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of $100,000. He Is stated to have given $200,000 to the last Democratic campaign (and, and $25,000 to the Republican war chest. He was, It will be remembered, put In nomination for vice president at the last Democratic national convention. He gave $250,000 to the Irish cause. He bet $300,000 on Wilson's election nnd Intended to bet half a million, but his wife found It out and stopped him. Doheny sent $100,000 to Fall In a satchel, at his friend's request. "It Is^no more of a sacrifice for me to let a frier.il have $100,r 000 than It is for many men to part with $10 or, $15." So he testiQed it» the oil lease investigation. And it's a good guess, say those who know him well, that he meant nothing wrong by it. Otherwise, they say, he never would have sent It by his son Eddie, who t| the apple of his eye. Doheny looks and taUts like a college professor. On occasion he can get very angry Indeed. Re had a flat fight with one of his Los Angeles architects. He was angry clear through ^fcien he testified before the com^ttee of the .. senate m Smart Styles for At this time of the year the costume becomes a matter of paramount Importance to every woman who has even the slightest pretensions to being smartly dressed. The late season has given ample opportunity for the new Paris styles to have been seen, adopted, adapted and discarded In the fashionable centers of this country, and even the most conservative woman can now acquire her wardrobe without fear of becoming demode or bizarre. Tbe scope of the springtime mode la wide, says a fashion writer In the New York Tribune, yet there are certain marked and definite differences which distinguish this year from it* predecessors. To point out these changes and to Indicate the accepted fashions for spring we have made a tabloid analysis of the outstanding characteristics of the new clothes. Tbls particular article concerns tbe drees. SILHOUETTE--The silhouette of last season's dresses Is fundamentally unchanged. It Is simple, almost affectedly so, slim and straight. The straight line, usually short. Is either unbroken or else interrupted by means of some of the details tabulated below. WAISTLINE--The entirely-absent waistline distinguishes the most modish of new frocks. However, the high and low line are decidedly en regie-- the stronger trend being toward the latter. The high Dlrectoire waist has Ml lived op to Its ^early forecasts al- Grtgrrr't JlfKFsri<?A By JOHN DICKINSON 8HERMAN .« . OHENY and Sinclair--as picturesque as famous! So reads the headline. There are some of course who will say that the last word of this headline should be longer by another syllable. That is neither here hor there. Thhr writer holds briefs neither for nor against Doheny and Sinclair. Nor Is this article "all about the oil scandal." Ihe purpose simply is to set forth some of the high •pots in the lives of two Americans who are both picturesque and famous. They have always been picturesque. And they were famous long before tbe oil scandal broke. Doheny is one of the richest men in the world WMl probably the third richest American. His property holdings are International; so are his industrial and commercial operations. His several homes are palatial. His Casiana is the finest private yacht afloat. His money gifts and contributions to charity and politics have been large. Rls name is known all over tbe world, irrespective •f the oil lease investigations. Sinclair is also a very rich man, whose international property holdings and financial operations fcftve given him a wor'd-wlde reputation. The American baseball- world knows him. Wherever men race thoroughbred horses he is known as the owner of Zev, winner of the last Kentucky Derby and international champion, the greatest money- •winner of any horse in history. Albania tried to Induce him to be its king. "Sinclair" is a garage anion? the 16,000,000 American owners of automobiles. So these two men are famous, Irrespective of the oil lease investigations. In the strict sense of the Word. And picturesque! Head what follows. Edward Laurence Doheny was born In 1856 at IPond du Lac, Wis., with a wanderlust. So, after going through the high school, he went west and became a prospector for gold and silver. The prospector gets someone to grubstake him, packs bis outfit on a burro and heads for the wildest country he can find. The hardships kill off many. The solitude drives most of the survivors crazy. Those that retain both life and r,eason are strongly indivldualistlp--and different from almost any other kind of man. Fill In a gap of twenty years or so in Doheny's <career as a prospector to suit yourself. They say tils acquaintance with Albert B. Fall, another jpicturesque adventurer of the West, began in 1880. About 1887 Doheny drifted Into Kingston, N. M. "We need a school teacher," said the citizens. He had to eat, so he taught school. He was made head of a vigilance committee to rid the community of cattle thieves, bandits and bad-men. He got a lot of them. The rest ordered him to leave. He didn't go. In July of 1887, on the main street of Kingston, a cattle-rustler fired 16 bullets from his rifle at him. The man was known as a dead shot, but not one of the bullets touched Doheny, who then walked across the street and arrested the rustler. JtiKZAzR'j jzjfy--sr" shovel they tackled the pit Thirty feet down tbey found, oil. They put in a ptomp and made enough money to start out on a thousand-mile prospecting trip all over California. They got control of a great acreage in what are now the California oil fields. Thenceforth their rise to wealth was rapid. Canfleld died a millionaire and bis family now has large Interests In the Doheny holdings. Doheny's .California profits enabled him to spread out into Mexico. Mexico made It possible for him to spread out ail 'over the world. In Mexico, for Instance, his companies own something like 1,400,000 acres on the east coast. He has spent on surface Improvements about a third of a billion dollars--In pipe-lines, railroads, roads, stofjage- tanks,, refineries and what not. His oil-tank steamers carry so much "black gold" out of Taiopico that they have made It, in value of exports, the second port on this continent. Now here is something that bears directly on Doheny--and In a measure explains him. Oil is the biggest gamble on earth. In every phase of its production the itetroleum business is literally the most highly speculative on earth. When the speculation is successful, the financial rewards are enormous. Such men as Doheny comet to look on life as a huge gamble. Money ceases to be money to him. It Is power. If he wants a thing, he see* no reason why he should not go and get It. * Doheny married Carrie Estelle Betzold of Marshalltown, la. He has a magnificent town house In Chester Place In the heart of Los Angeles. There Were some 40 mansions there when he bought. He then purchased the entire block--so that he could dictate who his neighbors should be. In 1915 the Dohenys were preparing for an elaborate entertainment. He thought an apartment bouse facing the park was unsightly. So he bought^ It and .moved It a block, at a cost of $100,000. V At Chester Place he has a vast steel, concrete and glass observatory, 77 by 230 feet. It houses one of Doheny's hobbles--the largest collection o# palms in the world, every known »i>ecies collected 065- the second time. He had read the newspapers Harry Ford Sinclair was. born In Wheeling, W Va., In 1876 and his parents moved to Independence, Kan., In 1882. He got his education in the public schools. John Sinclair, his father, was a druggist and wanted Harry to follow on. So Harry took a pharmacy course in the University ol Kansas. But hard times struck Kansas and Harry lost the Union Drug store. - « Sinclair next appears to view In Oklahoma a little before thr; oil fever broke but there. Old-timers at Ponca City say he worked as a drug clerk and for a short time as a waiter in a restaurant Soon, however, he was operating a successful brokerage office. Anyway, he became locally famoys ai the owner of the first silk underwear ever seen in the Cherokee Strip. Later he also operated In* other towns, Including Bartlesviile. Just west of Bartlesviile was an oil lease that Sinclair and a baker wanted to buy. Tbe baker had some money. Sinclair had none. Sinclair went hunttng quail with John Vann, a deputy ' sheriff. Sinclair tried to drag his gun after him through a barbed-wire fence. Result N«f. 1, the loss of part of his foot. Result No. 2, $5,000 Insurance money. Result No. 8, the purchase of the oil lease. Result No. 4, Sinclair and the baker disagreed and flipped a coin. Sinclair won and *cbose the half which turned out good. He got seme producing wells and then and there started -his financial climb skyward. This was around 1900. He was shrewd enough to see that a *'rock hound," as the geologists are called In the OH fields, had all the best of It. So he studied the Scientific end of the oil business from A to Z. Sinclair's operations during his financial rise would fill a book. His name Is known in every Oil-producing region of earth. Sinclair, through his various Interests, has holdings pretty much everywhere. He has concessions In Russia', Palestine and Saghalln. He is stated to own something like 2,000,000 acres In Central America, and a 55 per cent Interest in a 45,000,000-acre concession in Angola, on the west coast of Africa. In the Persian field he Is credited with beating out both the British government and the Standard OH. Sinclair has made two ventures outside of oil and made both pay. One was baseball. He was one of the big men In the Ill-fated Federal league. Lots of people lost money in that deal, bat not (Sinclair; he got out with a profit. - The. other is racing. Deciding to have a stable, he bought the horses of Sam Hildreth of the Rancocus stable, purchased the famous old Pierre Lorillard place at Jobstown, N. J., near Harry Payne Whitney's Brookdale farm and with Hildreth began breeding and racing on a big scale. Last year tbe Rancocas stable, under Hlldreth's management and with Earl Sande as Its premier jockey, stood at the head of American owners With the world-record winnings of $438,840. The star of the Sinclair stable is Zev, a brown Colt by The Finn-Miss Kearney, now a four-yearold. Last year Zev won 12 out of 14 races and $272,008. As a two-year old in 1922 Zev won $24,- The total, $296,673, makes him the champion "4 This bad-man got a long sentence in the pen for his crimes. Here began the legend that Doheny bore a cbarmed life. Another time, in a town visit between prospecting trips, a drunken man started to •hoot Doheny in the back. A friend, Dan Grady, leaped on the drunken man and saved Doheny. Death was cheated a third time when Doheny fell down a mine-shaft--and only broke both ankles. At forty this unsuccessful wanderer of the wild' places found himself dead-broke on the outskirts Of Los Angeles. A negro drove past with a load of queer-looking brown earth. Doheny took up a handful. It was oily. The driver explained that It was "breer"--brea, Spanish for pitch. Doheny hurried to the pit, where the -stuff was being dog for the making of a cheap fuel. He had ntfver seen even an oil derrick, but be amelled oil. Doheny hustled off to an old side-partner, Charles Canfleld. Together they returned tp Los Angeles--with ten cents between them, which they Invested in grapes, being hungry. With pick and from all parts of tbe tropics. Another building, specially constructed for the purpose. Is said to contain the largest and most varied collection of orchids in the world. Ills estate at Beverly Hlll% on the outskirts of Hollywood, Is of vast acreage,' It is one of tbe show spots of southern California. Doheny's yacht, the Casiana, said to be the finest afloat, is 254 feet in length and 33 feet beam; Its gross tonnage Is 1,227 tons. Its crew numbers 38 officers and men. It has a storage capacity for a trip of 7,000 miles. Doheny is no tightwad. And he is no piker when it comes to spending. In 1914, when Villa was ravishing Mexico and leaving hordes of starving pe<v pie In his wake, Doheny filled a ship with $200,00# worth of provisions and sent It down to Tampicf for the sufferers. Just now he is bearing the entire expense of erecting for St Vincent's Roman Catholic church In Los Angeles, a new edifice at a cost which may reach a million. He built and equipped for the Good Samaritan hospital (Episcopal) in Los Angeles, a radium annex at a cost money-winner of the world, surpassing the longstanding record of the English horse Isinglass, $291,275. Zev's victories In the 1928 Kentucky Derby, In the international match race with the English, champion Papyrus and in the match race' with In Memoriam need no recounting here. If Zev trains on this year, he will be one of the American horses to meet the French champion Eplnard, who comes over for three special races this summer at Belmont park. Aqueduct and Latonla, totaling $100,000 added money. Incidentally Sinclair has St least six entries In the 1924 Kentucky Derby which are considered formidable at this writing. Sinclair's intimates say he is the best of company, an Inveterate practical Joker, and always ready to take a sporting gaftible. He married Elizabeth Farrell of Independence, Kan., In 1908 and has two children. The Sinclairs live In an apartment at 975 Fifth avenue. New York, and have a country home at Great Neck, L. L, of 30 acres with a shore front of half a mile. Clever One-Pleos Proek for Spring and Summer Wear Is Developed In White Flannel, Appllqued In Black, Worn With a Little White Felt Hat. though exploited by pnfmlnent Paris designers. In a word, there are no confining dicta concerning the waistline save that It should never be exaggeratedly marked. High, low or Invisible-- all are acceptable. 8LEkVks--Sleeves are what you wilL Long, short, tight, flaring, all •re sanctioned by the benevolent despotism of the mode. And many dresses are quite without any sleeves. SKIRTS--Much of the elaboration of the current styles centers about the skirt, which is definitely shorter. Paris dictates a Jength reaching to fifteen inches from the ground, but a modified interpretation exists over here where the skirt Is abbreviated at from ten Xtf twelve Indies oft the ground. * DETAILS--Panels, flounces, tunics and godets are the popular methods of ornamenting the simple silhouette. These trimmings are concentrated at the front of the skirt, leaving the back plain and quite flat. Plaits are universal. and the scarf, an almost Inalienable accessory. Is often cut In one with the costume. COLORS--White, black and the two combined are the outstanding shades of the season. Navy blue and white, red and white, red and black, beige and black, black with colored embroidery, nnvy blue, Jade green and greens in the almond and charteuse shades, lacquer red, banana yellow, powder blue, mauve, beige and the various shades of brown are among other leading colors. As usual, the vivid hues and combinations prevail for the evening, while the more conservative shades are seen in Informal dress. Woolen plaids are favored for sports and plaid silks are Important In afternoon costumes. FABRICS--Silk alpaca shows the way over an almost Incredible range of materials, which includes supple crepes, satins, artificial silks and various laces. Silks are plain and printed --crepe de chine, satin and. crepe romalne lead the staples, while printed georgettes and novelty crepes predominate In the fanciful fabrlca. Among the woolens, reps, kaaha, cashmere and serge are Important Jackets, Skirts and Trimmings. The tailored suit Is clearly one of thfc most important developments of the springtime mode. In Paris its vogue has been tremendous; an«f ^rhlle It will undoubtedly not attain such popularity on these shores, its reception has nevertheless been quite enthusiastic. SILHOUETTE--Trim Is the adjective which describes the outline of the suit and It corresponds to the straight, short and simple one of the dress. Coats feature straight lines in box effects and skirts are equally severe. THE JACKET^--Jackets are usually short and frequently In bolero form, although an exception Is Cheruit who shows long, straight Jackets in masculine effect Hip-length Jackets which fit the figure snugly are either straight box affairs or else are slightly fitted at the waistline, A smart touch Is given by means of a capelet which Is attached at the back of the jacket Belts are of every variety. 8ome reach all tbe way around the coat others stretch only across the back, while a large proportion of suits are entirely beltless. Generally a note of boyish simplicity characterises the Jacket THE SKIRT--The skirt is always severe, even when, as In the Drecoll model, It Is not entirely simple. Shortness, ?oo, nvore pronounced than In the dress, Is an abiding characteristic at this part of the suit. TRIMMINGS--The dominant type of trimming Is conservative and harmonizes with the fabric of the suit Fine black silk, called tailor's braid, hinds the edges of suit coats and Is Inlaid under inverted plaits. Or a tallleur of whipcord en bayadere may have a self trimming of the material, but in this instance the cords will run vertically. The idea is never to disturb the severity of the coetume through a glaringly contrasted trimming. . For the neckline either the scarf cut tn one with the Jacket or the tailored collar Is invariable. An occasional Inverted plait appears at the back of the coat. WRIGLEY5 .After Every Meat It's the longest-lasting confection yon «*»• bay --and irs a help to digestion and a cleanser for the moulli and teeth. Wrtflley*« • benefit as well FREE TO YOU --the Yacht Ctab Mammies Salads Write today tor a free copy oi fhe Yacht Club Manual of Salads ---a really practical book on tilt art oi salad To malca the b«M ol atktk VMM , alwan un New Styl« Yacht Stlld It is miki, -- always read/ -- alway* frocar can mippi; you. dub food. You ^ACHT(£jjb .AStyle SALAD DRESSING 314 N. Qark St •• . i j-. Truth sleeps when moncr Truks. Latest Fashions in Coats The essentially unchanged outline of the coat has shifted the burden of distinguishing the new models to the details of fabric, color and trimming. TUB SILHOUETTE--The silhouette of the coat, while usually straight, shows an Increasing tendency to flare from tbe knees downward. Modified flounces and panels also emphasize the trend away from the unqualifiedly simple outline. The length of the coat varies from three-quarters to long, and the more modish models emphasise the former. SLEEVES AND COLLAR--8leeves are unchanged--they are wide and nsnally bell-shaped or raglan. The conventional sleeve with no touch of the bizarre Is characteristic of this season. Tbe lines of the collar are on tbe whole unaltered save for the strong Influence of the scarf, which has been Introduced particularly In •Ilk wraps. DETAILS--The dlrectoire effect is stress«*d either by means of the twotiered circular cape or through the slightly fitted type which is long and i • deep revere and pocket flaps usually of black satin. The looseness of the current models is particularly apparent at the back and Is mad« more emphatic by the complete absence of a belt. In general, the upper section of the coat Is loosely fitted, while the lower portion Is cut on narrow lines to the knee depth and is readily conformable to the wn around adjustment which marks t^ present-day coats. EVENING COATS--Formal wraps are subject to none of the restrain Ing Influences of the daytime mode and as consequence any type of evening coat that tumbles some current motif--be It ever sb remotely--Is acceptable. ^n oriental tone prevadei these wraps du solr, with their golden tissues, their white artificial satin? and their Chinese lacquered brocades. THE SCARF--Finally the scarf, originally a sports motif, has at last penetrated to the ranks of the evening cloak, where It d'#ingulsh< numerous models either as a detach* accessory or as a component part < tbe coat- ' Important to All Women Readers of This Paper Swamp-Root a Fine Medicine Thousands upon thousands of a niina iMure kidney or bladder trouble anil never suspect it. Women's complaints often prove to be nothing else but kidney titrable, or the result of kidney or bladder disease. If the kidneys are not in a healthy eon. dition they may cause the other organs to become diseased. You may suffer pain in the Ith iifc^ headache and loss of ambition. Poor health "makes yoa nervous, irritable and may be despondent; it any one so. But hundreds of women claim that Dr. Kilmer's Swamp-Root, by restoring health to the kidneys, proved to be just the remedy needed to overcome sash conditions. Many send for a sample bottle to see what Swamp-Root, the great kidney, liver and bladder medicine will do for them. By enclosing ten cents to Dr. Kilmer it Co., Binghamton, N. Y., you may receive sample size bottle by parcel post. Yoa can purchase medium and large size bottles •t all drug stores.--Advertiseasent. ' ki:"4 j, The best specific for grief is action. Sure Relief FOR INMGESTIOIt BEUIAMS Hot water Sure Relief ELL-ANS ^54 AND 75* PACKAGES EVERYWHERE PARKER'S-" HAIR BALSAM MnOuanf-tionBilrMhl If--tori Color sad B«Mtrt*Gn?aaJFiMA| Ihmmx aad (Uttt Dnortaa Qua. Wt» P»tefco«»».S.T. HINDERCORNS -- o» I' MOM all pal* i--un toafDrtloM Cuticura Talcum. Unadulterated Exquisitely Scenteif Error in Message Sent U. S. S. Maine to Cuba ITt . * The story of the caoae of the Spanish- American war, as told by Walter > Scott Meriwether of Mississippi, who • was a newspaper correspondent at I Havana when the war waa declared, la contrary to all others. Most histories say the Maine was sent to Havana as an Intimation that the Americans In Cuba would be protected by their government. Bnt Mentha Maine was aent becanse of a misinterpreted cable message which a newspaper correspondent In Havana sent to his paper In New York. As the new story goes, John R. Caldwell wanted his paper to send him a revolver from New York, the sale of firearms being banned in Havana. The revolver came without ammunition, so tbe correspondent decided to cable for some. As Us massage had to paes the cenaors, he i official vWashlngton was notified. By wrote: "Camera arrived but no plates. ' midnight the Maine was under orders Please hurry by n*>xt steamer." ; to proceed immediately to Havana An assistant editor received the j harbor on January 24, I8SW, and was message, but knowing nothing of the J blown up and sent to the bottom Febsendlng of the revolver, understood It | runry 14.--Detroit News. to imply more than was said, because ; 1 ' -- ;-- Caldwell's full name was signed. With j Real Satisfaction the aid of a code book the editor de- ; ,v/Don't whine if life pitches yon some ciphered the message tp mean that j mean twisters. Sooner or later your the American consulate In Havana ' chance will come and, when it does, had been attacked. i put all your brain and brawn Into your .The message wal received about ! swing. There's no satisfaction to « 9:80 p. m. and, as soon as deciphered, ; real uan like a seen* w^U earned) Odd Features in Modes of Interest to Milady Gold lace Is being made Into sumptuous garments. Gauffered lace Is treated with a scarf-like effect which gives a distinctly Hindustanee effect to the costume. Now tbst real flower muffs are being used in London, the real flower bracelet Is In again. Real flowers also are employed In the coiffure these spring evenings. The shingle bob and Its fellow doeeeropped styles has made necessary a round comb. This adjunct holds the hair In place over the ears and keeps It smooth across the top of the head. Tbe more she looks like an awning the better tbe sports frock debutante will be pleased. Very wide stripes. In •uch combinations as green, cream and black, or yellow and red, are favorites at present for tbe little frock ef cloth. A variant a* the cloche--which Is still with us--has a little slashed brim turning up abruptly off the face. Tbe brim Is faced with tiny flowers. chamois gloves for the very Uttte girl come in white, as smartly stitched as the gloves that mother wears. Only In the case of the little girl the gloves are sometimes ornamented with dalnthy little floral patterns around the wrist. Dance frocks are growing more and more picturesque. Instead of alngU flowers they are strewn with little artificial nosegays fastened here and there over girdle, bodice and skirt. . Amber and Lapis A new Idea in Jewelry Is the iMg necklace of dark, reddish amber bead* alternating with beads of lapla. Th« blue sets off the dark amber aamlra bly, while the lights In the anibei beads offset the somber quality of th< lapis. AlriQht Chips off ~-H» Old Block N? JUNIORS--Uttta Ms One third tin regular das*. Made of same ingradfentat tb«a candy coated. For chiMrwa and aduhfe •sMLO BY YOU* 'Plaids A|aia A gay note for the tailored suit i; s scarf of brilliantly plalded silk The scarf ^ ftMttafl ieasatj «N«N i the throat | w. N. U, CHICAGO, NO. CREAM WANTED Hurhcat pricca b«kL Writt for prim ud Mw*lv-Wtnl D*ir? Co.. 2OO0-.l*C*lmMt Am» CIwiio. PI. Re/.: tFounr«aum«L u Kat'l Banfc. I /