The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

{ } Fy i ~~ Const May Build Your Costume Around Separate Coat. Choose it Carefully. The Untrimmed Coat Is The Ensemble Coat, You a TE. ou -------- #54 And It May Be Of Tweed, Covert, Wool Crepe Or A Basket Weave Materials. Black, Blue And Mixtures Are The Colors i ee : & (tant 7 Li the new. fashion requires ments are taging you sorely, when it comes to your bude got. The injection of type Inte fashion, and the need for so many types, is making the problem of clothes a bit diMcull, and some- times we long for the "good old days" when a sports frock was cor: rect for practically every daytime occasion, You have already found, no doubt, that a goodly portion of the real sports models are devel. oped in wool, although thare are silk, cotton and linen sports mod- ols, too. Town clothes are what you must have for daytime wear in the merning, Afternoon frooks, varying in formality, must be in- eluded in your wardrobe, and then there must be the evening frocks, which will alse vary ae- cording to the needs of the occas sion, And thers must be acces: sories, correct as to type, color and material, 4, You Must He Practical Unless your budget is unlimited you must shut your eyes to the lovely, {impractical things that erowd the smart shops, And, incl dentally, you must really budget! The very fact that certain New York shops, desirous of stressing thrift, have opened Budget Bhops is proof the need of spending one's money wisely and with due fore thought. A dagnite line must be drawn in the spending column op- each and every type that be money encugh for all Yo are probably finding that in the fashion situation, woman and average of practical and semi-formal things for really formal clothes means that the correct of 5 coal to serve as t is the hub of revolve, And that cost will be un , that ia it will not be farred, and any elaboration will be very simple. eadwear Is Chic And Charming whatever Teoninue thelr influ. calling the new hats models, which means, 34 LL a of a more dressy fabric suitable 10 our purposes, and we will seek upen line and handwork, rather than richness of fur, for its . gance, Yor elegance it must have, Buch a coat will be beautifully de- signed and possess the finest tal- loved workmanship, assuring its suitabllity to the finer frocks that afternoon occasions bring forth, There are many models offered, all of them smart, Capes And Scarfs Important While you will And that tweed and novelty wool coats keep to the stralghtest sort of lines, you will likewise find that the coat of wool orepe, which Is generally approved, and clroular flounces, Incidentally, of the 1980, fashion may not be at against it, not last, If you may not wear a eape, and flared coats that finish the neck. line cleverly with a se are belted with a to sports moda, while others are fit. ted snugly at the waist but forego the belt, One of the belted models is to be had in both wool crepe and covert cloth, the latter rather important in the material mode of the season. The sleeves In these oapeless coals are rather addicted te ornament, Tie-Beltsa Are Fashionable In some of the crepe designs more in keeping with the more elaborate theme, Home of the capes are tuoked In front to make 8 the divided cape and 4 arrangements lend novelty te the mede. A coat of wool crepe uses an elbow-length cape and a soart, knota the sleeves at the wrist and ignores both the flat and the tie-belt, Some will, undoubtedly, vote in favor of the coat with fur, and the wisest "buy" in this type In the coat that either flares slightly or has width at the hem through inverted pleats and possesses a belt and a collar of long-haired fur, If strict attention Is given to line, this coat will ba usable another season, The poat with a cape that hangs to the walstiine, this cape banded with fur, chooses wool opepe. Galynk fur Is as smart as «street and sports wear there are "| ribbons and flowers are Important, he mat In .the parlance &f the hat trade, the hat that is really trimmed. For hata of the utmost simplicity, but and newer than either, thers are cleaver little lingerie touches on many of the newer models, Prob. ably more interest is centered in the large hat than in any other, for It is the typleal summer hat for formal econsions, Whichever way we turn, variety is stressed, There are hats for the woman whe does net wear her halr over her ears---she will find It A great help to wear earrings, If But mere of us will find a coat An untrimmed model that depends will resort to flares, capes, scarfs the coat that follows the whimaies 'all the correct thing In 1081---one could safely place a heavy wager For coats are typleally of the present mode, which will many of us cannot, then there are f, and some of the i ; t Fras # 0 Sea oS Tn A et The Background of Your Wardrobe the belt is a tie afalr, seam ingly | AD them fit more snugly. others reach | to the elbow and run all the way thers ls |S worn and skirt wil A full-length yellow Weed coat cut on frock lines is an excellent t ual success over informal or semi-formal frocks. be just as smart combined with other materials, quarters coat which will be useful over many frocks of summer, Suit Is lack J ---- around which to build one's summer costumes, for it can be combined with pique in Ensemble of printed and plain Georgette in blue has a plain three- astel green, Both jacket SY oF FASTIN The Suit Feels the Influence of Warm 'Weather. It's An ideal Background. If You Incline To Jacket Costumes, Then You Will Have A Jacket Suit. If Your Need Is A Long Coat, Then You Will Find A Suit With This Gar. ment A Part Of It ARLY in the spring, even E pete winter was officially over, the sult made its ap- pearance. Its coming was heralded by the Palm Beach mode, which made much of it, and it was adopted for wear under the win ter coat when the weather was too cold for it as & sult, Tis progress toward extreme popularity has been steady, many women finding in it a solution of certain prob. lems that a separate coat would not solve, The separate coat, you see, is long, and there Is no doubt that the jacket is a synonym for youth, therefore, every one that can wear A Jacket in any guise whatsoever is going to do it! Again, the blouse Is important In the spring mode, and it is quite possible to use a sult, when chosen with this idea in mind, for two distinct costume types, relying on blouse and ao- oessories to achieve the distinc. ton, Travel Type Salts Abound Two of these types deserve spe- cial mention, for they are unique, yot practical. With one we are familiar, the four-plece outfit that is made up of jacket, skirt and long coat of tweed or an equally appropriate material, and a blouse to complete the ensemble, Blouses oan, of courses, be varied, and the coat may be used as a separate utility coaf, just the thing for the separate frooks of plain or printed materials that are so necessary to the traveler. The second type begins with a one-piece frock of some smart printed material, the very kind of & dress that is correct for the Journey's end. Then there Is a wrap-around skirt to be worn over this dress, when traveling, and a Jacket or long coat to complete it. There are so many possibilities in a suit of this kind, for another frock or two oan be chosen, or there may be blouses, making up a complete, useful and very smart traveling outfit for land or sea. The Jacket Suit Important Whenever possible, there should be a Jjacket-skirt-blouse outht in the wardrobe, But if the jacket is not becoming, aveld it, relying on the suit with a long cost or one that is long enough to keep for you every Inch of your helght. It may interest you to note that the jacket suit that matohes coat and blouse, with a contrasting skirt, is gaining in popularity, but materials in this type of suit must be real summer ones, the linens and cottons serv. ing. One happy combination is the dress and jacket suit, making the A---------------- Becoming, for they remave (he bare look, And there are hats for the woman with a lot of hair over her ears, As to the matter of brims, they had te be, for longer skirta and the feminine modé made them necessary, A beim, odd Af to ita line, is really much smart OF just ngw, than the brimiess hat, With the broad brim goes the shallow crown, But yeu are not to assume that the brim ia the old fashioned ploture type, for it W not, It may be wider at the sides than In front, and the sides may not be of equal width, and it may curve up here and down there at ita own sweet will. And you see, do you net, that this variety means individual hecomingness, for a brim can be widened or narrowed, lifted or lowered to make It be coming to the one wearing It, The toque and the turban dnd the beret remain, mere eapecially the latter, whieh ia being made Inte a charming thing. "And they are using summer fabrics for sum. mer hats--linen for the linen frock shangtung for the shantung suit and tweed for the tweed ensemble Straws have a touch of pique trim- ming, strictly tailored, and that trimming may be removable, so that there can be a trim in keveral colors to match a frock, or to har: monize with collar and ouff sets THE LINGERIE FASHION OF THE WEEK It's the pattleoat! And our fashion makers have gone inte the Attic and dusted off the old-fashioned trunk to find this demure little garment, that is the {dea for it, Tor it is not the petticoat of other days, of starched mualin and many frills, but a straight line little "halfalip" an it were, aven & fitted 'Ine affair, And in plage of width and tiny "dust ' there is & scal loned efige i Date edging of lace. fcoat is a Yery apropos for it an sures us that we shadow proof, and it doss not add to the bulk above the walstiine, Some of them are wrap. around, others are fitted onto a narrow yoke, 'and still ethers like a, deep yoke, The wrap- around model ia edged down the front and around the hem with Alencon lace~-that's the fashionable lace, you know! A pantie petticoat lines, com! in one, That Colored Bathroom HE pure white bathroom | that used to be a model of sparkling purity is out of style, In ita place we have colored bathrooms, even tha most conservative using tiles that are black and white, Injecting. bright. ness through linens and other bath: room fittings,' Then thers are hathrooms with colored tiles and white tubs, and thers are baths with 4}l colpr, even to the tubs themaei\es, A modern bathroom is a very charming spot, and should be given correct accessories, The bath in the average apart. ment is black and white, and in homes where there is more than one bath-=even the smaller houses have (wo, these days, one is black and white, And the black and white bathroom is rather a con. [an excellent idea, by the way, to venience, for in It one can make use of gift sets in color that would never do In some of the colored baths. Orange is smart 'in black and white setling---mats, towels, rugs and ourtalns showing an orange motif---the shewer curtain, also, There is one danger in a colored bath--too many shades of the col- or, some of them hostile. For In. stance! JA housekeeper In a new home was charmed with her bath. room uled In soft green with a border of ine pink poales through it. § At a housewarming she re. ontbed groan things malore, and net one was the same soft green as the tile! For such a bathroom the linena should be pink, stressing the color In the border. Oft.greens would spoll the entire dolor effect, _ You will find colored accemsorios (0 serve your every need, Shower curtains coma In plain and pat. terned rubberized materials--it la keap a plain white shower curtain inside your colored one, and bath sets of mat, towels, both large and amall, and face cloths come in solid colors and ever so many de- signa, or they may be white, pat. terned or monogrammed in color, Rugs for the floor can be found in hig nd that harmonise per: ootly, There are colored glass bottles for the cabinet or dreming table, wool cavers for stool or ahalr, eel. ored scales to help you wateh yeur weight and everything imaginable to ald in the gay business of fur. nlshing the bathreem in eelor. With gray tiling, try the effect of rose accessories, er, if you would be subtle, there are erehM-purp! shades that will please. A yellow tie may be smarter with a touch of hiack wile Pale LJ 0 "| few seasons ago. The pa Jacks! possible to those who may not wear the shirtwaist, The tuck- in blouse fs so 'much smarter than the slipover that it rules suprems, and when unbecoming, the one- piece frock is the next choles, for it permits of a jacket. You will find this eombination in wools, silks and chiffons, the latter quite sure to possess A jacket that will permit It to do duty on occasions that are really informal, A Word About The Blouse Thers are all sorts of blouses, shirtwalst and overblouse type, using every material that can be used from pique and linen through the embroidered batistes to silks, Georgette and chiffon, They boast collars and little eapes and oape sleeves and cap sleeves, and are sleavaless and long-sleeved, both, And there seems to be a curious fond for opposit the bl that is strictly tallored and the one that is classed as lingerie, a dressmaker style, Many are fond of the little gilet, a sleeveless bit that is most cor. rect when of pique. You will find this gilet in white and in the smart pastel shades, and it may be very plain, or it may have scalloped odges, or It may have collar and revers. Glass buttons are used on it and sometimes it Is belted, The lingerie blouse likes embroidersd batiste best, and after that the blouse of handkerchief linen which shows drawn work or some other type of fine detall, The Summer Ensemble Suit It is only logical that the woe! suit should give way, in warm weather, to a sult of a thinner fab- ric. Hence we have the silk suit, the Georgette ensemble and ever so many little outfits made of ocot- ton or linen. . These latter are really most pengible and economi- oal, for they are appropriate to the hottpst weather and ean be tubbed frequently to keep them spotless. Twin pints in the va- rious cottons are used cleverly, and the ocoat-jacket-blouse suit rules. The Georgette ensemble appears, made up of a frook and jacket or 4 frock and Jong coat. Then there are many silk pyits, the coat long or short ap you wish, and possiblli- tien of combination are many with plain and figured materials to work with, The silk suit that possesses a long ooat In a neutral color ean be made the background of a het weather wardrobe, for it can be matched, used with various prints and with little frocks in the charm« ing pastel tones, BRA Sh a-- OR the wee girl considers F fashion! And she is as insist. ont that her frooks and coats, no matter how amall thelr di- mensions, be as amart and as com- pletely In the mode as are her mother's. And she has her en: semblen and her afternoon and evening frooks--even though her formalities take place in the very early avening, just the same as her big _aister. The same influences of pique, broadcloth, voile, cotton mesh, gingham and linen -- which in always classed with cotton, of course. There are separate dresses and, there are dresses and jacket sults whieh combine plain fabries with figured ones, and most effec- tively, A charming little outfit ina shop window consisted of a hand- kerehief linen frock, a green ring dot on a white background, the coat A white ring dot on a mateh. Ing xreen background. Afternoon brings out the lus. ury cottons, and luxurious they really are, planned for wear with a broad-brimmed hat, and show- ing lovely touches of hand em- broidery, hand dmawnwork, pin tucks and laces. The very fine handkerchief linens, vofles and all. over embroidered batlstes make use of the baby ocelors, as pink, blue and pale yellow. And one de. mure little batiste dress wore a velvet sash of a deeper tone of the material--a symphony in soft, pale blue, We \ on into really formal things, keeping to cotton just the mame. Kate Greenway dresses of "aprigged" muslin (napire with the Directoire mode, and then thare are organdie evening frocks, the material worked inte the prevail. ing silhouette by artist hands, showing nothing of the robe de style lines that were Just a 10 pastels are the loveliest, and one oa A glimpes of a lace-edged petticoat underneath the hem: of the skirt. They are using cotton for ever 0 many things other than dresses and sults, They make fascinating y { berets of pique and there are knit They are vel therefore, infinitely desirable, in. sinuating that smartness into the blouse mode aa well as the dress ode. Paris stocking oaps--all of cotton, and some of the larger hats are made 0f starched pique or arash, (They are, frequently, matohed with a colt of the same material). They combine cotton with silk or satin which ahows that they think well Fashion Considers The are at work In the juvenile fash. fon world as are noted in general fashions. The suits of the grown-up are noted in models for the wee tot, who buttons the skirt to the shirt. waist for security, Coats wear capes and all of the detalls that are date marks on mature models Appear on freoka and costs for Miss Two-to-Bight, If sister Is eight her little coat of twill will have a oape, while the four-year. old will be a bit more severs In her tailored coat of the same ma. terial, It is considered very smart to wear sister outfits. Tdentieal sults of rep, made with pleated skirts, Nton jackets and tuck-in blouses may be had for Wee Girl planned to Nt the ages of the wear ors, using the same fabrics, but applying detalls that are different. Accessories are different only In size, the same little hat model an- centing the similarity that Wb stressed, although models of frocks and ocosts'are not really identical. The very small girl, who has not reached the skirt and blouse age, will be smart in a little frock that is pleated nll the way round, the pleats depending from a yoke or from tucks. er coat will be soal- loped, perhaps, all the way round ' the collar and down the revers and front closing, and it will be trim- youngsters from four to aight, even | Big to wise twelve, and there are frooks