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Page ialurdaj Septembers 19S3 Fashion Furor over fur is affecting designs Book Review FASHION MARY MARTIN vice president of the American Fur Industry From the designer collec tions youll find duffles and parkas in furs such as sheared beaver in a soft sage green or in a silk satinlined mink Another favorite are furs Wearing fur is not a new notion It even mentioned in Genesis Chapter Three when God decided to make coats of skins for Adam and Eve However after nearly six years of active protest by animal rights groups here and abroad some design ers on both sides of the Atlantic have said enough And some have started designing skins in a less conspicuous way OSCAR la designed this full- length swingstyle natural mink for Wagner Pur Bill Blass no longer designs furs And In Milan a few months back Giorgio Armani placed stuffed ani mals on the runway and with the aid of a hidden microphone they thanked the designer for saving our skins Fendl Is well known as a fur innova tor but this year the innovation might have been politically inspired endorsed reversible furs Said Carla one of the sisters There was a feeling in the air that this was not a time for an overdose of fur Donna Karan who whipped up deli cious pastel colored shearling parkas and hooded duffle coats for fall said of her designs for Birger Chnstensen This is not the year to flaunt fur She chose a simple presentation of her collection in her showroom Other fur trends for fail could make a case that animal rights are on more consumers minds than be lieved Blazers and boleros use less fur shearling coats especially duf fles and parkas are using less and less fur and reversible coats with fur linings look right In a time when obvi ous luxury might look insensitive According to Sandy Blye executive Jahnvtnce Bulk Foods FOR ALL YOUR BAKING NEEOS OPEN DAYS N Whoever the customer todays fur purchases are likely to reflect the in dividnals personal threshold of acceptability Given their warmth longevity and Some designers are walking a middle line creatively mixing fabrics and using skins in a less conspicuous way terned to look like plaids stripes or even corduroy Furs are also paired with leather tweed or multicolored tapestries Granted these are fashion trends for the new fall collections we didnt see furs quite this way last year although the designer Moscbino did suggest that mlniscule stuffed am circling an evening dress was far better than the real thing Now a year later there Is a pervading sense that a grand sweep of mink and sable is not the way to go Other designers and manufactur ers however seem more content to walk a middle line by relying on cre ative mixes of fur with other fabrics using less fur in smaller pieces or making alternative suggestions such as fur as linings or trim Two mega fur trends right now come from Calvin Klem One is the shearling duffle coat and Kleins ver sion in a pale champagne color retails for around Another his fur- trimmed anorak has appeared in ev ery major fashion publication and skirts that animals rights issue beau tifully the hood is trimmed in coy ote but the coat is made of micro- fiber a new type of polyester with the feel of suede The Fur Information Council of America which was formed three years ago as a liason between retail ers and the Department of Justice other law enforcement agencies and the press claims the animal rights movement has had minimal effect on the fur industry We really dont believe that the an imal rights movement has had any ef fect on the American fur market to date said Tom Riley the councils vice president for public relations Retail fur sales figures in this country leveled off at about 8 billion two years ago after an extraordinary growth for about 10 years prior SCAASIs winter 89 collection for Mohl Fur Co features fitted ranched- in the classic trench style luxury furs will probably never be out of style for many For others there are all kinds of new ways to wear something that has been with us since the beginning Oil NEWSPAPER ENTERPRISE Clothing Bill In 198 billion was spent on clothing in the Unit ed States That averages out to for each man woman and child Mad Money Studies show that 54 per cent of families argue about money N0W SERVING Hot Coffee Delicious Sandwiches Passive Reducing Exclusive Ladies Salon Watch for Opening specials 8734907 116 GuelphSt Rear Entrance Georgetown Your Dependable Home Cleaning Service Specializing in House Cleaning For Particular People LigM CALL US FOR A FREE 8761672 or 8731386 DAY CARE Programs for children 2 up Nutritious meals i Ample inside and outside facilities to develop physically and mentally Experienced child workers on staff MAPLE ROCK DAY CARE CENTRE How did allies treat the Germans By JOHN THOMPSON James Bacque in Other Losses one of the most controversial books in years charges that some Allied leaders particularly Gen Eisenhower were responsible for the deaths of hundreds of thousands of German prisoners These prisoners are alleged to have died from deliberate neglect in American and French camps in Europe after the surrender of Nazi Germany The book title stems from the term other losses used in tallies of prisoners says the term was used to hide deaths mainly caused by disease exposure and starvation in camps indifferently administered by the S Army The ultimate author of these deaths Gen Eisenhower himself of German extraction used a cabal of military administrators to generate and perpetuate ioi ditions and hide eudenct charges Bacque In Other Losses 26 95 272 pages he savs In Commission of the Red Cross journalists aid workers and other national leaders were kept from the truth misleading reports and the denial of ad support to inspection learns Bacque alleges thai numbers of documents were destroyed or altered later on and a cover story was generated to pro Eisenhower and preserve German American relations In short a giant conspiracy of silence blanketed the story of the camps Much of the author s evidence and a great many of his assump tions stem from weekly sum manes on numbers of and DEFs Disarmed Enemy Forces An audit of the tallies shows a con siderable number of discrepancies in total numbers It is from these discrepancies that the author deduced the existence of a crime of mass murder It is this reliance on discrepancies that make the author s contentions somewhat questionable The author also makes a great play of orders to cut the rations available to the German prisoners The prisoners were entitled to the same ration scale as the S com bat troops who needed around GEORGETOWN SPA FITNESS CENTRE EXCLUSIVELY YOURS 8771924 calories per day in the field an adult male normally needs about 1 800 Although hammers pom I after point into his case many points are too soft or too brittle to stick Moreover he was unaware or unwilling to acknowledge other circumstances or factors that might have affected the prisoner count The final accounting rolls of the German forces do list many miss ing The Soviets captured 93 or Was it 107000 Or Wehrmacht soldiers at Stalingrad Less than 000 are known to have returned home and the were released in Survivors of Stalin camps relate that hun of thousands of Germans died them however merely dismisses this issue as a red herring used to divert attention from deaths American camps What about the transfer of cap tives to the Soviets B near l per cent of the Wehrmacht were nonGermans most from Eastern Europe The British transfer the of Russians in Germ uniform to the Soviet tender mercies Although iht Americans would now be verv about admitting to transferring to the Soviet Army surelj Bacqut might have looked for evidence of this There is hardly any mention of the condition of the surrendering Germans in this book By April of Germany had collapsed as had its logistic infrastructure Many Germans entered captivitv already diseased and famished To this must be added despair and depression arising from defeat factors that would accelerate the death rate even in a healthy population This book is of passing interest to historians Conspiracy buffs should like it John Thompson Is the Research and Information Officer at the Canadian Institute of Strategic Studies Toronto MM meat shop OPEN 7 DAYS 8732151 Man Wed 6pm Saturday 9am 10am Sunday HOME PRODUCTS LTD NO one ever regretted buying quality Custom Design Installation THERMAL REPLACEMENT WINDOWS STANLEY THERMAL ENTRANCE DOORS PATIO DOORS SOFFIT FACIA AND SIDING PATIO DECKS AND FENCING NEW ADDITIONS CUSTOM DESIGNED BAY AND BOW WINDOWS ALUMINIUM AWNINGS AND SHUTTERS ELEGANT VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL SHADES CALLTODAY FREE ESTIMATES AJIWOrkgiiarantoad No Obligation to Purchase QUALITY CR1DIBILITY