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Se Hr7/AYL of LA Preparing a Welcome for the Fall Mode. -- |The Preferred Models of Em- Elegance and Sophistication Characterize Newest Fabrics Plain Materials Are Preferred To Printed, In The Early Showings, Although Are Shown. And There Will Be More Dull Finishes Than Lustrous, Al- though Satin Is Featured. Crepe Finishes Are The Choice Of Many Designers ~ = difficult to forcast, in a general way, what any summer or winter season will bring, when it comes to fabrics. You can prophecy the cottons, silks, linens and lightweight wools of the former, and the crepe silks, heav- fer wools and velvets of the latter with real assurance that your prophecy will be verified later on, yet there will be differences ap- parent if you attempt to compare the materials of one year with those of the year before. If you are contemplating a new frock, or suit, or coat, you may as well have the best that the season has to offer, the latest 'weave, the most alluring color, making use of the progress that is, inevitably, made. Hence we are interested In fall fabric displays, which are, already in full swing, and in those special materials that designers have chosen. There's the Matter of Finish Sometimes the popular weaves show a lustrous finish and again they incline to dull surfaces. Coat materials may run to deep-pile textiles, or they may be smooth and hard. And it must be remem- bered that finish may have much to do with the becomingness of a fabric, for the large woman will seem larger in a satin, smaller in a dull-surfaced crepe, It is neces- sary only Lo mention the results of prints as compared - with solid colors in effecting size. Summer always brings us a vogue of printed materials, for they seem to fitly usher in the spring. "Fall finds fewer of the patterned fabrics, and this is true of the new offer- ings. Solid colors provide a relief from the monotony of designs, both large and small, just as those same designs gave us a welcome variety after a winter of plain colors. Meeting Daytime Needs During the daylight hours varl- ous activities determine the neces- sary fabrics. Sports, travel, shop- ping excursions, semi-formal and formal afternoon affairs make a wide varicty of materials impera- tive. One may not shop in the outfit that attends a formal bridge, nor may she wear the town suit to the afternoon occasion. So silks and crepes, velvets and ghiffons, even the laces, vie with wools for attention through the hours of a T is no busy day. Beginning with these same wools we make mention of 'tweed, first, of all, for it 1s a leader in this group. There are many weaves, in! many colors, and they range from the sheer; lace - work tweeds to those that are used for utility coats, Then we have jersey, an old fav- orite, in new guises, covert cloth, reps and broadcloth, and the wool crepes. .Deep-pile fabrics are used for sports coats, smooth - surfaced materials for dressier models. Both Silks Are Somewhat Different There is a decided preference shown for the ribbed silks, and this means crepes with a ribbed sur- face as well as the familiar failles and bengalines. Faille is given a prominent place, and all of these silks are shown in both plain col- ors and prints. One can live the day in silk of some sort, for it is approved for town wear with cloth, and is a leader in the afternoon mode, It is, then, classed with the luxury material group. Satins, the moire silks and velvet are mentioned for special attention in the more formal afternoon mode. Winter always brings us velvet, and wheme we favored transparent velvet a season or two ago, 'we are now offered panne velvet, of great luxury and beauty. It also enters into formal evening fashions. Chif- fon and Georgette are bound to be represented for they are so usable and so graceful that they simply cannot be definitely discarded. Evening Fabrics Have "Body" We have associated taffeta, moire and the less well-known peau de sole with bouffant effects for so long that it is very difficult to imagine them in the newest silhouette, which is a thing of drapings and swathings, length of line and grace of movement, rather than the fa- miliar period lines. But this seems to be the thought in the designer's mind as she conceives her fall of- ferings. We must accept the molded bodice and the molded hip- line. When it comes to color, brown is. once again, in the lead. It is really a winter color, and is, to the person who can wear it, what blue is to the person who cannot. Red Is in favor, and Is offered by many couturieres in preference to green, although green is much used. Nor may we forget black, always smart, or purple, provided for her who finds it attractive. Pastels appear in the evening and vivid shades of the usual colors. Main Group (reading from left to right 4 velvets, printed in varied colors will be smart for afternoon wear. contrasting color running diagonally through it. WILL HE all-fur coat may not ap- peal to you, yét you may wish its warmth, and you are al- ready visualizing the days when soft fur will be a welcome fabric, for fabric it has come to be. In the advance fashion sales that are featured all through the fall there is a generous showing of cloth coats lined with supple pelts that are beautiful, novel and smart. And these coats include not only the sports type, but models that. are, very plainly, meant for dress wear. The material of the coat {itself is tweed oftener than any other one fabric, for the worth of this lovely stuff is well established. But it has a rival In kashmir and many N 2D SAS SA Ra 0 DS SX PR a coat of stenciled kid and tweed for town or country weag, IT BE A FUR-LINED COAT? with the coat fabric and with its | color being of the utmost of the soft, suede-finished woolens that are a part of the coat mode. There are broadcloth coats, and when this material is the choice there is a luxury of appearance that is most welcome. The richer trimming furs are used in com-| bination with the more luxurious fabrics. | For the lining is not the only! use made of this material, and | two different furs are used, since] collars and cuffs are often made] of long-halred pelts, which are, | obviously, quite out of the ques-| tion for an inner fabric. Thgq choice | of.lining fur depends somewhat on | the color of the coat itself, for| striking effects are worked out and | many clever color contrasts. As] a rule the darker colors are the; choice for the cloth of the gar- ment itself. Brown; in some one of its many shades, is a favorite, and,the beiges are approved. No color list is ever complete without black, and blue, green, gray and red are rep- resented. It simply happens that there are more coats in the neu- trals, as tan, brown and beige, than in other colors. For lining uses certain furs seems to be preferred, and probably the one that is most generally used is stenciled kid. It works out very effectively. Dyed rabbit fur is another fea- tured skin, but nothing is smarter than the kid. Of course, the sleeves of the garment are lined with silk that there may be no great bulk, and they are, as a rule, interlined for warmth. Trimming furs are carefully selected to harmonize | i -" -, Wr ir oS Lg » ~~ Beil They Prepare Us For E realize little, or nothing, of the thought that goes! into the making of a mode. | In the mind of the design-{ inite purpose, and {it is their lite | eyes. They are always feeling thé pulse of the buying public, offering something new, in line with that definite purpose, and waiting its re- fusal or acceptance before proceed- ing further. If one is at all quiz- zical, it is quite possible to trace the progress of the silhouette from the straight, ugly lines of war days to the flowing, graceful "stream- lines" of the new models, offered right now for early fall wear. | ment, | tained. | rectly cut model that embodies the Tracing It; she would find that it has been a matter of slow develop- a carefully thought-out, gropingly felt-out advance toward the Infinitely satisfactory end at- The New "Streamline" Silhouette There is true beauty in the cor- approved silhouette for fall, that i{s,. the silhouette approved by de- signers and offered, hopefully, for our approval. General opinion seems to be that they need have no fear of its rejection, for it em- bodies details that assure {its be- comingness to many women who have had to combat lines anything but appropriate, that is, if those lines were accepted exactly as they were drawn, On the other hand, there is one trend in this newest silhouette that simply cannot be accepted by the! vast majority of women, so the' scales maintain their balante: But. as an entirety it is quite the love-: liest, most sophisticated, most! graceful silhouette that we have] had for many seasons, for one] characteristic, length of line, can-| not but bring about this result. We may even add that itije' riot a straight, 'but a molded idength of Tine. 4 Hemline And Waistline' THé 'one detail that brings hap- ' : x | )--Printed taffeta with a faille weave is a new fabric for the evening mode. Transparent | Another new and smart version of jersey shows a tweed stripe of | | well below the bend of the knee, piness to many women is the very definite hemline, lower in every type of frock than it has been for many seasons. Sports things are lining, importance, and the suitability of sidered. Fox fur remains the out- standing favorite. fur to purpose an item to be con- | | HEN everything else falls, and sometimes when it does not, designers return to Spain and adopt the age- old, yet ever new loveliness of this | land of sunshine and Senosies} ! A straight brim sailor shows the Spanish influence. | nothing more charming, The actual styles that emanate from Spain are not, in the main, | low the brim is typical. general styles, although some are | amusing little berets or tams are who | loaned us for sartorial treats by But Span-| the Toreador. the wishes to adopt them. prerogative of anyone ish influence is so important in the | newly-forming mode that it is im-| frock mode where the detall of the perative that we make a study of it. | p10 oo found. A delightful model We may not realize it, but lace is a Spanish custom. We do not adopt the charming headdress of this fabric, for it is a type fashion, and the dark beauty of Spain is imperative to its success. But we are wearing lace and a very great deal of it, using it both as a fabric and as a trimming. and there is perhaps we might say as charming as the evening frock made of lace, or the one that combines lace with an- other material. Color is another gift from Spain, and the brilliant reds and yellows that we find embodied in the new fashions are stock in trade in that land. Brocades that make one of these colors the background, over- laid with metallic threads, are much in favor, and the nuances of the yellow - orange - red color range are brought into millinery offerings and the other accessories that are so important. We also find the Spanish influence in mll- inery. From this land comes the sajlor hat, and a version of the tam-o- shanter. The wide, straight-brim- med sailor shape is to be found in a modified style, and we are seeing a very great deal of the under-the- brim trimming, prom-poms espe- cially, that is also Spanish, A hat of black felt or velvet with orange NEW COSTUME ACCESSORIES HE new costume will demand the correct hat, footwear, handbag, hosiery and gloves, of that we are certain, but just what their type will be we have yet to learn. Remains the lesser details of costume jewelry, artificial flowers, scarfs and ker- chiefs, all of them problematical as a part of the costume, yet rea- sonably sure. They often skip a season just to teach us how really important they are in obtaining effective results for the wearer. Headwear and footwear are of prime importance. It would seem that the former is to continue the theme of off-the-face lines, and abetted by down-at-the-sides and back oddities. Berets and turbans are in great favor in the new col- lections, and there is a generous showing of the always welcome cloche, the one resort of the woman who may not wear off-the- face models. The evening turban will continue an important feature of the hat mode, Footwear looks to the frock for| already become a classic. its inspiration, and while the Ox- ford will still be the approved] three classes, sports, daytime, eve- | ning, and. just the right piece or sports shoe and pumps a favorite for daytime, especially afternoon wear, trimmings will repeat the lines of a fashion as applied to good bit, and pendants will fit into of | the daytime mode, and evening will and there is an 'attempt; bring out the longer, more elab- garments, Straps are good, course, being made to popularize the lower | orate pieces. | pearls, erystals in combination for tical fabries and black leads In the sports; quite the same, with enamel, heel. Suede and kid are the prac- color range. But there will be a wide assortment of colors. Handbags will run true to type gloves and hosiery, your shoes and in lines, materials and colors, the! handbag, and whenever this is pos- same sharp division existing be- tween sports, town or country wear, afternoon and evening styles. Calf, lizard and novelty wool ma- terials in swagger types are ap- proved for sports; pouches and envelopes in antelope leather, vel- vet and the finer fabrics for after- noon; bags are offered for the formal eve- ning ensemble, the seed pearl bags | and brocade and jeweled very slight dividing line between | Costume jewelry keeps to the pieces seems to be the fundamental idea. Chokers for sports, necklaces of several strands, longer by a Metals, compositions, for day wear: stones for evening. It is quite smart to match your sible, it is quite safe. Slip-ons are approved for both sports and day- time wear, and the long glove for evening, for it is again correct to complete the formal costume with very long gloves and the less for- mal outfit with shorter gloves. In the slip-on class there is only a the gloves for sports and those, for dress. Doeskin may be the choice for sports or for daytime wear--in a general way sports fashions are daytime fashions, and chamols is strictly sports, while cape Is a street choice. With - afternoon clothes the longer slip-on, or mous- quetaire is the choice, and the ma- terial is suede or glace kid, the former greatly to be preferred. Evening is the exception to the glove - hosiery rule, for evening gloves' are preferably white, and hosiery never! ' Sports hosiery, that is, for the active sportswoman, is the sheer silk stocking worn with a darker ankle sock, somewhat of the shoe color, but topped with a 'gay cuff that links it to the costume. Spec- tator sports costumes call for a somewhat heavier, more individu- ually colored stocking. Afternoon brings out the sheer chiffon and evening the ultra-sheer chiffon type, and the trend is toward the panel or the square .heel, rather than IN THE MANNER OF SPAIN pom-poms, one above and one he- And the Another influence. is felt in the of sheer velvet, an approved fall fabric, has a skirt of the fabric, a blouse of metal tissue and an adorable little bolero jacket of the | velvet. The blouse is tuck-in. For | the formal 'coiffure there is the| high-back comb and the fan of lace--stock-in-trade of the Spanish Senorita, and there are pleces of jewelry in antique gold set with red and black stones. task to get us to see with thelr | inent Designers Being Shown A New And Interest- ing Silhouette And A Mass Of Detail That Is Sure To Intrigue. Yet Simplicity Of Effect Is Not Lacking, Although Elaboration Is The Watch- word. Skirt Length Is Important at least four inches, which means four inches of utter becomingness. The approved afternoon length is even longer, and evening dresses ers of our fashions there is a def-|are still longer, touching the ground, at times, in Lack: Incidentally, the afternoon hemline is more regula? ' There is unhappiness for many ~ in the uplifted waistline. But, it~ You note carefully, you will find that the idea has advanced no fur- ther than a sort of formal recog- nition of this line. It is not al- ways definitely marked, but when * a belt proves becoming, if placed at the normal waist, it is consid- ° ered ultra-smart. There are still many models with a lowered- line, many of them marked with a belt, and in some Instances there is'a blouse above the belt line. i Certain Themes Arc Featured The ensemble is stressed, all in the interest of smartness and the harmony that has become a fun- damental. The suit continues its popularity, and there will be even more of the skirt-jacket-blouse out- fits than there have ever been, but the three-quarters length coat .is approved and the seven - eights' length model, as well. In the longer coats we agaln note the in- fluence of the new silhouette, the molded lines reminding of the prin- _ cesse silhouette. : Our first thought, as cold weather approaches, is the coat, and it may' well be given first place in the wardrobe, for it is the necessary background against which the ern- semble is built. 'The straight line coat still holds its popularity, "for it is the really conservative «choice; with the slightly flared model attracting some attention. The straight coat is worn over the frock the flares, since the soft ness of fabrics makes them fall straightly. rn 4 The New Foundation Garment The princess idea is effecting the corset which is, preferably, the type that fastens on the side. Jt possesses molded lines, and one sees more than a mere suggestion of 'the princesse idea .in its lines. The waist is rounded in, and one suspects the presence of bones.to achieve this effect. One thing must be borne in mind, When there is an element of "fit" to the frogk,. there must be a corset that fits smoothly without trace of wrinkle or fastening. Lingerie is almost. as important as the corset, and the newest gar- ments are molded in.the manner of the newest silhouette. The gar- ment will make a firm basis for the frock, and it will lack anything, of fussiness. Tallored types are offered, but they come in the most exquisite materials and are adorned with hand work, so that the result is a combination of the simplicity of a tailored model and the ex- quisite feminity that is character- istic of the mode. 2 ---- Embroideries are in again and the blouse of the frock, or the - coat for the dress of plain material,' or the long coat of silk crepe will be embroidered in tiny flowers birds or sports motifs. "'® the pointed. __A-dainty. bolezo jacket.gives a 'Spanish aie to this velverfracly.