THE OSHAWA TIMES, Seturdey, July 25,1964 17 "BUST BARING BOOM ' ~~ Decadence, Delight t Too Much? gnify|a Lana Turner, Ja Marilyn Monroe, Jgine Mans- field and other f heroines based their appeal, to becom- ing what the psychologists eu- tically term a vanishing is zone? In other words, chaps, are we welcoming too mich of a good thing in the latest fashions? Designers of the new fashions probably never considered t implications of their act while they wielded their drawing pens and scissors. They probably never gave a second thought to what be- came of the glory that was Greece and the grandeur that was Rome when their maidens, in a fit of fashion, divested themselves of their vests and pranced about the Acropolis and the Forum in their funda- menta. The designers' defiant cry of "damn the decolletage, full scissors ahead" probably never even contained an echo of what happened to the ancient Minoan civilization on the isle of Crete when the girls dropped their necklines out of sight. PAST EFFECTS If, as Thomas Carlyle as- sumed and most modern an-| thropologists accept, costume is a criteria of assessing past civilizations, then the time has tome to halt this vulgar paw- ing at the ready-to-wear racks long enough to consider what befell bygote societies that bravely undraped before a startled if not downright. hos- tile world. And what precisely did befall 'them? "Nothing much, really," con- ceded Dr, Robert Murphy, pro- fessor of anthropology at Col- umbia University and an expert "on Brazilian Indian tribes that nip about the jungle in the 'nude. " "Ever since Gibbon wrote The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire we have come to associate the vigor and viril- ity of a society with the extent : . Women, you bosoms i their. Queen Elizabeth's court and this was a time of great intel- lectual vigor for England: The age of explorations and the growth of industrial capital- ism. It was also a damn bawdy * period." Dr. Murphy is amused that the Russians should look upon the topless bathing suit as a sign of decadence, "considering that in the early days of the revolution women swam in the nude at Black Sea resorts. I don't know to what extent this he anthropologist, in| Din ('nothing much before and rimitive arts at the Brooklyn Museuia, gints to the peek-a- boo Empire gowns of Napol- eon's period as an example of tion flourishing with- out visible means of support above the waist. ; As a student of man's, and less often woman's constant striving for ornamentation and adornment, Mrs. Rosen thal doubts that the new shock frocks and demi-~bikinis will eventually wind up in a total lack of costume. 'These topless things undoubtedly are a fur- courage covering the female bosom, but the older civiliza- tions of India and southeast Asia seé nothing wrong with ex- posing it. In Bali, it's a mark of feminine beauty. I once worked with a tribe of nomads in North Africa who covered the lower portion of their faces, the way Victorian women held their hands across their mouths when they Jaughed." RELATIVE MODESTY ' As John Langdon-Davies said in his essay on "The Future of ther kind of or tation. They may result in a counter- action that would bring us back' to Victorian prudery but they won't end up in nudity." Both the archeologist and the however, feel that if the new fashion trend catches on, the bosom could be on the way out. "Familiarity," insists arche- ologist Rosenthal, "breeds bore- dom." "Tt you admit the possibility, and I don't concede the prob- ability, that this could catch on," says anthropologist Mur- phy, 'it could actually be very healthy for America, No other society is so- obsessed with the bosom." ON WAY OUT Their views are enthusiastic- ally endorsed by assistant cur- ator Dorothy Tricarico of the Brooklyn Museum's design lab- oratory, where fashion design- ers from all over the world come to study the costumes of past civilizations. | "This is the end of the road for the bosom," she said, as much in sorrow as in support of science. "The minute you start undressing . . . the excitement diminishes from that part of the anatomy. It's like having too much candy. Just a little glimpse of the ankle proved quite exciting to the male in Victorian times. When skirts became shorter, legs no longer held his fascination and he had to look elsewhere for a satis- factory visual erogenous zone." As the world's leading prac- titioners of the bared bosom for esthetic purposes, the ladies of the ensemble of the Folies Ber- gere find themselves seriously and professionally at odds with the professors and the curators. Featured dancer Marion Con- rad whose public costume each night is straight out of Gunga rather less than 'arf of that be- hind'), is convinced that the topless bathing suit will be a boon to all female figures. "People will become more health-conscious. They'll begin getting themselves in trim." EMANCIPATES WOMEN Her views are shared by Marcella Hude of Paris and who are billed in the show sim- ply as "nudes." 'Personally I like this new fashion," volun- teered Miss Hude from behind was ac protest pourgeois morality, but it is ob- vious that Russia's political) radicalism has devolved in re- cent times into a cloying cul- fural conservatism that inhibits its literature and art." NOT TOTAL NUDITY Similarly, archeologist Jane Powell Rosenthal, curator of Mission Aids In Training Cast Off Girls VANCOUVER (CP)--An inter- denominational Christian mis- sion in India is turning rejected girls into sought-after brides. It uses the Hindu and Mos- fem custom of arranged mar- giages and finds the system works "surprisingly well." The story of the Ramabai Mukti Mission in India's Poona district near Bombay is tc!d by) ' Lillian Doerksen of Vancouver, | the vantage point of a plumed helmet and little else. "I'm a vegetarian and I like all things in their natural. state.'"' "It's simply marvelous," added Miss Barker, adjusting a sequin to windward. 'Women have been waiting for a long jtime to be emancipated from |masculine ideas of what beauty |should be." y Oddly enough, both the pro- fessors and the demimoiselles of the Folies were in agreement that the bared bosom is not per se an object of shame. In the history of clothing, many areas of the body have been associ- ated with a sense of shame. "Most civilizations, but not all,' said Dr. Murphy, "'cover up the lower portion of the body. A sense of shame, how- ever, is. relative. The Chinese go in for foot binding. Judaism, Marion Barker of New York,| gymnes "It is instructive to consider the results of surprising a mod- est woman in her bath in var- ious countries: A Mohammedan woman would cover her face, a Laotian woman would cover her breasts; a Chinese would hide her feet; in Sumatra and the Celebes hands would at once endeavor to conceal the knee; in Samoa it would be the naval; in Alaska the woman would make all haste to re- place the ornamental plug which she wears in her lip." Man, as Carlyle pointed out, is a 'clothed animal," probably the only creature in creation who adorns himself. Down through the ages man has employed a wide variety of masks, wigs, helmets, tunics, tattoos, trousers, body paints, dental mutilations, toupees, uni- forms, overalls and other hab- adashery to cover his naked- ness and satisfy his vanity, superstitions, warlike proclivi- ties, seeking of protection from the weather and sense of be- longing. As soon as arboreal man swung down from the treetops to fraipse along the jungle floor in quest of unfriendly fauna, his primal instinct was to or- nament his body. We still don't know for a certainty, however, whether he first reached for a fig leaf or a feather for his coif- fure. Either way, the adorn- ment. distinguished him from the apes and henceforth no self - respecting pithecanthro- pus erectus could mistake a gorilla for his brother or, much worse, his sister. Or vice versa. BIKINI ISN'T NEW The whole business of fashion may have had its beginnings on that dark day in the mists of antiquity when a Hotten tot maiden administered history's first home permanent. Nothing has been the same since, and yet nothing has changed either. There is noth- ing really new under the fash- ion sun, not even the bikini, which the Romans introduced in the fourth century. Bare- busted maidens were common among the early Etruscans and Phoenicians, Greek athletes al- ways performed in the nude, a practice that gave us our word gymnast, from the Greek word meaning naked. Many of the Grecian god- desses appeared naked on the urns that Keats celebrated, but the brainier ones, it must be noted, always covered up. The Egyptians wore such diaphan- ous gowns as would today bring a blush to the dimpled cheeks of most of our extroverted screen sex goddesses. : While the Danes and the Swedes and other north Euro- peans are resorting more and more to nude mixed bathing, the emerging African nations) are making their women cover) up as a sign of progress. Costume customs seem to come and go in the weird cycles that only the -world of fashion can fathom. On one side of the globe, North American women are being called upon to display more of themselves. 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The babies are taken to the mission, which gives medical aid and sanctuary to 750 to 800 girl orphans and Indian widows, The orphans are given elemen- tary and sometimes high school and university education. - ARE IN DEMAND "Our girls are much in de- mand as wives. Unlike most In- dian girls, they are educated, and educated Indian men now are looking for women who have} the same literacy skills they do." The mission arranges mar- riages, in keeping with local) custom, in order to ensure the Dear Dr, Molner: I read that a 12ounce bottle of beer is| equivalent to one and a half ounces of whisky, alcohol-wise. This hardly seems possible when you consider the low alco- hol content of beer. Would you explain?S.J.T. Yes, This column is dedicated to helping health, not to being a bartender's guide, but the question is worth answering be- cause I get so many inquiries about "whether a person can become an alcoholic if he drinks only beer."' (The answer is yes, he can.) A strong brew (ale, porter, etc.) can be as high in -alcohol as one and a half ounces of any except the most.potent whiskies: The average beers are some- what less. be precise), | Now take your ounce of 86) proof whisky. The 86 proof! means 86 per cent, or .43 ounce) of alcohol. The bottle of beer! has slightly MORE alcohol. The brews that go up to five} and six per cent or more can| substantially top an ounce of| even the powerful 100 proof} bonded whiskies, | Dear Dr, Molner: I am 19 and| have an acne problem, A doc-| tor put me on a diet, but my | condition has improved only to} a certain extent. I get lumps | on my back and sometimes on} the back of my head. Some- times they open, but some just seem to stay all the time. My biggest concern is cancer. Is that a possibility?--C.K. | Stop worrying about cancer. Most lumps are NOT cancer. 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