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2 oa id They Frame The Face With An Undeniable | 4 Egy mpm 1. io Hr ------------ ump HTT o suai Bat Ee an a an RR a iat hs fs fh - A OF SASL Y Extre - mes Hats Feature Complicated Draperies "and Intricate Trimming Details ss, Then Lift The Brim To Show feture. Formality Is Not For. Yet There Is Youth In The Lines, AF ine Combina- tion Of The Smart And The Feminine TH! LWIA HI VERYTHING, this season, is # study In lines, and hats ave © Ae exception The rather man: nish shapes that weve con« nt with & masculine simplicity line have ne place In this new, or elaborate and Alstinotly nine mods, With frook lines hg & Jeeided downward trend po of gontaur, headwear ust conform to these aharaeterin- ties, There may - asothing of , aven In sports hats, and there must be (ntrieacies of decoras tion and shaping to keep step with the many Hille details that are averywhere apparent In dresses ana eonta, Where designers have been moving steadily ahead for several aeasons, kesping a debnite gon) Tn mind, they ure now giving free vent to thelr exhilaration oyer having areived, The result Js a wide variety, not enly In shapes, hut in trimmings, Which have, again, be- wome Important, ' A Pew Chameteristiea ule Out of the many details certain fundamentals arise, and the smart hat will ba quite sure te possess n snugly ftted crown, a brim that nots As a frame for the face and, vebably, length at the back, forms ng what Is known as the "bird stl- houstte" With the many varia: tions of these Ideas It Is quite pone aitle and ye ony fo, aghiov Ine dividuality, ihe ven! ahjert af nip din efforts. There will not be one, or sven a Aoken outstandi sucossses for thie reason. ; The distinctions that result In typos are contributing reasons to both variety and individuality, The color and fab of Your ansemble, {ta purpose, Ita styling will demand a hat of certain lines, golor, mas tori and your ewn sight ho 0 an Joudhl, noe will be factors bg 7 Ho amal) a thing as the eolor of your roige may sin the effect of a hat, ye! few | M baby's bonnet is made, plaxion for becomingness, The Usunl Materials The soft, wupple felts, velvet, Hrosuraln, hetters plush and the various ramifontions and eombina~ tions of these fabries ave noted, Various designers dignity thelr oventions with & names, but build thelr models against the back. ground of fitted orown, soft brim and width of beim in baek, This lengthened brim reminds, various: ly, of the hat of the fireman or the fisherman, and these terms are applied to It, The front brim, In these models, Is usually turned up, There ls a sphynx silhouette that Is orenting some apmment, and sev eral doslgners nre®using it, Manip ulations of fahrie achieve a plece of headgear that reminds of the famous' woman who has defied the aren, and it may be a singularly in dividual thing, The turban ls ap- proved, but there Is the same on. the-forehiond affect that we find In the hat with the wide brim In back, the line coming to a point exactly In the middle or ever one eyebrow, The Cap Effect Is Good Vary ke the turban in its effect Is the little eap that is developed in #0. many different fabrios, Silks, Satine, wrosprain and, for sports purposes, the (weeds, jerseys, yarn and chenille are noted, and It is new and smart to shire the fabrie In back [nh mueh the sams WAY as a wre using fur for this purpese in one novelty model there was a real bunnet effect Ineveased by ribbon tien that. were bowed under the ohin, _ Binae Heima are so important In the mblinery mode, mention must be made of the eloche models that Are ineluded In" every cellection, They center attention on the hrim which 1s flared rather more than it has dn the past and Is pippled In women reallge this, or the fact that | many of the smart offérings, or arringa ney Aevengdpingn fom: may jpton Drea ong p ion tod: on SN y Way ag If the fabric permits, The crown is shallow, and the combination re« sults In effects that are becoming to many who And the exposed fore. head trying There Are Double Brims There are some mont attractive models that feature a double brim, Rometimens a triple one. The me torial In usually very soft and sup pie ae broadeloth, and two, Veh three colors oan Le used with un- Usual effectiveness, When there Are two brims thers may be a bit of trimming placed between them a4 a flower, a bit of ribbon, a Nuh of feathers, The beret Is another | favorite with designers, but thin type must be included In the group hard to wear, It ls considered very smart to matoh the hat with a scarf, And when the material 1s velvet or broadeloth, or tweed, this is often the plan, The fur hat ta coming ' In fer attention and it ia part of an ensemble, matehing the fur on the coat, the fur collar on the fur coat, or the mult, Luxury la best ex pressed (n fur and velvet, the lat. ter of the panne type, not the heavy stuff from which ploture hats ware wont to be made, Panno vel. vet drapes beautifully, | cording to source and treatment, TAKE GOOD CARE OF IT OW often one hears the plain. tive wall of the tur coat owner =the Inslstence that her ooat It not giving her satisfactory well, although supposedly a good: wearing fur, and purchased at a substantial prices, Perhaps, If the coat could reply, there would be Justifiable complaints aa to the lnok of satisfactory odve. To a certain extent any garment ia like Hie-=we got fram It what we put inte I, whether it be work, care or the eardinal virtues! Pure are sturdy or fragile aos Chinehilla, ermine, mole and aquirs rol are luxury ture, deems pelts, all of them wiring gentle handling and wear, You ean ruin the sleeves A -------- EE ---- of a fine fur garment by rubbing | coat! your elbows continually against the oar in whieh you are plding--nurely you would never drive In a dress For the Bridge Party A green bonnet of felt featuring the "bird wing" ¢/lhouette, Next, black and White hat with brim of galyak. Below, turban of dalhia purple velvet ribbon intricately draped. Accessories sketched are for semi-formal wear, Black suede opera pump with the new bow ornament In black kid, Black envelope bag, suede also, decorated with jewel plaque, nelian and marcasite. Perfumes in simple flower scents are smart again, Black suede gauntlet and choker of car- reasons to the Inoreased demand for furs in the autemoblle~-it weurs | them out, | The end of the perfect bridge party In the perfect bridge prise that winds up the affair and senda the proud winner away in cheerful mood, A decorated vanity ease with a quaint old-fashioned print upon it Of course the linen bridge oloth sets are always In order and if one Is an active hostess there ean not he The ttle seuirrel with a tatl that ascomodatingly turns into an ash tray ls of the new pottery ploces ahd therefore van be excused If Ita stripew are pale green on a pink Background, The bridge prise Is made very festive If It fa tied up In satin ribbon, printed with the symbols of the cards In a suggestion for the hostess, too many of them | "GOING TO THE GAME?" T dess not Matter what ane, or where, Just wo It means "the game to you, The sodte will be important, and the orewd, and Whe weather, but more important than any one thing, what shall you wear? Of course the type that Jou that recommend thir appro ness to you, and some colors will be smarter than others, your chelce the one mest ravishly becoming to you yourself, you will be welng by motor, and tha XU, nk warm Abparel imperative, May mean luneh pefore ihe game, tea ) home, L) dinner defors the ust what you do will --- boning on your frock for it there ia to be any thing that even savors of formality, an a tea, dress must be the Where there ia tea there | fabrie, And sleave, and suggesting the ft. ted slihouette, You may not close your eyes, even for an instant, to the longer wkirt, If there 1a to be no tea, then the frook of tweed, or covert, or some Hght welght wool ia the proper choles, Quite tailored, also, would thin frock be, and It may be JN 4 with those models that Whbed "rumble seat fashion" Perhaps you will like an ensemble, and It, two, will be chosen with your activities in mind, tor the ens semble sult that rides to and looks out Upon the game from Stadium or bow! may not be gerpect for the . HY TRA hat makes possible the added comfort of a coal, as well an a Jacket sult le oarried out In tweed or tovert, and there fs a skirt and jacket of the 88 wall as A séven-eighths or full-length coat. Then there in a blouse, of arepe oF satin, and the effect tn of fing & detal rather than man-tall finish, A broadoloth ensemble, rather lavish. ly furred, Ia correct for woolal avents that possess. ah Informal manner Y \ The fur coat, an indispensible in mahy minds, when It comes to football games will be finished with dressmaker details that make them distinctive, You will sew Is, | velope type, or boast kandles, while volta of Inpin, tashion's favorite in the fur range, and there will be beaver coats and those of the plos tureaque leopard, Then there will be a little round muff, a clever little accomsory to the coat, and maybe te the hat, for there are hata' of fur, The mult carries us back, years back, There are other coats, separate affairs, of twedd, homeapun, some novelty wool, or camel's hate, They will be furred, with raccoon, fiteh, beaver, lapin, or some sports fur, and. it is quite possible that the separate coat will be furslined, And whatever her oholos, frook of slik or wool, ensemble of tweed or suede-finished aloth, fur or woul coal, she will look to her acces: norien, making certain that they are upstosthe-moment and apppro+ priate, » Her and shoes will agrees upon leather, color and ornamens tation, and the former will be ens the fatter will possess leather heels of the Cuban, or at least a medium low type, Hoslery will be darker than some time, and gloves the sate for dark tones, even black, with n colors, are good, The hat will look to 1ta kind-perhaps | a twveed fol for the tweed Outhy, | felt, fustrimmed If you like, for] the more termal ensemble, { One of the contrivutiog | | mervation, ven the sturdiest sine will not stand up under neglect, and yet there are many women who argue the durability of a vertaln fur with. out taking care to help In ity pre Instinet telld us, when a thing is wet, that It must be dried, and our first recourse, is nat- urally, to heat, If you get your fur cont wet, hang It carefully on a hanger and then put in It a cool place, It will dry out In time, and will not become stiff and tear aunlly, It 1s only natural that the edges of a coat should wear before any other part, but we are oareless about the habits that cause various places to show bare of hair in a very short time, The Kat that rubs the collar, or the handbag that ls oarvied under the arm, always In one place, will finally result in a pateh that Is worn, The use of pookets will wear thelr edges, for the cured skin does not have the necessary properties to cover bald places with fur, Handwear In Mind. WARDROBE, Nowadays, In a ollection of wardrobes, each carefully melocted thing, Avery new frock is an excuse for new shoes, & new hat, new | gloves and all the Imperative uc | cessorien, If one's pooket-bobk will | permit, In any event, there must | be an accessory wardrobe, com posed of a wise selection of cos: tume details, No matter how be coming the frock, or how appro- priate, there must be strigt atten- tien paid to the Anishing touches that are put en with gloves, ker: ehief and the like, And this season you are going back, In some cases A great many years, and adopt for your use pleces of jewelry or some other thing that has long been out of fashion For It took the oulmi- nation of the feminine theme to bring back Inte the fashion world the niceties of the costume, as, for instance, the long black glove, Oprcles Within Circles Accedsory ensembles are subordi- nated to the main ensemble, a sories of smaller eoircles within a big one, They follow the same lines, however, as do the circles themselves, We speak of the gen eral mode as one of simple lines but intricate detalls, and It Is so with many of the little things that #0 to complete the costume, Vision the shoe of the moment---~it Is ex. quisite in its contour, but there is much of elaboration subordinated to that silhouette, Salient features of this most im- | portant accessory include the use of two leathers, perhaps, but not two oelors, When it comes te color black leads, then come the browns, and efter that the blues and greans, White opera pumps are to be had, the idea being to color tham to ex- actly match the frock they eem- plement, Suede is the formal ma- teria), onlf and lisard are used for sports, and crepe de ohine and morie are svening materials, some trimmed with kid, Vollows The Handbag One may be quite certain what she will find In the handbag shop, it ashe bak just come from & shoe shop, or she may find both In the same department of a store = or sugwenstions for the combining of the two, The same material in the same color will be used, and there are ensembles offered In which the trimming on the shoe ia matched by the trimming on the handbag, For materiale and trimmings must run true te type In both of Reve imperative accessories, There Ia a real vogue for suede, both In shoes and handbags, and black Is the favored color, It will be smart to have one aocessory en semble, at least, In black, and it ls possible to Include black suede gloves In the groupings, Home of the flat purses are finely tallored, appliques used with tiny pipings, "By Any Name As Sweet! T really matters little what we oall theme-=bridge frook, mown for high tea, Bunday supper frook, they are oharming just he same, and they possess the little detalls of formality that have become dear to our hearts, They would never do for a shopping trip, nor yet for a formal dinner or dance, but they are true to tradition in that they are made of materials that hoeder on the sumptuous and display lines that are sleek, Mowing and lissome, They are of, and yet apart from the afternoon frock group, for they have an individuality that fe distinotive, ' Almost without ex- coption they are either sleeveless, feature the oap aleeve or a bertha collar that covers the upper part of the arm, or go jacket style, the blouse beneath the short ovat a sleeveless, decolleta affair == one supposes the jacket Ia meant for the intervening hours between a formal lunch and the equally for. mal Sunday supper! Odd, ten't It? Supper 'ia again a word that we are using quite freely ~~ who knows ~- perhaps we shall return 'to hatrol furniture. and (ts accessory antimaoassars, The exotic note ty expressed in 'tha touch of an Midas designer, a wold» - --et The Frock of the Week . It han been designed for tm. mediate wear about town dure Ing the lovely fall days when one fa a bit suaploloun of sum- mer-like sunshines yet may net bo too heavily clothed, This frock, of Ne --, Canton orepe, goes lunohing in: the smartest places, po wn matinee, and goes home quite correctly for the necessary ohal to a formal dinner wow It ta very slmple, yet it emphasizes the new allhouette, a the weil nd Jonty @ walet or, A red. HE date, na Jadhat 4 affoot 'ver a, contrasting bie " ow combination fu one. of newer offerings -- a deep ture quelse bine In the satin hiv setting off the rich brown the dress. | finished lame, and the fitted Jines running well to the knees, the belt at the normal walstline and the deolded decollets are features of! the model, The Jacket ls a straight little after, Angerstip length and tight sleeved, A orepe frook, shot with metal threads In a bisarre design, has the cap sleeves that are friendly to the woman with a heavy upper arm, The fabric Is soft and sup: ple, and there are draperies to give individuality to the contour, somewhat tn contrast to the long, melded lines we have come to ex. pect, A group of frocks for this, same purpose feature velvet in the rleh, glowing shades of green, brown and purplé, some of them with sleeves, some without, | What Color = Velvet | OU are in the midst of A Ntted- to-the-figure season, and your modigte will be, first of all, aagured concerning your ocerrect measuréments, The molded line must 'ba skillfully done, and there must be a look of naturalness about 1t, Another thing, have Mons he ni hie we inalst n onoh poonsion= whic Lod bh hen of fabrie, color and linea, an applied to type. Ruling the material mede we have he, velvets, ' here are two of importance, panne and transparent, and they are both plain and printed, 'Bw among the hundreda of colors, and ave, literally, hundreds, we And that certain shades are more abarant than others, and of this 8 1) wroUp a few are moat im. portant of all, There ta a rioh burgundy red, a dark hunter's green and a purple that has the tones of the dahlla-~these three are amartest, Except black, which ts always first choles, | Lr to Ita source? For it looks very od vo ton of a frock, although It planned for wear on the links, town, It's made of mephyr' a "The Sunday supper frock bri of Costume Details Everything Necessary To the Smart Ensemble is Duly Considered Shoes And Handb s For orm An Alliance With Costume Jewelry Is Gorgeous, Striking, Bizarre. Even The Scent That Milady Uses Has A Reason For Its Existence And A Logical One while others dgpend for thels beuuty on beautiful elasps, un weinl- precious stone set In marcas ov uw fancy clasp of gold ovr wllver metal, Gloves Are Longe Mashion suddenly become wlove-gonsclous, und there ls an 4p= propriate type for every occasion, planned to complete costume hare mony, The mousquetalry is again in the Yimelight, and the long black wlove Is worn In the evening, ehief- ly with the black frock, Plxtesns hutton gloves are the gvening choloe, and glace kid and suede are rivals for popularity, It is the same for afternoon costumes--the slip on good, and the gauntlet worn on the street Although we are, undoubtedly, in an age when modernistic effects must come in tor attention, our aps parel seems 18 disregard this fact, As in other departments of dress, we have gone back to old-fashioned things, making them new, There are reproductions of pleces that re. mind of old-time photographs, and now Is the time to resurrect the really good pleces that are heirs looms =~ there are old-fashioned lockets among the neck adornments that are approved Jewelry In A Bit Heavy They are surely exhausting every source to lend variety to the eos tume Jewelry mode, and to find things appropriate to the separate types, There are ropes of gold and sliver, negklaces and bracelets und earrings that niake use of the semi precious stones as well as amber, tnd erysopt ra We note the Boni and carved stones, and the Bpanish Influence prevails in some of the pleces, Match your ensemble with a semi-precious stone, as near as it is possible to get it, Bverything is specialized nowa- days, even our perfumes, and there are fashions In them quite, as much as there are in clothes. Tor a time we wore perfumes with mysterious names, hut this season the flower odors are considered smartest, and you will' choose the one that seems to best sult your personality, or you may matoh the soent to the costume itself, And you may purchase sachets in the flower odor that you effect--they have come in with the feminine theme, hos rp -------- v | ty nN. 4 tween formal a wear, Sp a \ ed i wi with sult or under a topooat in sketch he 8 lame th past Sols