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Page 10 THE HERALD OUTLOOK Saturday November 18 1989 Travel Take the high road to the Scottish Highlands By NADEAU HeraldSpecial The following article is the third in a four part series on Scotland Leaving the big cities behind we find the heart of Scotland in the highlands and islands the beautiful North Sea the castle and the whisky trails the port cities of Aberdeen and Dundee Heading north from and Glasgow the route takes us by the greygold beauty of Loch Lo mond famous in song and memory and surely one of the most roman tic of the romantic lochs in the country There can be few ex periences as evocative as walking along the quiet shores in the even ing and hearing a piper playing in the hills The essence of Scotland captured in a silvery moment The road to the Highlands is simply stunning steep hills green countryside flowing burns few people Oban is the big centre on north west side heading up to Oban is picturesque but extremely crowded it is a tourist town without a first class hotel or restaurant The crowds can jar in an area where isolation is the norm There ire ferries playing the islands from Oban and it is a required stop if you plan to go to many of the islands of the Inner Hebrides Further north is the preferred gateway to Skye the Kyle of Lochalsh where a four minute ferry ride takes you to Kyleakin Skye is a magnificent place rainy and misty much of the time but this only adds to its mystery and primeval appeal The black and red peaks of the Cuillin hills are often hidden in clouds but they loom over the centre of the island and Sligachan is the perfect stopp ing place for any attempted con quest Not for the shape or amateur walkers Portree is the very pretty capital of the island with a lovely harbor surrounded by pastel colored houses and shops An evening in the Portree Hotel was one of the most entertaining Ive ever spent We went in to hear Bathtime a snaredrum and guitar duo we had heard before and admired greatly however we found more than music to entertain us Local color included Stuarts the guitarist story of his visit tc the garage in the town where hi spent fifteen minutes talking to fellow who assured him a leaky would be pro- to fix and cheap as well When Stuart asked if he could br ing his van in the next day the fellow said I dont know mate I dont work here do I Do you mind moving your van theres a hearse coming in and sure enough there was Or how about Socks a local bartender In his late fifties Socks is so named because he likes to wear his pants high and tight and stuffs a pair of socks down them And hes been known to steal ladies underwear off the clotheslines so we call him Socks the Knicker Knocker Pauline the pintsized drummer told us this in her lilting accent Och there are no secrets on a small island Castle is a most wor thwhile stop on the island On the western side it is the centuriesold home of the MacLeod clan and the oldest inhabited castle in Britain Billed as Romantic and Historic Dunvegan Castle it is certainly that and more Set in a fairytale location the castle is still the residence of the MacLeod chieftain and his family Fort William is the home of Ben Nevis the most wellknown peak in the Highlands it is again a touristy town and limited in its ap peal Inverness is the big centre of the Highlands and quite a pretty place More than the scenery though it is the people in this area and the history that make it so special This is the land of the clans of Bonnie Prince Charlie Flora Mac- Culloden Glencoe the clearances Glorious and terrible Highland history draws you in makes you feel part of something tragic and beautiful Men still wear kilts at dinner up here flows faster than wine Not that theres a lack of the grape You are not a tourist in the Highlands youre a guest and a welcome one Leaving the Highlands very reluctantly the trail heads to the North East to Aberdeen the Granite City Dont let this name put you off Aberdeen is a scenic meat shops OPEN DAYS WWsV to pass time touring malt distilleries including the world famous Glenfiddich which also is the most visited of the distilleries The best thing about this tour is that you can sample a wee dram at each stop The Castle Trail covers nine castles some in ruins but many lived in including the fairytale Craigievar Castle The splendid Castle boasts several ghosts Moving south we come to Dundee the City of Discovery The Discovery was Scotts ship it was built in Dundee and sailed to the Antarctic although it was not the ship Scott used on his last fatal voyage Now it is back at its bir thplace and it is a majestic sight what an emotional experience to walk around the decks sit in the dining room see Scotts cabin Its a beautiful ship but a small place to spend two years trapped in ice Moving down the coast to Angus the castle was built is part of the Grand Tour of Scotland which features six castles including Scone Palace and Hopetoun House Aside from seasonal tours of the castle visitors can arrange for dinner parties and banquets in the beautiful diningroom We lunched in that room which features beautiful woodwork and a gorgeous ceiling The castle holds many photographs and mementoes of the Royal Family and it is quite fascinating to follow the Queen Mothers life in pictures and keep sakes A 90th birthday celebration is being planned in her honor next August Glamis combines graceful rooms history and medieval at mosphere making it one of the finest castles in the country Places to stay on this route in clude Craigmonie Hotel in In verness a pleasant old house the own It offers spa facilities and a very genial host Derek Moffat In Aberdeen we stayed at the Skean Dhu Hotel which was new and near the airport but very com fortable If the country appeals to you there is the impressive todrie House Hotel which dates to and offers beautiful food and lovely grounds and sports facilities It is only 17 miles from Aberdeen Nearing Edinburgh we stayed at House in Kinrossshire Parts of the building date to and the 17 bedrooms are decorated in Laura Ashley fabrics The food is excellent and the fireside bar a welcome sight after a hard days touring Next week Ghoulies and Ghost ies and Things That Go Bump in the Night Dunveagan Castle home of the Clan MacLeod since the early thirteenth century is one of the most wellkept castles in Scotland Located on the Isle of Skye Dunveagan is one of the moat popular tourist attractions in Scotland Photo submitted town It is the for off shore drilling in the north Sea this makes for a busy airport and har bor but it still leaves an unspoiled beach right outside the town The university is old and the campus attractive and the old town of Aberdeen is extremely quaint and picturesque Duthie Park is an in teresting place it features a splen did botanical garden complete with budgies and flying about the greenhouses Aberdeen itself boast miles of roses and the most sunshine hours of anywhere in Scotland In the Gordon District around Aberdeen there are several trails to be followed the Quality Trail the Whisky Trail and the Castle Trail The Quality Trail involves stops at several manufacturers such as Crombie Woollen Mills and Baxters of- Speyside Baxters is famous for their soup and jams and features tours and a nice shop Crombies is Scotlands largest woollen mill The Whisky Trail Is a jolly way we arrive at one of Scotlands most beautiful castles Glamis Home of the Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne Glamis was the childhood home of the Queen Mother and Princess Margaret was born here The castle was given to the family in 1372 by the king of Scotland Shakespeare set Macbeth there although that king lived a couple of centuries before PAMPER YOURSELF With Facials Pedicures Waxing Also Massage Therapist Stephen Brandt omee Exclusively yours fitness Centre Passive Reducing Exclusive Ladies Salon fief Tanning Manicure Beds Table 8734907 Guelph St Rear Entrance Georgetown It seems that every time you turn around you hear that 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