcome, moreover, there are still many who are not going in for this newest complexion fad, and they must be considered. There are some very clever sweaters--"shirts,"" if you prefer the name, and they come in white, in brown--so lovely with white, as maize, flesh, nile and blue. Many of these shirts are sleeveless, or have sleevelets that reach half way from shoulder to elbow. The neckline will be in accordance with thé corresponding line on the frock. These shirts are very finely knit or woven and fit beautifully. Hoslery will be of lisle, mesh hose in sunburn tint=-to match the complexion. And if - the rumble seat rider is an active sporiswoman she will wear anklets of silk or lisle--gay of color. Then there are coats of calico or cre- tonne, jackets really, quilted in the modern way. But some of these coats are long, that is, to the skirt edge. There may be a little hat to match the coat or jacket, and it will be quilted, too. Linen and pongee must be con- sidered in this respect, and acces- sories,. as the pocket-book, may be of linen or silk, embroidered. There are hats of ribbon, luggage hats they call them, that can be rolled into a very small affair and tucked into the pocket of the coat: The gypsy scarf is the approved rumble seat headdress--it comes in the pastels, as do the ribbon hats, and in gay colors, too. The scarf is worn on the beach or at the country club. DID YOU ENOW--- THAT you do not have to wear a sleeveless frock, if you feel' that it is unbecoming, nor do you have to resort to long sleeves? The tiny cap sleeve is now being of- fered as the smartest of them all, and you will see it everywhere that there are luncheons and daylight dinners. THAT bare leg stockings have teen introduced for the use of the woman who will not go stocking- less--and they are smarter by than bare legs? hey are seam- less, very sheer, fand fit the leg perfectly, no nfatter how many times you washfthem, for they are knitted that wap, THAT new ulierthings are made of something tRat looks like tulle, but is really glove silk? There is a mesh in a n@velty checked effect, and the garm@nt is very sheer {n- deed, Xou miy choose it in y J sleeveless and a gay head Lxumbla Tita Auer 1 Delightful Accessories a Part of Every Perfected Ensemble. No Matter What The Sport, Whether It Be Played In Or Out Of Doors, The Lady Of Fashion Will Look To Her Costume Details. Her Footwear, Hosiery, Handbag And Kerchief Will Be No More Correct Than Her Jewelry And Cosmetics HERE is an inclination to- ward extravagance in every- thing that has to do with dress. As we contemplate the advance models for fall we see that details grow increasingly im- portant in the mode, and a frock or a coat is likely to be only as good as its collar or sleeves. There is a hint of puffed sleeves, and coat sleeves specially incline to elaboration, fur a medium. Scarfs and bows and bands and tie ends appear, and the general trend is toward a sort of fussiness that does not work out that way at all. You will not be smart, if you are over elaborate, yet, if you study the frock that has every appear- ance of simplicity, you will find that it is anything but simple. The result of elaboration in clothes is seen In the accessory mode, and in an inverse ratio, for it becomes simple as clothes grow elaborate. Accessories Are Important No less care may be used in the choice of the needed detalls, though they may be less in num- ber. It only takes one to ruin an ensemble, whether there be a total of three or ten. Paris is gravely concerned' with the accessory mode, and insists that we take the same attitude, so it b im- perative that we keep ever in mind the types, the lines, the colors and the materials that must be carefully considered in completing a costume with details. You are given every aid in the selection of the necessary things by the manufacturers who cater to you. There is no excuse for shoes of an uninteresting or incorrect shade, for you can purchase the model you wish, in the material you wish, and have it dyed to the color you wish. Opera pumps come in crepe de chine or satin, already trimmed with silver or gold kid, and have heels of silver or gold--it only remains for you to choose the color for dyeing. Consider The Perfect Ensemble An evening costume that will prove perfection may be carried out in the soft green that has more than a hint of yellow im it, so much of the yellow that topaz ac- cessories will be in order. There will be couturiere jewelry of topaz and gold, with a hint of black in thre rondels that separate the beads. Small beads in many strands form the front of the plece, and there is a cascade of the small beads, the whole thing matched with a bracelet. Pumps of crepe de chine will be effective with this frock, the dullness of the former matching the dullness of the chiffon that makes the dress. They will be in the topaz shade, or they may match the frock, and hosiery will be the exact shade of sun-tan that matches the complexion of the wearer. There will be a large chiffon kerchief in the shade of the shoes and a bag of antique brocade. Be sure of the make-up and choose your foundation cream wisely. A Clever New Idea A recent display of evening frocks, completed with accessories that were 'le dernier cri" from the Parisian point of view, in- cluded printed chiffon frocks worn with two-colored slippers, back of one color and vamp of another, one matching the background of the frock itself, or both repeating two of the most prominent colors in the pattern. There is a very general trend toward the sun-tan shades in complementing hosiery --one matches her complexion. As a matter of fact, hosiery is dominated by these shades, no matter what one's costume. It is interesting to note the connection between jewelry and handbags, and between many other accessories, hitherto un-allled. The necklace of beads made of wood, lately ar- rived in the mode, is matched with a sports 44 that has wooden trimmings, both mountings and closings made of wood--it would be new to have a walnut mounted bag or one in mahogany! New Jewelry Fashions There is no diminution in the amount of costume jewelry that is offered, and much of it is new. Tiny beads in multiple strands are considered smart, and there are some attractive pleces in which enamel is used. Pearls are again in fashion, and there are strands as long as seventy-two inches, as well as the shorter strings that measure thirty or forty-five, A maize colored crepe de chine frock with low cut back, quite meal, scarf makes a colorful picture in the (|