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POSTAL SERVICE IN AMERICA S OUT PLANS fm* ON THE MARKETING OF LAMBS • Abbreviated Garments in Novel Fabrics Popular for iht Fall Season. J >*, 5;»> i USE BABBIT HHP MONKEY FUR Is Being Given Much Premiss th« Decorative Feature ef 8ome of the Most Luxurious Coats. of the most notable successes among clothes have had as their basis a simple idea which must have occurred time and again to women all over the world, but we have become so accustomed to waiting for the mandates of fashion to come from fashion authorities that few women have the temerity to create models, or If th«y do create them they are afraid to wear their own creations, says a fashion writer In the New York Tribune. We have learned to wait for the cachet of some great maker to appear on a model before we accept it. Almost every woman haft felt the need of some sort of Informal jacket on the order of a sweater to wear over lightweight, short-sleeved dresses. There was nothing that filled this need, especially for the summer. Moat of the smart sweaters have; for the Knitted Jacket ancj Skirt In Blade and Colored Wool.r. last few years, been made to slip on over the head, which practically made it necessary to arrange of rearrange the hair after the garment was put Jackets Replace Coat Sweaters. Then the sweater Is such a closefitting garment that it crushes the frock; consequently, It Is hopeless- as a Jacket to wear over anything but a plain blouse where only the collars and cuffs show by being turneg back over the sweatet neck and sleeves. | are of gray Then, too, the summer sweater usually Is so thin that tlie ugly line of a short-sleeved dress shows half-way down the sleeve of the sweater. Practically every woman knew that some sort of jacket was needed in place of the old-fashioned loose coat-sweater that did such good service In bygone years, but she waited patiently for the great designers In Paris to launch this idea. Her patience was rewarded by the clock! coats. It may have been that there was' no material sufficiently Inspiring to the mind of the designer until Rodier brought out his fabrics in bits-, tered effects. This would look like a reasonable supposition, since the various creators of clothes selected clock! almost simultaneously for the short separate jackets which they succeeded in popularizing almost over night, for the demand for these Jackets is very great. It is not to be supposed that any one with any imaginative genius would stop with one sort of material for a new type of coat, so they have gone on from this material to others. Two-Tier Pockets on Model. Notable among some late models In the short separate coat is one in white satin clocki, trimmed with a border of black satin poppy petals loosely applied. This jacket Is smart when worn with a black cr^pe marocaln skirt and a black outdoor hat. It makes a most distinguished costume, and one which will be eagerly seized upon by the woman who is desirous of getting away from the set type of sweater and skirt and sweater and overblouse so universally* worn. Madame Jeqny, who so 'successfully caters to the well-dressed American, has found her greatest success in the separate coat In a model developed in white satin clocki trimmed with black suede, which takes the form of a border around the collar, pocket findings and bands on the sleeves. She varies from the usual coat pocket by making the pockets in two tiers, that is, two on the right aide just above the hip, one directly above the other, and she repeats this treatment In breast pockets. No great dressmaker has overlooked clocki in making up her mid-season or early autumn models. A two-piece suit with hat to match by Worth is developed in this material in citron yellow, a shade frequently used In suits earlier in the season and now prominent in both suits and jackets. A very striking jacket in black zenanna Is typical of the short, separate coat as exploited in the fashions of the moment. The black background sets off to excellent advantage multicolored embroidery ^pn the sleeves, collar and pockets. One would naturally expect that something more practical in material, but similar in cut, should follow In the wake of these glorified outing jackets because, when a fashion suddenly Qames .up almost over night, as it were, and takes such, a tremendous hold on the public in general It has somewhere in Its composition some of the qualities which make a best seller and no progressive dressmaker or manufacturer is going to relinquish such a profitable garment until every Idea that it contains has been exploited to the utmost. So for the autumn these magnificent coats will be followed by more practical ones of wool, many of them knitted after the fashion of the old-time sweater-coat. • Several great , dressmakers have gone still further with this idea, and have made skirts to match these jackets, especially in the wool things. Worth has a model with the jacket knitted in wool In plaid effect--gray, white and black. The shawl collar on the jacket and the xofli and girdle Rabbit Competes With Monkey's Pelt |fMiynt-ux shows a knitted jacket In white wool with pipings, buttons and belt of red leather. With this may be worn either a red or white wool skirt. Another interesting jacket Is of black and rust-colored wool in chine effect, with a trimming of black cire braid and a belt of black suede. Among the most luxurious of the short coats are those, of India cashmere trimmed with fur. j Frequently the fur Is monkey skin. There Is a vogue for rabbit dyed to- represent squirrel, chinchilla and kolinsky on short coats. At the beginning of a new season the seemingly small details of dress play an Important part. Vital questions, such as the silhouette, are not definitely settled.- So many Ideas are afloat as an aftermath of the French openings that It is unwise to <$ooire anch an Important tiling as a suit or a dress without a good deal of careful consideration, so women depend on those things known as the accessories of dress to give newness to their costumes. Now one may freshen ape's wardrobe by buying new collars and girdles, or perhaps a few bits of the costume jewelry which Is In fashion's limelight at the present time. There are any number of new collars, both of lingerie and of ribbon, which are made to fit the various shaped necklines in favor. Many of these are so unusual that a last season's dress or suit jacket may ha metamorphosed by the addition of one of them. White lingerie collars in plain and frilled effects are particularly smart when offset by black. Fine thread embroidery done in black Is often used. A further touch of black Is sometimes added by a bow of ribbon or perhaps a long streamer. *' "7 To Make 811k R, Crinoline is put under the taffeta roses that trim up-to-date frocks and hats. This gives bod# a^ ^a light perklnesa. • Fabric Hati Fabric hats will be in as usual for early fall. high fkvor FASHIONS FOR THE FALL SEASON (Prvptftd fry the United SUtea Department Afrie«lt«re ) Plans for the more orderly marketing of native lambs at Jersey City and New York city, and the elimination of violent fluctuations In prices of live and dressed lambs-at these markets, are to be worked out by a committee representing live stock commission men, slaughterers, retailers, railroads, stock yard companies at Jersey City and New York, eastern lamb producers and the United States Department of Agriculture. This committee was appointed as a result of the conference called recently by the United States Department of Agriculture, at Jersey City. At this conference members of the trade representing the various interests engaged In the handling, marketing, slaughtering and retailing of lambs at Jersey City and New York met representatives of 'sheep and lamb producers and the department. Practically all the factors responsible for the wide fluctuation in lamb prices at Jersey City during certain periods were brought out by full discussion. The conference developed the fact that the lamb problem at Jersey City I is a production and marketing prob- j lem combined, and that its solution lies largely in the hands of the producers and slaughterers of native lambs, although live stock commission men &nd retail meat dealers can assist in remedying the situation. Occupies Key Position, Jersey City occupies a key position In the channel of distribution between the lamb producers and the largest center of consumption. Inasmuch as it Is the final public concentration point for live lambs destined for New York city, the greatest consuming center for dressed lamb la the United States and a market that requires a high-grade product. It was shown that ordinarily Jersey City hap a reputation of being the highest lamb market in the country, but that during June, July and August It suffers violent price fluctuations be- »t!c than Better Breeding Stock Urged. market often are mors those in the live market It was agreed at the c^aftorcncc that producers of native lambs should use better breeding stock; supply ample feed both to the ewes and lambs for maximum gains in 'order to market the lambs before they become Infested with parasites, and practice docking and castration.* It was agreed, also, that producers In the different areas should reach an understanding which will lead to tha lengthening of the breeding and marketing period, and that they should coroperate in their marketing in such a way as will insure grading and sorting in the country and more orderly movement of lambs to market In this connection it was 'suggested that the practice which apiiears to be generally followed In certain states of contracting lambs to country buyers for delivery during stated periods is largely responsible for the Irregularity in the dally receipts at Jersey City. If shippers would consign some of their lambs, particularly the lower grades, to other markets, where there is a better outlet. It would do much towards remedying the undesirable conditions at Jersey City and New York. Feeding stations established in the East as reservoirs from which to feed the market as supplies are needed also were mentioned as a means for remedying conditions, Producers and commission men recommend that local and Western slaughterers co-operate by endeavoring to reduce the volume of their direct shipments and their shipments of Western dressed lambs to Jersey City and New York from Middle Western markets at periods when glutsu are known to occur, in order to insure a supply no greater than the demand. It was also suggested that live stock commission men advise their patrons as to when gluts usually occur and when there are good reasons to believe Lambs Being Assembled in Big Dipping Yard Pens to Be S<snt to th# Various Markets. Line With Color Tone; Novel Detail to. Add Youthfulnesa. ?! V&4,: At this time of the season, when Aftfker frocks are appearing to remind the smart woman that it is already time to think of foil modes. It Is not amis3 to mention a few potent notes that {jrocaliSe jbacfer of prominence for Ml. Creators of costumes, of course, have been thinking and dreaming of them for months, and many beautiful things are already in evolution. The French openings' have stressed points which will be style factors in the *W1- & The really smart dress for fall wear on the street wlll^BS rather conservative In line, with the color probably of somber tone, while a bright motif or a novel detail will make it youthful hi effect. Wool crape, wool rep, broadcloth kasha yUl be saen;-varying 1® lnterestlng details, such as inset plaits, cape treatments and smart collar developments. _• Fashion Note. too mnch embroidery--thia 1a the fancy of moment A gown looks a little strange with only half a dozen bits of embroidered motifs upon It after the many months of elaborately decorated girdles, bodices and pane Is J The only -ornamentation upon one dinner dress of fawn chiffon was an embroidered dahlia in shades of red and rose In the middle of the front panel, just above tlie hem. Another dahlia was posed high on the plain bodice, a«ar tha left shoulder. * !V ' ^ cause of the big Increase In receipts of native Iambs from Virginia, West Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Michigan and New York, without any material decrease In the supply of live and dressed lambs received there and at New York city from Western points. The situation is complicated by the marked Irregularity in the volume of the dally receipts during those months and by the inferior quality of the offerings, most of which arrive unsorted and ungraded. It was brought out that the poor quality of these lambs is fUie largely to the failure of producers! to use better breeding stock and proper feeding methods and to dock and castrate their lambs at the proper time. The fact that native lambs in so many instances become Infected In the summer months with diseases of parasitic origin, particularly stomach worms, makes it vanr important that they be marketed before the milk fat disappears. These lambs usually are dropped at a period which requires that they be marketed during the months of June, July and August, hence they are a perishable produce from a marketing standpoint Wlien they reach Jersey City in larger nuinberf than the demand can absorb, and come in competition with the high-grade live and dressed Western lambs, prices break sharply and affect the lamb market generally at ail poiuts. Declines in one will tear, explaining telly what happens whfti undesirable and unfinished tamba are sent R> the Jersey City market. It was recommended that retailers feature lamb in their advertising and selling efforts during the period ot excessive receipts and give consumers advantage ot recessions in wholesale prices. Apr steps takefri along this line would encourage consumption and tend to check price fluctuations. Personnel of Committee. Although the movement of native lambs to market will soon be completed for the current year, the conference was unanimous In Its desire to work out plans immediately which will insure more orderly marketing and less price fluctuation. Tlie following committee was appointed to work to this end with representatives of the United States Department of Agriculture: H. K. Nickell, United Dressed Beef company, New York; L. S. Joseph, vice president New York Butchers' Dressed Meat company, New York; George Kramer, United Master Butchers "of America, New York; H. D. WImer, Pennsylvania Railroad company, Philadelphia; George A. Shannon, vice president New York and New Jersey Live Stock association, Jersey City; J. H. Meek, chief, bureau of markets, Richmond, Va., and R. C. Bonhara, president and general manager Jersey City stock yards, Jersey City. FORECASTS INCREASE IN PROFITS Growers in West Receive Predic- . Through Aflents. , . , % r, f' '•V J ' JC I •fj Brown.. /If-../' Get ready for, u brown frock in your autumn wardrobe, for U la goin* to be the color leader. Almidy the smartest turbans, frocks, suits an." blouses are being shown in all shades tvmt .um tm Mt Jhm fa Largely Grown From Qrop and if Season 'Is Late Frost and Harvest Periods Come Close Together, . flfiiUMl Mr th« United states Puirtawt of Agriculture.) Forecasts of weather conditions for alfalfa harvest are widely distributed In the West, particularly in Oklahuiua, where 2,000 or more growers receive the forecasts through the local agents of the extension service of the United States Department of Agriculture. In Utah a rather limited t>ut important frost-warning service for alfalfa-seed growers Is In, operation. Seefl is largely grown from the second crop, and if the season is late the harvest and fall frost periods come close together.* As the seed crop Increases in value at the rate of about $5 a day for each acre of seed when nearlng maturity,-the growers let the seed stand as long as possible. When temperatures low enough to cause •i damage are predicted bjN tfce weather bureau It is not unusual for the seed growers to ran their cutting machined moat of the night In one section of Utah during a re. cent harvest season fully 500 acres of seed w^re cut after receipt of tha warnings, at an average saving of $20 to $30 an acre. Two of these growers reported that they Isaved at least $2,000 as a result of the weather in formation furnished by Uncle Sam concerning frost conditions. ^ ~ ~ " " " " " ~ • ; Alfalfa fqr Lewasi Feed CogtA; The man who has alfalfa on his place has one of the cheapest sources of protein available. Sometimes the value ot alfalfa for protein is lost sight of, because hljh protein feeds have. so* often been cheaper to feed even than low protein materials. However, with silage and alfalfa one of the most economical rations possible la had by the fortunate feeder wh« has both of these excellent feeds. Th« combination is excellent for the rough age supply for all kinds of live stock and especially for dairy cattle. Th amount of expensive concentrate necessary is markedly reduced wltl r»ducttat to tha production. institution Had'Ma tAoaption In 1M1, When British King Authorized It# Beginning. The real beginning: of postal service in America dates from February 17, 1691, when William and Mary granted to Thomas Neale, by letters patent, authority to establish such a service, and to hold the privilege for 21 years. Neaile remained in England, and nominated as postmaster general for Amer- 0PP0RTUN1TY TO EVERY MAN Life's Ambitions Can Generally Be. 4taat|pe4 If One la Willing |» V : Pay the Price. » t-tfe's Ideals are not always capable of being realized. Too many people have the same desires and glut the market. Besides, only a few can do what they thought they could. It's no wonder such folks are easy prey for the human vultures that hover hear tha carrion pits. lea Andrew Hamilton, an Edinburgh merchant, who had formerly lived in New Jersey. Hamilton started Hamilton'* Intercolonial postal union on May 1, 1000-- a weekly service between Portsmouth, N. H., and Vlrglnlfa. Arrangements were made to dispatch and receive mall between the Colonies ^anii all parts of the civilized world. Irregular posts and shorter routes had existed before. William Penn, in Pennsylvania, the General courts of Massachusetts and Connecticut. In But this Is no reason why you should Join the ranks of the unfortunate. It's your time to make good, my boy. The old world has opportunities on the begging list The trouble is folks don't want them. Why not tackle the Job nearest you? Put the enthusiasm of your play, and the Intelligence 1!>f your best thinking into what yon da Play the game as If you meant to win. The results will justify you. Your record will depend on you. Our greatest men are the product of their • -ted, -r Own Story deposed emperor will be published in The Chicago Daily News, beginning Tuesday, September 26, continuing in daily installments until completed. New England, and In New York, had each tha carrying on of local postal Splendid Code for Humanity- What's brave, what's noble, It after the high Roman fa make death proud to take Avenge Nfemerjr. The average individual remember* three-fifths of what he sees and eaaflfth of what ha hears. a own industry. Head and the record that places you nation's honored citizens. doing his best can rise to the hocki of his ambitions If ha artll pay tha price.--Grit Sporting Element. "Golf la my favorite exerdsa*: "I prefer gardening. Tha ments are cheaper than thoaa golf. ' and there's always a chance that you may raise fit to eat"--Boston Transcript ie story is well told, and will command the attention of readers everywhere. Many of ther author's opinions and statements are fantastic from the American point of view, but interest in the: narrative is increased, rather than lessened, by thia i fact. Old controversies are sure to be revived, old discussions renewed, by the former kaiser's defense of Germany and his attacks on the leaders of other nations. For instance^ he takes seriously the old absurd 'canard about a secret treaty against Germany, and Austria, in 1897, by the United States, Great Britain and France. This is only one of his declarations that will amaze-^-and amuse-=>. the American reader. ,.v T:r U'- •:9sfc- 'S ^... ?f\ Beginning: with a chapter on Bismarck; the e«-emperar traces history through four decades. In a general way the story is chronological, although in the opening chapters the writer, often diverges into events long past, or into the remote future# But from the time he reaches the period immediately preced-" ing the world war die story moves in rapid action and is ill many respects informative, not withstanding the author's prejudice, eccen&icity* and, m many instincts, hi& surprising misinformation. "V. It is a story of,absorbing interest to the reader of history4 and of current events alike, and is bound to create a world of discussion. It deals not only with the direct events of the war, biit covers a mass of most important collateral matter intimately or remotely related to the war. Here are some of the significant *high spots**" in a analysis of the story: j Why Bismarck Went Out - ^ Diplomacy With England Tangier Visit and Moroccan Crisis Germany's Denial of War Aims Propaganda Before War Germans and Art Treaiur* 'The Wrong ef Versailles'* Secret Talks with the Czar Visit to Victoria's Deathbed King Edward's "Encirclemsnt** Failure of German Diplomacy Attitude of Sir Edward Gray •M 90 Karl of Austria • • -- Swapping Zanzibar for Heligoland Chamberlain Offer of Alliance Russians as Asiatics ' Germany's Naval Plans Charges of Atrocities Wilson and the 14 Points Germany When Defeat Came, # Fatherland and World's Qpinift The Flight to Holland ^ Why Kaiser Avoided Suicide Germany of the Future Publication of this remarkable autobiography began this week in The Chicago Daily 'News--the first installment on Tuesday, September 26. Newsdealers throughout the northwest have increased their usual supply of the paper, and can give new readers either back numbers beginning with Tuesday, or an advance "preprint" of all the chapters printed in the paper from Tuesday, September 26, to Saturday, September 30, thus insuring to #ery new reader "The German Kaiser's Story" from the beginning,' ^ * Readers who find it more convenient to get the paper by mail may send $1.00 to The Chicago Daily News, IS North Wells street, Chicago, and get it, postage paid, daily for two months. • . < £ ar off MM 4