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-- J. oF SAS LITO " ee Fall Themes Distinguish the New That Will Become a Part of the Present Mode Appear 4 here 1s News About Bri And Lines In General, As Well As New Crowns i Ideas That Have To Do With Colors And Fabrics. The Spanish Influ- ence Is Apparent In Of The Smartest Immediate Fashions ALL things are making thelr appearances in the shops. Dis- play windows feature prac. tically no summer hats, except those that are offered at tempting prices for immediate sale. While the actual fabrics of winter are not offered to the exclusion of others, the bestween-season idea brings them into combination with the straws of summer, and there is rather more of winter than of fall in thefr aspect. The hat of fabric, as satin or grosgrain, is in its hey- 'day, and felts take new ideas to attract attention to themselves, It is quite safe to say, that the mil- Hnery purchase of the moment will never see the winter season, per- haps it will not live through the fall, so one is safe in the novelty combination, whether it be ma- terials, colors or ideas. Shadows, however, predict coming modes. Choosing Your Fabric It is a foregone conclusion that velvet and felt will lead the winter millinery mode. But with these fabrics we may consider others, for the time being, that will hard- 17 be featured after spow has come. Satin and straw, felt and steaw, grosgrain and straw, even velvet and straw are being shown --and worn! Off-the:face, or vather off - the - forehead models sshm to like this combination of materials for their special pur- pose. Incidentally, all of the smartest Paris hats expose the forehead, but follow the down-in-the-neck sil. houstte. They are youthful, but, as you will realize, somewhat try- ing. The ube of felt and soleil is noted In models that have a wide side brim and the fisherman's line in back, and there are caps-- rather Sceteh in their feeling, of tweed or felt. The small, cluse hat, that is very like a cap, is an apparent favorite with designers. For Between-Scason Use With a thought for the brimless hat that will surely be a feature of the new mode, and a lingering loyalty to the large hat that ls sumnier's special favorite, the shops are offering high-colored felts with a medium brim, the lat- ter an accepted line of the present seagon. Or summer {is further con- sldered In a medium-brimmed hat with trimming of satin--a simple afair that {s amazingly lovely of line, 'and trimmed only with bows. A novel idea is developed from the bandanna that Is so popular for sports wear. and the hat of black satin that results has the material tied in the back in exact- ly the manner of the kerchief, the ends falling over the neck. An- other novelty is a brimless, draped or folded affair of fishnet, cool on the head and rather dainty In its appearance, the hair showing through the coarse meshes of the net, It's a summer fancy for wear right now. Velvet "Arrives, And Velveteen There are all-velvet hats, and this fabric varies in weight and texture according to its purpoése. Velveteen, the step.sister of the velvet family, is made into ador- able sports models, and they come in lovely colorings. Then there are hats of the transparent velvet that serves us so well for coats, and they are planned for wear with the afternoon frock, comple. menting chiffon perfectly, Berets are offered in either velvet or vel. veteen, Some of the models make so much of the wide back brim, which is known as the down.in-the-neck silhouette, that they seem almost out of balance. A round crown, brimiess down to the ears, sudden. ly acquires a really broad brim, so that the hat, If it were reversed, would look not unlike a jockey's cap. Buch a hat was offered in a smart specialty shop, and its fabric was satin antique. ' One imagines this radical silhouette will be de. cidedly modified later on. The Smart Nose Vell The small, brimless hat, really nothing but a cap, is worn with a veil, a chic, brief affair that fust covers the nose. The hat itself is of the utmost simplicity, perfection as to line, and there is today, as there ever was, something attract. ive about a vell. Some of the shops go so far as to offer the longer, loose veil, worn on one of the hats that have the short, off. the-forehead and long, down-in- the-neck silhouette. They will bear watching, The idea of a hat for wear with dinner frocks is gaining in popu. larity, These models are very small, very sheer, very dainty and very smart. They have vells, many of them, and they sha te tention with the new Spans! theme in millinery that results in shallow crowns and rather broad, straight brims that place thelr trimming underneath, * You would wear such a hat tipstilted at an engaging angle. It might be black =-such a hat, for smartness. The Gown of the Week It is a white evening frock, very formal indeed, and it is the smartest, both in color and line, that couturieres have of- | fered in many weeks. Its ma- terial is satin, and it has more than a suggestion of talloring, for it trims itself and that in a rather meager way. The Lodice is severely plain, and the decolletage In back is U-shaped. very low, in the sun-tan way, The skirt fis short in front, cut to ripple, and ends in a fish-tail train, rather long. Since white is the very newest color for eve- ning, the wrap that is worn with this frock is a gorgeous affair cof silvery white lame, and white satin slippers are the footwear choice, But the hoslery choice is sun-tan, to match the complexion of the wearer. ---- a veil arrangement of net. We must adopt the idea of the dinner hat, planned for wear with the dinner frock. The center hat is a e felt, with brown grosgrain ribbon its trimming. tion affair of black felt and black velvet--all three fall models. Such a hat, of draped black c! de chine, has The third is a combina- HAT is the modern term for the in-between period that arrives early in the young girl's' teens, the time when she isn't, really, but would be "out" 'in society. And she is a replica of her debutante sister, wearing sports. togs, her dance frocks and her afternoon attire just as correctly and smartly as she ever will. Young folks acquire a grown-up manner of doing things very early in life, these ays. i al the fundamentals of fashion interest her, and she goes in for sports with a verve that older people envy. She chooses for her swimming hour a jersey swim- sult in some gay color, and it will be the type that has attached trunks, It may have a string belt and small bows to mdke it a bit more festive. She will have a jérsey cape, or a coat of Terry cloth," and it will be cut along the swankiest lines possible, Perhaps she will go to camp for a bit of outdoor life, but whether she does or does not, she may ride, and she will be far less formal than her older sister thinks she should be, but she will be none the less correct. Her riding breeches will be of khaki, the dependable, and she will wear a colored broad- cloth shirt, pocketed and low of neck. Her head gear will be the fashionable and comfortable beret, She will certainly find some use in her busy day for an overall out- fit of bright-hued linen, and she will wear a huge, floppy rough straw hat with it. Or she may like RIDING TOGS GROW SMARTER HERE are several reasons for the definite change that has taken place in the spirit of the clothes that the smart woman wears when riding. No ohe will deny that medern clothes in general are being freed from tpadition, restraint, and the false modesty that for so. many cen- 'turjes ruled them. Summer fash- fons are making trousers an im- portant garment, and the new flair for 'dude ranching" is bringing riding togs into a limelight. And results are varied. Some still cling to the old-type tailored "habit," that is a thing of meticu- lous neatness, correct only when its accessories are in exaét accord with the strict code laid down for such things. Others have adopted jodphurs, wearing with them gay sleeveless jackets of flannel, a felt hat that matches the jacket, and a short-sleeved shirt, Then, to very bright Informal flannel vest, brown also. riding costume of twill jodphur, broadcloth coat, red brown spotted tie and brown felt slouch hat. "Boot is make the balance complete, some have gone back to the old-time side saddle. When the tailored sult is the cholce, the coat and breeches may match, or the breeches may be in a lighter color. Regulation boots, shirts, ties and hats are parts of these outfits, which may be of linen during the warmer weather. Real formality calls for a derby hat, but soft shirts permit the felt hat, soft also. But the slender woman and the girl will find that thers is nothing quite as swanky as the jodphur outfit--or as come fortable, The jodphurs may be of duck or linen, and the shirts will be soft silk, beautifully colored, or it may be white and worn with a bright Jacket and hat---always a soft hat for this costume, - And the jédphur shoe, of course, much cooler than régulation' boots. There may be a coat of the duck or linen, regu- lation, of course, if you would .| make concession to formality. The side-saddle habit is conserve ative, one might gay ultra-con- servative, for it is made up of a wrapped skirt--much ghorter than in the hey.day of its popularity, and a coat that fs quite masculine in its manner. Black, brown and gray are the approved colors, and then there are the regulation rid ing boots, the stock of tradition, and a derby or real old-time "topper." ' Dude ranching calle for a moat practical outfit, and s6 we have trousers in a sturdy fabric, flannel shirts, or dt least woolen ones of some sort, very gay neckerchiefs and gay felt hats--many of them sombrero type. Laced boots for this outfit, if you please, and every. thing distinctly "Western." One sometimes wonders if all of the outfits Jn this spirit are really going West! When She is "Sub-Deb" Age to be nautical, wearing a gob's outfit, even to the hat, of white duck or lnen. There is a won. derful opportunity for her to sat. isfy her imagination in some one of these pajama outfits, for they are exceedingly picturesque as well as practical and comfortable. When she {s playing tennis or golf she will have her sun+<back dresses, quite sleéveléss, and madé of linen, silk or some approved fabric. These frocks may run the yrange of the pastels, but will in. clude several in white. There will be a complement of Jackets, so that the correct coat will always -- A chiffon frock in two tones of blue with a deep cape collar is equally as good for early evening or late afternoon. be available. There are adorable little stitched hats, and one jacket, quilted, is. matched by a hat that is qulited also. She will. have printed silk frocks for town .weéar, rather informal, yet with a bit of formality, and there will: be a .chiffon frock for the early evening or lite afternoon affair. And when it is really a formal evaning affair, she will have a youthful little dréss of chiffon, very rufily, and aver it she will wear a wrap of trahsparent velvet. ; DID YOU KNOW THAT one of the smartest ideas for the sports ensemble features a frock in a pastel ghade or In the favored eggshell hue, and cos- tuie Jewelry in some brilliant color. Bare Necessities of Fashion HE winter resort mode stressed something entirely new in the history of fashion--the sun- tan idea. It has revolutionized everything that has to do with our appearance, starting with the complexion and ending with the lines of the silhouette. It is Wwe imagine, responsible for the new cogmetics that are lavender and green and violet--=for it directed the attention of chemists to this element in Milady's make-up, To be smart you must be sun- tanned. It is not necessary to sit hours in the sun and acquire the recessary color----you may acquire a painful sun-burn instead, for thére are lamps and powders and lotions to counterfeit the fashion- able hue. But with this com- plexion have come the various things that complement it and make it possible, if we are de- pending on the sun. We have accepted the sleeveless trotk very happily, for it is a most comfortable garment. It is even smarter when it has a sun-tan back, which means a very deep decolletage. And you may not neg- lect the underg@rments to be worn with an ensemble of this type, for they must follow the same general lines, and be exceedingly brief. Many of the sleeviess frocks have panties that are a part of the frock itself, buttening to it. It depends 2 bit upon the beauty of the arm---or it should-just A printed frock for street wear gaing formality by the addition of 2 how completely sleeveless the frock is. It need not be too com- pletely all-revealing, for there are little cap sleeves and there are bertha collars that come down over the upper arm in a very helpful way. And with the sleeveless, sun- tan frock you must wear jewelry-- of wood or enameled metal, and there will be a necklace and sev- eral bracelets in different colors. There are new turbans--bare. headed affairs, that are simply strips of material wound around the head. Or it may be a Windsor tie, or a handkerchief of batiste or silk that is used to wrap the head. The bare.legged look may be obtained by just the right shade of hoslery----or there may be no stockings, just roll ellk socks in any color you wish. And the foot. 'wear will be sandal type, made of Jinen and dyed any color you pre- er. Millinery Mode » It Must Be Your Very Own; the Hat That You Finally Select It Will Be Correct For Both Face And Fig. ure, Accenting Good Points And Conceal- Defects. And It Will Become A Part in 5 The Ensemble With Which It Is Worn, Complementing It In Type, As Well As In Color And Fabric ERTAIN things have to do with one's appearance, even the alr of good grooming that is really imperative, if one is to be truly smart. The old-time idea that a woman was well. dressed, if her gloves and foot- wear were perfection, was really the starting point of the accessory theme that is 8 fundmental today. Costume details include hats, shoes, hosiery, handbags, hand- wear and the kerchief or scarf. Of them all the hat is most im- portant. Time was when the hat was chosen for itself and one spoke of it as a thing apart, calling it smart or beautiful, or both, but its becomingness was little considered. Today a hat must be smart and becoming, although off the head it may seem little more than a rag of a thing, that is, in appearance, although its lines and trimming have been most cunningly devised. Hats Are Individual The hat of today is a thing of individuality, and this fact must never be forgotten. It is for this very reason that the right hat for your purpose, and for you, will prove a tonic more potent than drugs, serving as sure relief to ennui. It heartens the costume as well as the spirit, and a different model, in a color that permits a change of accessories, will make the sult that you have wearied of a vital part of your wardrobe, thus proving an economy. Once you have chosen a hat you cannot forget it for an instant, for it seems to be always facing you, in the chance mirror, in the glass of a swinging door, and what is more of a criterion, in the eyes of your friends. When they ask "Who is your milliner?" then you are sure that you have chosen wisely. It is the ome article of appare] that can change one's ap- pearance unbelievably, and small ratio of hats with brims is grow- ing fast. The brief period of the brimless hat was a trying one, for it was featured as an ultra smart style, yet many a woman wimply could not wear these trying lines, and she did not have to be very critical of it or herself to find it out. An unlined face, a good pro- file, and more than a hint of roundness are requisites for the turban, beret or helmet. ¥ Brims A General Favorite More women require a brim than do not, for it does more than shade tired eyes, or offset the ' glasses that must be worn. It will widen a too thin face, which is better for a brim narrow in fromt and a bit wider on the sides. And right here it may be well to offer the general suggestion that you keep to a certain style of hat, after you have proven its sure be- comingness. It should be a matter . of time and thought, making the original selection. Keeping to the one type, pou can vary material, trimming, color, making each hat a part of the costume it complements, yet you will always be assured of becom- ingness. A sports type, an after- noon type, and, if you have need of it, the hat that goes out of an evening. The latter will be some what frivolous, a thing of soft, filmy fabric, as net or lace, and it is best when sophisticated black. But all three types may have many of the same characteristics. The Question Of Hatr ; Beware of the hat that shows ne! hair in the same way that you ard cautious of the hat without a brim, for it is trying. There are so many models that permit you te show the hair that there Is no excuse for this quality of unbecom« 1 any more than any other. as it is, 1 more defects than anything else. You Must Study Yourself Before you choose the hat for your newest ensemble, study your- sel!. Not merely the lines of the hat, but the outline of your face, the color of your eyes and of your hair, for they are all factors in determining the line and color of the hat. So, too are your shoulder line, your neckline, and your entire silhouette. Amd bear in mind, when making your selection, the purpose of the hat, not to mention the frock itself, which may be simple, gay or severe. There are, probably, as many brimless models as ever, but the You can thin your face with the right brim, or you can make fit plumper, and you can find & hat that will add a great deal to your attractiveness by permitting your hair to play a part. Consider the colors that are your most becoming omnes, when choosing your hats, and in doing this, consider the color of your eyes. A corresponding color makes the eyes seem larger, and their color deeper. There will be a connection between the costume and the hat, of course, but if you buy wisely, the color of your eyes will have much to do with the colors that rule your wardrobe. So--always remember--line and color, in relation to yourself. WICE a year we are reminded of the clearance sales that are going on in all of the large, and many of the smaller shops, sales that must be taken advantage of when they are in progress, and about which there may be no procrastination. Some- times we disregard them, or put off planning for them until it is too late, and {n this manner we actual. ly spend money, when needs arise, that we might have saved. These opportunities are golden ones. The sales themselves are but a | logical part of the general mer. | chandising plan. In every store | there will be found goods that is {a bit selled or untidy from hand- ling, or from remaining on the When Sale Time Comes Again shelves, and there are always left- overs from the season's stock. It behooves the merchant to move these goods, getting a small profit, even none at all, to make way for fresh goods and for the latest offer- ings of a fashion that is nothing if not fickle. Bo twice a year, in late mid- summer and late mid-winter, these sales are featured, and at them you may buy many things at a substan. tial saving, some of them ready for use, while others, as linen or lingerie, need only a tubbing to restore them to their original freshness. Many women plan their budget to include the advantages offered by August and February reductions, and it is an excellent idea, restocking every possible need during these months. The so-called "White Sales," ine clude all types of household linens, from dish toweling to rare em- broideries and laces, and all types of lingerie, few of them originally white, and many that were solled in display. One's linen closet and lingerie wardrobe can be stocked for six months to come, and money saved toward some dreamed-.of luxury by so doing. And it is the same with h hold equip t and with furniture of all descrip- tions. This is the time of the year to have your furs remodeled, and to obtain a fur coat at a reduced price, nor need you fear that the - coat is not styled correctly for the coming season, for it will be. Study your favorite news sheet in the in- terests of your household budget! E use the term '"tallored" with reservations, for the new dressmaker influence | has now effected it consid- erably, But there are still women who find the trimness, severity and impeccability associated with this mode most desirable, and so we | suggest a perfect costume in this | spirit. Everything must be given | hon consideration, not only in rela- | | IN TAILORED ARRAY | tion to the finished ensemble, but | the individual parts. | There is real art {in assembling such a costume, which will begin with a cloth sult, three, or even four piece, inclining to slender, straight lines, though not averse to a cape, or pleats, or a discreet flare in the skirt silhouette, If it is a separate skirt and blouse ar. rangement, one may indulge in a model for the latter that has ap- proved dressmaker details, lending the necessary touch of femininity to the whole. Next in importance, of course, would be headwear and footwear. The hat may well be of felt, and it will, it it is quite up-to-date, have a medium brim. Its trim. ming will be tailored, of grosgrain ribbon, though there may be a pom-pom or two, or a tricky feather, You will find that the new brimmed hata are, almost without exception, becoming, and they are an answer to a universal demand for the brims that have been missing lately, : Footwear inclines away from "the Oxford, which is a classic, to the pump, another classle, but both are correct. Some of the new pumps in dull kid have a buckle "Fant. farmed hv narraw hande of appliqued leather. With these pumps chiffon hose are worn, and sun-tan {s an approved neutral color--~there are, as you probably know, many shades of this newest tint, made popular by the vogue for sun-tanned complexions. For the necessary gloves there is nothing more appropriate than washable suede, and the type is pull-on. It is considered smart to match hosiery and gloves, and you will find a wide range of sun-tan shades in handwear. The handbag is tailored, a modified pouch with a flap like an envelope, and a concealed frame, a suggestion. It may match the shoes. Jewelry would be a choker necklace, Oriental, heavy, stunning, Accessories for the tailored suit might be brown felt hat, brown suede pumps and a of the Beige shades wallow ia ould match. uch bag to match. Gloves and hose in one Choker and earrings of green of a civa a faminina tninla