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and Fall Wear f / ' i , H i mMsaimasr (Uhlon showings ' , «f the great French bouses are inter- " ^ testing not only for the clothes them- ? .-_4 -^selves, but because of their Influence '>V'*jon autnmn styles, writes a Paris ..jfashion correspondent. In planning > > Is wardrobe for a new season--and one ' "•* begins even In midsummer to think of Dthes for fall--there is always more less uncertainty as to what we y * fsiiall choose. Wo do not want to re- :H>^|produee In oar dress the styles which %"[,*!|were worn early In the summer, so It \']Is very desirable to have a point of , j. ^ <• jdeparture and fresh Ideas to give Im- £ '** jpettis to our plans. !'/ "'i" i Madeleine et Madeleine have made L • *:^an elaborate showing of models covering both advance Ideas for autumn jexport and midsummer Ideas for local •-customers. They now stand almost In the position of dictators, having made isuch a marked success since their Jdebut last August. It was this house jthat sounded the death knell of the ipannler by refusing to give Its sanction to a fashion which had been exploited prior to August, 1910, when fthey had their first opening. They have kept to straight figure lines, with ^a strong note of the Oriental, espe- Ctlllj the Egyptian girdle and bodice •w-y*" f a v , ' " Mmi of Slander Qraoe. The sash is still one of their most prominent features. From the BJgyptlon girdle to the modern sash the Madeleine et Madeleine models pass abruptly with nothing In between to link the two, and yet, after all, they are not so far apart In the final effect. Black taffeta coat with deep point* at the bottom, formed by a eurvtd opening at the back and a diagonal creasing at the front. especially when' the broad ribbon sash la tied at a low waistline, with a perky butterfly or an oblong bow at the left side. Many of the most charming dresses shown in this line have wonderful . sashes developed from metal ribbons or broad 'mofres chiffon weight taffetas. The ribbons are almost as broad as the single width taffetas, and yet so soft that they fall in graceful, slender lines. Even the simplest dress Is given a wonderful amount of style when a big ribbon sash Is properly adjusted. A generous use of white organdie with silk has been, and still Is, a favorite combination with this firm. In the spring they made entire foundation dresses of tucked and plaited white organdie, with overskirts of dark serge. The costume was then completed by a blue serge cape lined with white organdie. Little dresses made entirely of blue j serge or silk had fluffy white organdie frills down the entire length of the front, which lopped after the manner of the coat dress. They have Incorporated the same Idea In a perfectly charming way Into theli midsummer things, featuring extensively Mack taffeta combined with white organdie. For the chateau life, which abounds In France, nothing more appropriate can be imagined than these charming dresses. Model With Two Jackets^ The body of a notable model, which Is cut In chemise style. Is made of white organdie. It begins with tiny pin tucks placed at the depth of a very shallow yoke. These pin tucks continue to below the hip line, where they begin to widen gradually until the last tuck which jusi above the knees is two Inches wide. Below this broad tuck the remainder of the dress Is of black taffeta. There Is a black taffeta ribbon girdle finishing with a big rosette and lots of flying ends of taffeta ribbon. Where the plain organdie yoke and sleeves Join the body of the dress there Is a little line of open work, and on the very short sleeves, which are practically nothing more than shoulder caps, are two dainty frills of real Valenciennes lace. A single upstanding frill of lace surrounds the half low, round neck. The story Is not complete with just this little dress, the adorable part being the fact that It has two jackets, one In pure white organdie and the other in black taffeta. Both Jackets are made in exactly the same style and are trimmed with wide plaiting* of matching materials, the white organdie one with white organdie and the black taffeta one with black taffeta. The jhcket sleeves are very, short, leaving the arms almost bare. The plaited ruche stands up about th« neck and follows the one-side lapped front. Just at the waistline there Is a big rosette of the plaiting with a button center, and at either side are double rows of plaltings, which stand oat over the hips. Can one Imagine anything more chic or cool to wear at a tennis, tea or garden party? If one has occasion far a hasty drive to the station the white organdie Jacket Is Immediately replaced by the one of black taffeta. When milady goes Indoors for music or dancing either Jacket is quickly laid aside and the charming little dress, almost Infantile In Its simplicity, is all that can be desired in an afternoon dancing frock. The dress has been ordered by half a dozen women of high social position, and one can imagine that there will hardly be an Important social event during the summer season in France where this costume will not be seea It Is to be copied In crepe georgette for American women who find It difficult fo preserve the pristine freshnest of organdie when their trunks are packed and unpacked. Ansm PARCEL POST MARKETING MERITS •S "'3 :::V; - f CUTTING DOWN JARBOR THEFTS Vigilance of New York Harbor Uotor Police Makes Stealing Extra Hazardous. Coat With Self-Plaitings 1 ti Ibe taffeta coat trimmed with selfplaltings Is a prominent summer Idea. A great many houses are showing models of this character and among the unusual things offered by Madeleine et Madeleine is a seven-eighths length coat with deep points at the bottom, these points being formed by a curved opening at the back and a diagonal crossing at the front This coat is designed to be worn over any sort of light summer dress. In the collection it Is shown In connection with a yellow chiffon frock handsomely embroidered. It has the simplest lines Imaginable. The Impression of s low waistline is given through the slight draping under the arm. Strong emphasis is being placed on black Chantllly lace dresses. Frocks of black lace are fast taking the place of the colored ones seen earner in the season despite the fact that a black lace dress never tends to make a woman look any younger than she really Is. The vogue for black evening dresses has been augmented by the Parislenne, who has a great liking for such a frock topped by a lacy black hat Black lace dinn« are seen at the smartest evening gatherings. In these the apron and tunic skirts over narrow foundations o1 lace, satin or taffeta are used. The bodices are extremely simple. Long transparent sleeves appear In most ol the lace dinner dresses. These are newer and smarter than the very short sleeves. One of the most charming of these dresses has plaited panel points of. Chantllly lace falling over a slender foundation skirt of black satin and s peasant bodice. • Show Pur and Embroidery. The new fall suits show Jackets In 34 and 30-inch lengths. Many of the suits show lines, while others have a snug bodice with the skirt section slightly gathered. Far trimming and embroidery are much in evidence. The Chemiee Tunic. A chemise tunic of white chiffon Is trimmed at the bottom with white woolen squares set In a circle of Jet beads. Where Fashion Parades A smartly dressed woman wore a navy trlcotlne suit designed on Eton lines. Four streamers less than an inch in width of self material hung from the back of the skirt and extended- about four inches below the A well-gowned woman strolled along the avenue In a frock of black satin with a loose back panel and a draped front The gown was quite long and was unrelieved by white collar or caffs, bat a simple fur neckpiece was used to soften the effect > A yonng miss wore a black shade hat which was apleasant relief from the large drooping shapes wreathed with flowers. It was large, of course, i»nri it drooped because large bunches of 16ose green grass hung down over the brim. A band of red, white and blue flat daisies encircled the crown. Something decidedly new in footwear was seen. A dainty miss dressed brilliant of red stockings and red kid shoes with three straps after the Parii fashion. Although red slippers are being worn In Paris, very few American women have ventured out In them Quantities of feather hats In the brightest shades of red have been seen lately. These feathers of ostrich and hackel prefer small shapes, for the) like to droop down over the eyes. The new shade of the season, thai soft ashy rose shade known as crei ette, was seen in the hats of several smartly dressed women. They wert worn with simple dresses of navj cloth and were very effective. The overall Influence Is being fell In pajamas, if not in the frocks el the season. An interesting model li made of contrasting colors' in a verj decided overall manner. To break the too great severity of the style, a double ribbon girdle Is ahreadeA throng! tu * irtcottnfi trpcfc. wore the most j the co*t The Pareel Poet ie * Awwct Cut Which Producers I Good Advantage, Consumers* The proof of parcel-post marketing Is in the eating. Many thousands of consumers have tried out this method of purchasing farm products for the table and are eating their food with a relish born of good food, flavored with the sauce of economy and service. After all, the final test of this method of direct marketing is the measure of satisfaction secured by buyer and seller. Instances of successful parcel-post sellers, North, South, East and West which have come to the attention of the bureau of markets, United States department of agriculture, prove quite as much as pages of theory and discussion the Immense practical value of this method of buying and selling. While the extent to which the people of this country are marketing produce through the parcel post is not definitely known, there Is every Indication that the volume of business is Increasing steadily. A "Parcel Poster* Preepera. And there is every reason why the parcel-post business should Increase. Men and women are succeeding splendidly In building up businesses with the mall service as their chief aid. Of course, the producer cannot succeed without an accessible market; he must be sure that he has the kind and quality of produce that Is wanted; and he must learn the art of conducting his business, writing his letters, etc., in such a way as to give satisfaction. That Is what a fruit grower In Oregon has done. For three or four years he has specialized In marketing fruits, berries, and vegetables by parcel post to customers In small towns within a radius of 200 miles. His mailing list now includes about 1,000 names, and his sales amount to about $3,000 annually. By supplying products .of extra quality which are carefully crated, packed, and shipped, this man has secured additional business through the recommendations which original patrons have supplied. Many of his customers he has never seen, but they trust him because he guarantees satisfaction. When an occasional shipment proves unsatisfactory It is replaced free of charge and no questions are asked. His business has grown so that recently he has bought fruit from other producers In order to supply his trade. But he has always taken particular care to ship only high quality fruit, so that his high standard will be maintained. He realizes that unless he does this he will soon lose his patrons' confidence and voluntary commendation-- his best business asset. Down in Kentucky Is a farmer whose experience furnishes similar proof of the value of the parcel post In direct marketing. This man sells dressed poultry, eggs, meats and fruits to easterners in Nashville, Tenn. The business was started two years ago by selling to a friend who was so pleased with the results that he told his neighbors of his good fortune. Cheapness Not Essential. Other tilings being equal, purchasers expect to save something over estimated retail prices by dealing direct with the producers. It does not always follow that the prices of parcelpost goods must be below the market, levels. This Kentuckian, for example, has never entered to those desiring low-priced goods. Rather, he has built up his entire business on the basis of high quality. He Is just as particular In selecting customers as some customers are In selecting a producer from whom to obtain farm products. He retains his customers by never breaking his rale, which Is "Sell only the best." Many producers would occasionally be tempted to sell secondgrade produce when the orders exceeded their supply ft first grade produce. This is something which the Kentuckian never does. Instead, he frankly tells his patrons that he is out of the desired supplies and, unless otherwise Instructed, he will fill the order as soon as possible. New Englander 8ells Eggs. Up In a little town in New Hampshire Is a retired business man who has built np a good trade In marketing eggs direct to customers. The business was started because of the unsatisfactory prices at certain city markets. After some unsatisfactory experience in shipping with containers of various kinds, he finally evolved one of his own planning, which Is proving very satisfactory. These are now manufactured for him In large quantities, thus bringing down the cost. Particular care Is taken in packing the eggs and In tying the parcels. As In most cases of successful parcel-post selling, satisfaction is guaranteed. Printed labels are used and special effort is made to answer all letters carefully and promptly. In the last year or so the business during the spring and summer months has amounted to an average of 600 dozen Aeggs per week. These are bat a few hundreds of instances of successful parcel-po*V marketlpg. Specialists in the bureau of markets have compiled valuable ln» formation on this question. Person# desiring literature on this subject should address the United States De» partment of Agriculture, Washington! D. C. BIG CRtlPS MED, IN WESTERN ClUUiDH SCARCITY OF BALING WIRE IS BEING FELT One Faetory Induced to Resume Work to Capacity* 'I Due i opportunity to fully mature but which Shortage of Tie Material Is Mostly to 8trfkes and Transportation Difficulties--Less te ,s Kay Crop Is Small. * •• Something new in the way of "shortages" has developed. This time it is a shortage of baling wire for this season's hay crop. If the horses go unfed, it will not be because of lack of hay, bat because of the lack of bale ties to bind • the hay for shipment Active steps taken by the bureau of markets, United States department of agriculture, to aid in overcoming this shortage of bale ties have resulted tn one factory, with an output of 800 bundles a day, resuming work to capacity, and several other large manufacturers stating their willingness to do everything possible to meet the demand. The bureau of markets has com-, munlcated with the principal manufacturers of wire and the leading baletie factories, urging them to Increase their production. A survey of the entire situation disclosed that the general scarcity is due mostly to strikes, transportation difficulties and shortage of wire. As distribution Is one of the main reasons for the present shortage, the department of agriculture has suggested plans to manufacturers by which it is hoped to supply those sections of the country first where the need is most pressing. It Is believed that If the manufacturers proceed along the lines suggested, sufficient bale ties will be manufactured and shipped to dealers to supply the demand with little loss to the hay crop. . . jt V _ Making a Sssdbsfl. j It often takes considerable work' to make a seedbed where land has been neglected for any reason. But it generally pays to prepare the land In the best manner possible at the risk of U* season. , r iWu SILAGE FROM MATURED CORK Feeding Value Not Decreased Where Bare Have Not Fully Developed Wheii Preeerved. Wage made from corn that has an has been planted in such a way that the ears have not fully developed, has practically the same composition and the same feeding value as silnge made from corn equally well matured but which will yield a fair crop of ear corn to the acre. This Is supposed to be due to the fact that in tbe production of th& ears there is merely a transfer of the nutrients from the stalk and leaves to the ear. There Is a slight decrease in the feeding value of corn when placed In a silo, but this should not exceed 10%, and the loss is less from this method of preserving than In any other. DESTROY HOMES OF INSECTS Stalks of Cabbage, Cauliflower Other Vegetablee Should Not G Left in Garden., and tlpsn op the cabbage patch! Doift raise a crop of Insect pests on the stalks. That Is what Is likely to happen If stalks of cabbage or of cauliflower, eollards, brussels sprouts, and such vegetablee are left In the garden after they have .fulfilled their food mission. Entomologists of the United States department of agriculture advise that where such remnants of the garden can be promptly fed to hogs or cattle a double purpose will be served--Insect pests will be kept down and a food provided for meat-making animals. i , , - 9 ! . - w ^ . \"44, ALFALFA AND SWEET CLOVER Two Crops Are First Cousins But D» eldedly Different in Making Their Growths. Cot 'alfalfa when the bnds of the second growth begin to show at the crowns of the plants. Cut sweet clover when the blossoms are about half out and raise "the sickle bar at least four Inches. These two crops are first cousins but they are decidedly different in this respect: Alfalfa shoots from a crown; sweet clover shoots from bada on the main stem. i. -JLL 'i HEAVY TOLL TAKEN Metorbeat Crooks Work Hand In Hand With Barge Captains--Harbor Police Pursue Pirates With Speedy Launches. few York.--Thousands of dollars worth of loot which used to be almost the nightly toll of New York city harbor motor thieves have now dwindled to a minimum of losses, due to the efficiency of the New York harbor police. The police have Jurisdiction over the navigable waters of New York city and their aquatic beat measured In shore lines, covers a distance of 445 miles. Speedy motorboata, equipped with automatic rapid fire guns, grappling Irons and searchlights, patrol every Inch of the distance, day and night Each member of the sailor police must be able to swim, and swim well. Many of them are former sailors with a technical knowledge q£ nautical matters which helps them In their present work. Work During Relieving Hour. Police and launches work In eighthour shifts. Immediately following roll call, the launches start off for their post, nearly always close to the pierhead line, and always there at nighttime. The police launches steal along at night without sidelights and now and then flash an inquiring searchlight Into the darkest depths of some deserted pier. For this Is the time and place when the motorboat pirate plies his art He knows tbe relieving hour, too, and does business very fast during the SO mlnutee it takes to change reliefs. In fact, so cognizant Is he of the very time and place, that both are changed every fortnight to keep him guessing. "Bleeding the Cargo." ••Bleeding the cargo," they call It-- the favorite form of river robbery. Defined, the phrase means stealing a little here and there, the total making a snug haul. The game is more safe If the barge captain stands ^n with the pirates, as he often does. He receives cash for the privilege of letting the pirates make away with a certain portion of his cargo, a small supply of Jtollee Chaee Pirates. sugar, a few bags of coffee or a few yards of rope. Combined, it makes a launch cargo worth considerable money. If It Is coffee the thieves are after (already weighed and passed on to the rightful owners) the captain looks the other way while the pirates pilfer a few 100-pound sacks. In 15 minutes it's in the motorboat and off to some "fence" ashore. The river pirate's vocation Is the safest one In the underworld. Nearly all the men have been sailors themselves. They operate under cover of darkness, in speedy motorboata built especially for the work. CASE TOO MUCH FOR SOLOMON Efforts to Follow the Example of Solo- I*e« la Judlolal Decisions Sametimee Go Wrong. Charleston, W. Va.--Efforts to fol low the example -of Solomon tin judicial decisions sometimes go wrong. Five witnesses testified that a hen and her brood belonged to Mrs. John Frazier, who had been arrested on a charge of steeling them. Mm E. S. Cookham said the hen belonged to her, and six witnesses backed up her claims. Judge Henry Werti decided to turn the chickens loose at a point half way between the two homes and see if they wouldn't go home to roost They west to Mrs. Frazier's home. Now Mrs. Cookham's witnesses say chickens recognize as home the last place In which they were fed, and that of course, they would go to Mrs. Frailer, who was charged with harboring them. "If s a case which even Solomon codldn't handle," says the judge. Expleelon Killed Miners In Hungary^ Lulna, Hungary.--Caught while leaving a shaft 193 miners were killed by the explosion of a dynamite depot at Lulna, the Hungarian coal-mlnlng center. Thlrty-slx others were seriously wounded. . Four Killed in Bearding Houas Crash. Buffalo, N. Y.--Four persons were killed and many Injured when the Sutherland hotel collapsed. The foui floors and walls of the brick structnrt crashed in. carrying more than SI nen lodgers Into the cellar. Need of Farm Labor Urgently Required for Harvest. Sains of the past week which nuta been general throughout all portions of Western Canada, covering MANITOBA, SASKATCHEWAN, and ALBERTA, have placed beyond all manner of doubt the certainty of vast grain crops throughout the entire district Reports from all points Indicate marvelous and rapid growth. The conditions of a week or so back, which were decidedly less promising and led many to think that there might be a partial failure, have disappeared altogether and new there Is a wave of optimism circulating throughout the entire country. In 1915 there were enormous yields reported from all parts, tad It would ippear now as If In many places the fields of 1915 would be equaled if lot beaten. What might appear to be a draw- >ack, is the apparent shortage of farm help. The Province of Manitoba through Its Employment Bnreau in Wipnlpeg, is asking for 10,000 harvest lands and over, offering from $5 to t6 per day. The Province of Sascatchewan is asking for 15,000 extra lands to take care of the Immense larvest that is certirln to be reaped n that Province. In Alberta the crop irea Is somewhat less, the labor conlitlons somewhat better, and is maknfe a request for 5,000 extra farm lands. Interviewing the officials of the different Governments, they are Inclined » the opinion tjiat as the crops In Kansts, Nebraska, South Dakota, nillols and other Central States are harrested there will be a movement northward that will materially help to take Mre of the labor situation. With the ow railroad rates that may be secured >n application to the Employment Offices i-t Winnipeg and at boundary >oints, or which may be secured through the Canadian Government Of- Sces at Chicago, III.; Detroit Mich.; Illlwaukee, Wis.; Kansas City, Mo.; Dmaha, Neb.; Dee Moines, la.; Watertown, S. D.; St Paul, Minn., and 3rand Forks, N. D„ will give to thoss weklng employment the opportunity » reach the harvest fields at ft low seat--Advertisement Hot wafer Sute BBLL' •VFOR INDI The Good Samaritan, It isnt even safe to trust even to a food Samaritan any more. The Tarkto Avalanche reports the case of jne who turned out to be a thief. He Uscovered Dr. William Cunningham, a local physician, having trouble with his touring car. and promptly offered to help him. After the doctor had gratefully accepted the man got In and tinkered the car a bit and then started off to ride up and down the street a time or two to see how It worked. To date he Is still seeing.--v""<m Qty Times. Shave With Cuticura Soap And double your razor elTciency as well as promote skin purity, skin comfort and skin health. No mug, no slimy soap, no germs, no waste, no Irritation even when shavel twice dally; One soap for all uses--shaving, bathing and shampooing.--Adv. REAL REASON FOR HIS TEARS Teacher Flattered Hereelf That Yo^ngatar Was Crying Beeeuse She Was Leaving Them. The graduating class of a l^rre Haute school gave the teacher a parting gift During the speech she made acknowledging the gift she noticed that one boy was weeping. Then she told how touched she was by the emotion displayed by this boy. "What greater tribute could a teacher have than to have a child cry because he was leaving her?" she later asked tbe class. One of the other boys remained after the others had left. "Miss N-- he confided, "you thought Jim was crying because he was going to leave you. but he wasn't It was because that was going to be the last time he would see that present I had the hardest time to get hlB 60 cents toward It out of him I ever had getting anything. And when you took that package he was Just bidding that 50 certs a tearful farewelL t Hie Contribution. He was an old man, just about reedy to "cash In his checks." He had more money than he knew what to do with, but lived as miserly and niggardly as he possibly could. The church In the community was raising money to pay for a furnace. The solicitor went to this man and asked him to help. "Well," he said. "One of your church members has owed me $2 for aver 20 years. If you'll collect that |2, ri! give you one of them." Naturally. "Hoar wss the actor who took the part of the fop in the play1|* "Oh, he was a dandy/* f ^ First in America TRINERaS American Qiiir Bitter Wine Brought to tbe market 30 fears ago ss die first Bitter Wine, b is still first and second to none. Unsurpassed for poor appetite, headaches, constipation, flatulence and other stomach troubles. At sfl drag tons sad dealers in medicines. JOSEPH TRINER COMPANY 13S3-4S S. AIMm* CWM#* •. OoVdMMal flMtPdi "Si HAD LOFTY IDEA OF DUTY 1 Janitor's Sense of ReepeneiMHtx Soipewhat Embarrassing la Thla Particular Tfce principal of a dty school haHfr ing is still young and has a very at* tentlve admirer. Occasionally * ha comes to the school building after her and takes her home In his roadster. The other afternoon she waa finishing repoc$B and die young maa came Into her room until she was ready to go. Tbe janitor finished his work and she told him he coald leave whenever he wished to do so, and they woul£ close the building. But still he lingered' until they left The next morning he explained his stay by remarking that he was late getting home the evening beforr "But you could have gone home," reminded tha prlnclpaL 1 told yon we would cloaa up." "Yes, I know," he returned, "but you see. Miss T--, It's this way. The board holds me responsible for this bugdftv and Tm net willing to leave It ti charge of a perfectly strange ma*." Still Thrifty. He was so miserly that tbe gliTa family twitted her much about It la desperation one night she decidid to give him a very strong hint tM(| aha would like to have blm occasionally buy her a box of candy. They-were standing In front of a drug store window. which was filled with boxes of candy. The girl looked at them a minute and said archly, "Do you know that there Is a kiss at the bottom of every one of those boxes?" The thrifty young man looked at them. "Well, some day when I have plenty of time," be said. Til go la and look under one to see If I can find any." i Fortunate BrMfe After a fashionable wedding hi Philadelphia two girls were heard dMK cussing the features of the event Said one: w ^ f "How did yw think tfce lookedr I The other girl smiled and *k)h, remarkably well-groomed." Cut Down the Sugar £^i by eating a cereal that contains its own sugar self-developed from grain in making-- As a breakfast or luncheon cereal with cream qr milk; or sprinkled over fresh fruit or berries, Grape-Nuts adds to the meal's pleasure--axil j| fflQDnmirsl, •