Fashion Outlook HILLS OUTLOOK Saturday February a Down the aisle Bridal offerings are updated classics By Joan Its no surprise to learn that down the aisle in will come romantic wedding gowns that are long and while lacy and beaded ruffled and bowed But this season has its own subtle yet distinctive details in eluding new colors and deep backs that will appeal to brides modern fashion sense Moreover top bridal designers each add their own point of view to traditional wedding dresses Their design signatures are as personal and varied as their backgrounds Prank Masandrca his bridal design career in the 1960s While still a student at the Fashion Institute of Technology be worked part time for the display department at Lord Taylor In New York City Alter show his freelance designs to the bridal buyer who commissioned him to do an exclusive collection or the store his career was launched In teamed up with businessman Paul Diamond Hasan drea dramatic and lavish pure silk for the Diamond Collection mix cere monial formality with fashionsmart and sometimes sexy details Masandrea says For the dresses are very romantic There are ball gowns bustles crinolines and tiers of fabric Itsjostllkewbats revealing wedding dresses Brides longer want high necklines they want something off the- shoulder and bare he says This year he adds there Is less lace on many gowns and beads and lace are both more strategically placed Finally he stresses the lance of color Each year designers introduce one or two pale pink gowns for the rare bride who eschews white But In 19B8 many designers are showing peach pale blue mint and especially pink gowns Most provide an underlayer of color with an overlay of white tissue taffeta for a frosted effect A master of that technique is Pris cilia Kidder president of of Boston Kidder and her husband opened The Bride a Shop on Boston Newbury Street In 1B4S got national renown for and Julie Nixon and coordinating their White House weddings While some gowns are or nate most arc characterized by an el simplicity Kidder helped popu larite raw stubbed silk as a wedding gown fabric and uses it In her frosted dresses which are just a blush white Ivory and white are far and away the most popular hues and sweeping ballgown shapes are the fa silhouettes always worn with a petticoat But Kidder also likes a shade she calls French vanilla a no -quite- asclassic alternative to the basics The bridal business has become all seasons Kidder says We use all types of fabrics year round She notes that higher priced silks are prevalent in designer gowns today From left Priscilla Chi Da silk gown with basque bodice and full ballgown skirt and lace tiara atop a waltz length laceedged mantilla Imported lace gown beaded with qnini beads and pearls with silk cblf ton detachable cape from Katiura asymmetrical hip with nigh necked bodice of and pearled lace and cathedral length train dress 1 15 SO headpiece about by Frank Masandrea for be Diamond Collection Has Changed Locations Nowat152GuelphSI Georgetown Formerly Fashion Trend COMING SOON Esthetics Make up a Nails Colour Boutique 8732027 while rayon and polyester were once more Important There is a trend toward sheers like organdies or beautiful tulle on dress she continues The girls want to float down the aisle There Is less beading on the newest gowns she says because the bride wants to call attention to her face not her clothes As for short skirts the veteran bridal designer will have none of it 1 tried It in the 60s and dldnt sell a dress so 1 not going to do It this time It fine for cocktail parties and dancing but not for a bride More adventurous brides will be in to seek out the unique gowns of fashion rebel Katsura Katsura has been selling to American stores since 1381 Her gowns embody some basic bridal guidelines they are elaborate long and white then they break all the rules Trained in the theater and the art of costume design led fashion in Paris She returned to Tokyo and In 1963 presented the first Western style bridal show In Japan where brides have traditionally worn only kimonos Katsura was exposed to white lacy as a fashion student In France et her own designs are far less sweet and demure than those of her counter parts in the United States and Europe The designer favors senuously body silhouettes with de tachable trains ruffles niching and style pleats and unabashed bare backs and plunging necklines Some of her fabrics are hand painted Today bride is highly Individual is tic sexy adventuresome and self as she says This year Katsura has merged some Asian and Western Influences designing with ki monolike sleeves and shapes In Japan Katsura Is a national tele vision star as well as a renowned de signer and her flair for drama is ways apparent Her bridal house headquarters in Tokoyo Is a giant ro cocostyle building that resembles a wedding cake Butshehasa tradition side too has written four books published In Japan on weddings and wedding etiquette earning 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