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February Manila Capital of The Philippines We were trying to cross the street when out of the blue a Barrage of buses bore down upon us trumpeting their horns like a herd of enraged elephants In a shiver of chrome they zoomed across the Junction weaving in and out In a deathdefying race to ibe next set of lights That was our introduction to jeepneys the flashy colorful vehicles that are the main form of transport Manila capital of the Philippines evolved from the Jeeps left behind by American troops during World War II but the buses of today bear little resemblance to the utilitarian military motors are painted all the colors of the rainbow and theyre covered with chrome accessories Horses five abreast prance across the hoods Flags garlands and religious relics dangle from the win dows Saucy slogans such as I Love you Truly One More Time and Be Mine Tonight scream their messages all over the front Female figures sprawl across the paintwork On one I spotted a voluptuous lie lady vying for space with no less a personage than the Virgin Mary complete with halo and the Infant Jesus Filipinos are deeply religious the country Is per cent Roman Catholic but at the same tune superstitious and the Jeepneys are In a sense like Manila itself vibrant gaudy and exotic Its a fast paced exciting destination for a holiday but certainly not the place to choose If you want a quiet time far from the madding crowd The Philippines Is made up of over islands They lie off the southeast coast of Asia between Taiwan to the north and Borneo to the south The country has traded for centuries with the Chinese and it has been ruled by both Spain and the United States a colonial legacy that has produced a handsome people of mixed blood who characteristically combine the Oriental wish to please with the Latin love of flam boyance passion and drama About eight million people live In Manila and as Is the case in so many Asian cities there Is a startling contrast between the rich and the poor old and the new Beggars are a common sight and the sprawling Tondo district has tome of the worst slums In the world Intramuros the old walled city was built by the Spanish in the middle of the century a supermodern enclave of hotels offices stores and resUurants is a bustling business section on the south side of the city Many of Manilas best restaurants are on or around Ave Here you find every conceivable kind of cuisine Chinese Spanish Japanese Malay American and Indonesian to name but a few Manila which Is on the ocean is renowned for Its seafood and we opted for dining at the Zamboanga 16739 Ave an eatery that is famous for lb fish dishes As far as accommodation goes Manila is wellgeared to visitors Several of the chain organizations Hilton Mandarin Inns Hyatt Regency and InterContinental have hotels here and rooms average for a single S for a double The Manila Hotel InRlzal Park Is a grand old colonial establishment straight out of Somerset Maughams era with a huge pillared lobby chandeliers and potted palms In the dining room The hotel has recently been refurbished and a single room rents for US a double for S The good hotels fall Into the category and although you can find accommodation for as little as per night Manila Isnt really the kind of place where visitors should stay in a rundown area Nor Is it wise to wander down alleyways at night Robberies and street fights are not un common though one suspects people often start just for the sheer hell of it and the Marcos government has from time to time Imposed a military curfew Durng the daytime theres certainly little chance of anything sinister happening even in Intramuros the old walled part of town The walls once stretched around the city for threeandaquarter miles but like the city they contain they have been badly damaged down the years by earthquakes typhoons and military attacks Manila bore the brunt of some of the worst air raids of World War II and In IMS when the Americans liberated the city from the Japanese the handsome Spanish cathedral was bombed to smithereens A couple of statues survived and they have been Incor porated Into a new cathedral constructed In 1KB San Augustln another fine colonial church somehow managed to escape the bombardment which Is more than can be said for Fort Santiago All that remains of Is a couple of crumbling walls One pile of ruins has been made into an openair theatre Another surrounds a shrine commemorating Jose Rizal the freedom fighter who founded the Philippine League In to fight for liberation from the Spanish Hotels and travel organizations run organized tours around Intramuros which take about three to four hours We did most of our exploring on foot and after a couple of days we even plucked up the courage to Jump on a After over our initial fear we started to enjoy the ram- bunctlous roaring around but then we chose a bus that bore the slogan Jesus will get you there which was just as well really since if wed had to on the driver we might never have made It home For further Information call Ross Travel at Georgetown lowers charter fares toLondon April 30 a Ma departures couple Return from London 7 14 or 28 days later May 7 id May 2 d pnc Now only May t May 2 May28 29jg Save up to JLJ JNowoniy Sunder or Mondrr It four Sigh and drink rmol taut British airtours CwPrfotL time I 4 no uni StZEmELti agency 4576824 Georgetown MMKEriuoi 8770138