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THB McHBWRY PLA1HPBAI.ER, McHEOTtT, ILL n"\ }m*mmr '^.' mum** •Sfe*>*5"ft*? X N iHM?.-?:.** *&«» fupw-j* Gowns and Wraps on 7*2& <SmF>I>Z&YTr Is Alaska the flea [Jupply of the Future? By JOHN DICKINSON SHERMAN HE prophet who predicted that Alaska's rapidly growing reindeer • herds are destined to play an lm- J Portant Part In Bupplylng the future •-- American with food Is gaining In honor noticeably these days, even in his own country. For one thing, the statisticians are busily writing of the day not far distant when the food demand shall run ahead of the food supply. They figure that In that day the United States will have a population «f 200,000,000, of which 160,000,000 will be town fad city people and 40,000,000 farmers. '- Moreover, philanthropists are founding instltu- |Hons for agricultural research "that man may not •farve." Stanford university Is preparing to take over Luther Burbank's experimental farms that Ills work may go on uninterrupted. Chemists are discussing tlie probabilities of synthetic food. The Navy department Is planning a scientific Investigation of our salt water fish Ufa A congressional committee Is Inquiring Into the complaints of the live-stock men of the West of dwindling herds and of the management of the grazing in the national forests. The federal government is displaying much interest In Alaskan reindeer herds. W. T. Lopp, chief of the Alaska division of the United States bureau of education for thirty-one years, has left his home in Seattle and gone to Baffin land, the big Canadian Island between Greenland and the North American mainland, to organize the reindeer Industry for the Hudson's Bay company. What of it? Why, this is a bit of news of real importance. It not only proves that the world does move but also point* out the #Tectlon in which it is moving. Offhand the news reads more like a joke than ft sober fact. Imagine the Hudson's Bay company doing a thing like this--Hudson's Bay company, chartered in 1670 by Charles II of England and the biggest and most efficient monopoly the world ever saw. With power of life and death and monopoly of trade, it successfully barred all progress. H. B. C.^-"Here Before Christ," as translated by the oppressed--was on its banner. Teacher, missionary and settler were anathema to its rulers. Pro pelle Cutcm--"skin for skin"--was the motto on its great seal and it took the skin from the Indlap, skinned him in the trade, reduced htm to slavery and kept him there. Not even a post factor was allowed to make a garden, lest he give the lie to the "inhospitable wilderness." The "freetrader" in furs was killed off. It Ignored the exploring, obligations of its charter, set up a few scattered trade posts and made the Indian come to them. It piled up enormous profits In secret and successfully stood off Investigation by parliament It was not unUl 1870 that the British government forcibly released its strangle-hold on British North America. Fifty years of Canadian progress have H. B. C. richer than ever, owing to the value of the land It retained--land which for 200 years It Insisted was unfit for the habitation of the white man. This half century of progress has also forced a complete face-about In policy. H. B. C. Is now selling its "fertile" lands and is running a chain of department stores in the thriving cities that have developed since Its monopoly was broken. H. B. C., what Its sins against civilization, has always made great profits. So If It Is going In for reindeer promotion in^Baffin land--why, rh^t Is proof positive that the reindeer business has a big future. Nevertheless, the fact that EL B. C. Is taking an expert from "outside" to manage the business has Its humorous aspect; In the "good old days" ••outsiders" who attempted to get Inside were in danger of growing old. Another point to the joke Is this: Had H. B. C. carried out the terms of Its charter, Alaska would not now be ours, but would be In all probability British territory. And here's an amusing situation in connection Vlth our own reindeer In Alaska. According to the schedule of "official duties" of the executive departments of the federal government the commissioner of education, chief of the bureau of education of the Department of the Interior, "has - charge of the schools for the education of native children in Alaska and of the support and medical relief of natives of Alaska; supervises the reindeer Industry in Alaska." The bureau of biological survey of the Department of Agriculture "studies the diseases to which fur bearers are subject In captivity; investigates Alaskan reindeer management, and administers federal laws relating ... ' to Alaskan land fur-bearing animals." Alaska has large herds of- wild cariboo. Reindeer and caribou are practically the same animal, the reindeer being the domesticated cariboo. Reindeer grazing in Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia and Siberia dates far back in history and la of considerable economic importance. Up to 1891 Alaska had no reindeer. That year ten reindeer were brought in from eastern Siberia and in 1892 were Imported 171. Total importations of 1,280 were made up to 1902. These Importations were made by the United States bureau of education on the Initiative of Sheldon Jackson In order to provide means of livelihood for the Eskimo®, whose hunting resources had been much decreased. The original or "mother" herd was established at Teller, on Seward peninsula (see map). Alaska conditions proved so favorable to tl« 1,280 Imported animals that the Increase has be«h extraordinary. Nobody seems to be able to llx i their numbers now. but Ito 1922 the estimates were between 200,000 and JJ0.OOO, with an estimate of 100,000 killed for food and clothing. Moreover the Alaskan reindeer is much larger than the reindeer of Norway. Lapp herders were brought from Norway to instruct the Eskimos; they were given a percentage of the Increase. For a long time the Eskimo and Laplanders were the only owners of reindeer. Gradually the Laplanders have sold their holdings' Now one-fourth or more of the reindeer are under white ownership. One company in Nome is said to own more than 25,000. It Is through this white ownership that a beginning has been made to putting the Industry on a commercial basis. Several . refrigerating plants have been established; Ship, ments of carcasses have been to the United States. The meat has been received with favor and has brought good prices. The reindeer herds of Alaska now number in excess of 100, widely distributed from Point Bar» row to the Aleutian islands. The map shows tha areas now occupied by reindeer; areas suitable for grazing and not yet occupied, and the main range reserve for caribou. The ownership by the federal government and various missions has practically terminated. There are more than 1,500 Eskimo owners, whose herds range in size from a few head to 1,000 ahlmais. The growth of the reindeer Industry for the twenty years between 1902 and 1921 shows an annual net Increase of about 27 per cent--S3 per cent gross increase, taking into consideration the slaughtered stock. The average fawn crop runs between 50 and 60 per cent; the average prolificacy of reindeer Is 70 per cent The fawns run about fifty-fifty as to sex. The sunnal loss In adults Is about 8.5 per cent and in fawns about 15 per cent Ownership In reindeer is commonly Indicated by ear-marking. Each owner has a different ear-mark and often each member of an Eskimo family has his Individual mark. Bartering and trading of deer among the natives is so common that often the ears are nearly cut away. Nevertheless, the facility with which an owner will pick out his deer is uncanny and there are surprisingly few disputes as to ownership. Branding has been in disfavor. It has to be very carefully done, as the reindeer has a thin and soft skin. In the co-operative systeni of herding favored by the bureau of education each herd will be under a'Single brand, in which the owner has a percentage holding based on the number of his does. The Alaska reindeer Is an Interesting animal. Both bucks and does have horns--and big ones, thereby differing from other members of the deer family. The head and legs are dark in color; the neck and shoulders are grayish white, with darker sides and hindquarters; the muzzle, mane and strips down the back of the hind legs are white There are also spotted and white reindeer. The white ones are inferior physically, but the Eaklmo breed them because they like spotted and white skins for clothing; moreover the white animals can be seen at a long distance In the summer and are a help in the herding. A well-grown a^ult stands about 13 hands high and Is about 7 feet , from nose to tip of tail. Reindeer flock together like sheep, bat graze d&AZZir&AHB&sxtru * cattle- *re more Intelligent than attie They are gentle, except that the bucks are vicious In the rutfing season. They are much e«s"y handled by men on foot than are e. They can easily be broken to harness and n be driven, ridden or used as pack animals, ey are very active for a short distance and dismUCh speed 88 an ordln»ry driving horse, with their broad, loosely connected hoofs they can easily travel where horses and cattle would mlra. The fawns come In the spring and are able to follow the doe at once. They shed their horns one year after birth. Reindeer shed their coats every summer and shed and grow horns every year. The horns often grow so fast that the animals show^ signs of pain. The adult does (two years of age or over) shed their horns a few days after the dropping of the fawns. Bucks two and three-quarters years of age and over drop their horns after the rutting season In the fall. Does continue to breed till about twelve years of age. The average life of a reindeer Is about fifteen years. Nearly full growth Is reached In the Jthlrd year; full maturity In four or five years. Of the bucks a certain number are reserved for breeding purposes; the rest are raised as steers to be slaughtered when about three years old. October and November are the best months for slaughtering; steers are then prime. Bucks do not make good meat; does are not killed. Reindeer store up their winter fat In two masses on the back, on either side of the backbone By the whites It Is often cut Into strips and used like bacon; the natives think it a tidbit. The meat is fine-grained and of good flavor. The liver Is large and much like that of calves in quality. The tongue and heart are of good quality. The dressed weight of a full-grown steer is 200 pounds (maximum). The dressed caribou of certain Alaskan districts will often weigh 300 poundscross- breeding and the grading of the reindeer herds «111 In time greatly increase average weight A deep layer of underground ice along the Alaskan coast offers natural cold-storage facilities. In many places--for example, on the Seward peninsula-- the soil is not more than a foot or two thick. The Ice Is free from Impurities and shafts have been sunk In It thirty feet deep. Thus meat can be kept Indefinitely and at a trifling cost at the place where the herd is slaughtered. Reindeer need no protection from the weather and can always find food In suitable grazing districts. In the winter they dig for gray lichens. In the summer the tundra furnishes grasses and sedges. Apparently they eat almost anything from mushrooms to duck eggs. They wlli steal half-dried salmon. They are crazy over salt JThe lasso or lariat used In Alaska differs radically from that used in the West A flexible cotton rope about one-fourth Inch In diameter Is preferred. The eye Is heavy and Is made from a piece of reindeer horn. The roper does not throw a single loop, cowboy fashion, but throws the whole rope so that it hits the horns and entangles them. Roping cannot be used to advantage while the horns are In the velvet as bleeding may result and Infection set In. In other countries milk from reindeer Is used In the making of butter and cheese. In Alaska little milking is done and milking strains have not been developed. The tanning of skins is poor and even the natives buy reindeer skins Imported from 8lberia. Modern slaughtering methods are Dot generally used; the native owner goes out and kills kls reindeer whenever he wants It, in season or flMt The skinning is easier than In the case of ORttle. No use is made of by-products. An Alaskan reindeer round-Up Is a picturesque affair. There are only a few modern corrals. Tha usual method employed is a crude brush enclosure on the open plain and the roping method Is In vogue. At a recent demonstration of a modern QOrral at the head of Kotzebne sound a roundly of 10,000 reindeer was staged. The deer were ppt through at the rate of 144 to the hour, practically without injury. Previous to 1920 the crude methods of the original herders prevailed. Then the biological survey eftablished a reindeer experiment station at Unalakleet. Every phase of tlie situation is being studied. Preliminary surveys Indicate that there Is available grazing sufficient to carry between 8,000.000 and 4,000,000 reindeer. The annual garplus from that number would yield a product worth more than all the minerals mined and na*. haps equal the fisheries. : - "Are we on the brink of a new era of dress?" is the question floating about wherever fall fashions are dls-' cussed. To be hovering upon such a brink is a delightful state of things for women, observes a fashion correspondent in the Kansas City Star. But lady, lady. If you fancy you are In a state of joyful expectancy, think of the state of mind such a prospect brings to all designers, fabric manufacturers, ready-to-wear concerns and all kindred Interests that grow rich (or poor) on Women's love of change In dress. Does tlie modern woman really want elaboration In dress or Is this Just a flurry--a normal reaction of the long reign of the stralghtllne frock and the boyish mode? Frankly, nobody knows,. The wisest ones In the world of dress, the designers and creators of fashions, retained the jumper and the modified straightline frock in fall opening. Playing safe, of course. If women do not accept the elaborate fashions they still have the simple frock to offer. One need not hesitate on the purchase of these simple frocks secure in the knowledge that they will 4>e worn In satin, in crepe, In chiffon, in velvet, In tweeds and In Heavy Fur Trimming U Feature of Coat of Lava Brown. Jerseys. A glance at the fall mode gives the Jumper its secure place and in all the bright greens, deep reds and ahades of brown. The princess of autumn 1825 Is a clever modification of the princess that was, It Is molded to the figure about the waistline, flares at the hem. the long sleeve often flares out below the elbow or flaunts a cuff that a cavalier might envy. In other words today's princess is a rebuilt model beautifully flared by godets, slim by means of fabric cut In many pieces almost as many as old-time gores, but oh, so different. The V neckline, or the newer modification, a V in the back and the round neckline In front are pretty Indeed. Bedecking the Neckline. The high neckline is maintained, the fur choker often turns the trick. The acarf is as versatile as ever whether in flowing style or reduced to a string-like arrangement that fails from shoulder, down the back or ties under the ear. These straight stand collars are finished on the inside with contrasting colored silks. In contrast to the princess there Is the period frock, a 'Specimen of such loveliness was in every opening. Full skirts In rich brocades, flowing velvets, lace and taffetas bouffant in line are Joined to the molded bodice. Generally speaking, these frocks have an appeal year after year. Like a velvet evening wrap they are always In the mode. With today's present variety in fash- Ions the period frock hardly has the paved path to popularity that it did when gowns were less elaborate. Insets of batiste and lace In the form of godets, long front pafcels are now a part of the mode. Lacy collars, frills and cuffs In lace batiste and organdie are seen In many colors. *•„ The length of the coat In tailored suits Is either three-quarters or hip length. Rather heavy diagonally ribbed silk in gray, trimmed In narrow bands of baby lamb, is lined in velvet to match; ribbed velours de lalne in bordeaux red Is one of the lovely materials for fall. In fact red In rich, deep tones Is one of the touches of brightness the autumn wardrobe will know. Women accepted red very gradually but they are just as slow Is letting go of this gorgeous color. The long belted jumper has a belt that fastens with silver belt buckle of the shirtwaist period. The coats are to have deep shawl collars. A scarf that winds about the throat and forms a throw is one of the notes of elegance. The cape Is prominent on coats, sometimes the cape forms the sleeve. The soft velours, trimmed dyed , kid, silver leather and gold leather are luxurious. Lavish fur bands* pockets of fur and braids In gold and self tones are much used. Black and rich autumn colors are shown. The tweed cdats, flaring from tha shoulder, have the raglan sleeve leopard skin collar. If you have a yard or a mile of fringe get It out, the yard can be used as a bertha on a satin frock and all of the mile that can be wound round your figure in spirals will make you a replica of fringe frocks from Paris. Whole capes are enveloped In fringe. Many of the evening dresses are frankly fuller, but of such supple silks that they seem slim. For these there are frequent and unusual color combinations, the dress reported by cable, made In fiat layer treatments in green, blue and silver, or In mauvy pink, with two rose panels and a blue om> hang lng loosely at the front. A fe&- are stralghtllne, such as one of poppy red, with long lines of ruffles draped to suggest flowers dripping down either side of the front and back. Mme. Rolande showed several afternoon and dinner dresses featuring moire In her Paris openings, although velvets, chiffon and crepe de chine also were shown. In evening dresses, moire is slso worth noting, because it Is a fabric comparatively little seen In the i Jorlty of alio wings. One model of pinkish mauve has the corsage bordered In gold. The skirt carries a flounce low in the front but brought higher at the sides and to the waistline in the back. Many of the dresses are trimmed with vertical bands which mark the bust a little and indicate the normal waistline, adding to the width at the hem. The chiffon frocks often have a yoke of fine lace of the exact shade of the dress. Others are trimmed with narrow flounces In various fashions, but always In points, which Mme. Rolande has made tha controlling motif in her trimmings. Always Noumlesa Rubber Street* Some of our scientists continue t«. he more speculative than the widest prophets. Prof. A. M. Low predicts future which wlirinclnde noiseless nib* ber streets, moving sidepatha at thf' rate of 20 miles an hour, one meal • day only, trousered woman, and **<•; mild oscillatory stimulant taken in a few moments" Instead of sleep. Doctor Low speaks of "our universal longing for the future," but who would long for the kind of future he foreshadows or threatens?--Westminster Gazette. Operate• on Swan A swan broke a wing during a storm at Belfast. A surgeon administered an anesthetic, amputated the wing, bound up the wing, and the bird made a good recovery. ;h * '. » iiv-Wi Well-Merited Success Honored politically and profession* ally. Dr. R. v. Pierce, whose picture appears here, made a success few have equalled His pure herbal r e m e d i e s w h l c b have stood th« test for fifty yeart are still among the "best sellers. Dr. Pierce's Go I den Medical Disooverj Is a blood medlcin* and stomach alter ative. It clears th« akin, beautifies It, Increases the bloo<j supply and the circulation, and pimple* and eruptions vanish quickly. Thli Discovery of Doctor Pierce's puts yoi in fine condition, with all the organa active. All dealers have it Send 10 cents for trial package etf tablets to Dr. Pierce, Buffalo, N. T. Much Velveteen It Used in Skirts Velveteen skirts are an Important factor. With the skirts, blouses of the same fabric, or a contrasting one trimmed in velveteen are shown, although In many Instances the sklrtB may be purchased separately. Colors vary only slightly, deep raspberry red, bottle green, royal blue and brown skirts of this type are shown. The blue which would be very bright In another fabric, assumes a darker tone In the pile material. A Bkirt of chiffon velvet with lame blouse Is pale rose velvet, with circular sides. The blouse has a gold cast, and introduces an array*of pastel shades, Including rose. It is made in the manner of the more tailored Jumpers, having long sleeves, and a collar which may be worn high. It is about hip length, being held close at the waistline with a sash of self material. Bands of rose velvet and gold braid serve as trimming. The tweed coats favor straight lines broken in the back by cape effects, which generally reach Just to the waist, although occasionally they fall below the hips. One model with a short cape which Just covered the sleeves was collared and cuffed in fox. dyed a cocoa brown to match the tweed. The tweed suits appeared In the regular mannish effects with single or double-breasted jackets reaching to the hips, and slender skirts. More novel types had knee-length coats in either straight or flared lines, fur collars and skirts widened by plaits or gores. The homespun coats were developed In wrap-around or ulster styles, with the flare from the shoulder predominating. An attractive example in dull gray-green with Irregular stripes of darker green bordering the hem and sleeves, had a fitted shoulder achieved by continuing the sleeves up Into the standing collar. These models were trimmed by seaming tucks and rows of self buttons. RL0TCHY SKIM ymL Ffephsbhcfc hasds.tC.fqwfcMr by Resinol Q PASTOR KOENIG'Si NERVINE FOR NERVOUS AILMENTS PRICK S1.SO /WHta far FREE BOOKLET! KOCMia MCMCINB CO. . *IU* ST. CMICAM, ILL. , 3® mm KEETDta WELL An Iff Tablet (• vegetable aperient) Ukaa at , night will halp keep ymm wd, fcp toning tad itr«ngth«alag ynt ONttoa mmd alimiaatioa. Gold Trimmings Touches of gilt as trimimngs on both millinery and gowns are much in evidence in autumn modes. Gold lace Is used, pipings of gold, flowers In the same finish and in silver, as well, all serve to brighten the costume. I VndJ •at a ufBOK IChipsoff -Hw Old Block Nt JUNIORS--UttI* Nte Una third the regular doss. Made of the BUM ingredients, then candy coated. For children and adult*. ISOLD BY YOUR DRUOQISTHI WHY SHOULD ANYONE SUFFfclt WITH INDIGESTION OR ANT STOMACH MISERY? Back Flare Not to Be Fullnes* Fashion Memory Feats Little Short of Marvelous Among the various feats of memory which have been recorded from time to thae, the achievement of a member of the stafT of the Prussian state library deserves a special niche, says London Answers. He has specialized In weather reports, and claims to re- Bicmber Just exactly what sort of weather we had on any day that can be mentioned between 1881 and the Present year. Name the day and he will tell you all about It--he will even give you the official thermometer and barometer readings. His claims have been tested by the Meteorological so<?fety of Berlin and, according to reports, that body has been quite unable to "catch him out" Memory, of course, is largely a matter of training and some marvelous demonstrations of the extent to which It can be cultivated have been , given from time to time. Datas. for Instance would pot a date--and the correct date--to any event you liked to name; while another cultivator of the same branch of knowledge, a stoker, memorized the whole of Haydn's". Dictionary of Dates. One of the pioneers of steeplechasing. Colonel Charratie, had also this amazing knack. He once memorized the day's Issue of a newspaper. advertisements included, for a wager. Aftef these feats, the sblllty en- : Joyed by Macaulay and Lord Randolph Churchill, ti after a singi thing. repeat a page of print reading seems a small Reclaiming Opium Victim* American Methodist mlssionarieH >t Delhi, Sumatra, are said to have effected remarkable cures of the opium habit amonf Chinese fishermen there. Treatment la administered Internally and extends over a period of two weeks. So far more than 24Q patients, most of them complete opium wreck* are clTimed to have been wholly rnrs^ While there Is every evidence the back flare has been generally accepted, many women still show a preference for frocks with fullness in the front. Designers have considered their tastes and introduced any number of new models with different Interpretations of this line. Godets and circular flounces still remain the most popular method of Incorporating extra fullness into a frock without disturbing the natural grace of the figure, but in the new models there are certain details which distinguish them from those of last season. In many instances the flounces or godets are scalloped of cut in points, Revealing a plaited underskirt. Fashioned of navy satin finished crepe, the underskirt Is of georgette in the same tone which is also used for a plaited gilet. Cross-stitch embroidery In pastel colors outlines the deep wedge-shaped neckline. A tiny upstanding collar is distinctly new and la in keeping with I which It Is said are being revived by several of the most important designers. Developed, in black satin combined with black georgette or In the new shade of wine red, called Black I'rlnce, one of the new colors introduced at a recent fashion show, a frock of this type would be equally attractive and smart. • Rather similar is another model which exploits a combination of blue crepe In the new Intense tone so much in vogue, with chiffon draperies Of the same color. V 79a wut to Ox op jnuar dyvpepCI* ! Nt of order atoaucli so tlMU tm «aa relish what you wltit not the least bit ot after distress, do what teas ad thousands of poopie ha.ve aire*4y doMk Getting rid of fu. bloating, beichtag; bM^lBeaa and that of near oatkm ten t such a hard matter as yea may think--You're been retting koM oi the wrong medicine--that's ail. But better late thu never--ask yov 4rucff!st for a bottle of Dara's MeatlM Papain--a real stomach medicine and a vary pleasant one. For acute tedtgeetloa j one or two doaaa te enough, but wImm | tha trouble Is chronic, two or Utree boti tlaa may be needed to put jrov tflsordand j itomuli In food b«althy condition | make life worth IWn, Making it start is tha main thi»| n i why not get on« bottle today wtth tha distinct understanding that U It fcelp yen tb« purchase prte* will tarnad. Glove Contraata TBte pull-on gauntlets which m women find so convenient have lost none of their popularity and have gained new distinction by the contrast of colors now employed. The suede gauntlets are embossed In bright colore and the white and chamois colored hand coverings are frequently stitched in black. White la oaed with termer V-t- • [.frt i • rtiiiiSiM BABIES LOVE M&VMOOirSHWP TV. lafaati' daMne'i Itfilttw Pleaaaiit to trire--pleasant to Guartciicd purely veg- •table and absolutely htnnlm. It quickly overcome* diarrhoea, flatulency and other