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*. t\ v<* "•r4^ ^DEALER, MCHEKRT, 7.&P if": /ft. ?' ;4 Large numbers of Imported'gowns have recently been exhibited in the studios' of New York merchants, and, from all reports, writes a New York fashion correspondent, American woman are snapping at the French things with in eagerness that Indicates they care for the Parisian touch when they can afford It. A strong Spanish influence is felt among the gowns created by the French designers. Martial et Armand show a gown called "Consuela" which Is distinctly Spanish in character, evidenced particularly by the festoons of black lace which bang from the skirt Another gown at this house has a corsage made of an extremely wide ribbon draped and fastened at one side in a large chou. And st'll another of the evening gowns made by these designers has an underskirt of gray silk lace covered with a shorter skirt and topped by a corsage of rote taffeta. There is a sort of guimpe of the gray lace that can be worn under the corsage of taffeta and by this means a dinner gown is transformed into obe that can be worn for formal afternoon occasions. The 8panlslt Style. Callot, that artist among artists, 18 standing for the Spanish style - in afternoon and evening dresses. Taf- Elevation of theNew American Cardinal t «'*• fr.iF IP B«*id Trimming of Tiny Black Clr« Motifs on BIim 801-90 Suit feta and laces are mostly used for these gowns cf formal expression, and aa most of them bulge out over the ,hlps there Is necessarily a repeated me of crinoline whereby the effect Is gained. Cherult clings to the line for which she was famous last season--tfeat long, straight, thin affair of soft and clinging material which scorns the use of trimming and depends only upon Its own contour to make it notable. Her evening gowns are made of laces and chiffons often in two or three colortngs fcones, each one blending Into the other. There are several black and white gownp here made of chiffon and lace, with a touch of distinctly bright color added in some way. Jenny has surprised every one by1 insisting upon keeping her skirts-- even the skirts of the evening gowns, which are ever the first to fall--as short as they were last season. Many people look to this designer to more or less establish a style for the coming season, and there is, in consequence, much talk concerning the" shortness of the skirts. White and combinations of black and white are considerably in the lead among the evening gowns shown by Jenny. And the white ones are perhaps the most notable among them. They are made of chiffon, of crepe do chine and of moire, their trimmings, when they are trimmed at all, being also of white and very inconspicuously handled. Both the white and the black and White costumes furnish an excellent medium for the use of soft draplngs of lace, which. It would seem from general appearances, is being used quite as freely as ever it bus' been for the past season or two. Coat Dresses. At the shop of Jean Patou, green is the color that is chosen to be used In combination with blue serge. Here they are in the habit, this season, of lightening the blue serge frock with some lingerie sort of trimming or or-, gandie pipings managed in a number of original and new ways. Many of the skirts for day dresses in Paris are In some way spread out to give a look of extra fullness, and this little trick is often accomplished by means of a gore set in at the hips. There are many adaptations of the idea, but In some form or another ohe is quite likely to meet qp with it tn the showing of spring costumes. Doucet is displaying numerous dresses that are made for street wear and which are sometimes called "coat dresses." The most successful ones are of black satin, sometimes trimmed with lace. The very large sleeves carrv with them that Roumanian flavor which has lately been so popular, and these, it is true, are found in most of the spring collections. There is a new fashion for handling chiffon that Is employed extensively by Madeleine ot Madeleine, Patou and Poiret In some way the fabric is used in a double thickness and is cot so that the hem is distinctly uneven. There is tn these skirts a great deal of fullness, so that when one walks about there appears a waving undulation about the feet. It is an extremely graceful style, and one that Is bound to be popular. They are doing It, too, with satins and with crepes. The dressy dress in two colors is another of the things among the new showings that achieved instant success. At many of the French houses th«y are displaying gowns that have the skirts made of one shade and the bodices made of quite another tone. Patou, an enthusiastic sponsor of the idea, prefers the combination of beige and blue for this sort of frock. Docuillet shows many of this type of two-toned frocks which are accompanied by capes--short capes--having ohe side made of one of the tones used for the dress and the other side made of the other tone. That is, they are made of serge and lined with silk of another shade, or they are made of one color of crepe de chine and lined with another color, or they are made of satin and lined with another color of chiffon, and so on through many combinations. Then, whatever the combination in the cape may be, that combination is faithfully repeated In the frock, though never twice in the same manner. This fal the first photograph to arrive in this; country « bowing the public consistory "a the Vatican in Rome when Archbishop Dennis J. Dougherty of Philadelphia was elevated to the cardlnalate. • - Poor of . Is Problem Efforts Are to Be Made to Correct Low Physical Standards Revealed by War. EXPERTS CONSIDER QUESTION Work of Draft Boards Showed That Nation of 100,000,000 People Could Put Forward 5,000,000 Man Fit to Carry a QUA. Washington.--An annual swwjr of the young men of the nation to determine their physical condition and what can be done to improve It was suggested the other day by General' Pershing in an address to high school cadets here. General Pershing was thinking of his experience in the war. He reminded his hearers that 00 per cent of the men called for service were physically unfit and he pointed out the pressing need for something to remedy this situation. The state of the national health, as revealed by the. draft, seems to have been resily the moat sensational fact of the war, says Frederic J. Haskin in the Chicago News. It has spurred congress to project and hold hearings upon comprehensive measures for physical education. It seems to have made a deep impression upon every thoughtful person in the country. K about half of the young men which the United-States produces are weak, sick, undersized, crippled or otherwise lnefiiclent, what is going to become of us as a nation? These seem to be the questions that thoughtful Americans are asking themselves. They stand oat all over the voluminous bearings QIK>P the ress bill for physical education. • Bill Provides Fundi ' This measure provides for ft Ifcfge appropriation to be divided among the states for use in promoting physical education, on the condition that each state must itself appropriate as much as it receives from the federal government Many of the leading educator* and physicians of the country appeared before the committee on education tn connection with the bill. They agreed unanimously that the draft had re- Gapes and Gape-Goats At' the Mai son Cle an original sort of cape is made of taffeta with collar and cuffs fringed and having very much the appearance of coque feathers carelessly gathered together. Marabou is brought forth again for nse as trimming for evening wraps and Madeleine et Madeleine have an exquisite cape made entirely of emerald green marabou. l<elong la partial, too, to the use of marabou In making the big, enfolding collars. Among this collection there are also evening capes of changeable taffeta with collars of coque feathers* Doucet is showing a cape of redfish lace which is very fascinating, *nd Martial et Armand are presenting models In the taanner of the court capes of 1830 made of dyed etamipe and trimmed with heavy filet dyed to natch. They have also a wrap of blue filet quite transparent, which la trimmed with bows and streamers of dre ribbon. But the most interesting model of all is a huge shawl In the center of which la an embroidered «foare of metal threads outlined with a border of black lace. This la wrapped about one and handled Just as the shawls of a century ago were managed, and it is promised that it will be one of the popularly accepted fashions of the season to come. Doeculllet has made a simple enough cape of red rough-woolen cloth, the tone of red that is liked best Just now, ' and for traveling there is at this house a cape of gray soede altogether charming. Brandt has a cape made of cut work on line beige woolen cloth, posed over black taffeta. This is an extremely successful model, of which a great deal of notice has been taken. At this house there are afternoon capes made of crepe de chine with long points at the sides. They are in white, gray or black, with straight, h i g h c o l l a r s . • r • » • ' • : o»V. y Laundry Mint When washing keep a stiff vegetable brush handy and use on dirty neckbands, wristbands. They will last longer than when rUbbed on boarjd. vealed an alarming condition of the public health and that nothing could be more important than to do whatever can be done to remedy condition. "It does not make any difference how much water power we have, or how many great projects there may be at any time," says Dr. Joseph E. Raycroft of Princeton university. "The real wealth of the nation is the health and efficiency of its people. Nothing else matters to the same extent- Doctor Raycroft reminded the committee that not only did the draft boards find it necessary to reject about 39 per cent of the men as physically unfit, but that from 40 to 80 per cent of those accepted in the vart ous drafts were found unfit after they were in the army and had to be sent to hospitals or to developmental battalions. He points out that the physical standard was lowered five different times in the effort to get enough men. In this way 4,000,0UU men were raised. Shortly before the armistice, when it looked as though a fifth million would be needed, he said it was a serious question whether another million men fit to tight could be found in America. In other words, a nation of more than 100,000,000 people could not pat forward 5,000,000 awn fit to carry a gun. Reasons Are Interesting. Most interesting are the reasons which various experts assigned for the low physical standard of manhood prevailing in this country. Doctor Raycroft assigns two principal ones. He calls them urbanization and industry. By urbanisation' he means the crowding of people into cities. He declares that in spite of allegations to the contrary, the recruits from rural districts showed a higher physical average than those from the cities. Undoubtedly the great army of poorly paid office workers; who lead sedentary lives and get almost no adequate recreation, is one big factor In the low average of health. Doctor Raycroft also seems to believe that many of the workers in onr great Industries are doomed by their occupations to ill health. He further believes that we are admitting great numbers of weak Immigrants who are lowering the national average of physical fitness. Hiifact lis onty btfifld at^ltt tho hearings, but It is well to know that malnutrition was a great factor In the low average of health among the drafted men. Many recruits gained greatly In weight and strength as soon as Uncle Sam began to feed them. This is what gives its great value to the movement for feeding schoolchildren. If the child gets plenty to eat in his growing years, he stands a better chance to make a good living when he has grown up. Starvu him as a child, and you have little chance of producing a useful man. Epidemic diseases, such as pi&laria, hookworm and trachoma, which can be eliminated or greatly reduced, are another great factor, as was brought out by Doctor Clark of tho public health service. k «« m m% % % % m % • Tht I V s t Low: Pnccd ILRULT HJ UL B d k 1 1 I L . Powder ( ) l)lc!!!U)li' Baking Coin a ins no Alum niwder Use l ( a n d S , i \ c ! W r i t e1 i< >! New Pf ookBoOh-l Pn< ( f^a K ihv) |\ >\vrlrr 1 torv too > 1 n< I r i k ' iu Inn <1 IMvd . ( I n< a Dodged About Tree for Hours to Escape Bull Playing tag with an Infuriated bull around a sturdy oak tree for several hours until rescued by fellow workmen was the experience of Albert Mc- Mahon, cattle roundup man employed on the grazing ranch of Frank Curran, near Cascade, la. Curran, two years ago, stocked a stretch of timber land, and until the herd was sold recently it had not been molested. Tbie semi wild bull knocked Mc> Mahon from his horse during the roundup. He sought refuge behind a tree, which the animal charged repeatedly, each time out-maneuvered by the agile Mc- Mahon, who managed continually to kee» .(**• between them. Runs in Family. Georgetown, Del.--While J. J. Ward a farmer near Georgetown, was lying in bed with s broken leg his smalt son fell from a bay mow and sustained a broken arm. With It In splints he stepped off the back porch In the dark and his leg was broken. A seven-year-old daughter fell off a wagon and also sustained a broken leg. His wife so far has not received any broken bones, but is busy attending to those so afflicted. German Beer Drinking Drops. Washington.--Beer drinking In Germany has fallen off by more than 750. 000,000 gallons a year as compared with pre-war consumption. Consul General William Coffin at Berlin reported to the department of commerce. Given New Law Code Fashions in Outer Wraps tllprvnenta of Ample Proportions With '-*-•1 Sleeves and\Comfertable Collars Are tikei If any one fashion In outer wraps (IB be said to dominate, then it Is the one of ample proportions, with targe roomy sleeves and a collar tbet winds in a spaciously becoming way about the throat. There are many and original ways that have been evolved to make the wrap look new apd sprightly, many of the details are varied but, on the whole, the lines and general effect are much the same ga that of the season just finished. V Patou shows collars that are so filled that they look, when buttoned Into placet like veritable padded pillows softly enveloping the neck. In ffcis collection there is shown one evening cape the upper portion of which 8 made of deep rose satin «nd the wer section cut from heavy black jT*lvet. The two fabrics are Joined by H * delicately wrought strip of embroidery which shows its stitching on both sides of the divide. Madeleine et Madeleine prefer the' cape without any reservations in the way of sleeves. They stick to the pure line of the flowing cape and have achieved wondlrful things on standard. One of their most successful models Is composed of three flounces; set one above the other. When these flounces are pushed back to show the foundation, another material is disclosed, and that Is something, which, by means of the contrast adds a new beauty to the cape. One of these capes is of brick-colored woolen cloth, superimposed over a foundation of black taffeta. Another is of blue serge, with a foundation of a heavy gray silk crepe. Still another is made of blue serge, mounted on a foundation of gayly printed foulard. At the time of the discovery America only known.! Samoan Statutes Revised Along American UQM. i - .L Big Contrast to Old System oftKetlatlves, Which Has Been in Force for Many Years. Pago Pago, American Samoa.--A new code of laws based on American statutes has developed in American Samoa from the disturbance of last year which culminated In the suicide of the governor, Commander Warren J. Terhune. The revised laws, drawn by Capt Waldo Evans, the new governor, and Judge A. M. Noble, and submitted to the native chiefs, mark an interesting change from the early laws provided for tlfe Samoans. When in 1900 the first secretary of native affairs. Judge Gurr, asked the native rulers of the Samoan villages to submit laws to Ulm for Tesom- I • • • • * £ • -- y f ] -- mendatlon to the first governor, he received from various villages a copy of the ten commandments of the Bible. This was accompanied with the suggestion that penalties for their violation should consist of a fine in the ahape of a hog and a barrel of beet These recommendations were not adopted as a whole, for such penalties would have resulted in every offense paving the way for a feast in the village This, officials decided, would prove too much of a temptation for the natives. It is the custom of the Samoans, and was then, that when any offense is complained of and the offender not known, for the native pastor, or native magistrate, to compel each person tn the village to declare his or her Innocence by oath on the Bible. On one occasion some church money was stolen from the box of a Samoan pastor, where It had been placed for aaterkeepipg. The .native pastor immediately went from boose to hoose with a Bible, swearing tn every In mate, but everyone declared innocence, He, however, forgot to take the oath himself, and the thief remained a mystery. Some years afterward the pastor be* came seriously III and his relatives were called together. Having made certain that they were all in a forgiv ing mood, he then confessed that he was the culprit. Under the circumstances his people felt they could not but forgive him. Thereupon it was astonishing bow rapid was his recovery. Lays Eggs Daily on Pig's Back, Yarmouth, Mass.--A pig and pullet who are barnyard pals, have com bined In a dally bacon and egg demon stratlon on the farm of Mrs. Harold Snowden here. Every morning the brisk young ben bops on the broad surface of the porker's back, nestles down and lays an egg. The pig lies motion less until Mrs. Snowden, notified by the bird's proad cackling, collects the latest addition to the family's food supply. It Is sometimes easier to take things I A widow is not necessarily IneoaMABS they come than It is to induce them I able merely because she remains m? to coma, > consoled. itnuriintntrfrfrfrrrr-T********* Torn Your Old FORDJTepJtato A ONE-MAN TOP PRECISION TOP CONVERTER A Precision Top Converter Installed la' connection with the frame and fabric of your old Ford top gives you a graceful stream line one-man top that la easily put up or down by one person _ from inside the car. AM* 100% to the APPEARANCE and CONVENIENCE el Eliminating the unslirhtty front bow» %ad .. » rs-* tension at rap*. It KIV.* a clear vl»ion Mid ; J unrestricted passage through the front doMl gV ICA Price complete for tonriag V • CAT (iC fooftboit* If your dealer cannot avpply m order direct from «a- Gence and Sapply n* Write at MM tor full detail* PRECISION METAL WORKERS, 3104 CAMMHLL AYR, IU» DOXT LET THAT COUGH COXT1KUX! Spohn's Distemper Coupon! will knock It tn very «h»rt time. At the ftnt ot or cold in your horee, (Ivt a few doaea ot "wOHin act on the gland*, eliminate the dlaeaeejgerra and ilttwt er <le»truct ton of body by atandard remedy for D18TIMPIR, INFLVlNU, PDHC CATARRHAL FEVER, COUGHS and COLDS fo* * qwrter Ot century, so cent. ard lrU^per bottle at all drgygga^ £ •rOHN MEDICAL COJOP Birth Rate of France Increases. Vital statistics show that the birth rate Increased In France in 1920. At Marseilles, for the first time in years, the number of births greatly exceeded the number of deaths. At Chalonsur- Soane total of births for the year was 689 and that of deaths 520 only, whereas the figures for li>19 had been: Births, 420, and deaths, 571. In ToUlon the number of births exceeded by 118 that of deaths, something that has not happened in 30 years. From Or-, leans satisfactory figures have also been communicated, and at Dieppe the cumber of births exceeded by 30 per cent the number of deaths. Different Viewpoints. Jiipmle was playing with the hoy next door. His older sister was sestK to get him, but he refused to comfe so she picked him up and carried him, screaming, away. This Is tht way his actions wore viewed by tha spectators: ' 4 Sister--He's a contrary little rogoa. Father--He's a stubborn little caL Neighbor--rHe's s little savage- Mother--How strong-willed JUnafe ii • ' : Bring Out the Relle. : likla reported that the old-fashioned mustache is coming back. The family which has preserved grandfather's mustache cup may yet ha,vf use for it.--Boston Transcript. v Rare, Indeed. Few persons who have admired the common "rose quarts" realise how very rare is the crystallized form. Only two specimens are known.' j., . tv", Apparently. He--"Do you really believe Ignorance is bliss?" She--"1 don't know. Yotl seem to be quite happy." v . Careful, Mother. Seven-yenr-oid Prlsdlla stood naU|b Ing her neighbor's, young hopeful eat* deavoring to masticate his big toA "Humph" she observed, "Mamma says you have a hard time to do it, but I guess your baby can do tt all right. Mis' Flske." "Do--do what, PrtscUla?*" "Make both ends meet." answered tha innocent little miss. , Merita on Land. ^ / "It'takes courage to be an av%ter."* . "One -kind of courage," replied Mf. Chugglns. "And yet it would be a comfort if I could sail my flivver into the clouds where there wouldn't bo any risk of meeting a recklless boop» \v' l.i.ii.Tt "i m* irritated traffic copw". •;*' Gives Helped by Extension Work of ^Department of Agriculture. Normal, Interesting Rural Communities Are Hope of Preserving »aV laded Rural Population. Washington.--Scarcely anything In the everyday run of human affalf^s la much more interesting than a hobby, particularly If It chance to have In it something of advantage to those whose lives, It may be, are filled with stern duties. Tho President of tha United* 8tates has a hobby. "If 1 can do anything to change disappointment into new hope," said Mr. Harding, speaking one afternoon to the Washington correspondents, "I shall have satisfied the best hobby a can have in this world." employed in tfca tension work of the United States Department of Agriculture, some for the children of the farms, some for the grown-ups, are doing Just this kind of thing without, perhaps, realizing that It'has become a hobby. Vera MeCrea, president of the New York State Federation of Home Bureau Managers, cites a case to Illustrate the point. Miss MeCrea Shows this letter from a farm woman: "As you know, 1 should have left the farm and country life, perhapa, and gone with thousands of others to the city If I could have done so. I bsve looked forward to the time when 1 might go. "But now the home bureau work among us has changed things. I am so absorbed in the work I am learning to do that I wouldn't leave the country for all the allurements of the city. "You know we all have visions, bat now sitae are tb# aaws as itmUL" "Socne figures attempt a financial measure of home burenu work," says a member of the extension staff employed in the North and West. 'ISven If accurate figures could De gathered about the most Important crop--the children--the crop with which the home bureaus are primarily concerned, would, they tell one-half the story? Children, well and happy, are worth whatever they cost Normal. Interesting rural communities are the hope of creating and preserving a satisfied rural population. Community enterprises help to make the farming regions what they should be if that iUa is to compete successfully with the attractions of the cities." Fawn Makes Early Call. Clearfield, Pa.--While Mrs. Earl F. Brown was attending to duties In the kitchen of her house on Martin street one day, she was surprised on looking through the window to see a pretty little fawn stepping gracefully about in the back yard. The little deer made a tour of Investigation, threw up its bead and started for tha woods bexpud the Irwin f?rm, Coffee don't agree DRINK P0STUM M •' ,U .V • V: wH