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PAGE EIGHT Deep collared short sleeved Russian sable. Evening elegance in cape of Emba jasmine mink. ONTARIO TODAY Preview Of ions Debonair note is being added to the new fashion season BY MARGARET NESS URS are again in the fashion news. A couple of seasons back fur trim was everything and everywhere -- even to a black fox hemline on an evening gown. Last year fur went inside. High fashion coats were brilliant colored wools with fur as the lining. Many coats were rever- sible. The upcoming 1960-61 season is carry- ing over both of these fashions and adding a new debonair note of its own -- fur vestees, jerkins and weskits, to wear over a dress or with blouse and skirt and under your fur or cloth coat. In the Spring, Christian Dior of Paris even introduced a fur overblouse topped by a matching jacket. This will bear watch- ing if only from a fashion interest. For what St. Laurent of Dior's features one season usually is world-wide fashion the next. However, I cannot imagine many Ontario- women following this fur set fashion. Both budget and central heating would defeat it for most at the start. It's an obvious European idea, for cold homes and rambling country places. Even the fur vestee, weskit or jerkin is a luxury extra that just doesn't fit into the average budget unless worn under a winter cloth coat as an elegant warmer. Here, I think, is where the smart fashion- wise Ontario woman could very well think in terms of this fur concept. A fur weskit can take the place of a fur stole. It can be worn under a really smart coat (costs less than a fur coat) and then become the extra little fur for an air-conditioned dining-room or audi- torium. It has the added advantage of being very new. And no woman should resist a conversation piece in her wardrobe. Last year at the showings of the New York Couture Group for the fashion edi- tors, I did see one way to use fur that - could be most dramatic if you have your clothes made or make 'them yourself. This fur note is to line a stole made from the same wool material as your dress or suit. You could even use fur from your old fur coat. Such a stole makes a hand- some addition to a Fall wardrobe and provides sufficient warmth for many weeks. This is especially true for women who drive their own cars and in centres where parking isn't blocks away from your 'objective. If the fur-lined stole is wide and long SATURDAY, JuLy 30 enough, it could even be worn around the shoulders of your winter coat, fur side out, for those really wintry months. Carry the idea one step further. Make the fur lined stole a part of your cocktail or evening ensemble. It wouldn't be as expensive as a regulation fur stole. Since the fur would be on the inside, cheaper fur can be used. But whether or not you succumb to a stole, a jerkin or a vestee, you might well think in terms of a reversible fur- and-wool coat or a fur lining for your new coat. A number of winter-coat-rever- sibles were in the May showings at the ninth annual fur fashion preview of the Fur Trade Association of Canada (Quebec and Ontario division) held in Montreal this year. One sensational coat was a two-fur reversible, otter on one side and baby ocelet on the other Fur linings are not a new idea. From the Middle Ages on, fur was more fre- quently found on the inside than the outside of garments. In the 13th century wealthy men wore fur lined mantles of ermine, squirrel or marten and sported beaver hats. In the next century fur went outside, only to return to the inside of short fur capes in the 16th century. The following century featured a hiplength cape and again fur was on the inside, These fashions were for men. Women seem to have been relegated to fur trim- mings only. In the 18th century women at last came into their own with the Spencer, a short jacket named after Lord Spencer. The jacket was lined with fur for winter use. It was the famous couturier Worth who, around the middle of the next cen- tury, introduced women to long fur coats--as opposed to the previous capes and snug jackets. The equally famous Mainbocher re-introduced the fur lining during the war years, 1940-46. So we actually have a long tradition for the acceptance of fur used on the inside. Also gaining acceptance even in our cold Ontario winters is the standway neck- line for fur coats and jackets. This open neck came in a couple of seasons ago via Dior and at first was confined to extreme fashion furs. Now, however, Toronto fur designer Mary McInnis (sister to come- dienne Barbara Hamilton of revue and