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27e pA of fA 77/0Y Be rg FIRST AID TO OUR WINTE Fur Coats for Sports, Afternoon and Evening Wear Are Very Lovely They Are Daing | Soft, Thin Skins vite As Much With The f Animals As They Are With Fabries. The Coat Of Fur Is Lined With Wool And The Frock Is Made Of The Same Material As The Linin Fur Jacket fo The Short n Vogue CCl anitsnr VERY winter we are Intros duced ta a long lst of amas. ingly attractive new furs, eall~ utility marments, and they are fashioned from skins that will give service, If possible, hut less stress ed hy names that remind us 1a laid on the durability of the fur of no animal at all, but must have clothed one just the same, There seems to be a fad for Intriguing names, brought about, undoubts edly, hy the reaction to them, And surely "lapin" will lure one financial Indigeretions mueh more gulekly than "pahbit" they are ane and the same! this winter we are Intrigued with more than the furs and names, for we are to enjoy the' grace and heauty of the 1080 alls heustte In our fur coats, and the smartness and charm of the jacket mode In little short coats of fur All of tha elever details of line, fit and fnish are embodied In the models that are heginning to ap» pear, If there be any excuse for them, along the husy avenues of fashion everywhere The New Silhouette If furs were as hulky as In days of yore the present-moment sll» houette would he quite Impossible, But they are dressed down to a workable thinness and softness, so that they are used In Intricate treatments with mdeh success that cloth attains, Width at the hemline, achieved through | flares, and the grace of melded lines ealls for skill in handling the skins, for there must remain the appearance of slender grace that is the essence of the mode, The sking are out and pleced tas gether again In the mest Intricate fashion, and godets and fares are pessible, even with the slenderness the prevalling char adteristle We nate the huge eals lars and the sleeve treatments that are #0 unusual, yet seam A of the general luxupriousness of auter wraps, Cambined with the benuty of the furs themselves, oy talls camplete the pleture that lines succeed in drawing, Individuality 18 the result, Typos Arve Considered The plassification af the various types 18 given a great deal of eon sideration, Hports coats are just what they ave called, practical, Ae part! | | mality, | line, although | Jacket, But thelr | than farmerly, Mention 1s made of lapin, goat skin, nutria, beaver, kidakin, shaved lamh and sheared panther, all of which fit Into the scheme perfectly, to | Bports coats are simpler of line, They Include In thelr variety the the three-quarters length cont, and the ope that Is knees length, and they use more straight lines than the afternoon or formal coat, Por we ¢ling to tallored things through the medium of stralght lines, replacing talloved detalls with dressmaker oddities, which means, Hterally, the femin. ising of the tallored mode, The brown range ia favored for sports conln, the deep hrown of the beaver considered smart, The Par Jnoket Ensemble There Is a deolded vogue for the jacket sult that combines fur with a woolen material, and the short fur jacket or the one that Is fins wer-tip length Is made quite as It {would he if the material was wool, the same desived | | shaved and detalls of belt, yoke, eravat, outs and eollar are painstakingly earried out, Bueh a Jacket Is worn with a dress of wool or of knit material to mateh the lining of the cont, The mult, very small, is an aocessary to the smariness of this ensemble Intrioaey of eut and of work: manship are featured In afternoon coats of fur, The short-halped furs are used, the familiar earacul, Persian lamb, broadtall, mole and sealskin Important Dye! lapin, lamb and beaver are ine eluded In tha lst, which ean he enlarged to Include all the works able short furs, Helge, the hrewns and hlaok ave favorites, and there Is oontrast Intraduced through the use af fox fur and lynx, dyed te harmonize with the coat fur Intricacy OF Line And Out The afternoon coat takes on fore and there are flares all the ar, at least, In same portion of the skirt of the coat, There 1a a semi-Atted silhouettes | and the hemline is Irregular, way round, Black diamond mesh net evening trimming (right), [1 mm swathed about the shoulders | harmony { onlor has came to rule aur homes, tor) no, Am or draped effeota | nehleving the same result The evening cant of tha mament Is noticeably short, helng either knee length or three-quarters, permits | ting the beauty of the swesping | skirt to show helow it Hywmine, | mink and hroadiall lead { Lapin 1a the season's featured | fur, If one may Judge at this early | date, Tt 1s usable and youthful, | and makes the all-oceasion cont | that many of us demand, Ohin ehilla-dyed lapin Is 'an evening favorite, Caracul and heaver are featured furs along with Persian | lamb and broadtall, and all of thes | aking are employed for trimming | purposes on fine coats, Peralan lamb on hroadeloth an sfteative pombination, Furs are used lavish» | ly on coats of eloth With theHome inMind BE ne longer look upon the word "ensemible" as a4 new Idea, rather we have adopts | od It an a synonym for avs erything that is carvect and smart In fashion, We buy our luggase in ensembles, and are, constantly, considering a purehase In relation to other purehases with gene! in mind, And Just as bringing eheer to dull raams, se the ensemble theme has ovept tate our ideas of house furnishings everywhere, Lat us consider, far the moment, the guest bedroom, and the pos shia effect that ean he oreated, | The calor scheme will ha bully | against the background of walla and furniture, and the ealar of the | former and the type of the latter will guide the choles of hangings And floor colorings and bedroom furnishings in general, It 1a quite possible, at this time, Ei ia a | | I | ta purchase hed furnishing en [ other and the entive autft planned | loss subtle enloy sembles, already assembled, that have heen harmonized for you In hath calor and the texture that is demanded hy type, You will find when you seek tham aut, that there are not only sheets and cases, hut blankets, eoygeriets, hedsproads and nlaght spreads, all planned for sach eli hi ll Bh bj) 1 A ) ' [iy | ly. i Zi for the roam that you have in mind solid combinations | Your he for a solid oaloy you have a eholoa of peach, rose, green, mold, arehid, Or you may prefer a subtle of green and orehid harmony groan and peach, or something In a onlars oF dealva may Ll] | oy Fue a ming and scarf match, Far is galyak, Indispensible! F you read your advertisements carefully, as you should, then you will note that any lst of APRroved colors will end with the words "and black!" This 1a merely an "also-ran" in the race for fashion supremacy, but an avowed leaden, for nothing smarter, and nine times aut of ten you will fad, in attempting to choose fram the melee of calor, that nothing a quite as swan, Fashion dtotatore the new seas son seem to think ARFway., The hack fraok ia conceded fret Ing out among the various hues that evening brings out as tha most elegant of them all, A recent fashion oritle of note | has Wade the statement that the mast important black fashion of | the season Ia the hlaok bhroadelath sai this statement, usury and sephiatioation, and hroadoloth ia an nt fable, We And 1 combined with vioh fur, the | latter elegant, toe, And there ia WAY he helpful to analyse | IN fea season of elally when we view fis practioality | of the vague FOr general Wee | ceedingly smart fashion EN A i? "| combined with net, It possesses more of the axotie feeling [ doalgnera love than any fable, And the black evening coat Is without doubly, the smarts oat ehalea of all, for aainst colors become mare heautital, The hlack coat is a olasslo, sapes Lin the wardrobe, BN cannat be bettered, and there Is no oolar that does net cambine satisfactorily with 1, Ones you | TR i \ (Left) A beaver sport jacket completes its ensemble make-up with a rust red woolen frock edged with beaver ives distinction to this three-quarter length coat of black caracul, Sand in the evening coat of blonde lapin that features long slim blouse and flared skirt, hiue ay) | ary a8 a trimming and accessorien is important, Here hat ne -- Always Becoming! fplave, | yi i 1 mid | getting what | Wetting, (Center) A cape (Right) The princesse line ix empha- | pombination, Heau and if you are a | It will ha pos | Up Yaur awn with sheets | And oases from a smart shag, ending with a hand-wronuht drap hellsproad LEE Indeed thay are clever neadlawoman aha for you to make onsemhle heginning and are rather sheets and sama soft Pastel-tanad 1inens hut fame In muslin OREBE NOW the and are well within the Him Comfortablos come in ax pensive tints ted budget onlors and ara covered sateen an you wish and wool hlan to he had, and spreads, and night type 'vy ve bedroom of whieh | tired hy ensemble the Yarious With satin oy Alswant ar cation Kets both day ne furnishing the means of a hed ft will hw thought and you have furnishing wall warth the time money expended The "The Frock of of the Week ANPeRTAnee al | a woelety fashion na New York and fe wltvasmodishness was the publect of mueh comment, 8IK net was the fabhelg, and we are told that this material ia the | vary amavtest possible for the formal evening rook IL was oven te the faor all the Way and Ha walatline was higher than navmal EY trimming suggested the Grecian onnslating, as it aid, of orossed bands above the waist and made shaw snant suburb, | one | round, around the hips, Ha onlop was ane of the new, rioh reds, and aver it the model wore an eve ning wrap of black panne vel vet, quite a mood hit shorter and draped In the approved caw! fashion, A fue drape of white arming followed the cowl nea and fnkahed a perfect eater symphony When | | -- VOALLY smart, In acoassorios, that | hiaek was smart hafare the ensem- other | Ble iden was nat the ruling theme af Hiaek gloves tmpartant everything tn fashion, [Are ane of tha most costume detalls, and the shont oufied smartly, the sheet Mack slip-on and the long black suede farmal stove ave all a pant suede anothey LL Afternoon hvings out the black suede actessery ensemble LATE specially lovely with black andl the A AIR tion About Back that hes! possess It, Your troubles are ended, [NOW hades of green and ved, lew place for daytime usea hy all of the | longs to ne other eatar, while the | for 11 I Informal oF formal as you | Paris canturiores, It a approved for street wear, far apora purposes, and far formal aftefmoon aocasions. In the fahrio sections we find suit a considered the hub of the fashion wheel, When evening comes the mode ARpeara at fia very best, We find | 1 need hy the fashions orepes, sating, velvels, - woolens, sitks, all for daytime wees, and vi there Is ne one whe is oblivious to the fot that hack In the west sophisticated evening colon, stand. SPatn, not only in Mae and eater hat in material, Iv, takes on added dignity when It In Diack and even when 1 W| of { Lace, always love: | wish, or as the froek and acoes { sorien worn with it assume formals fly or informality, Without fur ft is Informal, Bat a smart seart will bring It inte the strlotly formal class, | | 1 the smart ensemble oaler, av per haps we should say that black For the frst time In years hiaek | I attractive With hrown and blue, The camploted ensemble ia wade wp of lang stevens a handbag of suede and suede apera PUMPS, Re Strap siippars ar Oxfords, Antes lope suede 1s elegant and silky salt, and trimmings, as a clasp op APRAMARL. Way he of maroasite, Suede shoes may wear Kid ar Hea | trimmings, (he bag wmatohing, | | mink | lonst | doalrable for Ita purposes, | and even then the furvier [there are many, | tn COMFORT |Be Sure of the Real Name of the Fur You Buy, and Test Its Wearability The Art Of The Furrier Is A Fine Art, Now- adays, And Humble In The Interest Of Pelts Are Glorified Fashion, Origin Is Of Little Importdnce, But The Man Purse Demands On The ake Durability Imperative PF you are contemplating the purahase of a new fur cont you' Are, nine times out of ten, ahout to make the aequaintance of pelts that have been glorified hy the skill of the furrler Into a BAY ment lovely to look upon Hut the erigin of the pelts was & hum hie one, We are not an Interested In the whenea of the cont as the how's! How will It wear? How mueh will It oost? (Always re membering, of course, that the costly fur that wears a long time Ie not, In the end, as costly as it Appears to be) How will It sult my purposa? If thousands af rah hits are roland In Burope, and if | thelr skins are selentifioally (rented | and dyed (0 make fashionable contin, why worry that the rabbit is a humble animal? The worry Is Involved In coming to a eon clusion ahout the wearing qualities of the garment Value is the probe lem The O14, Bure Rule furs that are traditions, among them seal, sable, ermine, muskrat, heaver, mink and ohinohilin About these furs eer thin facts are known Mink Is onutly, hut wears Interminably, while ehinehilla and ermine, cost ly, ton, are fragile Muskrat Is a durable fur, and so Is heaver, while wen! Is costly and rare, hut gives service commensurate with its oosl From the group then, muskrat and beaver are the expensive aking One point must he stressed, If you ean afford ermine, ar ohin ohilla, or sable, and ean buy a fy | fur knewin that It Isl fy than the nothing te be wald But he sure that you are you think yeu are not a substitute Ita war: | ment Is marked "ohinehilla-dyed" then you will pay for the fur ltself vogardless of ita ecoloy But if It In marked as ohinehilla, make sure that It the rare little squirrel af that name Drab Little Animals Used Weonse! aking, ugly as oan be, useless for any Apparent purpase, are treated and colored for eve NINE Wraps Fitoh In dyed to res samble sable so olosely that only an expert ean tell the diNerancos It Is, then, just as lovely, even as | when the | knows that it is sable-dyed | And It is well to he sure that the fur you think mink | Ad not grow on a pralvie dog's | back and some te you from the | Basta Mongollan marmot There 1s a vogue far the lovely skins known as oaracul, Persian lamb and broadtall, but there are | not anough of them te mest the | steadily Increasing vogue for flat, ourly furs, so other kidskine are used, and goats and sheep of all Kinda that possess & ourl In thelr] hale have heen brought In to serves | 10s, Hometimes the our! Ia laoking, in not There are some renl huyer fitoh in ling stralght "the halr a Hewulls, not dlemayed, but gives permanent wave, methods, count, To Determine Value If you have set your heart upon A really wood fur goat, then there In one way of helng sure you get It neek the advices of a recognised dealer In furs, one whose gusrans tae In as good as a gold certinosts, Hueh a dealer will tell you the real name of the fur that is being seld under a trade-marked name, and give you an Iden of Its wearing qualities In relation to Its original cont, And such a dealer will ase sure you as to other things as well, The kind of pelts that have heen used, this eomes first, and after that, thelr wearing qualities, Ase surance that the pelts have heen carefully ehosen and matohed, and that the workmanship Is perfect must fallow. Only then should you consider the styling of the gare meant. And the latter consideration In more important, this year, than It has heen for many years back, for we have arrived at the sulminas tion point of many trends == the apex of a fashion oyele, Dating Your New Fur Coat If you may have a new coat, ov the old one made over, every wine ter, then you have no possible reas son to worry, But If yeu must wear the same coat several winters, then you have every reason to look askance at the upstesthesminute models on display at the pressnt time Width, achieved through flares and godets and flounces In averywhere seen Hut that very width marks the coat as belonging to the 1080 sithouette, for so the new outline is being called, Provision has heen made for the woman who must wear her cost another year, and there are enwage line models of beau» tiully worked skins, and ne one of them have features that depart from the necessary conservatism, The eheap fur or the ane that is made Inte én extrema model will not prove an eeonamy, Natural than ve hve AR eat: A, + i' ) pelts will prove hatter friends thar thesa comparatively new, Ln LJ PID YOU KNOW THAT with the return of fashion [to femininity we have many of the Fold trimming details that belonged | as far baok as the Vietorian age? new negligee of heavy, erepes back satin has ostrioh feather trims ming at the throat and wrists, the former following Lo the very hems | Hine THAT antly, to winter? walyak and has touches of fall, all sorta of color combinations, eapacially In the hrown range, They are designed for wear with fur or ar trimmed Q0RLE, ERE A the fur hat is, appar he vogue, this coming One model, of sleek hiaek snowswhite oameul, and there are Sweaters Are Important RANCH, England and #Sootland ¥ unite in an andeaver tn make | the sweater wardrobe of fashs| ton a perfected thing, It you ARpive | to diffeventiness you oan obtain a 'aneafsaskind" model of whieh] hut you will have it! In this type the trimmings---an & how-knot or Jabot, are knit Inte the garment, And two oF more colors are intros dueed, Even the belt is knit in, pay well fop {and the effect is ane of acourate| dotes on the cardighi, 'and and fatteping Mm Slipson "| these! Hngland knits odd motifs inte the garments she senda, an bhulld. ings, landsoapes, bivda and the like, Then there are solid eelor pulls overs, and those in open » work meal, the yarn a fine cashmere that resulta In the softest sort of warment, Hloaveless pull «» overs come in white brushed wool with colored boarders, the walst a pinched. In affale with vihbing, i. In AREAL GARNTIOTS WOOL Are. 00 sidere' the amartest ar them all, ------ A gweater suit with knitstosfit waistline and draped tie 1s a new addition to the ranks of knit wear A