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McHENRY* PLAINDEALEB, McHENRY, the FaU fKy'i-r'k; *1r ^x.'0jtnm &?"• inQ ;f: iPMlMcy to Depart Prom Fashion Exccpt In Hiah-Ptlcsd Outfits-- ^ -V Are Mora Import* :• t\*1 "It Is easy to bring oat a new silvfcouette," said one of oar greatest "'American designers, "but to launch tone which really is wearable and that Women will accept Is a problem offering many difficulties." The silhouette which a prominent American jinn, noted for Its beautiful suits, Is ^advocating this season, and which appears in all of their smartest creations, fullness at the back, the figure aining very slender and flat In the If rent and at the sides. A suit of black velours displayed revealed this silhouette. The upper Jsho* ffems -H ~V Section of the coat Is cut to a point f"Sf v>/ln tb« back, very much like an old- , ,jfashloned basque. The lower or skirt jv* ^"portion is attached to this with a rlpi> ll&g fullness which swings toward back. The long <*oat, yery close Three-pleoe suit of taupe velvet. The ooat is elaborately embroidered In dull red. The collar, wide band at t)M bottom of the coat and cuffs are of brown chiffon banded with moleskin. .fitting except for the rippling section at the back, to cut away sharply In the front so that from the waistline it merely covers the hips, revealing the entire front of the skirt, which Is slender and straight, being little more than a length of the cloth wrapped about the figure and closing at the *back with one side lapping over the 'other. The lapping portion hangs loose and is faced with white broadcloth to match the facing on the high collar and the piping on the sleeves. There are small turned-back cuffs, •inr> faced with white broadcloth. Black and White Patterns. A great deal of attention is paid to every detail In suits, and this model Is no exception. Buttous and linings are selected with the greatest of care. The black and white effect Is carried out in buttons, which are black, wtfb Inset disks of white and of an unusual oblong shape. The lining of the coal is black satin, with Jnsets of white satin In the form of triangles, giving the effect of a bold patterned blaek and white silk. Several of the exclusive dressmaking establishments are making blouses of fine white linen, batiste or organdie, to accompany their tailored suits. These tuck in at the waistline and close in the front after the manner of a sport shirt or a plain shirtwaist. The chief interest in these blouses lies in their collars, which are of the plaited ruff variety, reminiscent of the days of Queen Elizabeth. Some take the form of wide fluted frills falling from the top of a straight tight-fitting collar that buttons tightly about the neck. These ruffs, as well as Jabot frills down the front, are usually bound with black, although occasionally a bright color such as pink or cherry red is used. Blouses with ruffs are included in the costume because of the unusual neck finish, which adds considerable distinction to the tailored suit. The black suit described has a white organdie waist with a plaited ruff bound with black silk. A narrow black ribbon cravat fastens the collar. Waistcoats of heavy silks or linens, with sleeves and backs of a thin material, are part of some new three-piece suits. The vest is long, falling several Inches below the waistline, and has smart patch pocket*. The back portion finishes with a band at the waistline. A suit of black and white striped worsted has such a waistcoat of white silk with the back portion and sleeves of white chiffon plalded with black stitching. Points of Interest in suits other than the silhouette are the materials, the colors and the trimmings. There is a revival of old-fashioned smooth-finished cloths such as broadcloth. Velours and duvetyns are Important Black, browns and grays are the leading colors, with, of course, navy blue, which is always popular with American women, regardless of what other colors may be advocated by those who make fashions. Drop Pur for Trimmings. There is a tendency to depart from fur as a trimming, except in very highpriced milts. The cost of tailoring and materials is so great at the present time that a ftfr-trlmmed suit is almost prohibitive and may be classed among the luxuries. Braids, wool stitching and patent leather bands are used in lieu of fur. Bands of plaited or fluted cloth are used profusely. These are sometimes lined with a contrasting color in the form of piping to produce a very pretty color effect These strips of fluted cloth give almost the appearance of bugles. That the minds of dressmakers and milliners are working along the same lines is evinced by the hat worn with this suit which, although not made especially for It carries out the same idea. The crown and upper brim are of blue velvet while the facing is yellow silk. The brim is encircled by yellow bugles that give the same effect as the plaited sections of cloth on the suit Braid is used In such quantities that the designer's Ingenuity has been taxed to the utmost in working out new ways of applying it. An original method of using braid is seen In another suit Wide, flat silk braid of a very dark blue, to match the velours from which the sqit is fashioned, is run through slits 'cut In the cloth. It Is not stitched to the material, but harigs loose. At the end of each strand is a puffy ornament formed of the braid. Feathers Are Most Important Great Interest Is manifested In black and white, both In Paris and in America. The Frencii woman affects black and white in her Jiats as well as in her suits and dresses. One of our own milliners, who recently returned from Paris, said, apropos of this craze for black and white: "I expect to copy many of my French models in colors for the women of this country, because the American woman wears colors better than the Parislenne. The former likes to accentuate the color of her eyes, hair and complexion through her hats, and there is no country In the world where the women are more artistic In the use of color In their clothes than right here in America. The American women have more color than the French, consequently they seldom take to the all black or black and white hat with any degree of enthusiasm. There Is a vogue for these from time to time, bat it is usually superseded by hats that show some color." Feathers are more Important In the Cashless of the hour than they ever have been. This means that they take a very prominent place, for daring the past two years quantities of feathers have adorned clothes, but the seemingly extravagant use of plumage last year appears meager in comparison with the autumn clothes of 1920, some of which are not only covered but loaded with feathers. There are hats with so many feathers on them that the shapes are scarcely discernible. Indian coqae completely covers a small turban and falls like a fringe over the wearer's forehead, so that her eyes peep out from beneath a curtain of plumage. There are feather muffs, feather fana and feather handbags. Evening capes are encircled with dozens of rows of brightly dyed ostrich. Among the most noteworthy of such capes is one of red silk, from the entire surface of which floats red ostrich fringe. The cape is lined with gold tissue. Novelties of Braided Tunics. All-over braided tunics strewn with heads are nmrtng the, new novelties. Japanese Sandals of Silk Hand-Embroidered Foot Covering Lends Bright Touch When Worn ,:j.$ With Negligees. • Htofed-embroldered Japanese » sandals made of silk lend a bright touch when worn with either the challis or pongee negligees, and they may be had In all matching colors. Then there are garters made of ribbons in startling color combinations, such as rose combined with black, yellow with white and pink with black, to complete the negligee costume. Crepe meteor breakfast coats are Be*, We have had breakfast fiats in taffetas and crepe de chines but not in meteor. This silk is made in sll the beautiful pastel shades as well ;as the darker ones. One model, in pink, has on its only trimming shirred ruffles of self material. These are placed about the neck, continuing all the way down the front of the negligee sni* around the bottom as well as the three-quartaf length sleeves. Two miles placed about the skirti at even Intervals anfl one around the puffy patch pockets add to its attractiveness. The pockets have further ornamentation in the form of fralt saade of several shades of meteor. Ross Ornament for Turbans. • snag little turban developed In shallow folds, of velours delaln, has s big red rose attached to the left side The stem with three glistening leaves, clings to the shallow poof encircling the head, and the rose droops cleai and cuddles in the tresses near the ear of the girl who wears this piece of headgear. Hair Ornaments Fashionable. Hair ornaments are decidedly In the foreground as fashions and the Spanish comb continues to be used. Large-sized combs, as well as th« smaller combs and hairpins win b« #ii fii 11 ,~ASPTRIN Name "Bayer" 011 Genuine . *®ayer Tablets of Aspirin" Is gen* fne Aspirin proved safe by millions and prescribed by physicians for over twenty years. Accept only an unbroken "Bayer package" which contains proper directions to relieve Headache, Toothache, Earache, Neuralgia, Rheumatism,' Colds- and Pain. Handy tin boxes of 12 tablets cost few cents. Druggists also Sell larger -Bayer packages." Aspirin Is trade mark Bayer Manufacture Mon- Dacetlcacldester of Salicyllcacld.--Adv. The One Retort. "They have no use for children." * "Hum, too bad their parents didn't feel the same way about it." . -"DANDERINE" Girls! Save Your Hair! r . Make It Abundant 1 That lecUd, for it .Mil? "taZlTJ anvel, dropsy or fatal Blight's AHMM. II von are raSsrinf with k baAAMfc, look tor other proof of kw* ^--*•'* If there are dizzy tpeRi tired feeling and disordered kiASBf action, get after the caaat. Dse Domft Kidney Pills, the remedy that helped thousand*. Satisfied usera onunend Boon's. Ask pour neighbort An Iowt Case John Newt o«w| farmer. Annmiwa. Iowa, say a: "I bad .an attack of ltun- Fbago. A cold settled in my kidney* and b a c h a l t c a u s e d s e v e r e pains in my and t^ck. ly baejk [ coald arena*. Filling a Meaeure of Wheat Preparatory to Weighing H and Determining Grade of the Wheat. Of prime importance to the wheatgrowing fanner is an understanding of dockage as the term is used in federal wheat grades, and how dockage in wheat is determined, since in grading wheat under federal standards one of the fundamental principles Is to determine the numerical grade on a dockage- free basis. With a few exceptions the dockage is first removed from the samples and the grade determined with the clean or dockage-free, wheat. Dockage la the foreign material screened from a sample of wheat to be graded, by the use of appropriate hand sieves or other cleaning devices, and consists of sand, dirt, weed seeds, weed stems, chaff, straw, grain other than wheat, and any other foreign material. It also may contain finely broken or small, shriveled grains of wheat, in cases where such material cannot be separated from dirt and other foreign material by the use of appropriate sieves. Foreign Material Determined. The purpose of the dockage provision In the federal wheat standards Is to enable the person grading the sample to determine the approximate amount of easily separated foreign material that is in the lot of wheat. Therefore, dockage Is approximately the percentage of foreign material which can be easily removed from the lot of wheat by the commercial types of cleaning machinery commonly foand In grain elevators and mills. The dockage test is described in Farmers' Bulletin 1118 entitled "Dockage Under Federal Wheat Grades," which has recently been issued by the United States department of agriculture to aid wheat growers and others in" understanding this Important feature of wheat grading as provided in the revised federal grain standards for wheat, which because effective July 15, 1918. 4 Dockage Test Described. The dockage test is made ordinarily by weighing 1,000 grams of wheat (about 2*4 pounds), which constitutes a representative sample. Grams are used Instead of other units for ease In determining percentages. The dockage is separated from this 1.000-gram sample by screening with pan sieves of specified types or by using a cleaning device which has been officially approved. The dockage so separated is weighed and the percentage is found, based on the total weight of the sample including the dockage. If the amount of dockage is below 1 per cent it Is disregarded. For example, if only one-half of 1 per cent of foreign material Is separated by the means described above, no dockage is assessed. This one-hnlf of 1 per cent, however, should not be returned to the sample used In determining the grade. If 1% per cent of dockage is separated, 1 per cent of dockage would be indicated in assigning the grade. Thus It will be seen that any fraction of a per cent of dockage Is considered as a "tolerance" In the standards. Indicated in Certificate. After the dockage is removed the clean sample is used in determining the grade, save in a few exceptions. Dockage does not affect the grade assigned to the wheat. If 1 per cent or more of separable forelgd material is found, dockage Is assessed. In the Inspection certificate the amount is indicated immediately after the grade designation, as, for example. No. 1/ northern spring, dockage 1 per cent: If the wheat seed used Is carefully selected, cleaned, tested and treated before planting, if care is exercised in cultivation and crop rotation, and If the wheat is carefully threshed and cleaned, there should be, ordinarily, •try little foreign material present when the crop is marketed. Apply to Foreign Material. Two terms In the federal wheat standard apply to foreign material-- "dockage" and "foreign material other than dockage." The former is foreign material that Is separated from the sample of wheat by the proper use of appropriate hand sieves. "Foreign material other than dockage" is the foreign material not separated in the screening, and remains in the dockagefree sample. "Foreign material other than dockage," on the other hand, is a factor in the grade and definite percentages are permitted In each numerical grade. Dockage Easily Removed. Ordinary dockage can be removed from quantities of wheat with comparatively simple cleaning machinery, such as is Installed in many grain elevators and mills, or it can be removed on the farm with an ordinary portable fanning mill equipped with a screen having perforations like those specified for the dockage sieves. Dockage found in wheat In many Is Of valu* to cases It not only may have no value, but may contain ingredients positively harmful if ground with the wheat. Dockage frequently contains quantities of other grains and weed seeds, such as mustard, flaxseed, oats or other cereal grain. Much of this can be used to good advantage as poultry or stock feed. Importance of Dockage System. It should be understood that It Is optional with a farmer whether he remove dockage or not. The point which United States department of agriculture officials emphasize is that it Is to his advantage to understand dockage and, in many cases, to remove it himself. If the dockage system is not employed, the foreign material in the wheat may cause a lowering of the grade. If no grading system is employed (grading usually is not compulsory for the farmer in selling wheat at country points, though all shipments to terminal markets are graded), and the country miller or grain dealer buys wheat as delivered at a flat rate, or on the basis of the average quality delivered, the price paid usually is sufficiently low to protect the buyer against loss caused by objectionable foreign material delivered with the general run of the grain. Under the dockage system of the federal standards, however, the amount of such foreign material separated and considered as dockage is deducted from the weight of the wheat purchased an^t in any event, does not affect the grade of the wheat after it has been cleaned. This results In a higher grade, and the price paid Is on the basis of this grade. After the dockage is removed from the original sample and the test weight per bushel has been determined, the sample is then examined to ascertain whether an analysis Is to be made for any other factors which determine the grade. Methods of Handling Dockage. Various satisfactory methods of handling dockage may be employed la normal times. Where wheat Is cleaned on the farm or at the country elevator and only the screened wheat Is dellv» ered to the local buyer, there Is less possibility of difference of opinion re» gardlng the grade of wheat delivered^ Such an arrangement tends to establish greater confidence in the grades given by the local buyer. When nox^ lous weed seeds are present it is advisable to have the removed dockage ground before feeding to prevent the further spread of these weeds on the farm. In many cases such material has a relatively high feed value and often farmers will find it to their ad> vantage to remove the dockage themselves or have their local buyers do it for them. The bulletin describes other methods of handling dockage and making allowance therefor. Further information as to the cor* rect method of determining dockage In wheat may be obtained by writing the United States department of agricui* ture, Washington, or by writing to ot visiting the nearest office of federal grain supervision. Such offices are Iterated in the large grain markets. farmer or country grain dealer may also mall a sample to the nearest grain Inspector and receive for a small fee an official certificate showing the grade and dockage on that particular sample. This sample should be two quarts in size, of which at least 1% pints is inclosed in a clean, airtight container. The remainder, if any, with the container, should be placed In a clean cloth sack. The address of the nearest licensed grain Inspector can be secured by writing the department or any supervision office. MARKET ASSOCIATIONS HELP USE "DIAMOND DYES" Dye right! Don't risk your material In a poor dye. Each package of "Diamond Dyes" contains directions so simple that any woman can diamond-dye a new, rich, fadeless color Into old garments, draperies, coverings, everything, whether wool, silk, linen, cotton or mixed goods. Buy "Diamond Dyes" -- no other kind--then perfect results are guaranteed. Druggist has, "Diamond Dyes Color Card"--10 rich coloc* Adv Modern. "Building » modern ^dfcseT* , "Yes, got the cellar fixed op like a grill room.". ^ Stop tk« Paia. _ f stops when Cole's ia applied. It bssla The hurt of a burn or a cut Ola's Csrbollaalve la applli quickly without scars. 25c and 80e by aU drugffiats. For free sample writs The J. W. Cole Co.. Rockford, 111.--Adv. Sarcasm. "I have a sore hip." "The one you carry the suppose." on, I Catarrh Can Be Gsrcd Catarrh la a local disease greatly influenced by constitutional conditions. It therefore requires constitutional treatment. HALL'S CATARRH MEDICINE la taken Internally and acts through the Blood on the Mucous Surfaoes of t h e S y s t e m . HALL'S CATARRH MEDICINE destroys the foundation of the disease, gives the patient strength by Improving the general health and nature In doing Its work. All Druggists. Circulars ... F. 3. Cheney A Co., Toledo, When it comes to getting money the lawyer takes fewer chances than the burglar. Immediately after a "Danderine" mhssage, your hair takes on new life, lustre and wondrous beauty, appearing twice as heavy and plentiful because each hair seems to fluff and thicken. Don't let your hair stay lifeless, colorless, plain or scraggly. You, too, want lots of long, strong, beautiful hair. A 3f*eent bottle delightful "Danderine" freshens .your scalp, checks dandruff and falling hair. This stimulating "beauty-tonic" gives to thin, dull, fading hair that youthful brightness and abundant fhirknninn All druggists!--Adv. Financially 8peaking. "Honest, old man, you appear to be growing shorter." "No wonder. Three times I've been let in on the ground floor of oil propositions, with the usual results." ach e<r so I hardly get I read In the psnsr about Doan's iudney Pills and took them. Tbey me entirely of the attack." Gat Don't at Any hm, 90c a Be* DOAN'S V5V FOSTER.MILBURN CO., BUFFALO. K Y. GREEN'S AUGUST FLOWER lo'ohh. M#ny Different Ways in Which Organizations Can Assist in Selling Various Crops. Co-operative marketing organizations can assist in standardisation; in, improving grading and packing; in obtaining and using market information; in developing old markets; In findings new markets; In Improving service; in advertising and In baying needed supplies. FEEDING MILK TO CHICKENS 8urplus Supply, Either Whole or Skimmed, Should Be Given to Fowls, Sweet or Sour. If you have surplus milk, whole or skimmed, feed it to the chickens. If you can be sure that it is always sweet, feed it that way, but if there is any probability that you will have sour milk to feed, you had better soar •ii miiif frrriinr " ~ |TTf 7 The uncommonly smart boy Is lucky to have common sense In after years. A Marvelous Remedy for Indigestion. Those who suffer from nervous dyspepsia, constipation, indigestion, torpid liver, dizziness, headaches, coming up of food", wind on stomach, palpitation and other indications of disorder In the digestive tract will find Green's August Flower a most effective and efficient assistant In the restoration of nature's functions and a return to health and happiness. There could be no better testimony of the value of this remedy for these troubles than the fact that Its use for the last llfty-four years has extended Into many thousands of households all over the civilized world and no Indication of any failure has been obtained In all that time.. Very desirable as a gentle laxative. Sold everywhere.--Adv. Looked for a Change. She--I told you yesterday that I would not marry you. He--I know. That's why I ask you again today. You would not be so lacking In originality, I hope, as te repeat today what you said yesterday? A man feels like kicking himself when a homely woman attempts to flirt with him. First in America TRINER'S America* Elixir % fitter Wine Brought to tie American market 30 years ago as die first Bitter Wine, h b still first and second to none. Unsurpassed for poor appetite, headaches, constipation, flatulence and other stomach troubles. At all drug stores and dealers in medicines. JOSEPH TRINER COMPANY 1SSS-W S. AsMwd Am. CM«WK a. lutaaelMoai AGKNTS--Dry Dip, greatest winter Send SI for trial order and aamplea. era' Friend Company. Manchester, X FRECKLES V %1 The Housewife? Burden When a woman is almost distracted from overwork, her horn* is in disorder, crying children, and on top of all is suffering- front { backache, bearing down pains, or some other form of feminine iU^ >* then she should remember that hundreds of women in just her con* dition have been restored to health and regained their youthful taking Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound an<| not rest until she has given it a fair trial ' a*; strength by Proof that it Restored the Health of TheMfTwo Womea Cairo. I1L--^ Some time ago I got so bad with female trouble that I thought I would have to be operated on. I had a bad displacement. My right side would pain me and I was so nervous I could not hold a glass of water. Many times I would hare to stop my work and sit down or I would nil on the floor in a faint I consulted several doctors and every one told me the same but I kept fighting to keep from having the operation. I had read so many times of Lydia E. Pinkham's Yep table Compound and it helped my sister so I began taking it I have never felt better than I have since then and I keep house and am able to do all my work. The Vegetable Compound is certainly one grand medicine. --Mrs. J. R MATTHSWA 8311 Sycamore Street, Cfctro, HL , Chattanooga, Tenn.--u I used Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound Iwfore my baby came when I could no longer keep up. It strengthened nir back and relieved me of the ill efteiw which so often develops at such tinier That was my first experience with th#v Vegetable Compound. Tears afteiv wards I took it daring the Change of life and got along so well I scarcely ever had to lie down during the day and seldom had dizzy, fainting spelli I am now well and strong, can do aft my housework with perfect ease and ifc is a comfort to me to be able to say t# other suffering women 4 take lydia IL Pinkham's medicine and be strong/ I will be glad to have you use my name if it ^rill be the means of helping on*? -- Mrs. R A. FAXRSURW, Orchard Knob Ave., Chattanooga, v! - Sfe'cl Ailing, Overworked Housewives Should Rely Upon Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound I&' K.PIMKHAM MEDICINE r ;. rv:\. ja-,.:?- r t-3l