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THE HERALD OUTLOOK Saturday October IMS Fashion Simply successful Nancy Heller cashes in on the casual The face tells all By Rocbelle Chadikoff Casual comfortable dressing is how Nancy Heller aptly describes the designs that have made her a success for almost two decades Sophisticated simplicity suits Heller to a T espe cially if as in T shirt It was a Tshirt that launched her line years ago It was indeed an auspicious start She was discovered in the true sense of the word It has the makings of a legend like actress Turner being spotted in a soda shop Heller went to a Midler con cert wearing a Tshirt of her own ere It had an elastic nock and a lot of embroidery says Heller who re calls that at time she had just had a baby and was doing some home sewing including jackets for Cher and Diana Ross That embroidered T shirt caught the eye of Herb Fink a Los An retailer He ordered 30 shirts for his store and when they sold out he ordered more perfect wardrobe for California moderate climate Im definitely a Californiabred designer says Heller who admits that she loathes getting dressed up Ill wear a Tshirt or a very unde signed piece from my line like my knit sweatshirt or a cashmere card NANCY HELLER broke into retail with a Tshirt design so its fitting that she collects Tshirts While Heller brings back a modi fied version of that first Tshirt every five years or so her current staple is a simple with a sweet center bow and gently padded shoulders accentu ated by rows of overstitching The bright colors of her shortsleeved model have made it a hit for the last two years For autumn 89 shes adapted this bestseller by using long sleeves on mellow knits Its one of those pieces that goes with everything and a natu ral companion to her new stonewashed denim sweat pants as well as an wayto highlight the tailoring of her gabardine blazer with the extra dash of a yoke and self sash That blazer is the perfect example of the little bit of fashion that Heller has added to her line Ive grown up over these explains the de signer whose fall line Includes beau tifully tailored pants a full skirt and a straight skirt the dashing blazer and a whimsical cropped jacket with buttons going from the collarless neckline to the rounded hem Heller is equally comfortable using cashmere or corduroy as cotton or light wool Her fabrics make her clothes easy to wear during fashions fifth season the transition be tween summer and autumn and a Jnhnvtnce Bulk Food OPEN 7 DAYS 8734442 RESHAPE FAST With The SETMEFREE BODY WRAP SJwtt Ho Cram Ko Effort years ago she introduced her sophis ticated simplicity to the plussize market What next A lowerpriced line claims Heller who reallzesthat most women collect her designer line And on the horizon The designer thinks that her son 18yearold Jonas a freshman at American University in She was discovered like actress Turner being spotted in a soda shop An ideal evening look She adds jewelry to a cashmere ensemble of pants sweater and cardigan Hellers cashmere ensemble costs about and many of her pieces are priced between and Heller who says that her allaround customer is between 22 and ships her designs to 700 stores across the country including her flagship store in San Francisco I was lured into retail says Hell er adding another chapter to her suc cess story Sheldon Gordon the owner of the San Francisco Centre asked her to set up a store Opened last year the streamlined store is a perfect backdrop for her designs It has at traded so many customers that Hell er is considering opening more stores in Southern California She seems at ease with her expand ing company which generated about million In This year she in troduced her denims because the buy ers from department stores like in San Francisco Blooming- dales and Saks Fifth Avenue thought they would be a natural complement to her line Hell er added some distinctive touches such as tapering the jeanleg into a sweat pant cuff and using corduroy to trim her toggle buttoned jacket She also expanded her outerwear line One of her biggest moves was to in troduce a menswear line in 1986 Its a lot of work admits Heller But her efforts have been recognized In she won the California Designer of the Year Award and last year she was nominated for the Cutty Sark Award for Excellence in Menswear Fashion Heller plans to concentrate on ex panding her line for women Five Washington DC would be a perfect business partner So someday it might be Nancy Heller and Son By Mary Martin Nlepold The face this fall will be a hallmark of the American woman who feels confident about who she is and who believes that naturalness is the best signal of her selfimage Gone are the Hollywood red lips of a year ago Here are the barely blushed cheeks and smoky eyes of a woman who would rather be noticed than stared at face Is very natural observes Nancy vice president and di rector of training for Lauder The cheek color is very subtle and very sheer The lips are very much the focus of the face and still they are very warm and very bright This years bright lips however are bright with shades of pumpkin not fire engine red The hottest news really for fall Is color Swenson continues It mir rors exactly what you see in ready-to- wear fashions The colors are rich fall foliage colors with the pumpkin fam ily as the star Gale owner of a new cos metic company agrees that orange is the big makeup news for fall Hay- man cofounder of the famous Gior gio of Beverly Hills boutique and cre ator of the topselling fragrance Giorgio has now launched her own cosmetic line Gale Beverly Hills mistakeproof makeup system is based on eye color since hair color and skin color can change The biggest trend for is oranges she says Reds are out or anges are In Nail polish should be neutral Peach blushes and nude foun dations give you a less bard more natural look Orange per lias never been a successful color for cosmetics since its yellow undertones clash with too many skin types particularly those skins with blue undertones Conse quently the true cosmetic story is about pumpkins peaches and coral tones At Lauder their lead color for lipstick is Perfect Pumpkin At Hayman Ripe Peach Is suggested for blue eyes At Wild Ber ries is the fall cosmetic theme with emphasis on deeper richer bluer berry tones If lips are the focus of the face re member to keep that focus softer than in past seasons Lips are warm this year explains Swenson They dont shout quite so much as last year Along with the pumpkin palette for lips Is the same color family for cheeks The look for cheeks Is very sheer and subtle says The look you want to achieve Is as if you have just come In from a brisk walk an allover glow Subtlety defines the eyes as well Smoky eyes in browns greys and plums are endorsed by almost all of the major cosmetic companies In cluding Tony Michaels vice president of marketing for Lancome says The smoky this year The point Is to look neutral but theres depth and dimension Sepia and mal achite tones are suggested Another makeup trend for eyes this fall Includes the way in which eyes are colored According to Lauder Swenson You want to apply your eyeshadows so they look like a very subtle wash of color Lining under the eyes is becoming more and more ImaMor a more natural look A hard line under the eye is out she continues Essentially the face this tan is a healthy interpretation of beauty Think in terms of that brisk walk a face flushed and glowing from a good work out STONEWASHED DENIM gets a touch of style with a shawl collar in corduroy and toggle Fashions For The Young At Heart MAM ST S GEORGETOWN from Knox Church 8732851 MM meat shops OPEN 7 DAYS 8732151 Mon Wed Saturday 6pm Than 8pm Sunday 5pm YOU ARE INVITED Passive Reducing Exclusive Ladies Salon your fitness Centre 12MqSI