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---------- | The HJ /772 of fA STO =» Depending On . The Guiding Principle of the Hat \ Mode is Personal Distinction You Will Express Your Personality Through ' The Line Of Crown And Brim. A Variety Of Shapes Makes It Not Only A Possi- bility ut A Real Duty, For ou Are Told, By Fashion Advisers, That othes Have Never Been So Im rtant---Or So Becom- ing To The Wearer Ly HY guiding thought behind ! general fashions seems to be differentness, and we find it ex- pressed in millinery quite as often as anywhere else. J} is rather in. teresting to watch the woman shopping for a new hat, especially when she has come out with the settled intention of meouring a shape that possesses a brim, It is an nocepted fact that the newest mil- linery is oft the forehead and wide at the side, so that the brimmed Hat appears in less varioty than the one without a brim, With the new colors and the new lines, the shop. per finds It diMcult to wecure the just-right hat for the special cos- tume, and when she finds color and brim to please, it does not, somehow, "click." It is a jarring rote In the ensemble, Lines Are Very Important It is hard to define the quality that exists in the new clothes, The simple lines of the little cloche are not suMclent to carry out the thought that is expressed in the rather Intricate styling of the new. est frocks and coats, Manipula- tion of material is noted In the smartest hats, and so IL happens that the shopper, having tried on both types, the brimmed and brim« loss, ends with an off « the - face model, if for no other reason than its fHitneas to costume, There Is need for a different type of hat for each costume type, and colors, lines and details will differ in every one, Luxury is apparent in the materials used, and the gen oral effoct is one of elegance, Since hats, in many instances, trim thems polves, It 1s quite necessary that the fabric of which they are made be lovely enough to achieve distino- tion, 'The supple materials are in demand, for workability is Impera~ tive, no matter what the type, Fabrics And Colors Combine Probably there are, at the mo- ment, taore felts than other mater- fals, There is a new fabric, known as vis a vis, that ls appropriately named, for it is a light welght stuff that is felt on one side and solell on the other, It works up beau titully, and sometimes It is out In such a fashion that one side alter- nates with the other, One can readily see that many interesting trimming themes can be w ed out with a double-surfaced fabric as the medium, Chenille is used in eombination with both felt and satin, and this is more often the case when the model is. a beret or turban. They are using ribbon, velvet or satin, even sitinebagied velvet, and there are tweoedesarid knit materials for sports, Colors are combined, and it Is smart to trim felt in one shade with felt In another, sometimes only a touch, as a strip woven through the crown or brim, or banding the crown, Beveral shades may be used, The Newest Silhouette The hat that turns up in front, flares at the sides, or Is long In back, may be termed the very lat. ost fashion, There are so many variations and combinations of these three characteristics that it should be possible for nearly every- one to wmelect a becoming one, There is a lot in getting accustomed to this new idea, and It does seem more difMoult to adapt one's self to the new hats than to the new sithouette In dresses, yet the latter in strange, too, Designers are experimenting with the turban, likewise the beret, They can be built on the head, and be raised here, droop there, any- thing at all that Is Individual, There are certain featured slihou- ettes, among them the flremen's hat, the sphynx, and the fisher man's hat, One's knowledge of the hats worn by firemen and fsh- ermen will Immediately suggest the lines that they assumes, and" the headdress of the woman of silence will define the third type, Sports Types Are Smart ns ---- De tails for Three types of hats, the trimmed sports of felt, the extreme off-the-face bonnet in soleil and velvet and the wide flared-at-the-sides model of panne with modified turn-back brim, Accessories shown are black antelope 'bag with marcasite clasp and opera pump of black suede, The necklaces are pearl and cut crystal, baguette rhinestone chain with hematite pendant set in maracite, leather and gold sports choker in modern design, -------------------------- - mo y Accessories are, however, subordl-| nated to the suit, For we look upon the costume as & sult, whether it he made up of The use of tweed Is po gonoral| goparate frock and coat, or was! that it is not strange that it has | purchased as an ensemble In Its broken into millinery, Crocheted fabrics and tricot and many dif | every accessory from hat to shoes, ferent wools are favored for sports use, and it is considered smart to | sivie and the color nd handbag, v0, It will be ink hat with scarf or with one of the seen that the oi sumble theme Is everywhere to be noted, and the minor ensemble remains an impor- tant part of the major ensemble, ousness of the evening mode is expressed in this black . of taffeta po foi ribbon, A short coat of shown with is wolf, It will he the background of | and will determine the fabrie, the It In always safe to mention black, no matter what the subject under discussion, and the nlack hat is a classic There is a falr for this somber hue, at this time, and It must not be Ignored DID YOU EVER TRY P'reshening your velvet frock by hanging it In the bathroom or laundry when there is steam In the making? Brush it while it is damp, Using pleces of your frock mates rial for handkerchiefs, having the edges plooted? Thin is specially effective when the fabric is sheer, Alring your closets with an elec trie fan? «© Place the fan In the doorway of the closet and be sure that a window In the room Is open, both top and bottom, The Gown of the Week It 1s made of fishnet, very open as to mesh, and very black as to eglor, It possesses a dignity and formal elegance that is wholly In keeping with this new 19080 mode, and It Is perfoot for the really formal afternoon affalr, for dinners of the informal sort, and plays pirfectly the role of a Bunday- night supper frock, It pos posses the long, slenderizing silhouette, and the skirt falls in sllky softness to the ankles In back, but Is a bit shorter in front, There Is a slender belt at the normal walstline, and a gorgeous buckle to fasten this belt is the only ornamen- tation, A rounded neckline and long sleeves are details, and the model is one of the most becoming of the new fashions, BT a a ITH the new feeling for| WV iis we find a tendent Y| to express that feeling In| detalls An a rosult, women have hocome, suddenly, glove conselous. and no costume, day or evening, Is complete without the correct hand wear to supplement It Whether you are shopping, tea-ing, or going out most formally of an evening your gloves must be correct, and It often happens that some motif of trimming decides type us tiny footballs on the cuffs of sport| gloves, Probably the most startling In. novation in the accessory fleld Is the black glove, worn with hand footwear of the somber hue, or, as frequently hap» pens, lery, that stockings much than for many seasons bag and same five-buiton it the four correct or but must down around the wrist seeming negligence that edly studied Embroidery and inorusted designs erushed with a is decid be applique and APPEAr On ex- | treme cuffs or gauntiets, and metal and leather are mediums used, the design being modermistio or others wise decorative, Heauvals em- dg A A Short, long and longer, as the mode becomes more formal, seems to be the rule for gloves. Short cuffed glove for sports, eight button for tea or shopping and elbow length for evening affairs, a a a The Formal Season is Open ! HEN the opera opens, and Wi brilliant assemblage of gorgeously clad women make thelr bow from the Horses shoe--the evening sonson is oMcelals ly open, too, It means that the supper clubs are at thelr gayest, and the wardrobe must be furs nished forth with evening apparel, for formal clothes are the major consideration' nowadays, Hvery« thing that is new will be found in this group, and there Is a ploturs esque olegance that it ts diffoult to describe, Luxury and® distinction, as well as elegance, are charactoristios of the new evening mode, which has turned back to other centuries for {ta inspiration. We are accepting the high walstiine, the graceful length of skirt and the deep, daring decolletaye that designers have ofally in formal things for evening Wear, Cortaln costumes have reveived the seal of approval that is needed to make them vogue, Certain de- talls are wise approved, and from them you will select your own, There are trains on some of the evening gowns, and there ia a flair for the frock that is even all the way round, the frook that barely olears=--=in some instances touches| the ground, And, of cose, there are frooks that dip deeply In back but do not train, and they are rather long In front, There {3 much of beauty, dignity, distinetion and elegance in the] black evening frock, and this Is proven by the many models that | are offered, There are frocks of | black' lace, mysterious affairs, that | have alluring draperies and fiohu oollare to make them distinguished, prescribed, and it is amart to be old-tashioned and now-fashioned at the same time, For the past is the true essence of tha anne A frock of black chiffon has a very deep deoulletage and sleeves! It " Bunda o sieht fraak and the sleeves are made lovely with very deep cuffs of jewels--a ploturesque note, Gowns of hlack net are quaint and amart, There are frocks in the dahlia shades, really second cholee tu black, and then come the gay frocks of lame or metal moire, The lames are beautifully colored, and they are as sheer as tissue, and they make frooks that are graceful, slender and ohio, They are guite smart in themselves, the material supplying the trimming. Not and lace ave used together, and there are taffetas, molres, orepes and velvets, The opening of the opera set the seal of fashionable approval on both short and long wraps, bags of metal brocade or seed pearls or coral; on the opera pump of satin or moire, colored to match the frook, long gloves, either bhlack, white colored, chiffon holsery and all the appurtenances to the pleldly farmal aastiana, or linked with sheer black hos: | is ornamented For you may never forwet| Sometimes the cuffs &re turreted, darker| and one pair had a orystal button For morn-| a5 further Ing and informal afternoon Wear | gight-button type gloves are rival glove 18{ of the pull-on Y "Hand in Glove", Says Fashion broldery is used instead of back straps on one glove, and the cuff in the same way, detail Four, six and Evening gloves have returned, | two | BO hut they are not the usual formal white glace kid that we associate With this type, White is, of course, elassio, but it Is very smart to wear gloves that reach, or almost reach, | the elbow, and mateh them to the footwear, which Is quite sure to he the opera pump, and dyed to At into the color scheme, With the always important all-black evening frock, black suede gloves are worn, the arm above providing the neces- sary break AA ---- A PLEASING IDEA The housewife has donned pa- Jamas for kitchen and morning wear, And it is a decidedly prace tioal and pleasing idea, for one need not wear a corset beneath this glorified overall sult, A colorful kitchen demands gayety in the ap parel of the one who rules over | | pleces composed of metal and ecol- Individualit ET -------- yy » You Will Achieve Elegance Through Correct Coftume Details The Ensemble Theme Is More Important In Accessories Than It Has Ever Been, You Will Choose Each Trifle Of Elegance With Coat, Frock «Be Sure That The ion-Right For Or Suit In Mind Are Fash. e Type Of Costume That Is Considered BE have worked back wrad- Wir trom severity to eles ganoe, the latter acquired by fine attention to detail, And this detail means, not only the fine points of frock and coat, but the acoessories that complete the eos: tume, Hlegance demands beauty, and a harmonising of paris, the small things quite as important as the large, If the result Is to he certain, The shops are overflowing with everything that Is smart, beautiful and appropriate, but you must depend upon your own taste and judgment in selection, Dees orative effects are important where they were omitted entirely a decs ade ago, even neckwear consid ered of the utmost importapes in this new scheme of things, Hvery frock is Individual, and there must be 1Adividual accessories to It, eall ing for fine diserimination in buy ing that things may de double duty, Shoes And Handbags The minor ensemble Is best ex emplified in footwear and the hand» bag . that goes with it, for it In considered very smart to mateh the in material, color, line and trimming, The addition of gloves 1s sometimes possible, although we see them matched to hoslery In more instances than to gloves, In happens that shoes are now offered in all of the newer shades and this makes possible more alll ances, for the handbag strikes a color note If possible, Huede is the favorite leather, and then come calfskin, pin seal, Hazard skin, these for street Wear, When formality isin order we have velvet, seed poar! and brocade, for both afternoon and svening, Tweed is the sport choles, or calfakin, or lgard, Black is the leading color, and after black, brown, Green, next, then dahlia, and fifth in the list, we have the old favorite, blue, Red and gray are mentioned, then come color combinations, Jewelry Takes To Color Hieganoce takes note af color, and there is no one thing better adapted to the husiness of supplying a note of contrast or accent than jewelry, One must consider the frock when selecting the various pleces that are to finish the costume effect, and to ald In the cholce there are ored stones, the latter following costume colors, If you like the idea of an exact mateh you ean follow it out---even the new dahlia Appears, : But many rejoloe in contrast, and with brown a prevailing color, there is much ade about gold and topas, and tortolse ls brought Inte the scheme of things, this, also, combined with geld, Rather more effective than matehing pleces fs the amethyst stone, worn with the dahlia shades, chaloedony and ery soprase, set in antique silver, worn with green or black, Carnelian, in the same setting, for brown and hlack, is most effective and rich ap» pearing, Sports Jewelry Is Unique There are certain oddties on dls. Play, marked "For Sportewear ! hination | demand Only," that claim our attention, Leather jewelry Is very new, and it is made of strands of leather or of leather-covered beads, Then there are necklaces of heads covr ered with jersey, the very nature of them deciding thelr use, Gala~ Hth Is used in some of the pleces, and the metals continue, although It Is only natural that the newer ideas should be considered the very smartest, The artificial pear! Is Important, and It Is featured for daytime and evening wear, It Is combined with metal, galalith or some contrasting stone for daytime wear, and with rhinestones for evening, Rhinestone and erystal are evening choles, and there are some really gorgeous necklaces In both, alone or In com~ There Is still a great for the pendant, worn either on a necklace or a slender chain, and the back-drape Is im» portant Neckwear A Featured Accessory The unadorned neckline 8 a thing of the past, and shops now show a variety of ready-made frills, to be used as Individual taste and | need direct, and all sorts of beaus tiful neckwear planned for various types of gowns, Batiste is used | for frills, gllets, gllete and cul and collar sets, and geems to be a favorite over other fabrics, Lace neckwear Is important, and many frocks that are simple of Jine de- pend for lusury on an exquisite collar of fine lace, The handkerchief may net be neglected, whether the costume be sports, daytime or evening, Prints ed handkerchiefs vie for pepulars ity with plain white, when the need is daytime, and evening brings out the ohiffon kerchief, very large, either printed or plain, and often» times edged with lace, Fitted silk soarfa are being featured, and theve is every evidence that cold weather will bring out sports scarfs of tweed, jersey, and other smart woolens, Did You Know -- THAT velvet or soleil is the proper cholee In hat material when the froek Is velvet? A model made of velvet ribbon and tulle, In als ternating bands, is finished In back with hows of the ribbon, Soleil la smart when trimmed with ermine, Velvet wears a brilliant pin, THAT the proper afternoon gloves, for wear with formal cosas tumes, are elght-button mousque= talres? And quite the newest offer ing Is an imported glove of wash« able kidekin? The colors are Ins teresting--eggahell, mode, brown, black, white, burgundy, green and navy, THAT the jersey blouse is more important than any other for wear ° with the tweed or knitted sult? It is a very casual sort of blouse, and may be had In slip-on style, with buttons, and with the sipper fasten- ing. It 18 tuek-in or slipover, and comes in all the smart colors, Furnish Forth Her Closet! NEW idea has come into the shower scheme, and it ia now considered amart to give the prospective bride the outfitting of a closet, and, Incidentally, there are Christmas suggestions in the de- partment that is known as the closet shop, Items that add charm te the home,' and are convenient in the process are to be found here, even the proper stuff to line the shelves and decorate them, Clothes, at the moment, should be ®iven a proper setting, The closet will have a celor scheme, and all its appointments will form, when assembled, an en: semble, Perhaps there will be closets for everything, so that the hat closet will be dust-proof, the shoe closet just a resting place for shoes--and, perhaps, holsery, and the closet devoted to frocks a thing apart, Or it may be a huge closet, with everything housed within it, Hither way, appointments are pro- vided, and they are space conservs ing always. Rods that sawing In and out are convenient, and the hangers are padded and perfumed so that the frook Is ready for wear when fit is removed from the hanger, Dust covers are needed when the closet is not dust-preof, Hats perch on stands when there is a special oloset for them, and (here are gay boxes for individual hata when they must stand on shelves, There are shoe oabinets, arranged to held soveral pairs of shoes and the stockings that go with them, There are shoe-treea to mateh the general color scheme, and cer: tain shelves may be devoted to boxes and trays for the various things that go to complete the cos- thme. There may he a olothes hamper in the spacious oloset, and it will follaw tha color scheme. a4 Another item that will fit inte the guest room closet 1a the luggage rack, so handy for the sult case, and quite correct for the used breakfast tray, if luxury permits such a thing, and other extras, The bathroom offers further sug- goations for the bridal shower and for Christmas giving, Shower cur tains come in fanoy fabrios--taf- feta, satin, meire, and are spot proof, alse mildew-proaf, They ean be matched with curtains for the windows--keeping ta the idea eof the ensemble, Then there ia the bathroom seale == in the correct calor, of course, and there are sets of bottles for the cabinet, not only in whita but in colors, and dee orated charmingly, A luge rack gaily Junin useful as well an pretty gift, new thines to sive, Hat boxes to Shoe and with embroidered 4 \